New Focus Owner Looking For Help!

[JadeFox]

Hey all,

So Ive just got my first car, its a focus mk1 2000, its a 2.0 litre zetec black and drink petrol like no tomorrow! :P

Anyway so im happy with it and had some work on it like take out scratches nicks and some alternator problems, the reason im here is because i want to do more on it, so my first question is how can i change the stereo? i plan on changing the original 6000 CD player with this a Wharfedale ICS171. Is this easy to change? and also does this new cd player come with a CD player unit or is it just the face plate / facia and how easy is it to change the original and fit this?

I was hoping someone could send me so plans like a Haynes manual if they have one, that would be great thanks! or nudge me in the right direction of getting one, im good at finding things but that is hard to find!

also i have a single back rear screen heater out and was wondering if there's an easy fix for these things?

I also have a nice dent in the front/side area above the wheel arch where it looks like someone sat on it and left a nice bend in the body work, and way of getting that fixed? will get a pic if requested somehow :P

Thanks all!

[Slugsy]

Hi Jade welcome to the forum.

Yours drinks petrol....my ST170 gets abou 23-25mpg at the mo with the weather!!

The original stereo is easily removeable with a set of releasing pins available from Halfords etc...or do what i've done before just use a few small alan keys!! Thats then slides out. Unplug it buy a loom converter approx £15 once again from Halfords along with a fascia plate adaptor which then "shirnks" the standard ford size to the smaller single din size. These are also about £10-£15. I think you may need an antenna adaptor which is £4.99 too. Then fit the new radio cage, plug in new radio, test it before you push it in place, tune a station in turn the car off completely keys out ignition. Then start the car. If it held its memory then all good if it doesnt change the red and yellow cable around on the radio loom.

As for the rear screen heater element being out i do belive there are repair kits available for them but never used them so dont know how good they are.

Depending on the dent someone like chips away may be able to remove it...failing that if its quite bad it'd be a new wing.

Slug

[Bagheera]

For Haynes, visit site www.haynes.co.uk. You can order your manual online.

[artscot79]

For Haynes, visit site www.haynes.co.uk. You can order your manual online.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-CD-Car-Stereo-Fitting-Kit-Fascia-Loom-FOCUS_W0QQitemZ350317540402QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_FasciaPlates_SM?hash=item51908d7432

full fitting kit you dont need to switch over any wires as the plug is direct fit the stereo shouldnt turn on with the ignition off only with the key in the ignition in the acc position which is no1 fittings simple i used 4 small drill bits to remove the old stereo tyhen unplug the 3 connectors the smallest connector isnt used so tape that to the loom to keep it out the way the new iso lead is a simople fit only 1 plug can fit in each connector so you cant get them the wrong way round then fit the adapter making sure all the poins are bent back and its secure then plug youre new stereo in with it in before you pop it in place as said check that the stations work after ignitions been turned off then make sure with no keys in the ignition that it cant be switched on you have switched ignition so it shouldnt run with ignition off if it does yellow and red are wroong way round but shouldnt happen really aS FOR THE REAR HEater Halfords sell a repair kit that paints on and fixes it

[JadeFox]

Wow massive thanks slugsy exactly the kind of advice i was hoping for!!!! im sorry to hear about your cars drinking problems, i thought i had it bad :D

I thought id ask about a Haynes manual because i don't know how helpful it would be for me so i thought id have a quick look at one first, like a .pdf file or whatever but if no body has one no loss. As for the rear heating element and the dent i can live with the way it is tho i have a tendency to tinker with almost everything so i may still play, don't know about a repair kit as of yet, short on money thanks to me beast :P

Ill have a look at these converters, depend in how they look, i.e. if they're hidden or stick out like a sore thumb before messing with the radio, im surprised to hear there's not a universal fascia plate size, but then again another money maker for these companies so ill start looking at these first, after seeing some videos on youtube i now realize the cd player is connected to the fascia :P

im afraid i have just a few more questions again tho, the first being does anybody know much about installing sub woofers? i intend to install one after fitting this new cd player, i have a friend who can make them, he knows alot about this but nothing on installing them in a car, so any guide on how to install one in a focus 2000 model would be a great help thanks.

