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Dpf Is Knackered


hawker
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Thanks for all the research Catch mate, very informative.

However, the 03 Mazda6 was the one I owned between 2003 and 2006.

I am now looking for one between a 55 and 07 plate. (they facelifted the 6 around 2005) They improved the gearbox, suspension and fuel consumption (apparently)

The "official" MPG figures for the facelifted Mazda6 are as follows:

CO2 emissions 207 g/km

Insurance group 13

Vehicle tax band K

Fuel consumption (urban) 24.1 mpg

Fuel consumption (extra urban) 40.9 mpg

Fuel consumption (combined) 32.5 mpg

...And with 212 Co2 emissions its £235 in Road Tax for cars registered before 23rd March 2006. That's another £145 per year to find.

Coincidently cars with those emissions registered after that date the Road Tax jumps to £550 if I have read the tables correctly.....SEE HERE

And no Catch, you read the tables incorrectly! :P

Bank K also applies to cars Registered before 03/2006 having Co2 greater than 225.

A newer car with 212 emissions will still be in band K (£245)

the £550 you refer to applies to FIRST registered cars (after 1st April 2010)

I just noticed, the Post Office that I bought my Focus road tax off back in Nov diddled me out of £30! I was charged £120 for my road tax, and according to the tables, it should have been £90! :angry: (or did the rate drop after the Budget or something?)

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And no Catch, you read the tables incorrectly! :P

Bank K also applies to cars Registered before 03/2006 having Co2 greater than 225.

A newer car with 212 emissions will still be in band K (£245)

the £550 you refer to applies to FIRST registered cars (after 1st April 2010)

Obviously how could they stuff peeps with that rate of tax for a car they bought prior to announcing those punitive tax rates. My excuse is I'm also trying to do a bit of work here :D

I just noticed, the Post Office that I bought my Focus road tax off back in Nov diddled me out of £30! I was charged £120 for my road tax, and according to the tables, it should have been £90! :angry: (or did the rate drop after the Budget or something?)

Oh no they didn't your looking at this years applicable rates, not last years rates :P

It's all part of government plans to wean people of polluting cars, by widening the tax gap between high and low polluters. My Tax has gone up a fiver for this year to £155

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Obviously how could they stuff peeps with that rate of tax for a car they bought prior to announcing those punitive tax rates. My excuse is I'm also trying to do a bit of work here :D

Hurry up and get cracking using the new MPG figures then! :lol:

Oh no they didn't your looking at this years applicable rates, not last years rates :P

Oh Bugger!

I guess I won't be having a free curry tonight! :(

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FOUND IT.

My very first post on joining this forum back on 16th October 2009 entitled :

Beware the £1000 75K service if your in the market for a second hand diesel.

................................................................... Diesel Particulate Filters

Oddly enough it has become buried on page seven in the "Maintenance Forum" under a plethora of threads on how to change a light bulb etc. :ph34r: If ever there was an informative post that warranted becoming a "STICKY" I reckon this is one of them even though I do say it myself :D

As it tells you and links to articles that tell you all you need to know about DPF's And for what price you can pick up the Eloys75 additive, and the likely price for an OEM DPF for the 2.0 diesel engine in the Focus via this Volvo thread [as they share engines both being Ford owned at the time Is this a good price? - DPF additive top up And it would appear the length of time that it is scheduled to take to replace the DPF is one hour. The Simon mentioned in that thread is a supplier of Volvo OEM parts. And as the Focus and Volvo S40 range share the same diesel units he would not be a bad bloke to contact if you have any queries. He is a genuinely nice bloke, though I have never actually bought anything of him he is always happy to give you a quote and any info you may require.

It would save us starting new threads on DPF's every time somebody posts...HELP I've just bought myself a second hand Mk2 Focus TDCi and it's gone into limp home mode....Ford want a just short of a £1000 to put it right!!!

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  • 1 year later...

Focus 1.6 TDCi

83,000

Car in local garage getting Catalytic converter & DPF replaced.

Quoted from dealership £1500. Breakdown £810 for CAT &DPF, £213.00 for DPF replenishment.

Will up date with local mechanic costs when I get them.

These posts have been great thanks to Hawker and Catch.

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Focus 1.6 TDCi

83,000

Car in local garage getting Catalytic converter & DPF replaced.

Quoted from dealership £1500. Breakdown £810 for CAT &DPF, £213.00 for DPF replenishment.

Will up date with local mechanic costs when I get them.

These posts have been great thanks to Thaker and Catch.

I did my own, Cat/DPF combination cost me 248 with VAT and delivery, and the ELOYS fluid cost 130 for 4.5 litres and included the filling pipes.

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Focus 1.6 TDCi

83,000

Car in local garage getting Catalytic converter & DPF replaced.

