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! Guide ! How To Fit A Tuning Box To A Fiesta Mk7 1.6Tdci 95Ps


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#31 TDCiST

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 10:38 AM

i do have a heavy foot on occasions but i still thought i would of got around 45 without driving like a nun?


Id have thought you should too.. even with a heavy foot i was getting 42-45 in the old 1.8 115 focus!

Sure there isnt another issue somewhere?

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#32 bneeco

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 02:16 AM

im pretty sure, its now done 16k miles and still same mpg, so its fully run in etc

#33 focus11

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Posted 09 February 2012 - 04:41 PM

! Guide !

How to fit a Tuning Box to a Fiesta Mk7 1.6tdci 95ps


Firstly thanks to Lez, Tone and Cliffhanger who all responded to my request for help in fitting a tuning box.
In particular to Lez who supplied a couple of pictures that I have used within this guide.
Firstly my reason for going for a box rather than a remap is simply the fact that I have not found anyone that can remap the 95psi version.
There are loads of tuning boxes available, the one I have fitted was from tdi-tuning.co.uk and from what I can tell they all connect in the same way.

Tdi-Tuning

Which ever box you go for I'd strongly recommended you also by a blanking cap. Once you have fitted the tuning box its really easy to access the box itself, but to remove the cabling you will need to repeat the fitting process. By using a cap you can take the box out and replace it with the cap, which then returns the car to normal, but the cables remain. This is the one that goes with my box.

http://www.tdi-tunin..._cap_P2449.html


Anyway fitting the box is not the 10 minute job that the sellers quote as the common rail is not situated at the front of the engine but behind it.
The picture below (from Lez) shows what the engine looks like from behind and the red circle is where the common rail is.

Posted Image

The following is a guide of how I fitted mine, which will hopefully prove useful to members looking to fit a box to their fiesta.
• Tools needed – Socket set, Set of Alan Keys. Optional – Torch and screwdriver
• Time – 1 to 2 hours
• Mechanic skill level – Low (I have none!)

Step 1 – What needs to be removed – the Battery!

Posted Image

There is no way to get at the common rail plug without making some space. The only thing that needs to be removed in the Battery and the case it sits in (green cross).
However the ECU is also secured to the battery case (white cross) so we will also need to detach this from the battery case.

The red cross I believe is the air filter and some posts I've read people say you have to remove this as well. I managed to avoid this.

Step 2 – Remove the Battery

Posted Image

Disconnect you battery and remove the 3 bolt circled in red. The battery can then be removed.

Step 3 – Detach the ECU from the plastic battery case.

Posted Image

There are 3 screws that need to be removed in order to detach the ECU from the battery case.
The first is easily accessible – circle in red. Also it's a good idea to move the rubber tube (blue dot) at this point.
The second two screws are actually underneath the case itself and are a bit of a pain to get to.

Posted Image

Remove the 3 bolts securing the battery case – circled in red. The two yellow dots are approximately where the screws are underneath.
This was one of the hardest bits to figure out as there isn't enough room to easily get at them.
However the box is plastic and will give a little so with a bit of twisting and pulling I got it out this much.
The two red dots are where the screws are underneath and the green arrow shows the gap I used to get at them.

Posted Image

The picture below is a slightly confusing as I put my camera underneath and took a picture.
The red arrow points to the top of the battery case and the two red circles show the screws.
Using a alan key you can loosen these two enough before using your hand to unscrew them totally – take care not to drop them!

Posted Image

Once these are out the plastic box can be removed. The ECU can then be moved out of the way (picture below)- the yellow arrows shows where to move it. For info the red circles show where those two tricky screws were. The Blue dot shows where to look for the next step.

Posted Image

Step 4 – Access the Common Rail

Finding this connector perhaps the hardest thing about fitting the tuning box as even now you can't really see it.
You have to put your hand behind the engine and feel for it. The picture below shows exactly where to put your hand to find it.
It's my hand in the picture and the tips of my fingers are touching the connector.

Posted Image

I managed to get the connector out using just my hand – practice with the cable that came with the tuning box to understand how they work.
Once off the cable connector itself is red in colour.
You can now connect your tuning box!!!
Before putting everything back I secured the box – at the moment I've put it just above the washer pump.
Once it was secured I reversed the process to put everything back together.

Hope it helps!


Hi quick question - to connect one to a MK3 new focus I'm guessing it will be a similar procedure?

However I had a look down the engine today and there is a considerable amount of space down the back which I could easily put my leg down lol so could I access it from there?

Can you give some details as to what the actual connector looks like and describe where it is usually based and I can have a look?

Thanks

#34 b1g_dav3

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Posted 31 December 2012 - 11:13 AM

Update on this:

I've tried and succeeded with 2 other ways of fitting that are literally what, 5 minutes?!

If you have nimble fingers, remove the inner wing covers from the wheel wells (if very nimble you can leave the wheel on!) and you should be able to do it, 10x easier without the wheel though and takes about a minute to remove and put back on.

Less nimble, jack the car up and axle stands under, drop the tray out and then you can get to it quite easily. Easier than the wheel option.

