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slrooke

DTC-9202 Fuel Sender Open Please Help

10 posts in this topic

Ive checked for dtc codes on my mk1 focus using the dash trick and it shows - 9202, looking on google this means fuel sender open, does this mean im going to go through a lot of petrol and need to get this fixed quickly, or can it wait till after christmas.

could it be the cold affecting the sensor, i checked for codes a couple of months ago and there wernt any.

lately the revs have also been hanging, with the clutch pressed down the car revs at 1500 for a bit then drops back down to normal, if i get the sender replaced will this solve the problem. anyone know how much it will cost or should i do it my self

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By 'open' it means open-circuit, not leaky. Have you experienced any problems with the fuel gauge? If not it could be an intermittent break in the circuit which the ECU has detected but which hasn't lasted long enough for the gauge to respond. This could be caused by a dirty spot on the sender track or a loose or corroded connection externally. Before getting the sender changed check the connections are clean and secure.

I don't think a sender problem would be responsible for your other problem.

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By 'open' it means open-circuit, not leaky. Have you experienced any problems with the fuel gauge? If not it could be an intermittent break in the circuit which the ECU has detected but which hasn't lasted long enough for the gauge to respond. This could be caused by a dirty spot on the sender track or a loose or corroded connection externally. Before getting the sender changed check the connections are clean and secure.

I don't think a sender problem would be responsible for your other problem.

Yes this means an open electric circuit not an open valve.

You can also get this code come up if the car has been jumped started with leads or a battery replaced.

This can also cause other error codes to show and I have even had airbag warning lights come on

after the car has been jump started by the staff at a car auction when buying.

I would suggest that you buy a fault finder with 16 pin plug and erase the code,if it comes on again

you then know that the circuit is open or opening.

Fault finder testers are so cheap now it pays to buy one as 90% of the time codes that are erased will

never show again and why get charged £26 every time Ford put it on the tester.

I bought one off of e-bay for £13 the best buy I ever bought.

Hope this helps.

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Yes this means an open electric circuit not an open valve.

You can also get this code come up if the car has been jumped started with leads or a battery replaced.

This can also cause other error codes to show and I have even had airbag warning lights come on

after the car has been jump started by the staff at a car auction when buying.

I would suggest that you buy a fault finder with 16 pin plug and erase the code,if it comes on again

you then know that the circuit is open or opening.

Fault finder testers are so cheap now it pays to buy one as 90% of the time codes that are erased will

never show again and why get charged £26 every time Ford put it on the tester.

I bought one off of e-bay for £13 the best buy I ever bought.

Hope this helps.

which fault finder do you reccomend, can they all erase codes??? dont want to buy one of its not the correct one i need.

thanks for the help.

is the high idle i sometimes get likely to be the throttle positioning sensor, i was driving to day and it was idling at 2000 revs for a bit when the clutch was down,

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This might be a fault in the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) which, as it's name implies, provides a bypass path for air for idling. This is controlled by the ECU to regulate idle speed. It could also be an air leak somewhere, but the intermittent nature of the fault points to the valve sticking.

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This might be a fault in the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) which, as it's name implies, provides a bypass path for air for idling. This is controlled by the ECU to regulate idle speed. It could also be an air leak somewhere, but the intermittent nature of the fault points to the valve sticking.

just changed the air filter and sarkplugs as reccomended by the haynes manual and on the 5min drive from my dads house to mine it seemed to be running a lot better, idles at 750rm as it should and the revs havnt hanged yet, ill see how things are on my way to work later, knowing my look the problem will happen again

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which fault finder do you reccomend, can they all erase codes??? dont want to buy one of its not the correct one i need.

thanks for the help.

is the high idle i sometimes get likely to be the throttle positioning sensor, i was driving to day and it was idling at 2000 revs for a bit when the clutch was down,

I have a Mk1 Focus the code reader plug in under the steering wheel just check that it is the sixteen pin one then this code reader should do the job it's the same as mine.

Should be the OBD system.

Will read all fault codes on the engine and erase,will turn off dashboard warning lights and show the car vin number log in ecu.

See e-bay link below you may have to copy and paste it into your browser let me know if it does not work.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=380073485101

They are great as I also have a Vauxhall Astra and I have had a fault that only shows its self

every two months or so and every time this egr valve stuck the dashboard light would turn on.

This I can turn off with this reader unit and erase the code and then wait to see what is causing the

problem before buying a new part.

The fault was caused by this egr valve just getting stuck once out of 100 openings I would never have traced it without this unit.

Sounds like this might be happening with your throttle positioning sensor.

Hope this helps.

Eddie.

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slrooke,

I noticed your message on the other thread. The valve I was referring to is an electro-mechanical component attached to the inlet manifold. It won't be affected by an oil change, nor by additive in the fuel.

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slrooke,

I noticed your message on the other thread. The valve I was referring to is an electro-mechanical component attached to the inlet manifold. It won't be affected by an oil change, nor by additive in the fuel.

ok, is there an easy fix

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ok, is there an easy fix

It depends if that is the real cause of your problem. As you don't have any error codes relating to the Throttle Position Sensor I would say it's unlikely to be that. Because the ECU drives the IACV but doesn't get any feedback from it (other than engine speed) it probably wouldn't detect a problem with it unless it failed completely. That's why I think it's the likely culprit.

As to being an easy fix, as you have the Haynes you can see how it can be removed and it looks as though it should be reasonably easy to try replacing it. On some makes of cars I believe it's possible to dismantle and clean it. My Focus is an oil burner so I don't have experience with the petrol model. Maybe one of the other contributors might know if it can be done on the Focus.

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