Quoted from dealership £1500. Breakdown £810 for CAT &DPF, £213.00 for DPF replenishment.

Will up date with local mechanic costs when I get them.

These posts have been great thanks to Hawker and Catch.

Break down of costs.

Catalyst & DPF (aftermarket, one unit) £395.48 (Incl VAT)

Fuel Additive (Not a complete fill up) (Incl VAT) £132

Labour 3hrs Incl VAT) £108.00

Why do we pay VAT on Labour, is another rant altogether.

TOTAL £503.48

Morale of the story is don't use a Ford dealer ship unless you really have to.

However I still have the 'Engine Systems Fault light' on my dashboard display, with no warnings behind it, any ideas?

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However I still have the 'Engine Systems Fault light' on my dashboard display, with no warnings behind it, any ideas?

Not ever had a DPF fail on me so not 100%, but I would have had the independent fit the new DPF and shopped around Ford dealers to do the eloys top up. That way the Ford dealership would have cleared the engine fault message, along with resetting the eloys "dose the fuel tank" counter.

So now you need to send the wife or girlfriend into a dealership, wearing a push up and out bra concealed behind a low cut top. Then tell her to cross her arms and rest her elbows on the service counter top. Look the young man behind the counter straight in the eyes, and ask if he could be a love and get someone to reset the engine management system, it's a hand held job so no big deal really. :D

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However I still have the 'Engine Systems Fault light' on my dashboard display, with no warnings behind it, any ideas?

I would have had the independent fit the new DPF and shopped around Ford dealers to do the eloys top up. That way the Ford dealership would have cleared the engine fault message, along with resetting the eloys "dose the fuel tank" counter.

So now you need to send the wife or girlfriend into a dealership, wearing a push up and out bra concealed behind a low cut top. Then tell her to cross her arms and rest her elbows on the service counter top. Look the young man behind the counter straight in the eyes, and ask if he could be a love and get someone to reset the engine management system, it's a hand held job so no big deal really. :D So chances are she may get it done at no cost.

I say that because I needed my remote resetting after replacing the battery. Guy behind the service counter came out to the car and tried the remote reset sequence I'd tried about ten times [to no avail] So booked it in for the afternoon. I took it in and waited for it, ten minutes later he brought me my remote key back, sorted and no charge. By the way I'm an old !Removed! of a bloke, so I'm sure a pretty face :rolleyes: would work wonders

Either way you have still saved mega money having had it done by an independent.

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As long as the ELOYS fluid tank wasnt empty and just needed a top up, you can reset the additive module yourself, plenty of info about it on net.

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As long as the ELOYS fluid tank wasnt empty and just needed a top up, you can reset the additive module yourself, plenty of info about it on net.

If that is the case why not back your statement up with a live link to said info?

Because on cut/pasting your remark with the edition of the word ELOYS into Google "reset the ELOYS additive module yourself" it returned THE FOLLOWING

So come on it's "put money were mouth is time" :P

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I love folks who cant be bothered to search for their own info, one of the links is in this very forum, however because I feel kind of sorry for you I will do better than post a link I will WRITE the information down for you, so now I put my money down are you going to try the same too?

For this to work the MIL or PCL must not be lit for either a low fluid or empty additive tank. The name of the module is ASM.

Ensure the Ignition switch is in position 0 and the fuel filler flap is closed. The following steps must be completed within 60 seconds of the ignition switch being turned to position 2.

Turn igniton to position 2

open and close the fuel filler flap 2 times

turn the ignition to position 0

turn the ignition to position 2

open and close the fuel filler flap 3 times

wait 15 seconds

open and close the fuel filler flap 3 times

within 60 seconds start the engine and allow to idle for at least 20 seconds

After about 25 seconds the MIL or PCL light should illuminate

this tells you the sequence was done correctly

turn the ignition switch to 0 then to position 2 there should be no MIL or PCL on.

There you go I did mine 1st time. Now pay up or keep quiet about something you have no idea about :)

God natt og lykke

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Fire - not to !Removed! on your strawberrys here but you would be the only person this works for. ive personally seen a few posts/threads on this very forum saying they tried what you mentioned above to no avail. they have all had to go to ford or find a holder of the Ford VCM/IDS and reset the counter via that. im buying the Ford VCM/IDS for £290 within the next 2 months and i will confirm this to you by a useful little video showing the reset procedure i will make and will upload on youtube.

on another note, if that method worked it will be just the ford focus i know this to work on, by your word only. the ford focus uses PSA engines and every single car of theirs has to go to a dealer/holder of planet/lexia and have the counters reset. this method is carried right across the manufacturer range.

