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ahodgett

Ford Focus Saloon 10/06 Boot

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Help! How do I get the boot open? I have crawled into the boot from the car, taken off trim and everything looks beautifully clean, no sign of water or rust. The boot lock seems to have no manual release at all. Pulling off the wiring plug sets off the alarm. The plug has 4 wires going into it. The wires from passenger side to drivers side are 12v all the time, nothing, nothing, and 12v when double pulsing the key fob. So a signal is getting to the boot lock unit from the fob. The lock is held on by 3 Torx screws. Any suggestions very welcome as to what to do next?

Regards

Arthur Hodgett

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Check the boot release switch again as it can get stuck, happened on mine. Also check the fuse for the switch is not blown.

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Check the boot release switch again as it can get stuck, happened on mine. Also check the fuse for the switch is not blown.

Sadly this one has no means of mechanical release that I can see, it relies entirely on the fob or boot switch. Anyway have taken out the 3 Torx screws, removed the wired plug and pushed the boot lid off the lock, leaving the lock attached to the car. Stripped the lock in situ to release it. Stripped it down and the little electric motor has a melted com !!! It's a Johnson motor with two numbers on it, 20278 and 3E4668. However searching Johnson's web site comes up with nothing. It's probably less than a fiver's worth as well. I can't wait to see th ecost of a new unit !!

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here is a diagram that should help you

post-2425-128665546448_thumb.jpg

(unit 79 is the tail lock)

(unit 88 is the tail lock switch)

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here is a diagram that should help you

post-2425-128665546448_thumb.jpg

(unit 79 is the tail lock)

(unit 88 is the tail lock switch)

Thanks for the diagram, I saw it in the Haynes manual, and it helped me to realise the fault must be in the tailgate lock. Anyway better news! Browsing the ST forum, one contributor mentioned that someone on eb*y was selling the little motors, so hopefully one will be winging its way to me shortly, for just over the £5. This lock has apparently been superceded by a new model, but I'll try the motor first.

Thanks again

Arthur

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Thanks for the diagram, I saw it in the Haynes manual, and it helped me to realise the fault must be in the tailgate lock. Anyway better news! Browsing the ST forum, one contributor mentioned that someone on eb*y was selling the little motors, so hopefully one will be winging its way to me shortly, for just over the £5. This lock has apparently been superceded by a new model, but I'll try the motor first.

Thanks again

Arthur

do you have a part number for the motor that is bad. I seem to have the exact same issue where I have to press the switch at the back for 5 times before it opens and then every night I get the trunk light showing up on my dashboard.

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do you have a part number for the motor that is bad. I seem to have the exact same issue where I have to press the switch at the back for 5 times before it opens and then every night I get the trunk light showing up on my dashboard.

Yes it has arrived this morning and looks exactly correct. All I have to do is fit the gear wheel onto the splined shaft and check it rotates the correct direction. The part number is FC-280PT-20150 item number on that site 220676332659 seller mcamp1on. Will post further details as things go.

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seems as tho this is a very common problem, mainly on fords with no manual boot release. I have a 05 Ford Focus Saloon titaium and the boot wouldnt unlock on sunday just after id finished my round of golf...which was !Removed! annoying cos had to fit all my golf gear onto the back seat! Googled the problem when i got in and there are many threads on this website and others reguarding boot release issues on Focuses. The following day, seemingly for no reason, the boot release now works doing the usual double tap of the boot unlock button on the fob. Have tried it several times since then and has worked every time. But im now worried that everytime i put something in the boot that i wont actually be able to get it out (unless i put the back seats down).

Also it says in the manual that if the car is unlocked you can manually unlock the boot by pressing the switch which is located between the two lights which are just above ya registration plate. I have tried this but it doesnt seem to unlock the boot. Has anyone out there managed to unlock their boot by using this switch (when the car is unlocked)???

