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Showing results for tags 'tutorials/alternator+pulley'.

Found 40 results

  1. Really hoping someone can help. My alternator died leaving me by side of road when battery gave up last of juice. After £500 to replace (is it just me or have I been gouged?), I have got it back find it seems to be stuck in limp mode, with a max.65-69mph and poor acceleration and seems to be smoking a lot (was not smoking noticeably at before new alternator).   anyone know what is going on and how to get it sorted?
  2. Hi, I have a 1.4 Fiesta 2004 Mk 6. About 2-3 moths ago the battery light came on, I took it to the local garage and was advised that it was a problem with an alternator so had that replaced. The battery light was still on when they gave the car back and I was suspicious but the mechanic showed me the alternator charging the battery etc and was satisfied that the car worked well enough, albeit with the battery light on. About a month later, after leaving the car parked for about 10 days the battery was flat, so took it upon myself to invest in a new battery. Problem solved but battery light still on. I have been driving the car a fair bit since then, couple of long distance trips, lots of night driving etc all with the battery light still on but the car seems fine. Have even left the car parked for 3 weeks and it started first time. I do however want to get the light sorted so I can tell when there actually is a problem with the alternator and/or battery and concerned that it may not pass the dreaded MOT with this warning light on. Would be grateful if anyone knows if this is a common problem with a simple solution, my searches on various sites hasn't come up with anything of much use. Your help is much appreciated.  
  3. Mk2 Tivct Alternator Amp

    Hey - Have done a quick trawl of the forums but couldn't find a definite answer: Can those who have a Ti-VCT1.6 petrol MK2 Ford Focus possibly let me know what amperage your alternator is? Location would be on the alternator sticker, or for those techie a variable set in the ECU which can be read by ELMConfig. Trying to check I've had the right amperage one put in. Thanks!
  4. Hi really need some help im puzzled here. recently replaced my alternator on a 2008 c max 1.8 tdci, on buying a new belt which wherever i look states it is a 6 rib 1520 lentgh it seems way to long if i route it in the way a digram shows which ill add. it is the only diagram i can find that looks exactly the same as my pulley set up. now the question is what belt should be fitted because if it is a different lentgh for the life of me i cant find it. does anyone have any clues, the picture ive added seems to be from a 2008 focus 1.8 tdci but is the closest i can get to my c max pulley and routing diagram. any help is greatley appreciated. it is figure 1 on the pic with A/C not the right side.
  5. Driving along and noticed battery light permanently on. Pulled over and shut off engine. Tried to restart the car but all dash lights blinking erratic,central locking opening & closing by itself rapidly & engine struggling to crank. Called the AA and they diagnosed alternator fault. Car has done 67k. The intake air shut off throttle body has been leaking mist oil and pooling in the flange grooves. This is directly above the alternator and i always noticed oil on the alternator and belt especially after a motorway drive. Im always cleaning it off and stuffing tissue in the area to stop it dripping. Possible o ring or gasket failure at flange. Ford said they dont sell gasket/o-ring separately. Car is at my local garage who mainly do German and Jap cars and they were not able to take alternator out in the 45 min job time they gave me so missed work again for this car as its still in the garage as mechanics went home. Looked on the forum and googled but mainly found results for other fords but not my Fiesta. Can anyone show me a fix to stop the oil mist leak on flange on the intake air shut off throttle body and how do you take the alternator out. Ford Fiesta mk6.5 1.6 tdci 2007 year. Thanks.
