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dezwez

Brake Help

22 posts in this topic

hi anyone no if there are any joints in the rear brake pipes as

i have to renew right hand rear and dont want to have to remove

all the pipe to the master cylinder.

iam hopeing for one in center under the heat shield thanks.

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hi anyone no if there are any joints in the rear brake pipes as

i have to renew right hand rear and dont want to have to remove

all the pipe to the master cylinder.

iam hopeing for one in center under the heat shield thanks.

im not sure if there is but if there aint then you can easily make one. you can buy the female joining pieces for about £1.50 each.

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im not sure if there is but if there aint then you can easily make one. you can buy the female joining pieces for about £1.50 each.

do you have a picture of one i dont think iv come across these before

thanks

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will these work on the old steel pipes and would i need to fare the end of pipes

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will these work on the old steel pipes and would i need to fare the end of pipes

are you sure the old pipes are steel? you if you replace the pipe you will need to flare the ends, i think you can get a basic set to do this for £15 or so though.

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are you sure the old pipes are steel? you if you replace the pipe you will need to flare the ends, i think you can get a basic set to do this for £15 or so though.

yes there steel i will cheak this out at local motor factors thanks for you replys

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yes there steel i will cheak this out at local motor factors thanks for you replys

actually, the will be the ones with the green pvc coating on them?

ive never fitted copper pipe onto steel before so dont know if it 'allowed'? the steel pipe will be much harder to flare, dont know how easy it will be to come by either though?

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actually, the will be the ones with the green pvc coating on them?

ive never fitted copper pipe onto steel before so dont know if it 'allowed'? the steel pipe will be much harder to flare, dont know how easy it will be to come by either though?

if the originals are steel you cant fit copper to them youll have to take the pipe back all the way copper isd softer than steel and the two dont mix with pipes

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if the originals are steel you cant fit copper to them youll have to take the pipe back all the way copper isd softer than steel and the two dont mix with pipes

thanks for confirming that. its all to do with disimilar metals?(been a while since i was at school) really though isnt it? certain metals cause others to corrode quicker etc..

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thanks for confirming that. its all to do with disimilar metals?(been a while since i was at school) really though isnt it? certain metals cause others to corrode quicker etc..

well with the steel they take more pressure from the fluid than the copper does due to the different metals the steel is harder to flare in fact a pain to flair the copper is dead easy to flair the steel as you say corrodes faster than copper ever will it sound like hassle but the copper will probably outlive the car steel against copper will cause copper to corrode faster people have done it but the mot inspector will fail it

however you can have steel pipes with copper washers and brass t pieces this would be fine as the copper is used as a washer and is better then steel in that respect and brass t pieces will last a very long time but you cant join the steel to the copper pipe the likelyhood is if the pipes corroded at the rear it will be corroded at the front so its easier in the long run some garages can replace the steel part with another steel pipe some will tell you the lot needs to be done my old hyundai did that pipe bust on the reasr and the garage had to do the lot

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if the originals are steel you cant fit copper to them youll have to take the pipe back all the way copper isd softer than steel and the two dont mix with pipes

how about if there a joint can you contect then

thanks

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how about if there a joint can you contect then

thanks

nope youll need to replace the whole pipe from front to back

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nope youll need to replace the whole pipe from front to back

ok il do that then thanks for your replys thanks

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personally i would replace the pipe(s) with cupro nickel brake pipe (kunifer)

a little harder than copper but will withstand alot more pressure and is more resistant to corrosion. only down side is its slightly more expensive.

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hi steff123 you gave me some help last night i would just like

to ask are these sizes standard on a focus 3/16 10*1mm brake pipe nuts thanks

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hi steff123 you gave me some help last night i would just like

to ask are these sizes standard on a focus 3/16 10*1mm brake pipe nuts thanks

hi dezwez,

yeah 3/16" (4.72mm) O.D pipe is pretty much the standard size on all cars. I cant think why but im sure the thread size is 10x1mm - might have been when i done my brake hoses, again though i think this is quite a standard size for 3/16" pipe.

i have some spare bits of pipe and nuts from when i last touched the brakes so i will go check this for you right now...

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hi dezwez,

yeah 3/16" (4.72mm) O.D pipe is pretty much the standard size on all cars. I cant think why but im sure the thread size is 10x1mm - might have been when i done my brake hoses, again though i think this is quite a standard size for 3/16" pipe.

i have some spare bits of pipe and nuts from when i last touched the brakes so i will go check this for you right now...

your a star thank you

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your a star thank you

just thought, i know why i said 10x1mm - when i replaced rear wheel cylinders i was able to screw the bleed nipple (10x1x20mm) into either port meaning the brake pipe nuts are the same thread.

ive just checked for you anyway, definetly 3/16"/4.72mm O.D pipe and 10x1mm thread for the nuts.

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just thought, i know why i said 10x1mm - when i replaced rear wheel cylinders i was able to screw the bleed nipple (10x1x20mm) into either port meaning the brake pipe nuts are the same thread.

ive just checked for you anyway, definetly 3/16"/4.72mm O.D pipe and 10x1mm thread for the nuts.

cool thank you so much.

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cool thank you so much.

i dont want to start confusing things more but you will need to make sure you get a tool that is capable of making DIN/ISO/bubble flares (call it what you will). not sure if the cheaper ones will do this or not.

cheers

stef

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