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Car Starts Then Stalls


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#1 andy_1984

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Posted 01 March 2011 - 01:41 PM

searched this problem a lot but cant find anyone with the same problem i have.

parked my car up at night as usual then went to start it the next morning. it started fine but after a minute it cut out, no big deal i thought it had only ran out of petrol. i always let it get dangerously close to empty as it runs on lpg and petrol is used to heat the engine up to allow the lpg to switch on.

so i walked to the petrol station got 5 litres and filled the tank up in the car. turned ignition to II to allow the pump to do its thing then started the car. 10 seconds later it died again. i cranked once more but wouldnt even start this time so i left it for a few minutes and tried again. it started but another few seconds idling it died again!.

i checked to see if there was ony dtc codes and sure as hell i had 2. they are:
9318: battery low voltage - less than 10
9359: ignition run/acc circuit failure


one tip i picked up from searching through google was to check fuse 41 which ill need to wait till i get home later to check but anyone with these codes their car has actually been running and not stalling so im back here to see what the good people of foc have to say about it :)

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#2 andy_1984

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Posted 01 March 2011 - 02:12 PM

i should also note that i depressurise the fuel lines, tank etc by removing the fuel pump fuse and turning it over with no effect

#3 jeebowhite

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Posted 01 March 2011 - 02:55 PM

if the battery voltage is less than ten you most likely need a new battery. the car works by running everything off the battery, and charging as it goes, if you have insufficient battery power, and the alternator hasnt had chance to charge up the battery, then it will most likely just die.

Batteries can cause issues that make no sense at all, so I wouldnt be surprised!

Can you borrow a friends battery and check with that? otherwise you could go to a local scrappy and pick up a battery for a few quid, and then test it, at least you will know then if its worth spending 90+ on a new one...

#4 andy_1984

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Posted 01 March 2011 - 04:23 PM

if the battery voltage is less than ten you most likely need a new battery. the car works by running everything off the battery, and charging as it goes, if you have insufficient battery power, and the alternator hasnt had chance to charge up the battery, then it will most likely just die.

Batteries can cause issues that make no sense at all, so I wouldnt be surprised!

Can you borrow a friends battery and check with that? otherwise you could go to a local scrappy and pick up a battery for a few quid, and then test it, at least you will know then if its worth spending 90+ on a new one...



i will be renewing it as its gave me the push i needed to actually do that but how would i test with my volt meter to see if this is actually the case ?

#5 artscot79

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Posted 01 March 2011 - 06:09 PM

i will be renewing it as its gave me the push i needed to actually do that but how would i test with my volt meter to see if this is actually the case ?


had it before you have at least one faulty cell in the battery and it needs replaced with a new battery the dtc code clears itself after so many normal starts

#6 andy_1984

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Posted 02 March 2011 - 04:37 PM

while waiting till pay day to get a new battery ive been doing some more poking around with the volt meter.

with the engine off, all electrics off etc etc the battery reads 11.80

with ignition at II it reads 11.75

while trying to start the engine it reads between 7 and 9

when or if the engine starts and idles it reads 12 to 13 then dies and battery reads 12 then drops back to 11

the battery in the car is silver calcium, i popped open the plugs on top of each cell out of curiosity and the fluid inside is roughly 10mm below the lead plates. not sure if this type of battery is to be topped up with water as it does not state so on the battery.

#7 jeebowhite

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Posted 03 March 2011 - 09:10 AM

so its definitely the battery then, and I always thought you needed to top up with battery acid rather than water? could be wrong though...

#8 andy_1984

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Posted 03 March 2011 - 03:49 PM

im confused as to why it would actually start running and read over 12v while idling then stall ?. yeah ive read its to be distilled water, perhaps different batteries require different fluid but ive always heard water

#9 jeebowhite

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Posted 03 March 2011 - 04:41 PM

Depends how soon after it stalls, could be that its putting the voltage out but not the amps! if its low on fluid then it could be as simple as insufficient battery acid, not putting out enough juice! try topping it up, distilled water is cheaper than a new battery and could help a lot!

#10 andy_1984

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Posted 03 March 2011 - 04:54 PM

got a few other things to try too like cleaning up earths etc etc. if all fails new battery it is. if that fails garage it is!

thanks guys. much appreciated.

#11 duckson

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 02:16 PM

I'm no expert but what about if the alternator is faulty and not charging it properly hence you arent seeing 14.4v when up and running?

#12 andy_1984

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 02:30 PM

well battery is charging just now on trickle charger but i tested the alternator about a month ago and was working fine at the time, obviously that could have changed by now but will see what happens on a full charge and cleaning up some earths until i get a new battery on monday

#13 jeebowhite

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 04:27 PM

Have you topped up the battery fluid levels?

#14 andy_1984

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 04:47 PM

yeah done that this morning before putting it on charge so will find out when i get home

#15 artscot79

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 06:25 PM

yeah done that this morning before putting it on charge so will find out when i get home


a faulty battery can prevent it from charging at 14.4 volts though should be more like 14.4-14.9 however it could be the 3 wires from the alternator and the smart charge has reverted the alternator to a standard one

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