  6. Electrical Power Issues

    Hi All, FYI before I go into my story this is an 11 plate 1.6 Ecoboost petrol engine with start-stop. having lots of issues with my S-MAX of late, first of all it was suspected a power drain whilst the car was stood still but now seems like an issue with the alternator. The power issues first started after driving around all evening and when waiting at the last stop for my Son to come out of club the car warned me low battery. Days later I got stuck at traffic lights with no ability to turn the engine over, RAC tried to jump with nothing happening. Mechanic pronounced the battery dead at the scene and put a new, larger battery (have no idea if its the right type). Anyway all fine for a few days but the starter seems to be getting slower and even whilst driving home last night the power steering failed, battery light came on etc... The car would not start at this point. Now this morning car would start and I found the in car diagnositcs (thanks you tube), now the battery on the dash display (I don't have a volt meter handy), reads 12.6V even when the engine it running, then put stuff on like lights heaters this goes down to under 12 volts. If this is showing power at the battery terminals I assume this would be higher as the alternator charges the batter, but hay I don't know. Anyway looking around the web there seems to cables going into the alternator, the power output and regulator connector. Now these videos ect talk about a 3 pin connector, but looking under my bonnet (looks like the alternator is on the front left of the engine, there are 2 connectors a large cable (power to battery) and nother connector, but the connector has holes for 2 cables and only 1 cable going in ?!?!? I was looking to unplug second cable to turn the alternator into none smart mode and see if that charged the battery. Anyone have details on this engine and its alternator, also the second plug, should that just pull out or is it clipped in? Thanks to any help recieved. PS have attached image of what I think to be the alternator and its two connectors.
  7. Alternator Needed

    hi all i have a 2002 st 220 that needs a replacement alternator however in ireland these are quiet rare car and i cant seem to source one is there an alternative such as taking one from a 2 litre focus or so on any help is greatly appreciated as im hoping to sell soon
  8. Hi all, My fiesta is causing me many troubles so please bear with me whilst I pour out the details... 1. Instrument Cluster replacement due to immobiliser fault. 1 week later: immobiliser came on whilst driving so it was returned to Ford but the fault did nit reoccur. 2. First motorway drive - Speedo reading incorrectly; stuck at 50, stuck at 70, dropped to 30 when stationary then moved to 70 and stayed there. When driving the needle climbs at a reasonable speed. 3. Post motorway drive - Loud whirring/screeching sound from engine - sounded like a belt movement. No change when revving - okay once cooled and driven again for a shirt distance. 4. Didn't drive car for 2 weeks (involved in accident) - drive 10 miles to Ford and cab hear screeching noise again. Revved (gas pedal to floor) and upon calming there was a 'clunky' noise and then the normal engine/screeching belt sound remained. Any ideas? Am I unlucky or is it linked? (Asking for advice as I go away on holiday tomorrow and will not liaise with Ford for a week! Plus want insight as I think the instrument cluster is faulty even if not the cause of both problems?)
  9. Hi Guys! New to these forums and i have a concern about my car which I though I would put to you guys and gals. Bought myself a Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 57 plate back in September '14 and loving it. Did have one problem, kind of early, which was when I would go to work in the morning the battery would be dead, or would die on me very quickly if i was in there listening to music with the engine off. Gave the car to my girlfriends step-dad who is a MOT engineer who did some power tests? on it and determined the battery was dead. Got a new battery and everything seems to be fine, hasn't died on me since (although I'm now paranoid about having electrics on too long without the engine). Recently i have noticed that when changing down to 2nd and 1st the tachometer would suddenly drop down to about 700, quite quickly, causing the lights to dim and then would shoot up to about 1,100. This doesn't happen all the time but mainly when i pull into my driveway; i have to slowdown considerably as its a tight turn with a high curb. This doesn't happen when changing between higher gears just when dropping down to 2nd and 1st. It also happens when reversing into my parking spot, revs would drop, lights would dim and previous owner has fitted an annoying reverse sensor (that doesnt work), this would also make a dying noise. I combated that problem by giving the car extra revs when reversing. The worst time this has happened is when i pulled into my driveway and my revs dropped and rose, i took the car out of gear to roll the rest of the way and the revs kept going up and down until i came to a full stop. I have had a look through the internet and as you can imagine i have found all sorts of different causes, belts, alternator, battery, battery cables but i wanted to see if anyone here has had a similar problem or knows what it may be? The car has only done 50k miles so i would like to think a new alternator is not needed? Let me know your thoughts. (i will get an engineer to look at it as soon as i can) Thank you! Dev.