The second is i cant find the correct Haynes manual, as far as im aware in the uk there are now 3 versions of the focus, Mk1 1998-2004, Mk2 2004-2010, Mk3 2010+ but the internet is a confusing place so is this the manual i need? Ford Focus Petrol and Diesel (98 - 01) S to Y. amazon have some funny years and version of Haynes manuals for the focus, again mine is a 2000 model x reg but its best to make sure.

Thanks again

Edit: Thanks artscot79 Ordered one, thx for the advice aswell!

Also forgot to ask about the controls on the wheel, will they work with the new radio? just wondering and hoping, Thx!

[artscot79]

Wow massive thanks slugsy exactly the kind of advice i was hoping for!!!! im sorry to hear about your cars drinking problems, i thought i had it bad

I thought id ask about a Haynes manual because i don't know how helpful it would be for me so i thought id have a quick look at one first, like a .pdf file or whatever but if no body has one no loss. As for the rear heating element and the dent i can live with the way it is tho i have a tendency to tinker with almost everything so i may still play, don't know about a repair kit as of yet, short on money thanks to me beast

Ill have a look at these converters, depend in how they look, i.e. if they're hidden or stick out like a sore thumb before messing with the radio, im surprised to hear there's not a universal fascia plate size, but then again another money maker for these companies so ill start looking at these first, after seeing some videos on youtube i now realize the cd player is connected to the fascia

im afraid i have just a few more questions again tho, the first being does anybody know much about installing sub woofers? i intend to install one after fitting this new cd player, i have a friend who can make them, he knows alot about this but nothing on installing them in a car, so any guide on how to install one in a focus 2000 model would be a great help thanks.

The second is i cant find the correct Haynes manual, as far as im aware in the uk there are now 3 versions of the focus, Mk1 1998-2004, Mk2 2004-2010, Mk3 2010+ but the internet is a confusing place so is this the manual i need? Ford Focus Petrol and Diesel (98 - 01) S to Y. Amazon have some funny years and version of Haynes manuals for the focus, again mine is a 2000 model x reg but its best to make sure.

Thanks again

Edit: Thanks artscot79 Ordered one, thx for the advice aswell!

Also forgot to ask about the controls on the wheel, will they work with the new radio? just wondering and hoping, Thx!

the manual you need is a 1998-2001 or 2004 depending on how they are dated rear element repair kits are very cheap about a tenner if youre lucky front wing depending on wherte the dent is is easy to knock out with the arch liner taken off the fascias look stock and dont stick out as for subs the alternators arent strong on these cars so i personally wouldnt the stock Speakers are actiually pretty good fitting subs into these older fords can be done some have no issues others have issues relating to the alternator etc so if it were me ide leave it with the new head unit by the time you add wiring and amps upgrade Speakers put in sound deadening etc even a cheap syatem will run into a few hundred

[ford focus edge]

Hey all,

So Ive just got my first car, its a focus mk1 2000, its a 2.0 litre zetec black and drink petrol like no tomorrow! :P

Anyway so im happy with it and had some work on it like take out scratches nicks and some alternator problems, the reason im here is because i want to do more on it, so my first question is how can i change the stereo? i plan on changing the original 6000 CD player with this a Wharfedale ICS171. Is this easy to change? and also does this new cd player come with a CD player unit or is it just the face plate / facia and how easy is it to change the original and fit this?

I was hoping someone could send me so plans like a Haynes manual if they have one, that would be great thanks! or nudge me in the right direction of getting one, im good at finding things but that is hard to find!

also i have a single back rear screen heater out and was wondering if there's an easy fix for these things?

I also have a nice dent in the front/side area above the wheel arch where it looks like someone sat on it and left a nice bend in the body work, and way of getting that fixed? will get a pic if requested somehow :P

Thanks all!

Sorry ive not got as good answers to your queries as the other guys but how the hell have you got a 2.0 for your 1st car admitadly i was 17 when i got mine and it cost me 2300k to insure a 1.6 but still personally id of thought if its your 1st beast (congrats on the right choice by the way) im guessing your premium must be something high! Oh and by the way changing the headunit is an absoutle doddle in a focus just make sure you have the correct fitting kit and that you get the silver blanking plate rather than the standard black one. Also dont butcher the ford one out!! someone did to mine before i owned it and has scared the dash and basically trashed the ford headunit.

