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Found 44 results

  1. HI All I tried to look on the forum for the signs and symptoms of the illness of my Ford but no real joy. My mondeo mk4 2008 2.0tdci has some starting problems, there are days where it start without problems at all, like a new car, but from time to time after few starts there is a dodgy one, it cranks up longer than usual and literally when the engine starts it cough's once. It seems to be on the right hand side of the engine bay ( when looking from the drivers position ) This is going on for couple of weeks now and started after stalling the engine in reverse. After stalling it didn't want to start at all, turning the key and not even single crank. Last Saturday was same situation, the car was driving lovely all day long, and suddenly it decided it will not start. I have checked all fuses in engine compartment ( visually and with the meter) disconnected the battery few times and nothing, so was just about to call RAC and tried one more time, hey ho, it started cranking and after 5 seconds of cranking it, the motor decided to start. Reading up on the forum stating it's the starter motor, but if it was going bad i presume it wouldn't have good days. Also there is EML light showing up on the dash board when ignition on but goes off when engine runs, again, it's not ever time, just some times it decides,, hey i will shine. I tried to hook up the odbII scanner as i have one and there is no problems with it at all. The idle is 799-802 rpm - really steady and i am getting bit bored with the issue now. I hope somebody here will be kind enough to assist me with the problem and hopefully can sort it without going to the garage.
  2. Hi there, I'm new to this sort of thing but had no option to come here for some advice! My car is a 2008 Focus Mk2.5 1.6 Zetec (petrol) (67,000 miles) and for the past few months it's had terrible starting issues that aren't exactly consistent. I turn on the ignition and go to start and it will turn over fine with a few coughs (trying to fire) and averagely starting after about 5/6 starts. (As I said it's not consistent as this morning it started 2nd try). Sometimes I will have a message pop up whilst I'm trying to start which is either; 'ESP off', 'Aux Heater 0%'. Also, when eventually started, (I'm not sure of this is connected to the situation) it splutters slightly for maybe like 1/4 mile down the road, with slight loss of power. In the afternoon it starts up first time (usually) so it's normally first thing in the morning. Hopefully one of you guys can point me in the right direction, thanks in advance! (Edit) The truth is I probably created an account many years ago and completely forgot! 😂
  3. Hi guys, I posted on here a few months back about my problems with my Focus 1.6 tdci estate (110hp). I was having intermittent drops of turbo boost which would occur randomly and usually reset with turning the ignition off then back on again. Well still not fathomed that one yet, but I have since had to change my injector seals due to one particularly bad one on no.3. So a few weeks ago I did it all, and blanked up my egr valve. Had a bad leak from the HP lines so had to nip them all up. It drove fine for a few weeks but seemed down on power and still the same lack of turbo boost almost all the time. Then it threw up a few faults. Egr blocked/high + low circuit codes. Turbo boost low. So I removed the blanking plate from the egr and had the fault codes removed. Got some turbo boost back again with the same issue as before. After a week or so I noticed the familiar smell of exhaust and that little "chirping" sound from the engine bay; the injector seals again! This time on no.1 and no.3. So off it all came again. As it was off the car I cleaned out the egr valve and it was still freely moving. This time I tried as hard as possible to clean the seats and have put it all back together. The plot now thickens. When I tried to start the car it just turned and turned and turned. Not even an attempt to cough into life. The last 2 times I've had the injectors or HP lines off it has always turned, splattered then eventually self-bled and started. Nothing. Tried bleeding the fuel through the filter with a hand pump. Still nothing. Tried a new egr valve as I heard a stuck valve can prevent proper starting. Nothing. Brilliant. I'm absolutely stumped. It seems to be a fuelling issue, but I can hear the fuel going through the pipes at the back of the bay when I used the hand pump. I'm totally wracking my brains but I'm not very in the know with common rail diesels tbh. Can anybody help me out? And well done for reading this far :-D Marc
  4. Starting Problems

    Hey all, I've been having some issues recently where my Focus 1.6 Sport Zetec is having issues with starting and generally after driving it a short distance, stopping, and then starting again. It seems to turn over fine and eventually gets to the point where it does start albeit at very low revs and sounding like it's going to conk out. A press of the accelerator gets it going and from then it's fine. I can even get the car close to stalling deliberately and it doesn't just conk out. Spark plugs, coil pack and leads were all replaced 6 months ago and had an oil change 3 months ago. Does anyone have any ideas where to start? Cheers
  5. A series of worsening events