  10. Hi all, Apologies... yet another "battery warning light / voltage Issue" I see this is a common problem with various solutions. Just after an opinion or two on whether I will be ok driving around until the weekend and doing a longer drive on Saturday or should I look to fix the issue before then? I am part exing the car on Saturday but I have to make it to Harpenden from High Wycombe to do so! Some details of the issue: About 6 weeks ago the battery light came on on my Focus (1.6 LX mk1 2005) and stayed onA couple of days later the car would not start after workI got a push start and got about half way home (approx 2.5 miles into a 5 mile journey - just moved house and journey is about half of what it was)Dash went blank - no speedo, lights, warning lightsRAC called, suspected alternator, fitted a temporary battery which got me to my local garageThey replaced the alternator, all good and oil was topped up as it was lowA couple of weeks later the light came backThe garage fitted another alternator (the first was faulty), all goodAnother week and the light came on then disappearedBack to garage, they could find no faultAnother week on again and after a longish drive too (High Wycombe to Watford and back) light comes on and disappearsFind dash trick to check voltage - 11.2V engine off and 13.5V engine on. Booked into an electircal specialist for fault finding.Have kept it in diagnostic mode showing voltage while driving and it fluctuates between 13.5V and 13.7V occasionally reaching and 11.2 - 11.4 when off (generally 11.2 ish). I have been doing a longer circuit so that my drive to/from work is a little longer (25-30 minutes instead of 10) in a bid to get some form of charge into the battery!Have been looking at cars any way so on Saturday I drove from High Wycombe to Slough, (light came on and went off at the services in slough), then to Harpenden and back home (no light). Placed a deposit on a car in Harpenden.The light has again come on on arrival at work this morning and then gone - but I've just gone out to do the dash test and it is on again...So my question is am I safe to keep driving it and to do a motorway journey on Saturday or should I take it to the garage round the corner this evening and ask them to revisit the issue?
  11. hi to all i have a 1.6 focus petrol automatic zetec se .......i was driving home when i heard a rapid knocking sound from the engine that gets faster when accelerating and when slowing/stopping car idles irratic then stalls .......put 4 litres of 5w30 in.... now when trying to start dash and roof light go dim/off starter clicks once....tried jumping from another cars battery but leads got hot quick and i saw a tiny plume of smoke from middle of engine so.... is it wise to try and jump start again ? any idea about irratic idle and stall ? or what knocking noise is ? car wont start helpppppp....
  12. Hi all I'm looking for a bit of advice regarding a problem with my 2009 Focus 1.6 petrol. I have noticed for a while that there is a metallic rattle that comes from the engine bay when accelerating at low revs, for example pulling away from rolling in 2nd gear then pushing the accelerator to get up to speed I hear the rattle for a second then it's fine. I don't get the noise if I give it enough revs. I can force the car to make the sound if I travel at approx 30 mph and put the car into 5th gear then floor the accelerator the rattle will occur for a short time like a second then the car will gradually build up speed whilst labouring. I initially thought it was exhaust or heat shield rattling around. But my dad seems to think it's engine ping/detention etc.. I have checked under the car for heat shield rattle and can't find anything untoward. I have a ford f super 2 diagnostic lead and soft wear coming Friday and will try this to see if any of the many sensors are playing up. Has anyone ever had these symptoms on a car? Also whilst carrying out an oil change yesterday I was looking around the engine bay whilst the engine was running and see that the bottom pulley on the crank (runs the AC compressor) was wobbling around like it was out of balance or the rim of the pulley was bent on one side. The outer pulley directly next to the air con pulley runs fine and true? I found out that this pulley is a vibration dampener? Is it supposed to move around like that? I would appreciate any feedback from any ones knowledge and experience. Sorry for the long post but want to put as much detail down as possible. Thanks Ryan.
