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Found 28 results

  1. Hi all. I have just imported a low mileage, one owner, 3 door 1.25 duratec in from Italy. Im just in the process of getting it ready for its first UK mot to get it registered, headlights are done. The speedo is is KPH only so I thought I’d go for a conversion plate to change the face rather than faff about changing it, however I’ve changed the faceplate and the revs and speed are all over the place and the aftermarket look of the product is naff so I’m going to use a UK spec 2nd hand unit that does mph and kph and retain the factory look, does anybody know someone other than the local ford dealer that can reprogramme the unit to the car and change the mileage to the same that’s on my European unit please? any advice would be helpful please cheers nick
  2. Hi all. I have just imported a low mileage, one owner, 3 door 1.25 duratec in from Italy. Im just in the process of getting it ready for its first UK mot to get it registered, headlights are done. The speedo is is KPH only so I thought I’d go for a conversion plate to change the face rather than faff about changing it, however I’ve changed the faceplate and the revs and speed are all over the place and the aftermarket look of the product is naff so I’m going to use a UK spec 2nd hand unit that does mph and kph and retain the factory look, does anybody know someone other than the local ford dealer that can reprogramme the unit to the car and change the mileage to the same that’s on my European unit please? any advice Welcome
  3. Hi. Changing my instrument cluster for a one with higher miles on. Anybody know a way for me to knock 15k miles off to match my current. Local ford dealer said they can’t help me. Thanks guys i have faith faith one of you can help me.
  4. Hello. Can anybody help, The speedometer and milage display doesn't wrk on my fiesta, the abs, engine management light is on and the brake system light is on. The mileage can be read until diving off. I have recently had a driver side front wheel bearing changed, and the abs sensor (same side) changed. Odb2 code comes up p0500, vehicle speed sensor A. Where/what is sensor A? Thanks....
  5. Hi Gang, Getting to be a bit of a long story, but here we go! Problem: Vehicle Speedo drops out when the engine gets warm. Garage: They thought it was the VSS, replaced the vss and it still keeps happening. Auto Electrician 1: Was convinced it's the speedo dial / cluster. Temporary replaced with a working unit and it kept on happening. Auto Electrician 2: This guy was much better than technician 1. Fully tested the loom back to the vss with no fault. Hooked it up at the vss to laptop and we drove til it cut out. The pulse started to deteriorate before finally cutting out with no reading. He asked if I had a clutch replaced which I thought was odd until i realised it was after a month or so with the new clutch it started to happen. He tested the VSS when the engine was still warm and when turning the end the dial still worked. So where next? I don't think I need auto electrician 3; am I better to find a gearbox / clutch specialist? Anyone know what spins the vss inside the gearbox? Anyone know why this would cause problems only when hot? I need to get this sorted but already hit just over £500 to date technically 'investigating'. Cheers
  6. Speedo Issue

    Hi all Long time lurker, recently signed up as i have an issue with the speedo on my 54 plate MK2 focus. When driving along, sometimes the speedo will seem like it is ticking down. If I come to a complete stop, then set off again it seems to work fine for a short while. Then slowly ticks down again. and if i reduce my speed then increase, it doesn't go back up unless i come to a complete stop. I have done the dash test gauge sweep, and it seems to work fine through that. Also, went through the menu to find the road speed (mph), and that seems to work fine. Am I right in thinking that this would be a fault with the instrument cluster?? Really not looking forward to having to shell out much more money on this, as I have recently had to have the clutch, water pump, thermostat, power steering and head gasket replaced. The garage that sold me, seem to want to hold no responsibility for any of the faults with that car either. So Small Claims court process has been started.