    Hi guys, I posted on here a few months back about my problems with my Focus 1.6 tdci estate (110hp). I was having intermittent drops of turbo boost which would occur randomly and usually reset with turning the ignition off then back on again. Well still not fathomed that one yet, but I have since had to change my injector seals due to one particularly bad one on no.3. So a few weeks ago I did it all, and blanked up my egr valve. Had a bad leak from the HP lines so had to nip them all up. It drove fine for a few weeks but seemed down on power and still the same lack of turbo boost almost all the time. Then it threw up a few faults. Egr blocked/high + low circuit codes. Turbo boost low. So I removed the blanking plate from the egr and had the fault codes removed. Got some turbo boost back again with the same issue as before. After a week or so I noticed the familiar smell of exhaust and that little "chirping" sound from the engine bay; the injector seals again! This time on no.1 and no.3. So off it all came again. As it was off the car I cleaned out the egr valve and it was still freely moving. This time I tried as hard as possible to clean the seats and have put it all back together. The plot now thickens. When I tried to start the car it just turned and turned and turned. Not even an attempt to cough into life. The last 2 times I've had the injectors or HP lines off it has always turned, splattered then eventually self-bled and started. Nothing. Tried bleeding the fuel through the filter with a hand pump. Still nothing. Tried a new egr valve as I heard a stuck valve can prevent proper starting. Nothing. Brilliant. I'm absolutely stumped. It seems to be a fuelling issue, but I can hear the fuel going through the pipes at the back of the bay when I used the hand pump. I'm totally wracking my brains but I'm not very in the know with common rail diesels tbh. Can anybody help me out? And well done for reading this far :-D Marc
  6. Dear all,Hello I'm after some help if possible. I have a MK1 2004 C max 1.6 petrol and I've been having intermittent problems with starting. It seems to happen more when I've used it on several short journeys into town during the day. It starts fine and then after a few stop and starts it won't fire and takes a good couple of minutes to get going. No real smell of petrol present. So far I've serviced the car, changed plugs, change coil pack and leads for a used tested part, changed T Map sensor, cleaned throttle body and cleared the PCM. It went okay for around a week but problem started again. I've used Forscan to identify the problem and the only fault code is U9100-20I've read this may be a communication problem caused by the instrument cluster / dash but I can't see how this would effect the car starting. Any help would really be appreciated. Many thanks.
  7. Hawksey 0 Budding Enthusiast 2 posts Posted 2 hours ago · Hi all, im after some advice if possible. I have an old Focus C Max 1.6 petrol and over the last few weeks it's developed a starting problem. This seems to be worse when the car is hotter after runs around town when I go to start the engine again. So far I've done the following which hasn't really solved the problem. 1) plugged in OBD reader which shows no fault codes 2) changed spark plugs 3) taken throttle body off and given a clean. 4) just this morning fitted a replacement T Map sensor in the inlet manifold, disconnected the negative and reset the ecu memory by running a test wire from disconnected negative terminal to the positive. Left like this for 30 mins. Then plugged back in and went through the relearn process. Starting problem is still there. Once started it seems to run fine although there is sometimes a very slight hesitation in response from the throttle when changing gears. What should I do next. The only things I can think off is the built in throttle position sensor on the side of the throttle body is fauty so I could replace the unit with another used part. Replace the coil pack and leads. Any suggestions on what I can do? I know ford can plug it in and test all the sensors but they charge a fair bit for this and I don't want to waste money on this if possible. Many thanks in adavance. Hawksey Quote Edit
  8. Hi all, im after some advice if possible. I have an old Focus C Max 1.6 petrol and over the last few weeks it's developed a starting problem. This seems to be worse when the car is hotter after runs around town when I go to start the engine again. So far I've done the following which hasn't really solved the problem. 1) plugged in OBD reader which shows no fault codes 2) changed spark plugs 3) taken throttle body off and given a clean. 4) just this morning fitted a replacement T Map sensor in the inlet manifold, disconnected the negative and reset the ecu memory by running a test wire from disconnected negative terminal to the positive. Left like this for 30 mins. Then plugged back in and went through the relearn process. Starting problem is still there. Once started it seems to run fine although there is sometimes a very slight hesitation in response from the throttle when changing gears. What should I do next. The only things I can think off is the built in throttle position sensor on the side of the throttle body is fauty so I could replace the unit with another used part. Replace the coil pack and leads. Any suggestions on what I can do? I know ford can plug it in and test all the sensors but they charge a fair bit for this and I don't want to waste money on this if possible. Many thanks in adavance. Hawksey