  13. I purchased a 2002 Focus yesterday and it has a noise coming from the belt to the left of the engine (as far as I know main drive belt). I have found the source to be a very slightly wobbly pulley. When the car is idle you can hear it making a noise. There is a very slight bit of movement if I try it with my hand. I think from the diagrams I have seen it might be the water pump pulley. It looks like a plastic pulley (though just covered I'm guessing) with bolts attaching it to the engine. It might be a case of just tightening the bolts but I doubt it. Please does anyone have any ideas on what I should do next? I have attached an image with the pulley circled in yellow (please ignore the red writing). Thanks
  14. Hi all, I have a 2011 Ford Focus 1.6 titanium. Earlier on I was driving and I noticed when I turned into a corner that the power steering cut off half way through the corner, I straightened up and it seemed to sort itself. I stopped to check and could see nothing wrong with the wheels and there was no fluid leeking. I got back in the car and everything seemed okay, about two miles down the road, the power steering went completely. This was followed by all the elctrics cutting out apart from the backlit dash, the needles all fell to 0 and all the warning lights came on. I parked up and switched the ignition off. I went and had another look and could see nothing wrong. I jumped back into the car and tried to start it but to no avail, It wouldn't start. I got a jump start and the car started fine and all the warning lights were off. I drove a further 7 miles with no faults. When I arrived at work I check the voltage to the battery, when the engine was off it was reading 12.5v, when idling it was reading 15v and when revving it read the same (this seems rather high). The car then sat for around 7 hours. I went back out to drive home expecting that the alternator was the cause of my problems but It started fine and I drove home, 16 miles with no problems atall. Anyone have any clue what could be the problem?? I've been looking for someone with similar problems and I have found alot of people having problems with the regulator, However, I recon that i'm just looking for anything to be faulty at this stage. Thanks, Hunter
  15. Hello people of the Ford Forum, I have a W reg 1.8 petrol Ford Focus Zetec. I've had it since September and I bought it in a car auction. The car is sound, it passed its MOT earlier this month albeit with a new brake cylinder on the o/s/r brake, but I cannot crumble as the car was cheap. My problem is that my alternator packed up the other day, it didn't give me any warning. The radio turned off, then the dash board lights started going. Not at any point did the battery light or any light other than the air bag warning light come on to give me notice. After calling out the AA I was told it was the alternator. So after buying a battery charger and charging the battery completely full I drove it with no heater, lights and radio to my local motor mechanic 20 miles from where I live. They have replaced the alternator but now the battery light stays on and the front windscreen heater does not work. The garage say they will sort it, but as I needed the car back I have to take it back when its convenient. I just wanted to know everybody's thoughts? Is it the alternator, a loose wire, what could it be? I'd appreciate any feed back so I can seem smart when I go back to the garage and tell them to investigate further.
  16. Hi guys. Registered for the site in the hope that somebody can prevent me from parking my Mondeo in the canal! Had a 1.8 diesel 2007 (mk4) Mondeo for 2 years now. I'm on my third battery. The most recent has gone dead twice in 4 months. Most recently about 2 weeks after I had my alternator replaced. Obviously I'm reluctant to take car in for the diagnosis of the fault because I can't really afford a massive garage bill. And after my local garage diagnosed the fault as being alternator, I'm worried I might get another incorrect diagnosis and still have the problem. I know there are many suffering from flat battery issues through browsing the net looking for a fix. Anybody have a miracle cure? Appreciate your help.
  17. Mk6 Fiesta Start Up Problems

    Hi guys. Don't know if anyone will have any ideas but I'm having some issues when starting up my car. I've got a 2003 (53) Fiesta LX 1.25. The issue is sometimes when I try to start the car it can take about 5 - 8 seconds to fire up. I can hear the starter turning, trying to start the car but it just makes this spluttering sound and slow comes to life on 0 revs, then the revs go up. But I've I turn the engine back off straight away and start it again it will start first time usually. It's strange because this doesn't usually happen when the engine is cold. I can be driving the car and leave it for say 20 mins and when I come back and the engine is still moderately warm it will do this and I have no idea why. It's been more prominent the past few weeks.. Any idea's???