Why the hell didnt Ford put a key lock on the boot so could be opened in the usual way as awell as using the fob grrrrr

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seems as tho this is a very common problem, mainly on fords with no manual boot release. I have a 05 Ford Focus Saloon titaium and the boot wouldnt unlock on sunday just after id finished my round of golf...which was !Removed! annoying cos had to fit all my golf gear onto the back seat! Googled the problem when i got in and there are many threads on this website and others reguarding boot release issues on Focuses. The following day, seemingly for no reason, the boot release now works doing the usual double tap of the boot unlock button on the fob. Have tried it several times since then and has worked every time. But im now worried that everytime i put something in the boot that i wont actually be able to get it out (unless i put the back seats down).

Also it says in the manual that if the car is unlocked you can manually unlock the boot by pressing the switch which is located between the two lights which are just above ya registration plate. I have tried this but it doesnt seem to unlock the boot. Has anyone out there managed to unlock their boot by using this switch (when the car is unlocked)???

Why the hell didnt Ford put a key lock on the boot so could be opened in the usual way as awell as using the fob grrrrr

The boot switch is electrical and needs the same little electric motor as the fob uses to unlock the boot. If the motor I sourced on that site works, I will buy a couple as I keep cars a long time!! I think a key operator would have been quite easy to do, but it saves a few pence on construction costs. The little lever the motor pushes, could be pushed also by a rod if one had been suitably designed.

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The boot switch is electrical and needs the same little electric motor as the fob uses to unlock the boot. If the motor I sourced on that site works, I will buy a couple as I keep cars a long time!! I think a key operator would have been quite easy to do, but it saves a few pence on construction costs. The little lever the motor pushes, could be pushed also by a rod if one had been suitably designed.

So I can see how the motor will get the trunk open but what about the dash showing the trunk open light? what is the fix for that problem?

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Well, I've finally fixed it. The original motor from ebay was correct in all aspects except rotation. The chap on ebay has managed to get me the correct one which rotates clockwise when viewed from gear end. (From the circuit diagram, I believe reversing polarity would harm the electronics from which the signal comes, as the microswitch is fed from the 12v feed as well.) A very small flat jewellers screwdriver inserted in the plastic clips easily splits the plastic actuator in half. (Take a picture of the actuator lever and spring in case it comes out so you can put it back together)

You will need a little puller to get the original brass gear off the old motor. I used one designed for gear wheels on N gauge train wheels. Just to make sure there were no problems I took the top off the splines on the shaft and pushed the gear on using a vice and small nut to get the gear wheel into the correct position.

Assemble the actiator back onto the mechanical lock with the mechanical lock locked. After assembly unlock the lock with a small screwdriver, prior to fitting. (Actuator goes on easier with lock locked)

With the actuator off, the console shows boot open warning permanently, until you nearly run out of petrol. Somehow the boot light is also controlled by this circuitry.

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Well, I've finally fixed it. The original motor from ebay was correct in all aspects except rotation. The chap on ebay has managed to get me the correct one which rotates clockwise when viewed from gear end. (From the circuit diagram, I believe reversing polarity would harm the electronics from which the signal comes, as the microswitch is fed from the 12v feed as well.) A very small flat jewellers screwdriver inserted in the plastic clips easily splits the plastic actuator in half. (Take a picture of the actuator lever and spring in case it comes out so you can put it back together)

You will need a little puller to get the original brass gear off the old motor. I used one designed for gear wheels on N gauge train wheels. Just to make sure there were no problems I took the top off the splines on the shaft and pushed the gear on using a vice and small nut to get the gear wheel into the correct position.

Assemble the actiator back onto the mechanical lock with the mechanical lock locked. After assembly unlock the lock with a small screwdriver, prior to fitting. (Actuator goes on easier with lock locked)

With the actuator off, the console shows boot open warning permanently, until you nearly run out of petrol. Somehow the boot light is also controlled by this circuitry.