  9. Info on the problem. - 2008 Ford Focus 1.6 Style - Auto - 30,000 Miles Short version of what’s wrong with the car and important notes: - Mostly heat related starting problem - The car drives perfectly - There is no injector pulse when fault is occurring, the most important info here is wiggling the wiring harness WILL get the car to start when the car is NOT hot, however when the engine has warmed to normal operating temp wiggling wires will not have any affect which I’m guessing is due to thermal expansion. - ECU has been swapped out with another new one and problem persisted. - Disconnecting the ECT sensor will get the car to start almost 99% reliably. - ECT sensor has been replaced. - Crank sensor has been replaced. - No fault codes ever registered. I have been trying to trace the problem through the wiring harness but it’s proven to be too difficult. The current process I’m using to find the problem is to investigate all sensors and their circuits that have anything to do with fuel injection, the only problem is that I do not have a large knowledge base when it comes to cars. I am wondering if you guys can help me and please be so kind to tell me what sensors you know to affect fuel injection and if you’ve ever heard of such a problem before or know of anything that could help. I have a scanning tool and have been inspecting how certain sensors work and everything seems to be fine (voltages .etc) to my knowledge which again isn’t vast. I have had a friend bridge the whole ECT sensor circuit to eliminate it and sure enough the problem is not regarding the ECT circuit. I’m getting close to having to give up a perfectly good car all because of some stupid wiring problem. Thank you for any help, it is much appreciated.
  10. Hi all. New to the forum, but been a member for just over a year. i have a 2004 Ford transit RWD 2004 2.4l. it cold starts just about, but will always start(even if turning over is a fight). and once the vans running its perfect. however once you stop and turn the engine off, even if its for a few minutes, or even straight away now i think about it, it wont restart, it just keeps turning. The only temp fix i have found for this is to squirt (a very minute amount of) easy start, after which it starts just right and then carries on driving perfectly! any ideas on what it might be. All help would be appreciated. kind regards Kai
  11. Hi guys I've been having a bit of trouble for a while now with starting. It's really intermittent, although it has become progressively more frequent. It will happily crank over and sounds as if it's about to start then fails. This can repeat quite a few times (10+ in the worst cases) until it starts. If it's taken a few goes to get it running then you will get some white smoke from the exhaust - this is the unburnt fuel, so it is definitely injecting fuel even though it won't start... As I said this has been going on for a while, maybe 6 months now. Initially it was a case that the problem may happen a couple of times a month and it would always start on the second attempt. More recently it's happening much more frequently, and regularly requires quite a few attempts before it will start. I've had in on the diagnosis machine (I'm quite lucky and have free access to one). No error codes, nothing, nada. Even had the diagnosis machine on it during starting while it was having the issue and everything is as it should be (i.e fuel pressure is good, all sensors are a go). The diagnostics also confirmed that the engine is perfectly balanced when running, no misfires or anything like that. There is not a single issue while the car is running, it's purely a starting issue. Fuel economy is as good as ever, runs perfectly and the speedo rev counter are accurate. I've gone ahead and replaced both the camshaft and crankshaft sensors now but this hasn't helped at all and it's still happening. I'm confident it's nothing to do with the glow plugs (it started fine mostly during the winter) and the issue happens both during hot and cold. As in, the issue is so intermittent that it can occur after a two hour cruise on the motorway when you stop at a service station, or in the morning. It's seems unrelated to hot or cold ambient or engine temperatures and how long you've left it sitting does make a difference either. Wet or dry doesn't make a difference either. I'm all out of ideas and can't think what else could even begin to cause the issue. It appears to be electrical, but what else is involved in the starting process that could affect it? Any ideas / thoughts / experience of the same issue are all welcome! Just to be clear it's a 57 plate 2.0 TDCi Focus with around 70k on the clock. Thanks Rob
  12. Starting Issues

    I have a 2005 fiesta ghia 1.6 and I've had some trouble recently I hope someone could help with. Basically it has some trouble starting, i'd say 50% of the time, whereby I put the key in and turn it. Everything will seem normal, the car will start and then 1 of couple of things happen: 1) it will just die straight away and stall 2) it will start and idle a bit rough. pressing the accelerator either does not respond at all or pressing it makes the revs drop. if you hold the accelerator slightly, it will stall the engine 3) it could start up fine no problem When the engine has started, there is no problems at all when driving. No flashing lights, no strange things with the dials, no dropping of revs. It's absolutely fine. Has anyone had this problem and could they share some light on what the issue is? Thanks