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Thats ok fella, you can !Removed! on my strawberries if you like. As I said I did all my own work, I did try to reset the ASM using a Launch diagnostic system, but it couldnt, and so with a little digging I found that method and it worked! I know its a PSA engine, which surprises me as usually the PSA group design good reliable power plants. My problem isnt with the engine or the car, but the damn dealer, and Ford themselves. Still thankfully I won't have this one much longer.

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I love folks who cant be bothered to search for their own info, one of the links is in this very forum, however because I feel kind of sorry for you.................................

There you go I did mine 1st time. Now pay up or keep quiet about something you have no idea about :)

God natt og lykke

Still omitted to post a live link to a verifiable source then.

And as to being too idle to do my own research, I think my input on this forum will prove your opinion to be wide of the mark.

Posted Today, 09:35 AM

Thats ok fella, you can !Removed! on my strawberries if you like

You say that, but as seen above it ain't OK to question you is it?

All I will say is this, I [and I suspect the majority of peeps on the forum] would not have seen my original reply to your post as being personally offensive. Besides it had a tongue in cheek smiley added, in case you communication skills were lacking............which obviously in hindsight .......

As a side note, on migrating to a new ISP, BT Wholesale Broadband disconnected my internet connection in the early hours of Friday 5th August and did not connect me to my new ISP until mid morning Friday 19th August. Meaning as you joined the forum on the 5th I'd missed most of your content....................

Of course I always look for the silver lining in any dark cloud that appears on the horizon......So that said, may I wish you well in your speedy future non Ford purchase

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!Removed! hell it's kicked off. :P

I have since disconnected the battery overnight to no avail.

It looks like I will have to go to the dealer with it.

Thanks Catch your posts have been invaluable.

I will post any findings.

Thanks everyone. :)

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EDITED

opps I posted a reply to the wrong person....silly me :o

Yep you will need a dealer reset mate

Did you try the open the fuel filler cap three times, pull your !Removed! once solution that was posted earlier :D :P

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EDITED

opps I posted a reply to the wrong person....silly me :o

Yep you will need a dealer reset mate

Did you try the open the fuel filler cap three times, pull your !Removed! once solution that was posted earlier :D :P

No i did not as the red warning light is also on. From memory it states clearly not to bother trying if the light is on.

Feel free to correct me if I'm talking bullocks (mispelt intentionally) :rolleyes:

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No i did not as the red warning light is also on. From memory it states clearly not to bother trying if the light is on.

Feel free to correct me if I'm talking bullocks (mispelt intentionally) :rolleyes:

I was only joking......... never having seen those particular pearls of wisdom.

Mind you I did ask for a link after Googling brought up a blank, but I just got some cocky slaver posted back. Could you provide a link to where you read it?

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dont know how true this is but iv been told if u re-map a turbo deisel focus "and maybe other cars" it basically doesnt require the DPF and if u got problems with ur DPF like me it might be worth having a re-map which could save a packet and there's the added extra of more power and better fuel consumption, dont how true this is so just wondered if anyone else knows if this is true.

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here it is, I CANNOT VERIFY IF THIS WORKS I HAVE NOT ATTEMPTED IT.

Seems a bit of a faff.

Sorry Catch, no mention of genitalia anywhere :P

NOTE: This procedure must only be carried out if the vehicle has reached the recommended additive filling service interval, with the additive tank level being above the low or empty level with the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) and powertrain control lamp (PCL) not illuminated.

NOTE: The fuel additive system service reset procedure will exit the resetting mode automatically if the following tasks are not completed within the specified time limit.

NOTE: The following procedure must be read through and completely understood before attempting the fuel additive system service reset procedure.

NOTE: Make sure the ignition switch is in position 0.

NOTE: The following sequence must be started within 60 seconds after the ignition key has been switched to position II.

NOTE: Make sure the fuel filler flap is closed.

Turn the ignition switch to position II.

Open and close the fuel filler flap.

Open and close the fuel filler flap.

Turn the ignition switch to position 0.

Turn the ignition switch to position II.

NOTE: The following sequence must be started within 60 seconds of the ignition switch being turned to position II.

NOTE: The following sequence must be completed within 10 seconds after the fuel filler flap has been opened.

Open and close the fuel filler flap.

Open and close the fuel filler flap.

Open and close the fuel filler flap.

NOTE: The following sequence must be started within 15 to 30 seconds after the fuel filler flap has been closed.

NOTE: The following sequence must be completed within 10 seconds after the fuel filler flap has been opened.

Open and close the fuel filler flap.

Open and close the fuel filler flap.

Open and close the fuel filler flap.

NOTE: The following sequence must be carried out within 60 seconds of the fuel filler flap being closed.

NOTE: Make sure the vehicle is in netural.

Start the engine.

NOTE: Allow the engine to idle (min 20 seconds).

NOTE: After approximately 25 seconds the PCL lamp will illuminate to indicate the resetting has been achieved.

Allow the engine to idle.

