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! Guide ! How To Fit A Tuning Box To A Fiesta Mk7 1.6Tdci 95Ps


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#1 Jedilard

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Posted 29 April 2011 - 04:39 PM

! Guide !

How to fit a Tuning Box to a Fiesta Mk7 1.6tdci 95ps


Firstly thanks to Lez, Tone and Cliffhanger who all responded to my request for help in fitting a tuning box.
In particular to Lez who supplied a couple of pictures that I have used within this guide.
Firstly my reason for going for a box rather than a remap is simply the fact that I have not found anyone that can remap the 95psi version.
There are loads of tuning boxes available, the one I have fitted was from tdi-tuning.co.uk and from what I can tell they all connect in the same way.

Tdi-Tuning

Which ever box you go for I'd strongly recommended you also by a blanking cap. Once you have fitted the tuning box its really easy to access the box itself, but to remove the cabling you will need to repeat the fitting process. By using a cap you can take the box out and replace it with the cap, which then returns the car to normal, but the cables remain. This is the one that goes with my box.

http://www.tdi-tunin..._cap_P2449.html


Anyway fitting the box is not the 10 minute job that the sellers quote as the common rail is not situated at the front of the engine but behind it.
The picture below (from Lez) shows what the engine looks like from behind and the red circle is where the common rail is.

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The following is a guide of how I fitted mine, which will hopefully prove useful to members looking to fit a box to their fiesta.
• Tools needed – Socket set, Set of Alan Keys. Optional – Torch and screwdriver
• Time – 1 to 2 hours
• Mechanic skill level – Low (I have none!)

Step 1 – What needs to be removed – the Battery!

Posted Image

There is no way to get at the common rail plug without making some space. The only thing that needs to be removed in the Battery and the case it sits in (green cross).
However the ECU is also secured to the battery case (white cross) so we will also need to detach this from the battery case.

The red cross I believe is the air filter and some posts I've read people say you have to remove this as well. I managed to avoid this.

Step 2 – Remove the Battery

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Disconnect you battery and remove the 3 bolt circled in red. The battery can then be removed.

Step 3 – Detach the ECU from the plastic battery case.

Posted Image

There are 3 screws that need to be removed in order to detach the ECU from the battery case.
The first is easily accessible – circle in red. Also it's a good idea to move the rubber tube (blue dot) at this point.
The second two screws are actually underneath the case itself and are a bit of a pain to get to.

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Remove the 3 bolts securing the battery case – circled in red. The two yellow dots are approximately where the screws are underneath.
This was one of the hardest bits to figure out as there isn't enough room to easily get at them.
However the box is plastic and will give a little so with a bit of twisting and pulling I got it out this much.
The two red dots are where the screws are underneath and the green arrow shows the gap I used to get at them.

Posted Image

The picture below is a slightly confusing as I put my camera underneath and took a picture.
The red arrow points to the top of the battery case and the two red circles show the screws.
Using a alan key you can loosen these two enough before using your hand to unscrew them totally – take care not to drop them!

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Once these are out the plastic box can be removed. The ECU can then be moved out of the way (picture below)- the yellow arrows shows where to move it. For info the red circles show where those two tricky screws were. The Blue dot shows where to look for the next step.

Posted Image

Step 4 – Access the Common Rail

Finding this connector perhaps the hardest thing about fitting the tuning box as even now you can't really see it.
You have to put your hand behind the engine and feel for it. The picture below shows exactly where to put your hand to find it.
It's my hand in the picture and the tips of my fingers are touching the connector.

Posted Image

I managed to get the connector out using just my hand – practice with the cable that came with the tuning box to understand how they work.
Once off the cable connector itself is red in colour.
You can now connect your tuning box!!!
Before putting everything back I secured the box – at the moment I've put it just above the washer pump.
Once it was secured I reversed the process to put everything back together.

Hope it helps!

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#2 Jedilard

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Posted 29 April 2011 - 05:06 PM

Mod - please could you add GUIDE to the title of my post - forgot to put it in. Thanks

#3 kenny.c

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Posted 29 April 2011 - 05:52 PM

Great guide......

