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tone

Mk7 Gearbox Oil Change,

9 posts in this topic

Guys

My 2010 Fiesta has now done 30k miles and I'm looking to change the gearbox oil. The dealer informs me that its sealed for life. As we know no oil lasts forever, so I'm wondering has anybody done this or had it done. I've had a quick look underneath but I'm struggling to found the drain & refill plugs. I wouldn't be surprised if Ford haven't fitted them.

Tone

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I was told by the dealer that the gearbox was more or less sealed for life as well. My car is at 25k and 2nd gear keeps popping out on the over-run so this is why they couldnt fix it...apparently :ph34r:

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I was told by the dealer that the gearbox was more or less sealed for life as well. My car is at 25k and 2nd gear keeps popping out on the over-run so this is why they couldnt fix it...apparently :ph34r:

My gearbox started popping out of gear, only AFTER getting it looked at for baulky gear-changes, so I think they tinkered with the cables at the front black box on the gearbox, where the oil level plug hides. I recently had the oil changed for the correct stuff ;-- Castrol SMX-S, fully synthetic. the foul stuff that came out was clearly different, and was like MOTUL TECHNOSYNTHESE, part-synthetic, - blackish, rather than the golden Castrol. Check the price difference on OPIEOILS!!

My mechanic sucked the oil out via the reverse switch-hole, using small-bore plastic piping, coupled to an old-fashioned Diesel fuel-priming pump bulb, which has 2 one-way valves in it, and needs a lot of squeezing, as it is NOT a syphon. Took half an hour to empty, got >95% out, after being persistent prodding the pipe past gears. Refilling showed that I got almost all out, by the time overflow came out the level hole near the rubber bellows protecting the gear cables.

Gear-changing was instantly slick and quiet-running, with final-drive on the overrun being the only noise still present. The Castrol website still lists their oil as the spec. for the car. I did a search on this site, and found trade info, to the effect that Ford had down-specc'd their oil standards, but with our low winter temperatures, I need very good pour-point in sub-zero temperatures, and SMX-S can't be beaten, and GL5 oil is not good for helping synchro-cones work,--just too damned slippy,-- some friction needed there!

(P.S.-- I had to persuade the mechanic to go ahead and do the job, as he had spoken to a Ford mechanic, who said the oil wes fine, but I already had the oil and pipe/bulb assy, so don't sisten to Ford. The performance of the oil proves all.)

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i dont know about your gearbox but i know mine (IB5) has no drain plug but has a filler... it is not filled until it overflows like most gearboxes! it should be around 10mm below the filler level.

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i dont know about your gearbox but i know mine (IB5) has no drain plug but has a filler... it is not filled until it overflows like most gearboxes! it should be around 10mm below the filler level.

Yes, my IB5 'box in my Sept '58 Fiesta 1.25 Zetec, Mk 6.5, is exactly the same, as I was told by my dealer, when I gave them 2 days to check the 'box, ~3 months after delivery. They use an allen-key to dip-check the level, and that is what my local mechanic did after rapidly filling the 'box to brief overflow, followed by a settling period, then careful topping up to the tip of the "L" shaped key.

The dealer had the car during a mild spell, with 13 deg C ambient Temp. In my home town, 106 miles north of Inverness (my dealer's location), daily morning starts are more likely to be 2 Deg C. Yesterday at 4 pm the temp., was minus 1 deg C, and I drove 12 miles before I got real heat from the heater, and could back off on fan and water valve, as I came back into town, as I was toasty at the 30 MPH sign.

Obviously, checking the car's 'box at 13 Deg C, is useless for a baulkiness that is OK when warm, but the proper Castrol SMX-S fully synthetic oil suits the extreme cold much better, as you can appreciate if you look at the cold pour-point spec. for this oil. By the way, the Castrol oil is now GL3/4 spec., and GL5 is worth avoiding, where "yellow metal" components are involved, but I believe there are some good uses for it in 4WD's in transfer boxes and differentials.

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Hi Donframac

Thanks for the update, I'll be inspecting the little black box region this next week with rubber tube in hand etc.

Opie are not too far from me so I'll have to be paying them a visit. Do we know what the capacity of the box is.

Tone

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Hi Donframac

Thanks for the update, I'll be inspecting the little black box region this next week with rubber tube in hand etc.

Opie are not too far from me so I'll have to be paying them a visit. Do we know what the capacity of the box is.

Tone

The capacity of all IB5 'boxes is 2.3 Litres.

The poly-pipe I used is 9mm in dia., and fitted into a rubber pipe on the diesel primer-bulb. This red poly-pipe fitted fairly nicely down thro' the gears, via the largish hole that you get access to when you have unscrewed the reverse gear sensor switch (I presume you pull the electric flyer lead off it before unscrewing it.) The mechanic stoppen a few times, to flatten the pipe a bit, to get it to squeeze further past more gears, with more force applied. The prime was lost a few times, but was regained. All the oil collected was gathered in a white plastic drum, and helped to gauge when the 'box was M/T.

The Synthetic Castrol SMX-S, was then squeezed in rapidly, via the top-up hole near the gear selectors, until some overflow began. The reverse sensor and lead were refitted, then the allen-key dip-stick was used, and careful small topups made, until oil was 1cm below the bottom of the top-up hole. Refit the plug and the plastic boxing, after cleaning surplus oil. E.G. squirt some parraffin, and mop up with old rags.

P.S., I've just checked the Castrol I have left, and that shows 2.44 litres were used. His initial level check was the full 1cm below the overflow. The 'box was cold, and so was the used oil and the new. (my bottle shows 0.56 litres, and it is likely the mechanic didn't wait to drain the 2 full bottles fully, as he had spent ages pumping the old oil out, by squeeze-bulb.)

Halford's price has to be taken into account, VS the Opieoils price, minus club discount, + postage.

P.S., the plastic box uses no screws or bolts, just snap-fasteners.

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Hi Donframic

Thanks for the info its much appreciated I'll let you know how I go on.

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I used this post to change my gearbox oil on my school car which had approx 72k on the clock,definitely the gears felt more rough then my mk6 so changing oil was a must. Make sure the oil is 1cm below from the top of gearbox which gets put in from the reverse switch. As i must of done 1.5cm below and my box got a slight rattle. As i have now topped it up car has over 75k and runs soo smooth its unbelievable.i would definitely recommend an gearbox oil change my gearbox took about 2.8 litres because im guessing i sucked out most old oil.

Another topic id like to add is the engine oil i used was castrol 5w30 before that i used shell oil. These made extra unnecessary noises (i notice as im mostly in passenger side so can have a good listen out) last weekend i used formula f which the dealers sell and was amazed to realise that this is the correct oil as my car is so peaceful and sounds like it did when i first bought it when 10 months old.

So these are the two important steps id recommend to anyone who wants the car to be like it did when it first came out of showroom.

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