  7. Hey all. There seems to be loads of broken guides, questions with a few answers etc in regards to this, and seeing as I lurk a lot I thought it's about time I gave something back. Here's my guide to removing pre facelift clocks, and replacing them with facelifts! Basically, we're going from the green ones on the left, to the nice new facelift clocks on the right. If anybodies interested, I did this on a Focus 1.6 (100) petrol Sport, 2007 pfl. REQUIREMENTS: 2 Keys (I've read that people have done this with less than two but ForScan REFUSED to complete one of the final steps for me with one) Your vehicle MUST NOT be keyless ForScan Extended License (Click here for ForScan Download and here for extended license. Extended license is free for two months, but you need to sign up to forums) ELMConfig (Can be found here) Modified ELM327 Cable able to work on both speed CANBUS networks (Like this one here, although I've used a cheaper version and it works, but this one is 100%) AutoKeyProg account (Completely free, needed to get code to program keys. Their site is here, just be careful as you can only do a few codes a day) Facelift Clocks, but you NEED to buy ones with a lower mileage than your car. Otherwise, you may have issues, but probably just a higher mileage reading. A Torx Screwdriver (Not sure on size, but same screws as the ones behind stereo, glovebox etc) AND time, although if I did this again it'd take 15~ mins. Step 1: Go and install ELMConfig & ForScan. It's best to sort your extended license out with ForScan now so you can breeze through the whole thing. Once these are set up, we're ready to go. Get in your car and hook up the cable to the OBD port. Open up ELMconfig, click HEC on the left, and then Configuration on the top tabs. You need to save HEC Page 1 & 2 pages of settings. Also at this point note down your current mileage and keep it safe. Step 2: Now once you have your current settings and mileage, you can actually swap the clocks. Turn the ignition off, and remove them. They are quite simple to change, just pull the cover from behind the steering wheel off, and undo the two screws. You may need to ease them out from the top with a flathead screwdriver, and then do the swap. Step 3: Once the new clocks are in, go back to ELMconfig (close it and reopen), and go back to the HEC menu, then Configuration again. Write your old settings back to the new clocks. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT ON PAGE 1, AT THE BOTTOM RIGHT, YOU ENABLE HEC LEVEL 2/3, AND SELECT THE CLOCK OPTION. Failure to do that can mess the clocks. Also ENSURE that obvious settings, like engine, are set correctly. A quick side note that cost me an hour: The clocks I brought were from a keyless vehicle. I got stuck at programming keys for an hour because the clocks were still configured for keyless. To correct this, and it's a good idea to check this anyway,is to go to HEC Configuration Page 2, and make sure in the HEC Level 2/3 box that the bottom option is Standard PATS (Focus Facelift Level 2/3) Step 4: These are the most important steps, as this is where you programme your keys and sync the new cluster to the powertrain! Once you've done that the clocks are fully configured. They should work with ignition on, light up, let you go through menus, but the car won't start. This is fine. We need to now go on ForScan (Extended License IS REQUIRED NOW). I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU READ THE ORIGINAL TUTORIAL HERE AS IT GOES INTO MUCH MORE DETAIL! On my Focus, it said it wasn't sure if the key was programmed and to check the counter. It did successfully do both my keys, so that was all good. Once you've programmed two keys, you can sync the new cluster to the powertrain control module. Again, read ForScan's own documentation for this: This is ForScan's guide. You need to do "Module Initialisation" to sync the cluster Step 5: You're technically now done! At this point, the car should start and be happy. You can now follow James Simpson's brilliant guide on how to enable and disable cluster functions. Mine had washer fluid sensor, which I physically don't have, so had to turn that off, and also the annoying reverse alarm. Have a play about, as there is a hell of a lot you can enable with these clocks, especially if you still have the stock head unit in the car. I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU CORRECT YOUR MILEAGE AT THIS POINT. IT GOES WITHOUT SAYING, THAT APART FROM BEING MORALLY WRONG, GETTING CAUGHT SELLING THE CAR WITH MISLEADING MILEAGE IS A CRIMINAL OFFENCE, AND YOU'RE LIKELY TO GET IN TROUBLE IF YOUR MILEAGE HAS DROPPED SINCE YOUR LAST MOT. To do this, go back on ELMConfig, go to HEC, then Procedures. You can now change the mileage to your original. DO NOT MESS THIS UP AS YOU CAN ONLY GO UP! That's all guys :) Any feedback, extra info or corrections would be appreciated. I would personally HIGHLY recommend doing this as it looks a hell of a lot smarter. Also there is a facelift clock with a bigger display that can support sat nav and a better display quality, but these are really rare.