  13. Hello all, i'm having a little bit of trouble with my mk3 mondeo 2.0 tdci. First of all, it came up with the usual P0251 code which then I have replaced the injectors that made it run better. It then got bad again so I attempted to change the solenoid valve on the injection pump. Ever since i did that the car would not want to start for some unknown reason but there appears to be fuel making its way to the injectors as I cracked them open and plenty of fuel was escaping. The codes I have been given are known as P2291 Injector pressure too low - Engine cranking and P2623 injector control pressure regulator open circuit. Please could anyone help me as im stunned from what this car throws up when one thing goes wrong. Many thanks
  14. Hi all, I have a 2009 fusion 1.6 Zetec tdci which after a short trip to the shops (less than a mile) parked up at home but noticed that the radiator fan was still running, this went on for 30 mins or so until I decided to unplug it from its loom. Came back a few minutes later re-attached the fan which started spinning straight away and tried to start her up, she cranked over a couple of times slowly as if the battery was drained but failed to start. Left it again for a few minutes and tried again, this time turned the ignition on, all lights showing normal but she wouldn't turn over, turned the key again and got the same, dash lights come on no clicking sound as there normally is. just nothing. Battery is showing as having 12 volts, all fuses behind the glove compartment checked and they were fine, connected it up to a charger/jumper unit and nothing. Any ideas? Thanks in advance
  15. Hi all, My 59 plate 1.6 petrol (auto) has difficulty starting every once in a while. It ticks, but does not crank. When this happens, you have to retry & turn the key twice or three times. Any ideas on what it could be? Battery? Starter motor? Alternator? I'm tempted to replace the battery (still on original battery), but don't want to waste £££ if it's not the cause. Cheers
  16. Have bought a second hand smax which will intermittently take several times to start. It will crank over but not take. Its as if there is an issue with fuel or oxygen feed at start up. Once started it works perfectly. Garage found fault relating to the MAP sensor which has been replaced but not sorted the issue. No fault codes before or since. Does anyone have an idea what might be causing the issue? Is this a common issue with smax cars with a simple solution. Considering the car runs well once started I can't believe that its a major fault. Something getting stuck? Here is a video of the issue: https://youtu.be/eHrI5fhlNRI Thanks
  17. Focus Starting issue

    Hi All and good evening I have a 2007 Focus 1.8 TDCI and it has developed a couple of issue's that I just can't seem to find and fix. Had the car since 2010 and was brought for going up and down the motorway for work, after about 1 year I was moved to a new office and stop using the car for long distances just backwards and forwards to the train station. Not very good with Diesel engines as I have only worked on petrol so not sure where to go next. Starting issue. First had the issue about 2 years ago, can't remember if it was cold or not but think it was around February/March time. Then nothing for about 20 months, just as winter was setting in I started having the starting issue again. I try and explain the problem as best as I can. Get into the car turn the ignition on to position 2 and wait for the glow plug light to go out. Turn key to position 3 and the car goes to start, engine sounds like it is going to fire into life so turn key back to position 2 and then the engine dies. Repeat trying to start the car for up-to 15 minutes before the car finally starts. While trying to start the car there will be smoke from the exhaust (I think it is either white or grey but hard to tell as most of the time the problem has happened its been dark), a lot of smoke and it has a burning sort of smell to it. While trying to start the car the rev counter shows the engine is up around 800 rpm and then dies (almost like it is going to continue running but does not) and some times it will only go up-to around 400-600rpm and then die. Nothing seems to help, put foot on the accelerator nothing, hold key 1-2seconds long in position 3 still does not help. Check fault codes nothing, checked the pressure on the fuel rail and before starting it says 100 Kpa and then when trying to start this jumps up to around 180-190 Kpa. Checked the Mass Air Flow and it seems to detect air flow. Read on some other forums and post that the anti-shudder valve can stick closed and cause this same issue. So I had the issue yesterday, after about 10 minutes of trying to start the car I thought I might check to see if I could see the valve and push it open. So I removed the hose that comes up from the inter-cooler to the left had side of the inlet manifold (If you are standing in front of the car), or at least I am guessing this is the inlet manifold as I can't find a good diagram of the 1.8 TDCI engine, but I could not see any valve just a lot of smoke. I no this was not wise but with the hose removed I tried to start the car and after the second attempt the car started. I let it run for about 1 minutes and then turned it off reconnected the hose and then started the car again and car started. Now I might have the issue again in the next couple of days or I might not have the issue for a couple of weeks or months. Seen on some forums people suggest running an Air cleaner through the car from the Air Filter. Does anyone know if this might help? Thanks for any advice Richard
