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jmurray01

Cam Belt Change On A 1.25 Zetec-Se

   8 members have voted

  1. 1. How easy is it for a DIY mechanic to change a 1.25 Zetec-SE cam belt ?

    • Easy Peasy! Just like changing a hoover belt!
      0
    • Kind of hard, if you know your way around an engine you can do it fine, if not, prepare to ruin your car!
      6
    • Very hard. Only do it if you have done it before successfully!
      0
    • Don't even try! Get a garage to do it. It is worth the £200-300.
      2

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11 posts in this topic

Well since our Rover 200 decided to give up the ghost (Head Gasket went a few days ago, stupid K-Series!) we are putting the good ole reliable Fiesta back on the road again (booked in for it's MOT on Thursday).

Although Haynes says you can wait until 100,000 miles, the belt is over 11 years old so it doesn't matter that it is only at 72,350.

Only being a wee 1.25 I'm guessing it is quite easy (even for an DIY mechanic like myself) to change ?

I'm not saying I will change it, as it might seem to daunting when the time comes, but if I knew how to do it, I might attempt it!!

So if anyone knows a thread already posted, or could post a reply telling me (with pictures please!) how to change the cam belt, that would be really great!

Oh and incase anyone was wondering I'm still getting the Fiesta when I'm 17, as in about a year the Rover will be getting a new HG!

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Since Nobody else will reply hmm this sounds familiar like when i ask questions everyone ignores us.

As long as you can keep the two cams in the same position and change both the belt and tensioner you will be fine.

Jamie

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Thanks Jamie.

Why are people ignoring us!?!?

I'm assuming the tensioner can be removed by just taking the bolt off fully ?

If somebody had a picture of the tensioner it would help as I don't know exactly what it looks like, only what it does!

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You mentioning the Haynes manual reminded me I think I have one for the Fiesta knocking around somewhere, so I'll dig it out and have a read!

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You mentioning the Haynes manual reminded me I think I have one for the Fiesta knocking around somewhere, so I'll dig it out and have a read!

definetly worth a read, although everything sounds easy in a manual.

you will need a locking kit to hold the cams in place (less than £20?)

not that its a criticism or anything, i just noticed your not even 17 yet?

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Yep, but you're never too young to start!!

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Yep, but you're never too young to start!!

cant argue with that..

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Only being a wee 1.25 I'm guessing it is quite easy (even for an DIY mechanic like myself) to change ?

Oh and incase anyone was wondering I'm still getting the Fiesta when I'm 17, as in about a year the Rover will be getting a new HG!

The important thing here is that size does not matter.

Some of the bigger engines have cam belts that are a doddle to change. Some have engines that are not damaged if the cam belt fails and some do not use cam belts. Your problem is that get it wrong and you are in for the cost of a new engine.

Bite the bullet and as the head gasket is up for replacement soon, do it early and the cam belt at the same time and also the water pump.

This is the problem with older cars. They may be cheaper to buy but are more expensive to maintain. Sort of catch 22 really.

Do not attempt it yourself unless you can cover the cost of a new engine if all goes wrong.

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hi

check with your dealer as i thought about changing my cam belt when i had the mk4 but was told it had a cam chain and did not need doing:)

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Since Nobody else will reply hmm this sounds familiar like when i ask questions everyone ignores us.

As long as you can keep the two cams in the same position and change both the belt and tensioner you will be fine.

Jamie

The twin-cam engines changed to an elastic belt, shoe-horned onto the pulleys, using plastic tools provided in the kit. This, I believe co-incided with the change to bucket & shim tappets, and better oil-ways when the Mk 6 came in. Before that, tappets were hydraulic, oil-ways were narrow, and oil-spec was stringent. Also, the cam-belt had an adjustable tensioner pulley, which could be renewed. So, with those early engines, the belt could be slackened/tightened. The later ones had to be cut off, and fitting a new belt needed muscle and skill. Other tasks should also be done at these mileages. (other belts/water pump/oil pump/water thermostat/check air-con, antifreeze.)

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Well on my ecotec se 1.4 ther wasent anway to slacken old tensioner,just had to slide it off carefully,new tensioner did have the pin to lock it up, the aux/alternator belt is the stretch belt not the cambelt.I got that on n off with a screwdriver and gently levering it off as I turned engine by hand. Main thing is,crankpulley bolt! Tourque it up properly using a new bolt and threadlock,if u can get it off! If it winds out when running,as all pulleys are keyless,good bye valves with poss piston crown damage too.

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