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How Easy Is It To Change Break Pads And Discs


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#1 fiesta_lad

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 10:04 PM

Hi all just wondering how easy is it to change break pads and discs on a fiesta 1.3i 51 plate is it just a straight forward job i don't know notthing about cars when i say notthing i know thw basics. Just been watching a few videos on you tube to me looks staright forward so iam just wondering how easy is it and would you recommend me doing it myself knowing i know the basics. cheers alan

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#2 CAR PARTS EXPRESS

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Posted 21 April 2010 - 08:57 AM

They are easy to change BUT do you really want to try to change something that if you get it wrong could potentially cause an accident and kill someone..... just with you saying you know only the basics about cars and the brakes are pretty important!!

#3 wellzy

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Posted 21 April 2010 - 07:00 PM

front brakes maybe but defo not the rear brakes cause there drums and there nothing but a pain in the ar*e. you need all the right tools and equipment as well so unless you have a large tool box it'll be cheaper to put it into a garage or get a member on here who knows what there doin.

#4 fiesta_lad

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Posted 21 April 2010 - 09:51 PM

front brakes maybe but defo not the rear brakes cause there drums and there nothing but a pain in the ar*e. you need all the right tools and equipment as well so unless you have a large tool box it'll be cheaper to put it into a garage or get a member on here who knows what there doin.


I have ordered a tool kit looks quite good have a look http://www.kays.com/...8722-sku3282890

What do u think.

#5 PeteGlover

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Posted 22 April 2010 - 11:36 PM

That should do yah mate. I've done it on my MK5 too.

You're gonna need a 7mm allen key too, which dont often come in normal sets, to take the Callipers off.

I had to use a big hammer and a blowtorch to get the old ones off too because the hubs has rusted on.

Also get yourself a Haynes manual from Halfords. That'll talk you through the entire thing step by step.

Erms... you might need something to depress the calliper pistons too. I used pipe grips. Dunno if your set comes with them though.

Ooo... Don't forget copper grease. You can get that from Halfrauds too!...


Gimme a holla if you need any help mate

Also, Im not sure if they still do it, but Kwik fit did a free brake system check. Might set your mind at ease after you do it.

Pete

#6 fiesta_lad

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Posted 22 April 2010 - 11:51 PM

That should do yah mate. I've done it on my MK5 too.

You're gonna need a 7mm allen key too, which dont often come in normal sets, to take the Callipers off.

I had to use a big hammer and a blowtorch to get the old ones off too because the hubs has rusted on.

Also get yourself a Haynes manual from Halfords. That'll talk you through the entire thing step by step.

Erms... you might need something to depress the calliper pistons too. I used pipe grips. Dunno if your set comes with them though.

Ooo... Don't forget copper grease. You can get that from Halfrauds too!...


Gimme a holla if you need any help mate





Also, Im not sure if they still do it, but Kwik fit did a free brake system check. Might set your mind at ease after you do it.

Pete


Hello mate ive been watching loads of videos on you tube over and over again reading my haynes manual about 10 times aday is it staright forward doing the pads on a mk5 also have the brake pads when you take them out do they have cliped on the back or do they just slide out normal cheers mate.

#7 RickyBobby

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Posted 23 April 2010 - 08:33 AM

I changed my own on my last car and it was a relatively simple job. There are some clips from memory (was a couple of years ago) which were a pain to get off but managed it all with a basic tool set and the special "ford" allen key. you will need to buy that allen key specifically, i bought 3 different sets before i found i could only get it on its own.

#8 PeteGlover

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Posted 23 April 2010 - 05:09 PM

I changed my own on my last car and it was a relatively simple job. There are some clips from memory (was a couple of years ago) which were a pain to get off but managed it all with a basic tool set and the special "ford" allen key. you will need to buy that allen key specifically, i bought 3 different sets before i found i could only get it on its own.


Yeah thats the 7mm one I was on about. Bought a large £10 set from Wickes just because I needed the 7mm. Very hard to get hold of.

The pads are easy to take off once the callipers are off obviously. As Ricky pointed out, there's one clip holding the pads in place, bit of a pain to remove and refit. Need a bit of muscle behind yah but it's relatively easy. To be honest, i'd say that that's the hardest part =] The outside pad slides into place, but the inside one slots into the calliper piston.