  18. Hello, I have an issue with my 2008 Focus 2.0 TDCI.Intermittently it will start up for 1 second and then die, as though its being turned off. Try again and it starts just fine. Just wondering if anyone has seen this problem before and knows the solution ? Here is a link to a video of it having the issue.https://www.youtube....eature=youtu.beThanks
  19. Hi all, Just joined this forum on behalf of my dad who is having a number of issues which we can not seem to solve, so any help here is much appreciated! Dad owns a 2011 Mondeo Titanium X Sport 2.0 Eco Boost Auto with 14k miles on the clock, owned it for about 2 years now. A couple of months ago the car started to play up where the key fob would unlock the car but the wing mirrors wouldn't open out, the push to start button would not start the car but the instrument display would show the Ford logo. AA man came round, disconnected the battery for about 10 mins then the car was ok and started up. Couple of days later same thing happened so dad did what the AA man did and was ok, but then the car wouldn't turn off! It is an Auto so couldn't stall it. Took it to Fords while running and the guys come out and agreed that it wouldn't stop. Eventually the car did turn off after pressing the on/off start button a few times. Left the car with Fords to investigate and they said that there was nothing wrong with it after doing the Vagcom/diagnostic checks etc. Paid about £300 for this so far. They gave the car back to us and it was ok for a day or so until the same thing happened. Ford then flashed the internal computer and updated all the firmware etc and the car was ok. Today (about 2/3 months later) dad went to start his car and nothing, the key fob wouldn't open the car and even using the internal key in the fob would not open the doors! Ford have said they have never seen this before and don't know what to suggest, so we have a car we are unable to get into. Dad has tried both key fobs and tried every possible thing we can think of. Has anyone on the forum experienced this before or have any ideas as to what it could be!? Any help/suggestions are welcome. Thanks,
  20. Hi Everyone, Hope somebody can come up with a possible solution to this fault. I have a 2006 2.0L TDCi Diesel Hatch (6 speed manual). The Fault Sometimes when I turn the key to start the car I get no response at all (just silence). I wait for the self checks to complete and the lights to go out and then attempt to start, but nothing happens not even the dials sweep round or the lights dim, there is no click as if it was trying to turn the starter motor. sometimes I can do this 4 or 5 times before it starts. This only happens intermittently, most times it starts first time. The battery is fully charged and the terminals are clean and tightly secured so no problem from that. It's as if a relay is not pulling in (but which one), or could it be an earth fault ? It doesn't matter whether the engine is hot or cold or what the weather is like. Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated as it's really starting to annoy me
  21. Hi, I have problem with starting my S-Max 1.8 TDCI 125BHP,07. It occurs randomly, I didn´t notice any relation to engine or outside temperature, nor length of stay. When I try to start, engine is only turning over, but won´t fire up. "Engine malfunction" message appears on display. But I always somehow manage to start engine eventually.Any advice guys? This is DTC´s reading: ===PCM DTC P0A09:00-24=== Code: P0A09 - DC/DC Converter Fault Circuit Low ===PCM DTC P0562:00-28=== Code: P0562 - System Voltage Low ===PCM DTC P0341:29-68=== Code: P0341 - CMP Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 or single sensor) ===PCM DTC P0122:00-68=== Code: P0122 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input ===PCM DTC P0113:00-28=== Code: P0113 - IAT Sensor 1 Circuit High Input ===OBDII DTC P0A94-P=== Code: P0A94 - DC/DC Converter Performance ==PDM DTC U2012:08-2E=== ==DDM DTC U2012:08-2E=== Thanks for Help. Mike
  22. Hello everyone, I have a 2003 Ka with Duratec engine 1.3i For the last few days now the first start of the day is almost impossible and can take an hour or more - it turns over fine and 'almost' starts but normally takes as I say about an hour before it does, and then it runs like a bag of nails for 5 / 10 minutes. But then it runs spot on and starts first touch of the key all day - until the next day! I had a Ford breakdown mechanic out yesterday and he tested no end of things (no lights on dash by the way) and concluded that the coil pack was probably failing as he was "getting a spark but not when he expected". So I fitted a new coil pack yesterday and this morning it is exactly the same! ANY IDEAS????? Thanks!