NOTE: Check the PCL lamp for illumination. If the PCL lamp is illuminated continue with the procedure. If the PCL lamp is not illuminated repeat the procedure and test the system.

Turn the ignition switch to position 0.

Turn the ignition switch to position II.

NOTE: Check the PCL lamp for illumination. If the PCL lamp is not illuminated the fuel additive service reset procedure has been completed. If the PCL lamp is illuminated repeat the procedure and test the system.

Turn the ignition switch to position 0.

©Copyright, Ford Motor Company 1994 - 2010

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Still no live link posted.....sigh, so I cut paste some of the above into Google and found the thread on this forum DPF Fluiid I mean what was hard about posting an actual live link :rolleyes:

Anyway on reading the thread the method is reputed to have come from a Hayes Manual, so we appear to have two peeps on this forum who say it has worked for them, one on that thread and one on this thread. Very little else on the web, the procedure copy pasted on handful of sites, but not read anybody coming back saying it worked for them. Obviously I'm no longer a subscribing member on FFOC so I cannot say if peeps over there are saying it works. Given the peeps out there faced with this reset problem, you would have thought it would been more widely reported on the web.

That said it is stated that if the Eloy's tank is empty then it wont work at all................

So I suppose it's worth a try if your Eloys tank ain't empty, but due it's 37.5k top up, or after a DPF replacement......nothing ventured nothing gained as they say.

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OK so as promised I said I would update this thread.

I went to another Ford dealer, this one closer to work to get the 'Engine Systems Failure' warning cleared.

I got charged a sum of £82, to clear the codes. Which ain't bad considering I was quoted £1500, and all in I paid just under £600 using independent garage and fraud dealer to clear code.

However I did manage to blag the screen prints the receptionist was looking at, so thought it may be helpful to someone in the future.

See the three attachments.

Once again great thread and thanks for all the comments.

Now there's just the judder, stutter at low revs to sort out, but from what I hear it's likely to be soot build up in the EGR.post-25802-0-37666600-1315322640_thumb.j

post-25802-0-88201900-1315322683_thumb.j

post-25802-0-75766000-1315322770_thumb.j

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  • 5 months later...

Hey guys,

First you will have to excuse my English, ... not a native

This is an old post i know, but i know that many of you as we do here in Romania, have a lot of issues with DPFs. So i've posted on and old post a lot more info (ford focus 1.6 tdci dpf problems) about emulators. and i would like to post some more here if any is interested :

1) There are emulators that can be fitted to fool the sensors, and in this case you can remove the ceramic part of the DPF, leaving the cat instact. This is what i have done to my car (1.6 tdci), and it works perfectly (Passed MOT here in Romania at least)

2) Eolys 176 fluid has been replaced by Infineum 955. The good thing about it is that instead on 75k miles, it will prolong DPF life to 150k miles. And if you think about it, buying a new car and running it for 150k miles before replacing the filter is quite good.

3) As i said in the other post : DPF only filter particles bigger then 1000 uMicrons, that represent about 3% of the smoke. So they filter 99% of 3%, so they are useless.

4) If you drive your car mainly around town (and i only drive it like that), your DPF will clog very fast.

5) You can wash it using a pressure hose and some good cleaning detergent, BUT this way you ruin some of the chemical components in it, so you would have to to this about every 4-5 weeks.

6) When your DPF clogs up, you should run your car at a steady speed, running at least at 2500 rpm, for about 20-30 minutes, you will notice that cooling fan will run in 2nd speed, and there should be white smoke comming of your exhaust.

7) Not Related to DPF but still very important : CommonRail engnes, and especially injectors don't like adittives, so any kind of aditives that you use will NOT do you any good. Please read about it, the less aditives you use, the better it is. The only thing proven to work as an "aditive" is MOL dynamic garden 2T. What this does is actualy take care of your injectors, and silence them :), Since i've been using this (200ml in a full tank) the injector rattle at cold start stoped, the engine is more smooth. This is something discovered to be working by someone on Volvo forums, that works for Boch, and since then (3-4 years) they have great results with it on Volvo cars with 1.6, amd 2.0 PSA engines (as ours). You will have to make sure in has JASO FC norms.

If anyone care to use google translate for this :

I would recomend reading the first 2 PDFs posted, they are in english and you will see a lot of differences there, and exacly what i am talking about.

As a side note : Here in Romania, the standard of living is poor, so we have to think about methods like this :), they are proven here and i don't care that you believe me or not, but keep in mind that "diesel engines" were first created to run on oil, not diesel. Google it. The difference is that diesel has a slightly bigger cetanic number, so think before you act, and also keep in mind that rtying something new is always hard but not neccesarly bad ;) and if you car and you will be happier, why not. Also i hope i was able to help a few a view.

Be safe.

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