Just another note....anyone who has access to a ramp....you can also gain access to the plug from under the car.

Ken

#4 fordpartsman

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Posted 29 April 2011 - 06:19 PM

GOOD GUIDE, ONE CLUB CONTRIBUTOR STAR ADDED FOR YOU

THANKS AGAIN

#5 Lez

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Posted 29 April 2011 - 06:40 PM

GOOD GUIDE, ONE CLUB CONTRIBUTOR STAR ADDED FOR YOU

THANKS AGAIN



Nice! when i will get Club contributor star?...

#6 Jedilard

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Posted 04 May 2011 - 07:55 PM

Little update since fitting the box - and 500 mile later.

No problems to report and it definitely has made it feel a more complete car. Flat spots are much less and the power drop off point is much later- not that I'm driving it hard.

Biggest surprise is fuel economy which has increased from 67mpg (careful driving) to 74/75mpg. I've also put some millers in which may have impacted the mpg slightly.

#7 kenny.c

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 12:12 AM

Little update since fitting the box - and 500 mile later.

No problems to report and it definitely has made it feel a more complete car. Flat spots are much less and the power drop off point is much later- not that I'm driving it hard.

Biggest surprise is fuel economy which has increased from 67mpg (careful driving) to 74/75mpg. I've also put some millers in which may have impacted the mpg slightly.


Id double check you MPG.....these boxes are fooling the high pressure pump into putting more fuel pressure into the fuel rail...in other words more fuel for a given signal the ECU is asking for. The ECU still thinks its injecting standard fuel rate and doesnt know about the extra fuel going in.....the MPG figure shown on the dash is based on this false assumption by the ECU......

Driven steady the MPG should be SLIGHTLY better......the adverts advertising big MPG increases from plug in boxes are complete fiction im afraid.

Ken

#8 Jedilard

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 05:37 AM

Hi Kenny

Interesting comment and I will do fill-up test to check. However if what you say is correct then surely the ecu would start reporting a lower mpg (more fuel being used), not a higher one? If it still thinks it's using standard fuel then my mpg would still be around the 66 mark.

I did a fair bit of research before installing and my understanding is the ecu is still in control of everything, but the box sends it altered readings so that it then changes fuel etc. The ecu knows if more fuel is being used as it ultimately still sends the instruction.

#9 Lez

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 07:21 AM

The tuning box is just a resistor, the pressure sensor reading will be low, so the diesel pump make higher pressure in the rail! yes with the higher pressure the injectors will put more fuel in the engine, but after the power increase, you do not need to rev your engine more! so if you drive without a heavy feet , you will have more MPG, but if you using the more power, and drive sporty your MPG will less...

#10 cyb

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 08:52 AM

Great review and info, top marks from me – I was considering getting a tuning box as I used to have one on my old Astra, I liked the fact that they were ‘supposed’ to fit and remove easily. Think I’ll pass for now.

#11 oilburner

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 07:10 AM

Excellent guide
Appreciate your effort producing this
I will be fitting one of these tuning boxes now

cheers

#12 oilburner

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 05:07 PM

Got my tuning box fitted
Car accelerates much better and on a 500 mile motorway run has just returned 66mpg - which for me is excellent as best before was 57mpg. I am a bit heavy footed when overtaking!

#13 mikester

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 06:58 PM

i'd rather have a map that is custom to my car, shame dreamscience don't do anything yet as i'd also like the device to remove and store maps come service time.


nice guide though



#14 Elkie

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 08:15 PM

Please remember that your warranty will be invalid and tell your insurer about the upgrade. If you think they wont find out you are wrong, the latest software they put into the ECU will pick up additional devices whether they are still present or not and changes in fuelling patterns.

I found out the hard way with a blown engine and £4k bill....

#15 Jedilard

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Posted 03 June 2011 - 09:47 AM

Oilburner how did the fitting go for you?

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