Mike

[JadeFox]

Sorry ive not got as good answers to your queries as the other guys but how the hell have you got a 2.0 for your 1st car admitadly i was 17 when i got mine and it cost me 2300k to insure a 1.6 but still personally id of thought if its your 1st beast (congrats on the right choice by the way) im guessing your premium must be something high! Oh and by the way changing the headunit is an absoutle doddle in a focus just make sure you have the correct fitting kit and that you get the silver blanking plate rather than the standard black one. Also dont butcher the ford one out!! someone did to mine before i owned it and has scared the dash and basically trashed the ford headunit.

Mike

I know 2.0 for my first car is overkill, while this is MY first car, i did drive my parents Peugeot 106 'key largo' (extra cheap edition) before this, my what a pile of crap that thing was, im now 21 and have been driving since 17, no claims no nothing, plus i used to drive a van for 3 years for work though that didn't help on the insurance at all :P insurance was a touch under £800 car cost 2k :P there is 117k on the clock and is 10 years old but runs very nicely, was set out to look at an ST170 but my god im glad i didn't now, insurance quote was 1.2k and car was 4k.

No probs with it other than a dodgy alternator which the garage i bought it from promised they'd replace, the battery light keeps coming up at random times, about 60-70% of journeys it will come on, sometimes seconds after switching on the ignition sometimes hours and then not at all, very weird problem, so far Ive had the wires looked at and tidied up on the alternator, a new battery fitted as the old one wasn't what ford recommended to have but the alternator is a third party version and not the official Ford one so the mechanic seems to think its not giving off the right voltages and the ECU can tell this and hence bringing up the battery/alternator light.

Thanks for the help all will have a play :P

[artscot79]

I know 2.0 for my first car is overkill, while this is MY first car, i did drive my parents Peugeot 106 'key largo' (extra cheap edition) before this, my what a pile of crap that thing was, im now 21 and have been driving since 17, no claims no nothing, plus i used to drive a van for 3 years for work though that didn't help on the insurance at all insurance was a touch under £800 car cost 2k there is 117k on the clock and is 10 years old but runs very nicely, was set out to look at an ST170 but my god im glad i didn't now, insurance quote was 1.2k and car was 4k.

No probs with it other than a dodgy alternator which the garage i bought it from promised they'd replace, the battery light keeps coming up at random times, about 60-70% of journeys it will come on, sometimes seconds after switching on the ignition sometimes hours and then not at all, very weird problem, so far Ive had the wires looked at and tidied up on the alternator, a new battery fitted as the old one wasn't what ford recommended to have but the alternator is a third party version and not the official Ford one so the mechanic seems to think its not giving off the right voltages and the ECU can tell this and hence bringing up the battery/alternator light.

Thanks for the help all will have a play

it may be the dash cluster and not the alternator the fault with the dash clusdter includes random flickering of the battery light not having the right battery aint good must be silver/calcium not lead acid batteries if its not a ford smart chargr alternator then its no good really ford alternators when cold can charge at 15volts and above normal cars 12.5volts so the ford system would fry a normal battery in months do the dash trick on the main page and push the trip button till it shows b-it will have a voltage thet should be reading 14 volts plus then switch rear heater on and lights and check it again it shouldnt fall below 12.5 if it does the alternators no good

[JadeFox]

it may be the dash cluster and not the alternator the fault with the dash clusdter includes random flickering of the battery light not having the right battery aint good must be silver/calcium not lead acid batteries if its not a ford smart chargr alternator then its no good really ford alternators when cold can charge at 15volts and above normal cars 12.5volts so the ford system would fry a normal battery in months do the dash trick on the main page and push the trip button till it shows b-it will have a voltage thet should be reading 14 volts plus then switch rear heater on and lights and check it again it shouldnt fall below 12.5 if it does the alternators no good

Wow that's pretty cool, i thought the dash trick was for st170's only, i thought you had to have a clock thing that shows mpg or whatever it was the st has, very neat, thanks for the info you have given, the trouble is i don't know what im looking for in the menus other than (i think it was voltage) which was about 200~ with everything off, then i put everything on max i.e. radio, AC, lights (fog), front and rear screen heaters and dropped to 160~170.

