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Fix Durashift Gearbox Problem Easy.


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#61 T140v

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 04:13 PM

Thanks for posting this, it has been very helpfull in tracking down the fault in my Durashift fiesta, the ECU/clutch actiator was faulty so have removed it and had it repaired, any one know the correct procedure for bleeding the actuator and associated pipework have had a go using a pressurised system connected to the fluid reservoir and bled the fluid at the gearbox, got some air out but not sure I have it all as the car will not go into reverse ( gears are grating as if the clutch is not fully depressed) the car has the front wheels on ramps so dont want to try forward.

 

Regards Stuart



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#62 Dan62

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 04:34 PM

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#63 T140v

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 05:00 PM

Thanks Dan, tried in forward, could hear actuators working but would not go into gear then lost LCD gear indicator, had to unplug the ecu to get the lights back on and the car to start.

 

Regards Stuart



#64 Dan62

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 05:21 PM

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#65 T140v

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 05:16 PM

A happy conclusion to the durashift nightmare, had another go at bleeding the ecu/clutch actuator this afternoon removed battery etc for easy access to the bleed nippple and used a 50ml plastic syringe (removed 3 syringes of fluid out of the reservoir to make room) and some 6mm rubber petrol pipe, and forced the fluid in through the bleed nipple I could hear the air being moved round the system, when the syring was empty I shut the bleed valve untill another full syring was attached and opened up and emptied the syringe, did it one more time put averything back together started the car all lights came on then went out as they should  tried into forward went into 1st no problem, tried reverse, no probs so backed off the ramps.

Got the wife to test drive it as she uses it mostly, says its OK.

No thanks to Ford who wanted to charge me £1760 parts with no guarantee that it would work and charging me £80 to put it on the computer and not be able to identify the problem.

Thanks to www.ecu-testing.com who repaired my ECU/clutch actuator in a week and S&D transmissions Doncaster identifying the problem. 



#66 ejd663

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Posted 12 March 2014 - 12:29 PM

Hi,

Followed steps as instructed and hey presto it worked. Absolutely brilliant. I have no mechanical skills at all and managed to do this. I have a neighbour across the road this happened to and cost him £2000 from ford to have repaired. Mine cost price of lithium grease and an angled bit wrench (£15).

Remove battery holder first as it is much easier to get to everything.

Thanks



#67 Luddite

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Posted 04 October 2014 - 05:42 PM

Hi, I have a UK Ford Fusion, 1.4 Durashift, 2003 model. Initially the car stalled when decelerating from 4th gear. The car displayed 1 in the gear selector display and wouldn't start. However, we recovered it (so must have been in neutral) and I took out the Durashift gear actuators and cleaned them as per forum posts (thanks lasse1955).

The actuator assembly cleaned up OK and seems in quite a reasonable state as is the connected wiring harness (checked for cut wires and corrosion). Put the actuator back together and fitted but still no joy. The gear display is blank and I notice one of the actuators is constantly moving back and forwards (have left for 15 mins in case it was resetting) with the ignition on.

I took the car to a local garage and they advised received code: P0810 “clutch position error” from the Transmission Control Unit (TCU). The clutch was replaced (£600) and the car seemed to run fine yesterday… Although it seemed to be engaging the clutch too rapidly when cold as it stalled when moving off, possibly clutch bedding in... However I it tried today and getting exactly the same problem as before.

I believe the problem is likely to be the clutch actuator. Does anyone know of an exploded diagram of the unit as I’d like to inspect it, initially without disconnecting the hydraulics if possible... Or any other thoughts on what I could try as the bill for repair will soon exceed the value of the car. Many thanks.



#68 Lula

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 05:57 PM

Hi!
Firstly, big thanks for the walkthrough.
I am in the process of trying this now, i just have a couple of questions that maybe you or someone else who's tried this could help me with - 
 

 

I can have found and can remove all 4 of the bolts mounting the automator, as well as the two motor power cables. The only thing I wanted to be sure of before continuing, was removal of the bolt in the image below. It appears I would have to remove it before the whole assembly could be removed, but its fused on there and getting it off is going to be a pain. I'm worried about stripping it.

Does it have to be removed to get the automator off or will it slide off anyway?

Thanks for any help!! complete novice here.
 

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#69 T140v

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 06:23 PM

Evening Luke, if you move the rubber boot round the connection and have a look it is possible to disconnect this when the other 4 bolts have been removed the bolt that is seized just clamps the connection to the shaft. you need to move it about a bit to get it to disconnect but it goes back into position easier than it comes out.

 

Good luck.

Stuart



#70 Luddite

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 06:27 PM

Hi Luke, I didn't remove this bolt, once I pulled back the rubber cover the fitting popped out when I pulled the actuator away. The other thing I did was disconnect the ball joint (the fitting is black plastic in your photo). I did this by getting a screwdriver and levering it off. It snapped back on after refitting by using a pair of snipe nosed pliers. Another tip that made removal a lot easier was to remove the headlight, just 3 screws and unplug the connector, and the large pipe to the air filter. Hope that helps.

Quick update on my post of the 4th October... The Fusion is still in the garage, after contacting Ford / Transmission specialists, it appears the clutch actuator is likely to be at fault. The car is currently waiting for the actuator to be returned after being sent away to be reconditioned. I will post again if this finally resolves the fault.



#71 Lula

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 06:43 PM

Hey, that's just what I was hoping someone would say! great, thanks. I will report back with photos for other peoples benefit :)



#72 Luddite

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 09:58 AM

Last update from me. Clutch Acctuator was reconditioned by a specialist the garage engaged (£170.00), it had worn motor bushes and a lose connection. Car has now been working fine for a month so that was the problem. I'm not surprised as it's used for the school run and lots of short journeys, this would mean the actuator has had to work hard during it's lifetime.



#73 jeebowhite

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 10:00 AM

Fantastic news, so what was the total cost in money and time?

#74 Lula

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Posted 26 November 2014 - 03:30 PM

It turns out that the actuator rod wasn't likely to be my particular problem. It moved quite freely for me once removed from the car.

Although taking it apart gave me a chance to grease all the moving parts and check the motors (using the 12v from the battery). Maybe my problem was stiffness somewhere else in the actuator, much of it was rusty despite the plastic cover, so it may not have been a waste of time. If I continue to have problems i'll have a look at getting the clutch actuator serviced. (I understand this isn't an easy job?)

Anyone able to recommend someone in east london (im in E17) who wont rip me off for this?!
 

Further, does anyone know which exact transmission fluid I would need to change the fluid in this car, or where I can get it? The manual says to change it every 40k and i've done 90 without it being changed. Couldn't hurt and I understand its not very hard to do. Its manual transmission fluid as opposed to auto, right?

I've included some images I took during disassembly. I thought maybe they could help someone else with the same task. I obviously didn't need to bore out/sand the bushing at all, since the rod wasn't stuck and moved freely, so I just lightly greased it and reassembled.

In hindsight, this whole process could be done in less than an hour, although not having done it before, it took me about 3!

Thanks guys

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#75 Old Ford

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Posted 13 December 2014 - 06:55 PM

Thank you my durashift work jet as new. I hope for a long time. :)



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