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2.0 Tdci 130 Problem


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#1 fordmondy

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Posted 29 April 2011 - 12:18 PM

I have a 2006 2.0 tdci diesel with 43000 miles, regularly serviced. It starts from cold ok everytime.
But intermittently when starting from warm, eg. stopping for newspaper then engine does not always start properly.
It fires staight away as normal but the revs only go up to about 500 (about half normal tickover) and the engine judders like its misfiring or not running on all four.
I can feel this through the car and it sounds really clunky.
Sometimes this will clear on its own after a few seconds and the revs will rise to about 900 (normal tickover).
Other times it will not clear and a switch off is needed.
Restarting can then repeat the fault or it may start normally.
Quickstarting or allowing glow plug time does not seem to make a difference.
Once started up right it will run ok and drive fine.
Pressing on gas pedal when is misfires has no effect.
There are no flashing fault lights, the dash appears as normal.
Thanks for any help.

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#2 mintalkin

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Posted 29 April 2011 - 02:47 PM

this is a known common problem on the tdci and ford have a ecu update which should cure it. so talk to T C Harrison about it and get them to update the ecu.

#3 fordmondy

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 09:01 PM

Rang TC Harrison and the guy said 'what known problem' and that if i'd like to book car in they'd have a look at it, at cost. Trouble is i can't make it do it and it can be several days between each time, and when it does it can clear straight away or i can spend several minutes trying to get it to run right. So don't want to pay ford to look at it and say nothing wrong when i know there is.
Reading through forums have seen quite a few people on about smoke and the EGR valve. Mine does smoke when i floor it. And a test i came across says to warm engine and while idling and apply vacuum (need tool) to EGR pipe and if car runs like a bag of !Removed! or cuts out then valve is opening ok if no difference then valve isn't working.
So i'm wondering if my valve isn't shutting properly when car is warm.

So i've taken EGR valve out (mine has elec plug on it) and its cacked (about half diameter reduced). Have cleaned it and i'm waiting to see if faults again (been 3 days so far).
I'd like to now clean inlet manifold. The very helpful guide i followed for EGR was on ford wiki and to get the manifold off i need to remove 2 electrical plugs. A grey one above manifold and a black one on solenoid bracket in front of manifold. I'm struggling to unplug them and scared i'll break them if i carry on as i can't suss out how to release them. Any help appreciated

#4 mintalkin

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 02:33 PM

when i cleaned the manifold on my tdci i removed the two bolts holding the back plate to the complete solenoid and swung the complete unit out of the way, the grey plug to the cam sensor can also be left in position

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#5 itsrelfy

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Posted 09 May 2011 - 06:02 PM

Hi

I had this on my mondeo, and i got it solved by taking it to my local ford dealer, they updated the ecu software and also re calibrated the injectors, cost about 100 quid all in. the problem never returned.



Regards
Adrian

#6 digidash

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Posted 17 May 2011 - 11:42 PM

ford service bulletin 34/2006 dated 14 dec 2006....

Should a customer express concern about low idle speed (500-700 rpm) and or no throttle repsonse for between 2 second and 3 minutes depending on vehicle, the probable cause is the minimum drive pulse (MDP) of the injectors, which has drifted excessively at low rail pressure (less than 400 bar). This causes a reduction in fuel delivery versus demand and stops the engine reaching the required idle speed in an acceptable time. The PCM does not detect the excessive MDP drift because the strategy does not learn the MDP at the pressures where the problem occurs.

After some time the idle speed will return to normal (800 rpm) and throttle repsonse will be obtained. This concern can occur when the engine is hot or cold. The issue is recurring.

To rectify this concern a new calibration has been released for service which will vary the quantity of fuel demanded during engine cranking in order to reach the idle latch speed in an acceptable time

maybe quote this before agreeing to pay 80 "diagnostics fee" tell them you know what you want and an extra fee for un-needed diagnostics is unreasonable.

good luck, steve

#7 Jwajw

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 09:29 PM

Hi I have the exact same problem can you tell me how you got on?

#8 Z3 MON

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 11:44 PM

ill be on the phone to ford tomorow i think.

cheers for this bit of nifty info digidash

#9 Z3 MON

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 09:26 AM

Just called two seperated Ford dealers re this.

The first one said 108.00 and they will stick upgrade on ECU.

The second aaid they don't do customer diagnosis so would charge 54 to check codes, if its the ugrade that's needed it will be 108 on top of the 54

Think ill try a few others lol

#10 Jwajw

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 10:16 PM

It's says the update for ecu came out in dec 06, my mondeo is an 07 plate! Would it not already have the update on?

#11 Z3 MON

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 08:15 AM

ah yes it should!

#12 pragmatix

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 08:46 AM

Is 07 the reg date or the build date

#13 Z3 MON

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 03:52 PM

O yer if its an early 07 the chances are it was built in 06 almost defiantly before the service bulletin

#14 Jwajw

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 09:25 PM

Hello, the reg is 07, I've got it booked into fords in the morning so hoping its gets sorted

#15 Anthony Dyer

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Posted 26 May 2012 - 11:27 PM

Excact same problem, mine is a 130bhp 55plate with 40750 miles on the clock

I have a 2006 2.0 tdci diesel with 43000 miles, regularly serviced. It starts from cold ok everytime.
But intermittently when starting from warm, eg. stopping for newspaper then engine does not always start properly.
It fires staight away as normal but the revs only go up to about 500 (about half normal tickover) and the engine judders like its misfiring or not running on all four.
I can feel this through the car and it sounds really clunky.
Sometimes this will clear on its own after a few seconds and the revs will rise to about 900 (normal tickover).
Other times it will not clear and a switch off is needed.
Restarting can then repeat the fault or it may start normally.
Quickstarting or allowing glow plug time does not seem to make a difference.
Once started up right it will run ok and drive fine.
Pressing on gas pedal when is misfires has no effect.
There are no flashing fault lights, the dash appears as normal.
Thanks for any help.


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