Any idea how many times i have to push it to get to the right menu?

Thx for the help!

[artscot79]

Wow that's pretty cool, i thought the dash trick was for st170's only, i thought you had to have a clock thing that shows mpg or whatever it was the st has, very neat, thanks for the info you have given, the trouble is i don't know what im looking for in the menus other than (i think it was voltage) which was about 200~ with everything off, then i put everything on max i.e. radio, AC, lights (fog), front and rear screen heaters and dropped to 160~170.

Any idea how many times i have to push it to get to the right menu?

Thx for the help!

when you get dtc thats fault codes each press after that if there are any will show them other wise it will say dtc none then its youre mph then kph then fuel level then coolant temperature then it will show battery ie b- 14.7 etc

thats the battery voltage

full list #.Test

#.Syntax Displayed

#.Gauge/Indicator/Display Tested

#.Description

#.1..Gauge sweep.

#.GAGE.

#.Tachometer, speedometer, temperature and fuel.

#.All gauges go through a full up and down pointer sweep smoothness check, which takes approximately 5 seconds.

#.2..Fill in all LCD.

#.8888.

#.LCD display built into Speedometer.

#.Fills in LCD display therefore seeing if display functioning correctly.

#.3..Indicator bulbs.

#.BULB.

#.Instrument cluster illuminates indicator and warning indicators.

#.Illuminates all the warning indicators that are controlled by the instrument cluster.

#.4..ROM level.

#.rXXX.

#.Instrument cluster read only memory (ROM).

#.Displays the instrument cluster ROM revision level.

#.5..NVM level.

#.EXXX.

#.Instrument cluster non volatile memory (NVM).

#.Displays the instrument cluster NVM revision.

#.6..DTC.

#.XXXX or NONE.

#.Diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs).

#.To list the DTCs stored, press the RESET button.

..REFER to the instrument cluster diagnostic trouble code (DTC) index below.

..The DTC codes will scroll through if there is more than one.

#.7..Road speed mph.

#.XXX.X.

#.Speedometer.

#.Displays the speed signal input in mph.

#.8..Road speed Km/h.

#.XXX.X.

#.Speedometer.

#Displays the speed signal input in Km/h.

#.9..Engine speed.

#.XXXX.

#.Tachometer.

#.Displays the tachometer input signal (RPM).

#.10..Fuel volume.

#.FXXX.

#.Fuel sender system.

#.Displays the fuel volume signal input.

#.11..Coolant Temp.

#.XXXC

#.Engine coolant temperature.

#.Displays the engine coolant temperature signal input.

#.12..Battery Voltage.

#.bXXX.

#.Battery Voltage (t).

#.Displays battery voltage input.

#.13..ABS fail.

#.Ab-[H/L].

#.ABS system.

#.Displays ABS raw cluster input. (H = open-circuit, L = ground).

#.14..Electronic Brake Distribution Failure (EBD).

#.Eb-[H/L].

#.EBD system.

#.Displays EBD raw cluster input. (H = open-circuit, L = ground).

#.15..Illumination.

#.IL-[H/L].

#.Cluster and instrument panel illumination.

#.Displays instrument cluster and instrument panel illumination. (H = ON, L = OFF).

#.16..Crank Sense.

#.Cr-[H/L].

#.Cluster and instrument panel crank sense.

#.Displays Cluster and instrument panel Crank sense. (H = Ignition, L = Ground or over-charging).

#.(Crank sense it the Pos I (Accessory) supply to the cluster. If this is missing then the cluster will remain dead for about 20 seconds after key on. Then it will function normally. This can happen when someone fits a radio and blows the accessory fuse).

[JadeFox]

when you get dtc thats fault codes each press after that if there are any will show them other wise it will say dtc none then its youre mph then kph then fuel level then coolant temperature then it will show battery ie b- 14.7 etc

thats the battery voltage

First off a MASSIVE thanks to all for your help, was extremely useful!!!!!!!!!