Erms... Just remember those pipe grips because you're gonna need to depress the calliper piston a little as your new pads will obviously be wider than the older ones =]

Dunno if you've looked at prices but I was quoted between £120 and £180 at a number of garages. If you find the right place to buy from, you can find Discs and Pads for about £55 so it's well worth doing it yourself. A good job to cut your teeth on when learning about mechanics =]

Sorry for all these long posts... Stuff's just coming back to me =P Speaking of which, you're gonna need something to clean the discs with when they arrive. They come with a surface of oil on them, to protect them during transit, that'll soak into the pads if not removed. And make sure you don't get any copper grease on the pad's face (The part that contacts the disc). They are extremely porous xD

Pete

#9 fiesta_lad

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Posted 23 April 2010 - 09:57 PM

Yeah thats the 7mm one I was on about. Bought a large 10 set from Wickes just because I needed the 7mm. Very hard to get hold of.

The pads are easy to take off once the callipers are off obviously. As Ricky pointed out, there's one clip holding the pads in place, bit of a pain to remove and refit. Need a bit of muscle behind yah but it's relatively easy. To be honest, i'd say that that's the hardest part =] The outside pad slides into place, but the inside one slots into the calliper piston.

Erms... Just remember those pipe grips because you're gonna need to depress the calliper piston a little as your new pads will obviously be wider than the older ones =]

Dunno if you've looked at prices but I was quoted between 120 and 180 at a number of garages. If you find the right place to buy from, you can find Discs and Pads for about 55 so it's well worth doing it yourself. A good job to cut your teeth on when learning about mechanics =]

Sorry for all these long posts... Stuff's just coming back to me =P Speaking of which, you're gonna need something to clean the discs with when they arrive. They come with a surface of oil on them, to protect them during transit, that'll soak into the pads if not removed. And make sure you don't get any copper grease on the pad's face (The part that contacts the disc). They are extremely porous xD

Pete


Will a can of brake cleaner clean the disc ive seen someone on youtube spary the whole disc in brake cleaner is that ok to do. havent really looked into prices yet gonna ring around for a few quotes see who's the best in price range ive heared a number of people saying its simple to change pads and discs and to me it looks easy so i will give it a good go. cheers thank you

#10 stef123

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Posted 23 April 2010 - 10:26 PM

hey fiesta lad, hows it going?

i will breakdown what you will need and what you need to do.

required:

brake cleaner (to remove oil from brake discs and to clean caliper/carrier and yes its fine to soak everything in this!)
wire brush or similar (to remove all the crap from caliper/carrier)
brake grease (not suposed to use copper grease any more but to tell the truth i still do)
emery cloth
7mm allen key for calipers
basic socket set
large flat screwdriver (handy for thos awkward bits of dirt that are stuck and to get the pad clip on/off)
a g clamp or quick clamp to push the pistons back.
rope or bungee cord to tie up the caliper out the road (do not hang it on brake hose)
hammer

first of all, jack the car and remove the wheel. turn the wheels full lock to the side you wish to work on and remove the cap from the brake fluid resevoir (this is a must if you dont want to risk damaging seals)
remove the 2 plastic caps on the back of the caliper and undo the 7mm headed allen bolts
you will need to wiggle the caliper at this point and try lever the clip thing out the road, this will allow the caliper to come right off. remove the pads and push back the piston using your clamp making sure the brake fluid resevoir doesnt overflow. remove the carrier from the hub using whatever size socket or spanner is requires. the discs are not bolted on so should pull right off if not some gentle tapping with a hammer
clean the surface of the hub where the disc sits with emery cloth to make it nice and shiny/smooth again then give everything a good brushing and soaking with brake cleaner take care not to brush the rubber seals) - the more dirt you can remove here the better

give your new discs a clean with brake cleaner as they will be coated in oil to prevent corrosion, then fit them onto the hub.
refit the caliper carrier
refit the pads into caliper, apply a smear of 'brake grease' to any part of the metal backing that come in conact with the caliper or carrier. take care not to get any on the rubber seals as it will damage them! also make sure this does not get on any of the friction sufaces as it will not burn off!
refit the caliper and fit the bolts, then refit the metal clip (use the big screwdriver to lever it if needed)
get in the car and depress the brake pedal about 30% of its travel until the brake pedal goes absolutely solid, otherwise you will have serious issues as the pads wont be in contact with the disc and make sure you do this after doing each side!

its also a good idea to put some copper grease on the face of the disc where the wheel sits and on the threads, this will make the wheel much easier to remove next time as the have a habbit or corroding and being a little difficult to remove.