  18. Hi everyone, I'm having two problems with my 2002 Focus w/ an auto transmission. One is that during acceleration, seemingly in any gear, the transmission will "skip" and downshift for a couple seconds, then "knock" back into the appropriate gear. This leads me to believe there is an issue with the transmission, so I made an appointment with a tranny shop to scan the thing and make sure all codes are correct. The second issue is that the headlights and radio have begun flickering and dimming. This makes me think the alternator is at fault. Often, but not always, these two issues will happen at the same time; the transmission downshifts and the radio & headlights flicker, then they correct themselves almost immediately. I'll add that 10 months ago I had a new radio installed; no amp or anything, just a head unit. Other than that this vehicle has had no major issues or repairs in its 12-year, 85,000 kilometer lifespan. Is the alternator and transmission linked in some way? Could this be a battery issue? Fuses? Or two separate issues altogether? Are these issues a cause for concern? I'd appreciate the insight that any of you have into the innerworkings of this vehicle, whether you've experienced similar issues or simply know more about it than I do and are willing to share. Thanks in advance, Alex
  19. Hi there, first time poster here. I'm taking my vehicle to a tranny shop next week and hoping to gather some more information beforehand if possible. I'm having two problems with my 2002 Focus w/ an auto transmission. One is that during acceleration, seemingly in any gear, the transmission will "skip" and downshift for a couple seconds, then "knock" back into the appropriate gear. This leads me to believe there is an issue with the transmission, hence my appointment with the tranny shop to scan the thing and make sure all codes are correct. The second issue is that the headlights and radio have begun flickering and dimming. This makes me think the alternator is at fault. Often, but not always, these two issues will happen at the same time; the transmission downshifts and the radio & headlights flicker, then they correct themselves almost immediately. I'll add that 10 months ago I had a new radio installed; no amp or anything, just a head unit. Other than that this vehicle has had no major issues or repairs in its 12-year, 85,000 kilometer lifespan. Is the alternator and transmission linked in some way? Could this be a battery issue? Fuses? Or two separate issues altogether? Are these issues a cause for concern? I'd appreciate the insight that any of you have into the innerworkings of this vehicle, whether you've experienced similar issues or simply know more about it than I do and are willing to share. Thanks in advance, Alex
  20. Focus Mk1 Alternator

    Hello i was wondering if someone could help me with alternator problems.. Basically im running a fair good sized sound system and im looking for an up rated alternator, i have a focus mk1 1.4 cl, i was speaking to a bloke at euro car parts and they sell a 150amp alternator off a different focus, im just wondering does anyone know which other focus alternators will fit mine? Thanks in advance Liam
  21. Hi today my alternator caught on fire. I had some issues before, when driving in hot day London traffic felt burning smell. After inspecting noticed wires in alternator had plastic melted. Next day I went to a garage and they tested my alternators voltage which was to high. Engineer told me that alternator is faulty and will pack up soon. Which it did today (after 8 months). I did get a new alternator and fitted today, but when I tested it had 16V on idle and 15.7 with lights and con on. My mondeo have a heated seats, factory fitted xenon lights, and so on. After running for about 3mins it started smelling burn again and alternator is to hot to touch. What could be a reasons of that? Please help
  22. Hi All need your opinions if possible. I have a Mk2 2005 focus with 38000 on the clock. Never had any problems in the past. Is always serviced and well looked after. Last week for first time i had problems. (on Good Friday) Had been out for the day and my Ignition light came on. Took it to quickfit for battery test and alternator test and was told it was low power. (the chap seemed to know quite a bit) Took it down to the ford garage in altrincham and they were no help. No one available for advice. Anyways went back to the car park to drive home and got no power. All the lights were flicking on an off on the way to the garage. anyways, the guys at ford didnt help me so the recovery guy came and booted the