I changed my stereo without any hitches, other than the new facia doesnt fit 100% but super glue can fix that :P, radio works flawlessly!! bluetooth connected to my phone so it plays all music wirelessly and flawlessly even plays phone calls over the Speakers and has a built in mic! Aux in, SD, USB in (trying to get a 320gb mini hdd to work with it but it currently cant find the files, digging into this now :/)

Anyway im well chuffed with it thanks for the help, the only thing that bugs me is that the steering column volume and seek controls don't work as i obviously had to remove the connector from the back of the old radio for this new one, i know its a long shot but would anyone know of a way to make this function work again? i had it in my head that i just connect the wires from the column to wires in the rear of the unit but thinking about it, its just power and audio cable unless anyone knows different?

Also ive had managed to get into the Dashboard diagnostics menu twice now but i cant seems to do it again for the life of me!!! heres what im doing, putting the keys in, turning it to the first position (steering lock?) then holding down the reset counter and turning to ignition then turning on the engine but its always resets the counter and never the shows the menu! what am i doing wrong?

I was waiting till i had some news on the dashboard before replying but since nothings happening this is all i can share so far. So thanks for the help so far but anything i can do with the extra controls? thanks!

[artscot79]

First off a MASSIVE thanks to all for your help, was extremely useful!!!!!!!!!

I changed my stereo without any hitches, other than the new facia doesnt fit 100% but super glue can fix that , radio works flawlessly!! Bluetooth connected to my phone so it plays all music wirelessly and flawlessly even plays phone calls over the speakers and has a built in mic! Aux in, SD, USB in (trying to get a 320gb mini hdd to work with it but it currently cant find the files, digging into this now :/)

Anyway im well chuffed with it thanks for the help, the only thing that bugs me is that the steering column volume and seek controls don't work as i obviously had to remove the connector from the back of the old radio for this new one, i know its a long shot but would anyone know of a way to make this function work again? i had it in my head that i just connect the wires from the column to wires in the rear of the unit but thinking about it, its just power and audio cable unless anyone knows different?

Also ive had managed to get into the Dashboard diagnostics menu twice now but i cant seems to do it again for the life of me!!! heres what im doing, putting the keys in, turning it to the first position (steering lock?) then holding down the reset counter and turning to ignition then turning on the engine but its always resets the counter and never the shows the menu! what am i doing wrong?

I was waiting till i had some news on the dashboard before replying but since nothings happening this is all i can share so far. So thanks for the help so far but anything i can do with the extra controls? thanks!

dash trick key in iognition press reset and hold start the car when test is shown release trip key if the stereo you have has a blue connection on the rear then autoleads can do a connector that makes it work https://www.auto-connect.co.uk/Ford.html though a lot dont have this feature its a special lead thats needed so you cant connect wires dont even try

[JadeFox]

dash trick key in iognition press reset and hold start the car when test is shown release trip key if the stereo you have has a blue connection on the rear then autoleads can do a connector that makes it work https://www.auto-connect.co.uk/Ford.html though a lot dont have this feature its a special lead thats needed so you cant connect wires dont even try

Thanks for your reply. I think ill leave the radio controls for now, im really enjoying my new stereo, tis brilliant!!! but weirdly it has reset everything only once in the two weeks Ive had it, as if the battery went flat or power was disconnected from it which neither has happened, all the stations i set and internal settings were all reset or blank, annoying but its only happened once and just wondered why?

Ive been trying to do the dash trick as well for about a week and I've not gotten it to work once, Ive tried endless combination's and the way you have specified many times and i cannot for the life of me get it to work! what i see is all the LED's (i know they're not LED's just forgotten what they're called) light up for test so they display 88888's and then it resets the clock to 0000's as if just pressing it normally to reset the clock. If i hold it in it does this, if I release it early it does the same thing. Stuck for ideas :/

Another problem has arisen :P whilst picking up the missus, she tried to get in the front passenger door so i hit the internal manual door lock on the door which unlocked the door and thought nothing of it. But since then when it comes to locking the car using BOTH manual locking and central locking the car locks but instantly unlocks, all door BUT the front passenger doors lock and then unlock, the front passenger door does nothing, if i lock the door from the inside manually both rear doors lock and i then can lock the car ONLY this way, any idea what is happening? it all seems dependent on weather the front passenger door is locked or not, really annoying me, means the central locking is now useless :P

Thanks all!