I cut my wires and reversed it to make it turn in the correct direction. Unfortunately I still have the problem where I have to press the button 3-4 times to make the trunk open and my trunk open light shows up on the dashboard every night. Any one with a fix for this?

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I cut my wires and reversed it to make it turn in the correct direction. Unfortunately I still have the problem where I have to press the button 3-4 times to make the trunk open and my trunk open light shows up on the dashboard every night. Any one with a fix for this?

I considered reversing the polarity of the wires, but decided against it for the reasons you have found. The boot open switch and other things come off the non earth side, (There seems to be a sensor of some kind to detect position embedded with the switch). By reversing the polarity you put these to earth, causing all sorts of problems. Because I've fiddled with the loom so much, occasionally turning on the side lights operates the boot, so I've obviouly got a short somewhere in the loom to find. It doesn't rain but it pours. I've noticed the loom goes over sharp edges without protection, so will wait for better weather to sort. (We've nearly 2 feet of snow here at the moment.)

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I considered reversing the polarity of the wires, but decided against it for the reasons you have found. The boot open switch and other things come off the non earth side, (There seems to be a sensor of some kind to detect position embedded with the switch). By reversing the polarity you put these to earth, causing all sorts of problems. Because I've fiddled with the loom so much, occasionally turning on the side lights operates the boot, so I've obviouly got a short somewhere in the loom to find. It doesn't rain but it pours. I've noticed the loom goes over sharp edges without protection, so will wait for better weather to sort. (We've nearly 2 feet of snow here at the moment.)

Hope you got over the snow problem, we dont worry about those things in Barbados as we see snow every year without fail (on tv that is).

Have you gotten a fix to this problem with the boot? I refuse to have the dealers fix it as the quote from them is 600bds (300usd) just to check it and then say what parts I might need.

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Hope you got over the snow problem, we dont worry about those things in Barbados as we see snow every year without fail (on tv that is).

Have you gotten a fix to this problem with the boot? I refuse to have the dealers fix it as the quote from them is 600bds (300usd) just to check it and then say what parts I might need.

No, not yet, it's been minus a few degrees for a month, we just have to remember to shut the boot before locking the car. I don't get boot open message, so boot is actualy closed, just unlocked. Am waiting for a bit warmer weather, maybe I should bring the car to Barbados to investigate!!

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I have still not got my boot lock fixed and the boot remained shut for a long time......but a few weeks ago i randomly tried the fob to unlock it and it worked! So while i had it open i sprayed a load of WD40 directly into the lock, that seems to have done it the world of good. id say that it opens 85% of the time now......so still not perfect but better than it was. But i expect a lot of you guys have tried this with your boot locks and had no luck?

The reason i havnt got it fixed is because im aiming to get the CAM belt, water pump (and possibily the EGR valve) replaced in early March, which are all way more important parts to get sorted before the boot lock. My focus has nearly done 93,000 miles so i desperatly need to get a new CAM belt fitted! maybe after that i'll send it in to get a new boot lock fitted

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I have still not got my boot lock fixed and the boot remained shut for a long time......but a few weeks ago i randomly tried the fob to unlock it and it worked! So while i had it open i sprayed a load of WD40 directly into the lock, that seems to have done it the world of good. id say that it opens 85% of the time now......so still not perfect but better than it was. But i expect a lot of you guys have tried this with your boot locks and had no luck?

The reason i havnt got it fixed is because im aiming to get the CAM belt, water pump (and possibily the EGR valve) replaced in early March, which are all way more important parts to get sorted before the boot lock. My focus has nearly done 93,000 miles so i desperatly need to get a new CAM belt fitted! maybe after that i'll send it in to get a new boot lock fitted

The EGR valve is a pig to get at, but it costs nothing to strip and clean, no gaskets etc. With mine I find it sticks open occasionally after a while. I intend to take it off again, now its sticking again and relieve it slightly on the end open to atmosphere as I think it may have a burr on it. I suspect a new one plus fitting you won't get much change out of £500 sterling.

