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Problems With Acceleration


zebra
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Hi,

I have been having some issues with acceleration on my 2003 fiesta (1.4). Its mainly when in 3rd gear approaching 30mph its like there is some resitance holding the car back, then it just moves again. I have also noticed it can be sluggish accelerating on the mway.

The other day I had to really rev to get it to move off in first.

It was also chugging with the revs fluctuating between approx 800-1000 when waiting at traffic lights.

Are these things all related and if so any ideas as to what may be the cause??

I have had no lights appearing on the dashboard so no point putting it on a diagnostic computer.

I had a new ignition pack on about 18 months ago, and a new thermostat casing over Easter and have noticed that the water tank has a wierd layer on it - but could that be due to residual radweld in the system?

Lots of questions I know, but any help would be appreciated greatly.

Thanks

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Hi,

I have been having some issues with acceleration on my 2003 fiesta (1.4). Its mainly when in 3rd gear approaching 30mph its like there is some resitance holding the car back, then it just moves again. I have also noticed it can be sluggish accelerating on the mway.

The other day I had to really rev to get it to move off in first.

It was also chugging with the revs fluctuating between approx 800-1000 when waiting at traffic lights.

Are these things all related and if so any ideas as to what may be the cause??

I have had no lights appearing on the dashboard so no point putting it on a diagnostic computer.

I had a new ignition pack on about 18 months ago, and a new thermostat casing over Easter and have noticed that the water tank has a wierd layer on it - but could that be due to residual radweld in the system?

Lots of questions I know, but any help would be appreciated greatly.

Thanks

Hi, it seems by the symtoms you've described that the mass airflow meter is faulty,and yes there will be no light on the dash as the ECU does not recognise this as a primary fault only secondary on this year of vehicle,there may be a code logged in the memory if so this will be P0100 and possibly P0101,P0102.Best way to test this is to first find out if your getting the correct voltages at the connector,there should be a 12v supply and a wire giving a voltage when the vehicle is running between 0.5v and 5.0v for varying revs if these are all correct and you have no diagnostic equipment available you will have to revert back to the method of disconnecting the sensor to see if this adjusts the running of the vehicle in anyway,but be aware that disconnecting the MAF sensor whilst the engine is running WILL generate a fault code in the ECU.You mensioned a weird layer in the coolant res are you sure this is not oil??
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Thanks very much for the info, unfortunately I really don’t know much about cars or where to look for the things you mention, nor do I have a voltmeter :( so it will have to go to a garage and be checked I think. Can you give me any idea of how much a garage (it probably will not be a ford dealer) will charge me for checking and if it is the air flow, how much to fix it??

As for the water the weird layer looks like it has foamed up in just one of the compartments of the water tank – but not the bit you directly look into. So I can’t be sure if its oil or not. Like I said its only been just over a month since I put the radweld in and wondered if it is something to do with that?

I really hope its not oil, I cant afford for the head gasket to have gone!! The water did not look creamy, and its pink from the antifreeze so hard to tell if its clear or not, but I checked the oil cap and the dipstick with both look as they should. The heaters also were blowing warm air last time I checked. The engine has not over heated (and I don’t think it over heated when my thermostat casing leaked). I learnt these symptoms from when the head gasket went on my previous car.

The head gasket would not affect the acceleration though?? So there may be 2 separate issues?

Thank you.

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