[artscot79]

Thanks for your reply. I think ill leave the radio controls for now, im really enjoying my new stereo, tis brilliant!!! but weirdly it has reset everything only once in the two weeks Ive had it, as if the battery went flat or power was disconnected from it which neither has happened, all the stations i set and internal settings were all reset or blank, annoying but its only happened once and just wondered why?

Ive been trying to do the dash trick as well for about a week and I've not gotten it to work once, Ive tried endless combination's and the way you have specified many times and i cannot for the life of me get it to work! what i see is all the LED's (i know they're not LED's just forgotten what they're called) light up for test so they display 88888's and then it resets the clock to 0000's as if just pressing it normally to reset the clock. If i hold it in it does this, if I release it early it does the same thing. Stuck for ideas :/

Another problem has arisen whilst picking up the missus, she tried to get in the front passenger door so i hit the internal manual door lock on the door which unlocked the door and thought nothing of it. But since then when it comes to locking the car using BOTH manual locking and central locking the car locks but instantly unlocks, all door BUT the front passenger doors lock and then unlock, the front passenger door does nothing, if i lock the door from the inside manually both rear doors lock and i then can lock the car ONLY this way, any idea what is happening? it all seems dependent on weather the front passenger door is locked or not, really annoying me, means the central locking is now useless

Thanks all!

it sounds like you have electrical issues wuth the car somewhere the dash trick shouldnt reset till you switch the car off then on again the locking could be a faulty door sensor so a code scans going to be needed the radio resetting is either again an electrical fault or faulty stereo does it swich on with no key in the ignition as it shouldnt

[JadeFox]

it sounds like you have electrical issues wuth the car somewhere the dash trick shouldnt reset till you switch the car off then on again the locking could be a faulty door sensor so a code scans going to be needed the radio resetting is either again an electrical fault or faulty stereo does it swich on with no key in the ignition as it shouldnt

Thanks once again for your reply! i really do appreciate any and all help so again a BIG thank you! Ive been trying everyday to get the dash trick working and always with no luck, no idea what im doing wrong.

The lock problem seems to have sorted itself out, i have no idea what i did to make it work but i accidentally locked myself inside the car, the only way to lock the car was to lock the passenger door which then locked all other doors (it acted as the main driver door) so i unlocked using the car keys and for some reason works again as it should. hope this helps someone :P

The car stereo does not switch on without the key in the ignition. It has today once again reset everything, im wondering wether i should return it back to argos and ask for a replacement, i would like to think its only the front unit causing the problem but should i change the whole CD unit aswell just for good measure?

Thanks!

[artscot79]

Thanks once again for your reply! i really do appreciate any and all help so again a BIG thank you! Ive been trying everyday to get the dash trick working and always with no luck, no idea what im doing wrong.

The lock problem seems to have sorted itself out, i have no idea what i did to make it work but i accidentally locked myself inside the car, the only way to lock the car was to lock the passenger door which then locked all other doors (it acted as the main driver door) so i unlocked using the car keys and for some reason works again as it should. hope this helps someone

The car stereo does not switch on without the key in the ignition. It has today once again reset everything, im wondering wether i should return it back to argos and ask for a replacement, i would like to think its only the front unit causing the problem but should i change the whole CD unit aswell just for good measure?

Thanks!

well there are only two wires that can cause the station to loose memory yellow and red the red wire is 12 v ignition switched the yellow is 12v constant that gives the memory to the unit the red is obviously correct as it only switches on with the key in the acc position the first click look at the wiring diagram for the stereo you bought and ensure that youre yellow wire on youre plug is connecting to the right wire on the stereo plug ill try do this simple and hopefully youre loom is the same colour

if the wiring is correct then the unit would appear to be faulty