  8. Hey all. There seems to be loads of broken guides, questions with a few answers etc in regards to this, and seeing as I lurk a lot I thought it's about time I gave something back. Here's my guide to removing pre facelift clocks, and replacing them with facelifts! Basically, we're going from the green ones on the left, to the nice new facelift clocks on the right. If anybodies interested, I did this on a Focus 1.6 (100) petrol Sport, 2007 pfl. REQUIREMENTS: 2 Keys (I've read that people have done this with less than two but ForScan REFUSED to complete one of the final steps for me with one) Your vehicle MUST NOT be keyless ForScan Extended License (Click here for ForScan Download and here for extended license. Extended license is free for two months, but you need to sign up to forums) ELMConfig (Can be found here) Modified ELM327 Cable able to work on both speed CANBUS networks (Like this one here, although I've used a cheaper version and it works, but this one is 100%) AutoKeyProg account (Completely free, needed to get code to program keys. Their site is here, just be careful as you can only do a few codes a day) Facelift Clocks, but you NEED to buy ones with a lower mileage than your car. Otherwise, you may have issues, but probably just a higher mileage reading. A Torx Screwdriver (Not sure on size, but same screws as the ones behind stereo, glovebox etc) AND time, although if I did this again it'd take 15~ mins. Step 1: Go and install ELMConfig & ForScan. It's best to sort your extended license out with ForScan now so you can breeze through the whole thing. Once these are set up, we're ready to go. Get in your car and hook up the cable to the OBD port. Open up ELMconfig, click HEC on the left, and then Configuration on the top tabs. You need to save HEC Page 1 & 2 pages of settings. Also at this point note down your current mileage and keep it safe. Step 2: Now once you have your current settings and mileage, you can actually swap the clocks. Turn the ignition off, and remove them. They are quite simple to change, just pull the cover from behind the steering wheel off, and undo the two screws. You may need to ease them out from the top with a flathead screwdriver, and then do the swap. Step 3: Once the new clocks are in, go back to ELMconfig (close it and reopen), and go back to the HEC menu, then Configuration again. Write your old settings back to the new clocks. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT ON PAGE 1, AT THE BOTTOM RIGHT, YOU ENABLE HEC LEVEL 2/3, AND SELECT THE CLOCK OPTION. Failure to do that can mess the clocks. Also ENSURE that obvious settings, like engine, are set correctly. A quick side note that cost me an hour: The clocks I brought were from a keyless vehicle. I got stuck at programming keys for an hour because the clocks were still configured for keyless. To correct this, and it's a good idea to check this anyway,is to go to HEC Configuration Page 2, and make sure in the HEC Level 2/3 box that the bottom option is Standard PATS (Focus Facelift Level 2/3) Step 4: These are the most important steps, as this is where you programme your keys and sync the new cluster to the powertrain! Once you've done that the clocks are fully configured. They should work with ignition on, light up, let you go through menus, but the car won't start. This is fine. We need to now go on ForScan (Extended License IS REQUIRED NOW). I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU READ THE ORIGINAL TUTORIAL HERE AS IT GOES INTO MUCH MORE DETAIL! On my Focus, it said it wasn't sure if the key was programmed and to check the counter. It did successfully do both my keys, so that was all good. Once you've programmed two keys, you can sync the new cluster to the powertrain control module. Again, read ForScan's own documentation for this: This is ForScan's guide. You need to do "Module Initialisation" to sync the cluster Step 5: You're technically now done! At this point, the car should start and be happy. You can now follow James Simpson's brilliant guide on how to enable and disable cluster functions. Mine had washer fluid sensor, which I physically don't have, so had to turn that off, and also the annoying reverse alarm. Have a play about, as there is a hell of a lot you can enable with these clocks, especially if you still have the stock head unit in the car. I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU CORRECT YOUR MILEAGE AT THIS POINT. IT GOES WITHOUT SAYING, THAT APART FROM BEING MORALLY WRONG, GETTING CAUGHT SELLING THE CAR WITH MISLEADING MILEAGE IS A CRIMINAL OFFENCE, AND YOU'RE LIKELY TO GET IN TROUBLE IF YOUR MILEAGE HAS DROPPED SINCE YOUR LAST MOT. To do this, go back on ELMConfig, go to HEC, then Procedures. You can now change the mileage to your original. DO NOT MESS THIS UP AS YOU CAN ONLY GO UP! That's all guys :) Any feedback, extra info or corrections would be appreciated. I would personally HIGHLY recommend doing this as it looks a hell of a lot smarter. Also there is a facelift clock with a bigger display that can support sat nav and a better display quality, but these are really rare.