and thats about it :)

infact, its been a little while since i done ford brakes - i cant even remember if they actually have a carrier or if its just part of the hub. if it doesnt have one its all the better for you :) when i think about it im sure the caliper just fits over the discs, so when you remove it the disc can be pulled right off too

#11 fiesta_lad

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Posted 23 April 2010 - 10:50 PM

hey fiesta lad, hows it going?

i will breakdown what you will need and what you need to do.

required:

brake cleaner (to remove oil from brake discs and to clean caliper/carrier and yes its fine to soak everything in this!)
wire brush or similar (to remove all the crap from caliper/carrier)
brake grease (not suposed to use copper grease any more but to tell the truth i still do)
emery cloth
7mm allen key for calipers
basic socket set
large flat screwdriver (handy for thos awkward bits of dirt that are stuck and to get the pad clip on/off)
a g clamp or quick clamp to push the pistons back.
rope or bungee cord to tie up the caliper out the road (do not hang it on brake hose)
hammer

first of all, jack the car and remove the wheel. turn the wheels full lock to the side you wish to work on and remove the cap from the brake fluid resevoir (this is a must if you dont want to risk damaging seals)
remove the 2 plastic caps on the back of the caliper and undo the 7mm headed allen bolts
you will need to wiggle the caliper at this point and try lever the clip thing out the road, this will allow the caliper to come right off. remove the pads and push back the piston using your clamp making sure the brake fluid resevoir doesnt overflow. remove the carrier from the hub using whatever size socket or spanner is requires. the discs are not bolted on so should pull right off if not some gentle tapping with a hammer
clean the surface of the hub where the disc sits with emery cloth to make it nice and shiny/smooth again then give everything a good brushing and soaking with brake cleaner take care not to brush the rubber seals) - the more dirt you can remove here the better

give your new discs a clean with brake cleaner as they will be coated in oil to prevent corrosion, then fit them onto the hub.
refit the caliper carrier
refit the pads into caliper, apply a smear of 'brake grease' to any part of the metal backing that come in conact with the caliper or carrier. take care not to get any on the rubber seals as it will damage them! also make sure this does not get on any of the friction sufaces as it will not burn off!
refit the caliper and fit the bolts, then refit the metal clip (use the big screwdriver to lever it if needed)
get in the car and depress the brake pedal about 30% of its travel until the brake pedal goes absolutely solid, otherwise you will have serious issues as the pads wont be in contact with the disc and make sure you do this after doing each side!

its also a good idea to put some copper grease on the face of the disc where the wheel sits and on the threads, this will make the wheel much easier to remove next time as the have a habbit or corroding and being a little difficult to remove.

and thats about it :)

infact, its been a little while since i done ford brakes - i cant even remember if they actually have a carrier or if its just part of the hub. if it doesnt have one its all the better for you :) when i think about it im sure the caliper just fits over the discs, so when you remove it the disc can be pulled right off too


Sounds good to me i mean like ive said in this thread i know a little about cars but at the moment i havent got the money to pay garage rates a hour so i want to start and do my own work save money and at least you know its done right i think i will be bringing this laptop outside with me to follow the step by step guide you have written for me :lol: because i have changed the brake pads and discs do i have to put in new brake fluid or do i just top it up at the end if i have lost any also its best if i get myself some axle stands cheers for the guide through.

#12 fiesta_lad

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Posted 23 April 2010 - 11:02 PM

hey fiesta lad, hows it going?

i will breakdown what you will need and what you need to do.

required:

brake cleaner (to remove oil from brake discs and to clean caliper/carrier and yes its fine to soak everything in this!)
wire brush or similar (to remove all the crap from caliper/carrier)
brake grease (not suposed to use copper grease any more but to tell the truth i still do)
emery cloth
7mm allen key for calipers
basic socket set
large flat screwdriver (handy for thos awkward bits of dirt that are stuck and to get the pad clip on/off)
a g clamp or quick clamp to push the pistons back.
rope or bungee cord to tie up the caliper out the road (do not hang it on brake hose)
hammer