The way listed on here is by far the easiest as far as needing nimble fingers is concerned, but this takes a good deal longer.

Also looking in to a chip set that introduces a second map to plug into the boost sensor by DTUK. The don't offer it for the Fiesta, but they're looking in to it because I was nagging them! Hopefully it can be done and will keep you updated.

#35 Symmo

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 03:27 PM

Just wanted to say thanks for the guide. Installed a bluesparks chip this morning & wouldn't have been able to do it without this guide. Removing the ECU from the battery tray is a pig!



#36 TobbeSthlm

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 01:26 PM

Hi!
I have a C-Max 2011 with the same engine.
Do you think the guide works for that car too?
Regards Thomas

#37 maris273

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Posted 17 November 2013 - 06:50 PM

Hiya, 

Today i tried to install chip box for my fiesta.Everything you had on pictures were correct but there are easier way to do than you showed. Firstly remove the battery and unscrew the 3 screws after you removed the air box you can move your battery plastic box with ecu. You have a space and then you may put the chip box and you may put your hand to reach the plug to connect it. After that you may put everything back. If you remove air box you don't need to remove eco box it would be hard because the screws are the bottom which will make it difficult.  

P.S Some of the pictures you showed are hard and it takes loads of time than when i did mine. However there are correct bits which i did too.But there was a information that you could get from the bottom to get the plug and what i did was i removed the passengers wheel and there is a gap and you will see the commoner al plug but it is hard to reach it but you could try it might work for you. I am very happy with the chip box  DRACKE BOX2 more power quick accelerate and save your fuel and VERY. It is true i tested myself i could not believe this.  

Thank you!

Good luck

:rolleyes:



#38 jcbdriver

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Posted 26 December 2013 - 08:03 PM

Hello, I have fitted quite a few tuning boxes to the 1.6 & 1,4 TDCI engines in the fiesta, I have found an easier way to do the job than in this guide, I got the job down to 20 mins from start to finish, I'm not knocking Jedilard who has obviously spent time taking the pictures and writing the guide.

 you need a long  o ring pick  with a 90 degree bend on the end

a pair of long handled long nose pliers with 45 degree bend

8mm & 10 mm 1/4 drive sockets & medium extension (fuel filter housing bolts)

torch or head lamp

 

1.6 TDCI remove fuel filter & housing, you then have more room to see the common rail pressure sensor, go down through the gap where the fuel filter was with the o ring pick whilst picking the clip on the connector on the end of the common rail sensor you can get in behind the ecu & battery with your pliers and remove the connector, connect your tuning module with the aid of the long nosed pliers put your fuel filter back in with its housing and away you go. you can also disconnect the battery if you want to before starting the job.

 

1.4 TDCI similar to above but is more difficult because the common rail seems to be mounted further down the cylinder block and the common rail sensor connector is very close to the flywheel housing making it more difficult to pick the clip on the sensor

 

first one i did was a right pain in the !Removed! to do, and used a similar principle as in Jedilards guide, but after a bit of head scratching i found the above easier way

 

hope my experiences help.



#39 Epu

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 05:28 PM

Anyone here who can help me out with choosing a good chip tuning box for fiesta 1.6tdci 95ps. I bought "powerbox 3" named box and apparently didn't work. Tried my old DS-tuning box from my old MB but with that the car didn't even start. So some links to ebay or something would be much appreciated.



#40 Epu

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 03:09 PM

Hello, I have fitted quite a few tuning boxes to the 1.6 & 1,4 TDCI engines in the fiesta, I have found an easier way to do the job than in this guide, I got the job down to 20 mins from start to finish, I'm not knocking Jedilard who has obviously spent time taking the pictures and writing the guide.

 you need a long  o ring pick  with a 90 degree bend on the end

a pair of long handled long nose pliers with 45 degree bend

8mm & 10 mm 1/4 drive sockets & medium extension (fuel filter housing bolts)

torch or head lamp

 

1.6 TDCI remove fuel filter & housing, you then have more room to see the common rail pressure sensor, go down through the gap where the fuel filter was with the o ring pick whilst picking the clip on the connector on the end of the common rail sensor you can get in behind the ecu & battery with your pliers and remove the connector, connect your tuning module with the aid of the long nosed pliers put your fuel filter back in with its housing and away you go. you can also disconnect the battery if you want to before starting the job.

 

1.4 TDCI similar to above but is more difficult because the common rail seems to be mounted further down the cylinder block and the common rail sensor connector is very close to the flywheel housing making it more difficult to pick the clip on the sensor

 

first one i did was a right pain in the !Removed! to do, and used a similar principle as in Jedilards guide, but after a bit of head scratching i found the above easier way

 

hope my experiences help.

Also from start to finish (taking apart and putting back on) fitting a tuning box with the instructions from this guide takes me 15mins. So thanks for the guide Jedilard!  Its really not that much of a hassle. First it took me good 30mins but the second time when I knew exactly what tools I needed and what to do it takes around 15mins.



#41 WhiteFoFi2011

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Posted 21 March 2014 - 04:53 PM

Done.

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