  9. I have a 2006 Ka, just had a reconditioned gearbox put in, all new brakes, battery, new master cylinder. After weeks and weeks in the garage it came back with the fuel gauge and speedo not working. I dread taking it back to the garage as they take weeks to do anything. I noticed one of the fuses next to the battery is missing but have no idea what this does. Can anyone offer any advice, car has been off the road for months in and out of garage, getting fed up with it.
  10. looking at making some modifications to my Fiesta zetec s 125 - 2014 however i have the 3 year ext warranty when i purchased the car from the dealer and i dont want to void the warranty... I would love to make the exhaust visible by changing it alltogether or using an exhaust tip/clip type thing as this shouldnt void the warranty but the stock exhaust makes this almost impossible to achive anyway..?? I would also like to swap out the speedo and rev counter etc as i dont find them that great and was wandering if anybody else had done anything simmilar??
  11. Hi, Recently my MK1 Focus' speedo has started to die and return to life during a drive, I did post before about this but the entire dash used to die (fixed with WD40 2 years ago - good as new since). All other dials etc work, it's just the speedo going in and out. I've just drove home in test mode and the digital speedo dies when the needle does. I've read this helps confirm it's a VVS issue. The two DTC codes I have are 123 and 041. Finally, the ABS light sometimes comes on (if the needle doesn't return after a few minutes and the milage lines out ---- ---). Does this all look like a VVS as cluster works? Thanks!
  12. Hi everyone looking for some help, i have diagnosed a problem to the rear of my instrument cluster,(ford focus 2008 zetec 1,8). The car had been playing up with all sorts of odd things being said on the dash, so i took the the option of giving the instrument circuit board a clean to see if this fixed it(it did not) but what i did find was the fault! which is the grey wire block connector on the back of the cluster does not engage properly when the lock is on causing the dash to think things are wrong with the car that are not, i found if i squeeze the grey block into the cluster the all faults go away and dash is fine,just wondered if anyone has experienced this and knew the best way to fix it, its so annoying knowing the fault but not knowing what to do to fix it, thank for any help
  13. Engine cut out

    1.8 ford focus mp3 starts and drives. after a few miles Speedo stops working and if you don't keep engine going it cuts out but will start again straight away and once it has done this once or maybe twice it's OK until engine has gone cold iv had crank case/speed sensor replaced does anyone have any other ideas
  14. My speedo was reading 120mph rev counter at 2000rpm i was sat behind a lorry doing approximately 52mph actual is there a common fault with my focus to cause this and is it an expensive fix plz , any info is appreciated , james
  15. Hello. I'm a new member (just introduced myself) with a Fiesta Finesse (2002, 1.3 litre). The speedo keeps failing and then starting again with no apparent reason. Being an intermittent fault it is not worth going near a repair workshop because it will work perfectly while there and then fail as soon as I go away home! I am told that it is not the vehicle speed sensor because, in that event, the mileometer would not work either and mine keeps working, even when the speedo doesn't work. What do you think? New speedo head needed?
  16. Hi All, First post here, unfortunately in need of advice. The speedo on my 2004 MK1 Focus stops working intermittently (stays at 0). This happens approximately every other journey. The odometer also stops recording miles when the speedo stops. This is accompanied by it occasionally stalling when I pull up to a stop as the engine falls back to idle. I have not noticed a lack of power as other people have but this could just be as I am gently driving around town. The same applies for the drop in radio level. I have only noticed the speedo stopping working when I am moving off from stationery (it doesn't seem to stop whilst it is showing a speed). I have only done short journeys since this has started happening (less than 10 mins/3 miles) and it has yet to start working again. When I restart the car it resumes working. Having read other posts here and on other forums I was relieved that it appeared to be the VSS. I got this changed but the same symptoms are occuring. All the other dials are working OK throughout. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? I think its unlikely the new VSS is faulty. Incidently it was replaced by a previous owner in 2009. Thanks in advance... Doug
  17. Xreg Focus .. Engine Dying

    Hi folks im a newbie here. I have recently bought a Xreg Focus 1.8 and am having a few issues. The main one is that occasionaly I will get in car to go somewhere and the Speedo stops working if i keep driving sometimes the mileometer will then go to dashes and if i slow down the car just dies... all lights on dash come on. Help!!! Rod
  18. Hi i have 2 problems with my sport ka. Just had clutch, master slave replaced and when he put it back together the speedo and odomoteter is no longer working. I would send it back to be sorted but took days to get round to replacing clutch and was generally inconvenient. If anyone could shed any light on what the fault could be/ how to sort it would be greatly appreciated. The second problem is driving home yesterday the engine warning light came on down the dual carriageway. Done the self diagnostic and code dt 412 came up. Searched through google and didn't really help much. Is there anything i should be looking out for to see cause of the light coming on/ solve it? Don't really want to be taking it to a garage again if i can help it after just sorting the clutch out and being without a car for several days! Thanks in advance
  19. Dial Swap

    I got a escort gti and my dials have gone. I can easily replace with original but was wondering how easy it would be to fit different dials from a different brand I.e Lexus 200.