first of all, jack the car and remove the wheel. turn the wheels full lock to the side you wish to work on and remove the cap from the brake fluid resevoir (this is a must if you dont want to risk damaging seals)
remove the 2 plastic caps on the back of the caliper and undo the 7mm headed allen bolts
you will need to wiggle the caliper at this point and try lever the clip thing out the road, this will allow the caliper to come right off. remove the pads and push back the piston using your clamp making sure the brake fluid resevoir doesnt overflow. remove the carrier from the hub using whatever size socket or spanner is requires. the discs are not bolted on so should pull right off if not some gentle tapping with a hammer
clean the surface of the hub where the disc sits with emery cloth to make it nice and shiny/smooth again then give everything a good brushing and soaking with brake cleaner take care not to brush the rubber seals) - the more dirt you can remove here the better

give your new discs a clean with brake cleaner as they will be coated in oil to prevent corrosion, then fit them onto the hub.
refit the caliper carrier
refit the pads into caliper, apply a smear of 'brake grease' to any part of the metal backing that come in conact with the caliper or carrier. take care not to get any on the rubber seals as it will damage them! also make sure this does not get on any of the friction sufaces as it will not burn off!
refit the caliper and fit the bolts, then refit the metal clip (use the big screwdriver to lever it if needed)
get in the car and depress the brake pedal about 30% of its travel until the brake pedal goes absolutely solid, otherwise you will have serious issues as the pads wont be in contact with the disc and make sure you do this after doing each side!

its also a good idea to put some copper grease on the face of the disc where the wheel sits and on the threads, this will make the wheel much easier to remove next time as the have a habbit or corroding and being a little difficult to remove.

and thats about it :)

infact, its been a little while since i done ford brakes - i cant even remember if they actually have a carrier or if its just part of the hub. if it doesnt have one its all the better for you :) when i think about it im sure the caliper just fits over the discs, so when you remove it the disc can be pulled right off too


Hello again is this the sort of 7mm allen key i need.

http://tooltray.com/...mpaign=Shopping

#13 stef123

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Posted 23 April 2010 - 11:15 PM

Sounds good to me i mean like ive said in this thread i know a little about cars but at the moment i havent got the money to pay garage rates a hour so i want to start and do my own work save money and at least you know its done right i think i will be bringing this laptop outside with me to follow the step by step guide you have written for me :lol: because i have changed the brake pads and discs do i have to put in new brake fluid or do i just top it up at the end if i have lost any also its best if i get myself some axle stands cheers for the guide through.


no worries, if you get stuck just give us a shout, im usually not far away from the forum :lol:
you dont need to change the brake fluid at this point but it is recommended every 2 years. if you would like to do this i would see how you get on with the pads and discs first and see how it goes and how you feel.
when you fit new pads, you push the fluid from the calipers/brake lines back into the resevoir so sometime you need to remove some of it to stop it overflowing. unless its low right now you shouldnt need to top up.

Hello again is this the sort of 7mm allen key i need.

http://tooltray.com/...mpaign=Shopping


that allen key will do fine, might have a little issue with getting enough leverage though. its a bit of expense but i always use a 3/8 ratchet and 7mm socket bit.

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item3a591245e5

#14 fiesta_lad

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Posted 23 April 2010 - 11:30 PM

no worries, if you get stuck just give us a shout, im usually not far away from the forum :lol:
you dont need to change the brake fluid at this point but it is recommended every 2 years. if you would like to do this i would see how you get on with the pads and discs first and see how it goes and how you feel.
when you fit new pads, you push the fluid from the calipers/brake lines back into the resevoir so sometime you need to remove some of it to stop it overflowing. unless its low right now you shouldnt need to top up.



that allen key will do fine, might have a little issue with getting enough leverage though. its a bit of expense but i always use a 3/8 ratchet and 7mm socket bit.

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item3a591245e5


So that tool on ebay that just attach to the ratchet looks and sounds alot easy than a small allen key. Also i checked my brake fluid last week and its up to the max so iam i best takeing some out to stop it going everywere. its all sounds staright forward if i just take my time don't rush i can't go wrong.

#15 fiesta_lad

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Posted 23 April 2010 - 11:32 PM

no worries, if you get stuck just give us a shout, im usually not far away from the forum :lol:
you dont need to change the brake fluid at this point but it is recommended every 2 years. if you would like to do this i would see how you get on with the pads and discs first and see how it goes and how you feel.
when you fit new pads, you push the fluid from the calipers/brake lines back into the resevoir so sometime you need to remove some of it to stop it overflowing. unless its low right now you shouldnt need to top up.



that allen key will do fine, might have a little issue with getting enough leverage though. its a bit of expense but i always use a 3/8 ratchet and 7mm socket bit.

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item3a591245e5


Also what the best axle stands.

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