  23. Engine Malfunction

    I have a 2011 1.6 TDCI Focus I got the car with 40 something k miles on the clock I drove 100 miles a day for 6+ months its up at 66+k now. Until this point no issues it started first time every time not even a niggle. The closest thing to a problem I had was rear brakes jamming in cold weather. The car was serviced recently . One day I went shopping parked in a multi story and when I went back the car would not start. Eventually with a nasty noise (a bit like when gears change with a crunch but more metalic) it did start ran for a few seconds then displayed engine malfunction and would not start again. Called out recovery who sprayed easy start and got it going a few more times but each time the same thing happened. It was hit whilst being repaired and is in the body shop now. When it comes out and they take their courtesy car back I wont have transport and I cant just scrap it because its on Hire Purchase. Any ideas what the root cause might be. The garage it was at thought it may be the starter changed that out and the issue remains.
  24. Hi there, I have a 2004 Ford KA which doesn't like hot weather. It will start from cold fine and drive fine as well. But if I park it up for any longer than 10 minutes on a hot day, it will really struggle to start, seems to be worse the hotter the weather is. It will still do it on cooler days just not as bad. I have changed the oxygen sensor which made no difference. All I can think of is the idle control valve but it looks like it's a pain to get to! If I start it with say a 1/4 throttle it starts perfectly. Poor Starting: Really Poor Starting, here it was taking ages to start, but as soon as I touch the throttle it starts straight away: Good Starting But Dodgy Idle, as you can see after a while it picks itself up: How It Should Be: My Ka has been doing this for ages so if anyone has any ideas please let me know, Cheers, Ben
  25. Hi fellow Ford owners, Our car, an S-Max 2L petrol (2009), seems to have developed a fault but the garage’s diagnostics are far from clear. About 2 months ago the engine warning light came on and the local Ford garage traced it back to the temperature sensor in the CAT. They could find no fault in the CAT, so one possibility was that the temperature sensor itself was faulty. They cleared the alarm and advised us to see how we got on. If the fault came back soon then they said they would suspect the CAT itself. The car has been driving fine and now 2 months later the engine warning light re-appeared. This time I took it to a completely different independent garage and they confirmed the warning again came from the temperature sensor in the CAT. They did emission tests and checked the exhaust system and all was confirmed to be OK with the CAT. However they noted that the car was difficult to start, unless the clutch was pressed in when starting the car. We may have got used to it but yes one usually has to rev it once or twice after starting the engine or otherwise the rev may drop. And in the first few minutes of driving the rev can go up & down a bit, sometimes causing the engine to race a bit, until the engine has warmed up when everything seems to be OK. This, they believe is due to the Dual Mass Flywheel not working OK. They hypothesis is that if the flywheel doesn’t work as well as it should this can cause unburned fuel to end up in the CAT, then when this ignites this caused the CAT to report a high temperature. I am no car engineer and with the car otherwise functioning OK it makes it hard to justify spending the quoted £1300 repair for clutch & DMF replacement. They say there is a possibility that not doing the repair could impact the CAT and eventually damage it. Has anybody else come across this problem, first of all of the car not always starting well, the engine RPM being up & down for a while and getting faults on the CAT temperature sensor? I see no other issues with the flywheel, no rattling or grinding for example. Many thanks,