Focus Central Locking Issue

[Kev12344]

Hi,

Have recently bought a 2000 W Reg 1.8 Zetec 5 Door Focus.

It had a central locking fault when bought. I discovered that the central locking had been deactivated under the steering wheel at the Siemens module. The green plug on the module was hanging down. The blue plug was still in the module.

Before I reconnected the green plug into the Siemens central locking module all the doors used to open from inside and out, obviously having to put the latch on by hand for the back doors etc.

Read up about all the central locking problems with the focus on the internet. I decided to plug the green plug back into the central locking module under the steering wheel. This was done with the back doors still locked.

I then tried the remote central locking and the drivers door kept clicking. The passenger door was showing signs of opening and closing. I then went to the passenger door and locked it via the key. When I pressed the remote locking button after that, the drivers door locked.

The problem I have is that the passenger door seems to be the main door for locking to get the drivers door to lock via the fob. Also both my rear doors which had been locked from the inside before I connected the green plug back into the central locking module are not locked and can't be opened either via the fob or from inside the car?

Had thought about removing the green plug again from the remote central locking module but the plug doesn't want to come back out? Any ideas how this is supposed to be removed again to try and diagnose via another route?

Also tried to reprograming the remote fobs using the ignition method. I get the chimes so I appear to be reprograming the fob correctly but I still have had no luck getting to the bottom of this issue.

Anyone any help/advice as to what the problem could be or any tips to try?

Thanks for any help on this matter.

Cheers

[rog99]

Hi,

Sounds like either a faulty CL module or, more likely, faulty wiring/shorts on one or more doors.

On this model the module controls the central locking only so you don't have to worry about the immobilizer. The green plug is the CL and blue is the remote. (this picture is just to illustrate where the tab is- this module does not have remote locking)

You could, if possible, swap the module over if you know someone with the same one and see if that cures the problem.

Failing that, try isolating each door in turn.

This can be done on the front doors by twisting the wiring connector in the door frame, just behind the door retaining strap, anti-clockwise. On the rear doors you have to undo the retaining strap to allow the door to open enough to gain access to the connector, then unclip the grommet on the door frame and undo the connector.

The Green plug is removed by pressing in the tab (arrowed) and pulling it downward.

[Kev12344]

Hi, thanks for the reply rog99.

I don't know anyone else with the same module to try your idea out.

I managed to get the wire back out of the module, thanks for the instructions on doing that. It was very stiff but it eventually worked free.

Problem I have is to do with the rear doors. They won't open either when the remote locking is activated via the module and keyfob or from the inside.

All the doors used to be able to be locked or unlocked from inside the car before I connected the module up to test the locking. Now both rear doors are stuck shut. Anyone any ideas/tips/tricks to get the rear doors open again?

Would disconnecting the module again and the battery cause the resistance from the power locks in the rear doors to go and enable me to open them again? I don't know if the doors may even be double locked, if so how do you remove the double locking, thats if the central locking is even working in the rear doors.

Otherwise I don't see any other way to get the rear doors open aside from cutting the door cards off the doors and replacing them. I think I saw the interior door panels for around £18 each.

This central locking fault is driving me mad lol.

Thanks for any further help & advice regarding the matter.

As always, its very much appreciated.

Cheers

Hi,

Sounds like either a faulty CL module or, more likely, faulty wiring/shorts on one or more doors.

On this model the module controls the central locking only so you don't have to worry about the immobilizer. The green plug is the CL and blue is the remote. (this picture is just to illustrate where the tab is- this module does not have remote locking)

You could, if possible, swap the module over if you know someone with the same one and see if that cures the problem.

Failing that, try isolating each door in turn.

This can be done on the front doors by twisting the wiring connector in the door frame, just behind the door retaining strap, anti-clockwise. On the rear doors you have to undo the retaining strap to allow the door to open enough to gain access to the connector, then unclip the grommet on the door frame and undo the connector.

The Green plug is removed by pressing in the tab (arrowed) and pulling it downward.

[shebzie]

Hi, thanks for the reply rog99.

I don't know anyone else with the same module to try your idea out.

I managed to get the wire back out of the module, thanks for the instructions on doing that. It was very stiff but it eventually worked free.

Problem I have is to do with the rear doors. They won't open either when the remote locking is activated via the module and keyfob or from the inside.

All the doors used to be able to be locked or unlocked from inside the car before I connected the module up to test the locking. Now both rear doors are stuck shut. Anyone any ideas/tips/tricks to get the rear doors open again?

Would disconnecting the module again and the battery cause the resistance from the power locks in the rear doors to go and enable me to open them again? I don't know if the doors may even be double locked, if so how do you remove the double locking, thats if the central locking is even working in the rear doors.

Otherwise I don't see any other way to get the rear doors open aside from cutting the door cards off the doors and replacing them. I think I saw the interior door panels for around £18 each.

This central locking fault is driving me mad lol.

Thanks for any further help & advice regarding the matter.

As always, its very much appreciated.

Cheers

Hi,

Sounds like either a faulty CL module or, more likely, faulty wiring/shorts on one or more doors.

On this model the module controls the central locking only so you don't have to worry about the immobilizer. The green plug is the CL and blue is the remote. (this picture is just to illustrate where the tab is- this module does not have remote locking)

You could, if possible, swap the module over if you know someone with the same one and see if that cures the problem.

Failing that, try isolating each door in turn.

This can be done on the front doors by twisting the wiring connector in the door frame, just behind the door retaining strap, anti-clockwise. On the rear doors you have to undo the retaining strap to allow the door to open enough to gain access to the connector, then unclip the grommet on the door frame and undo the connector.

The Green plug is removed by pressing in the tab (arrowed) and pulling it downward.

hi there i just found your post i also have problems with remote part the blue cable is not conected to anywere and i caint find anywere to plug it in can you help please or if u would have a diagram of conectors blue\green that i could trace i might find it hiding somewere

regards paul

[adamgwilliam]

2003 Ford Focus 1.8 ghia hatchback

Wondered if anyone can help. I found that the fuse was blown for central lock so replaced. After replacing all seemed ok until pressing boot release button. I have unplugged rear motor and still blowing fuses when pressing boot realise. I'm guessing this is going to be a fault further back in the wiring.?

[STEADS]

I'd be looking at the wiring as it goes through the bodywork if I'm correct in thinking where it goes through the tailgate is a common problem so I would start looking in that area apparently they snap over time.

[mjt]

Yes, the first place to look is inside the rubber boot between body and tailgate. The constant flexing work-hardens and eventually fractures the wiring. The insulation also gets brittle over time.On our 2003 estate the high-level brake light recently stopped working. When I looked the wire was broken and the insulation of several others was cracked and could easily have short-circuited. Even the rear washer tubing was cracked and leaking fluid into the tailgate.