battery. Got 3/4 way home and it died again. Booked in next day in local garage and they replaced the alternator for 371.00. (not happy but had to accept it) the car ran ok for 3 days then took it for drive down motorway (approx 40 miles) On way home my ENgine management light came on. Just out of interest i had bought a diagnostic cable and software when it went wrong earlier in the week. I got home and connected it up and the following were logged. P0523 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/ Switch Circuit High Input P0620 Generate Control Circuit P2503 Charging System Voltage Low I didnt want to cause any more problems so didnt drive it over the weekend. today took it back to the garage (the engine management light was on every time i turn the car on over the weekend but today it was off) I showed the guy at the garage the printoff from the diagnotic software i used(called Formidable 2.03) and as expected he just said "leave it with us" i got a phone call mid afternoon to say my car was ready. have picked it up and been charged another 40 +vat speaking to the guy i asked about the log that i had found and he told me that his machine didnt show anything up other than error codes relating to low voltage The invoice said the folliowing "Check engine management light activation - connect to Bosch KTS 670 diagnostics and check engine management system. Note error codes relating to low voltage and earse. System Requiring 40 cycles for system reset." i asked if it was related to new alternator problems as have read that new alternators can provide to much power which can trigger other issues. he said the faults could have occured in the past and just decided to "show up" This i'm not convinced about! Ive never had any problems at all in the past. Does this sound correct?? Im a pc engineer and when i diagnose computer problems the first thing i do is check the fault logs, repair the problem, check and empty the fault logs and see how the system runs. i just cant believe the two problems are not related. any opinions/ comments welcome many thanks Rick
  23. Focus Mk1 Alternator

    Hello does anyone know where you can get a uprated alternator from that puts out more amps? im running a big sound system and ive got two batteries in at the moment but could do with a bigger alternator.. Its for a focus mk1 1.4? Thanks Liam
  24. Hello I am a flat broke sculptor... need to change the Alternator... don't want to pay much more than a 100 euros for the Part: several on offer used with 100,000 km or so...... for 60+ euros but also new at the 120 Euro range. ( Bosch@ €300). can't believe that these generic new ones can be much cop, but who knows?. How long do the Alternators usually last ? i have heared 150,000 kms... I'm not keeping the car for long,, as I can't afford the maintenance, that's coming up so maybe i get away with one at 115,000 ( mine went at 165,000) How long does it take to change? One Mechanic says 3 hours, but another thinks 1 and a half. it looks quite accessible! Could i do it myself????? I don't want to spend more than 4 or 5 hours on it and its got to be straightforward, as I am not that patient. New ones in Germany and Austria are under brand-names CEVAN or BOLK recomendations please! thanks, Mark
  25. Hey Guys, Racking the brains of the experts. Driving a 2003 1.8 TDDi Focus and always had the common instrument cluster problem where the dials drop off intermintently, and warning lights come on for no reason, in wet weather but never an issue always comes back. The other day car failed to start but managed to bump it. Then after driving for 15-20 min (Battery light came on, then abs light, and handbrake) parked up and again it failed to start couldn't even bump it, by pushing or towing. Meanwhile the dashboard electrics were going a bit crazy warning lights flashing on and off. When turning to ignition, a relay under the bonnet was going skitz clicking away. Got the jump leads out and after 5-10 car started perfectly fine and drove as normal until 5min down the road where it died, headlights and dashboard lights went dim. Switched my hazards on and all of a sudden my interior light was going off with my hazard lights! So sadly towed it home. Now tried testing with a voltmeter and it seems that the alternator isn't charging the battery, but the indicator light on the battery isn't showing green, when I charged it full over night (less than a year old so still under warranty). So it would seem that my alternator has gone but to me that doesn't explain the rest of the elctrics going crazy. Anyone got any ideas? Thanks in advance