Stripping the boot lock and cleaning the mechanism is fairly straight forward, just make sure you put the plastic actuator on in exactly the same position/orientation as you took it off. That's if you need to take the actuator off.

You got me thinking now about my cam belt, I think mine is not a fibre belt, as I can't find reference to changing it in the manual. Mine is a 2 litre Diesel 2006.

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Sorry im going off topic a bit here, the reason I am thinking of getting new EGR Valve is because ive suffered a sudden loss of power twice in the last 4 weeks…..So far this has only happened twice since ive had the car (bought it in sep last year, has 92k on the clock). Go to pull away from a junction in 1st gear but the revs wont go above 600-700….if you push accelorator hard the revs do slowly climb but not enough to get out of 1st. Both times this has happened ive manged to pull over….switch the engine off then on again and all is ok. No engine management light comes on either.

EGR valve seems the most likely culprit. Ive heard that just giving the EGR Valve a tap with a hammer can sort it too, if its just sooted up? I didn’t realise a new one plus fitting would cost that much….gona have to investigate taking it off myself and cleaning it. Have read on other car forums that the type of loss of power im describing is usually down to the EGR. Would a local independent garage take it off for me and clean it? If so how much do u reckon that would cost?

Also the last time It suffered this loss of power was on Friday night…and for the whole week leading up to this I was trying to drive as economically as humanly possible to see what I could get my MPG up to…do you think that a full week of driving trying to keep the revs as close to 1000 at all times has maybe sooted up the valve? After all it is 2.0TDCI (134BHP model) and they do need to be given a blast now and again…right?

In terms of my CAM belt…i don’t really wana risk going over 95k….its done 92k now…I know Ford recommend 100k and some people even leave it as late 130k but I don’t wana risk it. So at the moment my main priority is getting the CAM belt done in March. Any rough idea how much that will cost me (also with a new water pump too)? Im not sure if mine is a belt or a chain either, will look in the manual tonight!

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Sorry im going off topic a bit here, the reason I am thinking of getting new EGR Valve is because ive suffered a sudden loss of power twice in the last 4 weeks…..So far this has only happened twice since ive had the car (bought it in sep last year, has 92k on the clock). Go to pull away from a junction in 1st gear but the revs wont go above 600-700….if you push accelorator hard the revs do slowly climb but not enough to get out of 1st. Both times this has happened ive manged to pull over….switch the engine off then on again and all is ok. No engine management light comes on either.

EGR valve seems the most likely culprit. Ive heard that just giving the EGR Valve a tap with a hammer can sort it too, if its just sooted up? I didn’t realise a new one plus fitting would cost that much….gona have to investigate taking it off myself and cleaning it. Have read on other car forums that the type of loss of power im describing is usually down to the EGR. Would a local independent garage take it off for me and clean it? If so how much do u reckon that would cost?

Also the last time It suffered this loss of power was on Friday night…and for the whole week leading up to this I was trying to drive as economically as humanly possible to see what I could get my MPG up to…do you think that a full week of driving trying to keep the revs as close to 1000 at all times has maybe sooted up the valve? After all it is 2.0TDCI (134BHP model) and they do need to be given a blast now and again…right?

In terms of my CAM belt…i don’t really wana risk going over 95k….its done 92k now…I know Ford recommend 100k and some people even leave it as late 130k but I don’t wana risk it. So at the moment my main priority is getting the CAM belt done in March. Any rough idea how much that will cost me (also with a new water pump too)? Im not sure if mine is a belt or a chain either, will look in the manual tonight!

Don't know about costs of other items, but the EGR is over £200, plus fitting. It took me about 4 hours the first time, but hopefully less the next. It an aluminium casting, so would be careful with hammer. Squirting WD40 in under the black plastic cover might get easing to the right place, to keep you going, haven't tried it. If it wasn't right at the back of the engine under the windscreen wipers, it would be an easy job. If you do try it, ignore the bit about splitting the pipe joint, which has a crimped seal, it's easier to undo it with the bolts at both ends. Not sure whether a good clean, remove any burrs and not lubricate would be better, you have nothing then to carburise. What do the experts think, I wonder?