  20. Hello everyone! I have just purchased a 2003 (53) Mondeo tdci as my work-and-back commuter and it's amazing. Love it. But. It has the wrong instrument cluster in it. I know this as the rev counter goes to 6 and as such I am assuming I have no associated warning lights for the diesel engine. What I am hunting is the correct parts number for the clocks so I can hunt one down on ebay. I don't really care about the milage as I plan on keeping this car forever (until it goes to the great heap in the sky) So far I have found this but there seem to be so many variations!! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-MONDEO-MK3-DIESEL-TDCI-SPEEDO-CLOCKS-SPEEDOMETER-WITH-TRIP-3S7F-10849-KC/281152936906?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D867435285378211997%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D390631474962%26 Any help would be greatly appreciated. Kind Regards Mark
  21. Hello all. First, I'll start by introducing myself. My name is Alex, I'm 19 and living in Essex. I am the owner of a 2001 Ford Mondeo 1.8LX. I have a question which is regarding my instrument cluster. The bulb on the left that displays the temperature appears to have blown. For a while I've been thinking about changing the cluster and I was wondering if a cluster from an ST220 (White dials and 170mph speedo) would fit in this car as I have always preferred the look and what better time to do so when the bulb has blown aye? It will really irritate me having to look at that hahaha! Will the new speedo simply "plug and play"? Will my odometer reading be retained or will I have to programme the new one? Many Thanks, Alex.
  22. Speedo & ECU - My Story Jan 2013 - Bought: Ford Focus - 1.4L - Mk. 1 - 2001 - 110k miles. Right from purchase the speedo would occasionally cut out. When cut out this effected the ECU. When speedo cut out car would stutter with its fuel injection because ECU is confused. When speedo comes back to life, car is fine again until speedo cuts out next time. Feb 2013 - This speedo starts to cut out every journey + the stuttering. The fuel injection stuttering starts happening even when speedo hasn't cut out. At the same time the engine begins over revving itself when car is stationary. At the same time the engine struggles to accept fuel when putting foot down in gears 1, 2 & 3. I research the issue, bought and fit a new speed sensor: bit.ly/1125vvW Speedo ceases to cut out, happy days. However the fuel injection stuttering/over revving/ engine struggling to accept fuel remains. Perhaps I left problem for too long: confused ECU has damaged something else? Very common Ford problem. Does anyone know of a solution to the problem?
  23. Hi I have recently acquired a 2001 ford focus 1.8ltr and have found that as I'm driving along the speedo just drops down to 0mph? Everything else on the dashboard works fine but I lose power slightly as I'm driving along there aren't any error messages showing up when I have it plugged in so I don't know what is causing it. Any ideas?
  24. hi all im new to this got a 2004 diesel fusion battery charging at 18v and lots of lights come on and off on dash including abs airbag engine check door open and speedo fuel gauge and rev counter stop working
  25. Hi there everyone! this is my first post, so I'm sorry if this is in the wrong place! I have a fiesta mk4, 1998 with 95000 miles on! it is going to be my first car and i have done quite alot to it, and what I couldn't do myself it has had done! I want to take pride in so of course want to show off the miles, when it gets to 100k it will start again from zero so what I was looking to do is put in clocks from a mk5, how easy would this be to do? I've included pics of my current clocks and also the clocks i want to put in! Thanks in advance for any help! if you require any more information please let me know! Thank you :D