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I have still not got my boot lock fixed and the boot remained shut for a long time......but a few weeks ago i randomly tried the fob to unlock it and it worked! So while i had it open i sprayed a load of WD40 directly into the lock, that seems to have done it the world of good. id say that it opens 85% of the time now......so still not perfect but better than it was. But i expect a lot of you guys have tried this with your boot locks and had no luck?

The reason i havnt got it fixed is because im aiming to get the CAM belt, water pump (and possibily the EGR valve) replaced in early March, which are all way more important parts to get sorted before the boot lock. My focus has nearly done 93,000 miles so i desperatly need to get a new CAM belt fitted! maybe after that i'll send it in to get a new boot lock fitted

Its common for the boot trim to let water inside the boot (above where the number plate is). So when its really cold this water will freeze and your boot switch wont work. Most of the time the fob will still release it though. Try removing the trim inside the boot and having a look to see whats going on. If its that trim that is leaking them slacken it off, seal it and then tighten it back up.

Mine let water in and I ended up having to replace the switch. It wasn't much money and is easy enough to replace.

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I considered reversing the polarity of the wires, but decided against it for the reasons you have found. The boot open switch and other things come off the non earth side, (There seems to be a sensor of some kind to detect position embedded with the switch). By reversing the polarity you put these to earth, causing all sorts of problems. Because I've fiddled with the loom so much, occasionally turning on the side lights operates the boot, so I've obviouly got a short somewhere in the loom to find. It doesn't rain but it pours. I've noticed the loom goes over sharp edges without protection, so will wait for better weather to sort. (We've nearly 2 feet of snow here at the moment.)

After reading this again I just realised you answered my question about the trunk open light. How did you go about getting a motor that turns in the correct direction without have to cut and reverse wires? can you modify one of the motors that turn in the wrong direction to make it work properly? I have decided I will not allow the dealers to fix this one so however long it takes I will be fixing this myself.

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hi folks, hoping "ahodgett" and "dicodread" are still on the forum or anyone else who has the same problem.

ford focus sedan 2005 built in south africa......the boot motor is playing up.......part number johnson 20278 362366..........i ordered spare motors from canada mabuchi fc-280pt-20150.... physically the same and correct voltage

BUT wrong direction.......the existing motor viewed from the gear end turns anti-clockwise......the new motors turn clockwise .....bugger.......does anyone know where i can buy these little motors that turn anti-clockwise?

impossible to change their direction as they seat into a moulded frame.......any help very much appreciated folks.....thankyou for reading my topic.......any info please e-mail to john.kane@bristile.com.au (ps waited 3 months to get those little motors ,,,,damm)

Edited by nevergiveup

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hi folks, hoping "ahodgett" and "dicodread" are still on the forum or anyone else who has the same problem.

ford focus sedan 2005 built in south africa......the boot motor is playing up.......part number johnson 20278 362366..........i ordered spare motors from canada mabuchi fc-280pt-20150.... physically the same and correct voltage

BUT wrong direction.......the existing motor viewed from the gear end turns anti-clockwise......the new motors turn clockwise .....bugger.......does anyone know where i can buy these little motors that turn anti-clockwise?

impossible to change their direction as they seat into a moulded frame.......any help very much appreciated folks.....thankyou for reading my topic.......any info please e-mail to john.kane@bristile.com.au (ps waited 3 months to get those little motors ,,,,damm)

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I got the reverse direction as well but I wrote the seller and he send a link for the motor with the correct direction.

Sad to say however that did not solve my problem. After 6 months of trying everything I was willing to do myself, I eventually went to the dealers and told them fix it. The solution ended up an electrical problem inside the car itself so now the trunk open light doesnt come on at nights anymore when I am driving.

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