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focustim

Focus starting problems

7 posts in this topic

Just bought a 2000 1.8 zetec Ford Focus and yesterday I had a problem starting it. The engine cranked over but would not fire (or tried to a tiny bit). We checked the battery voltage and it turned out to be real low (12.2v) so I bought a new battery. It was real cold out which may have had something to do with it.

Stuck the new one in this morning but did the same thing. Battery voltage was better at 12.53 but it wasn't really firing. I then tried to start with my foot fully pressed on the accelerator and after a few seconds of intermittent firing it started ok and then ran fine. It has now restarted ok since. Voltage when running was 14.7 with lights/heater/heated screen on (so as far as I can tell the battery is being charged fine).

After I google searched I found the following suggestions:

Spark plugs dirty

Fuel injection problem causing engine flooding?

Fuel pump

Cranking sensor

Coolant temp sensor

I have a feeling it is something to do with fuel, but not sure. It seems to run fine when its running other than occasional slight (up to 2000rpm) revving coming up to junctions when the clutch is depressed (perhaps completely unrelated?).

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

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Just bought a 2000 1.8 zetec Ford Focus and yesterday I had a problem starting it. The engine cranked over but would not fire (or tried to a tiny bit). We checked the battery voltage and it turned out to be real low (12.2v) so I bought a new battery. It was real cold out which may have had something to do with it.

Stuck the new one in this morning but did the same thing. Battery voltage was better at 12.53 but it wasn't really firing. I then tried to start with my foot fully pressed on the accelerator and after a few seconds of intermittent firing it started ok and then ran fine. It has now restarted ok since. Voltage when running was 14.7 with lights/heater/heated screen on (so as far as I can tell the battery is being charged fine).

After I google searched I found the following suggestions:

Spark plugs dirty

Fuel injection problem causing engine flooding?

Fuel pump

Cranking sensor

Coolant temp sensor

I have a feeling it is something to do with fuel, but not sure. It seems to run fine when its running other than occasional slight (up to 2000rpm) revving coming up to junctions when the clutch is depressed (perhaps completely unrelated?).

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

use the dash trick (top thread in the forum) and check for any error codes, when you buy a car its always a good idea to service it and replace the sparkplugs etc, i also have the problem of hig revs when the clutch is pressed, replacing the spark plugs and using injector cleaner has improved it alot but it still occasionaly happens, a poster on here reconds its a valve sticking so im going to do an oil change and add an oil adative to see what effect it has

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use the dash trick (top thread in the forum) and check for any error codes, when you buy a car its always a good idea to service it and replace the sparkplugs etc, i also have the problem of hig revs when the clutch is pressed, replacing the spark plugs and using injector cleaner has improved it alot but it still occasionaly happens, a poster on here reconds its a valve sticking so im going to do an oil change and add an oil adative to see what effect it has

So I did the self diagnostic test but it said there weren't any DTCs. It has been suggested to me that this could be something to do with the electronic choke?

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So I did the self diagnostic test but it said there weren't any DTCs. It has been suggested to me that this could be something to do with the electronic choke?

The self diagnostic test on the dashboard will not tell you anything,these codes that show from that test are test codes when the car is built so those building the car can check all is ok with the connections and bulb lights etc.

The engine running fault codes can only be obtained by pluging in a fault reader in to the socket under the steering wheel behind the cover plate.

These codes are the only reliable fault reading codes for the running of the engine.

Because of the dampness try a spray of wd40 in the both ends of the HT leads if it improves replace HT Leads - plugs and air filter.

Hope this helps.

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The self diagnostic test on the dashboard will not tell you anything,these codes that show from that test are test codes when the car is built so those building the car can check all is ok with the connections and bulb lights etc.

The engine running fault codes can only be obtained by pluging in a fault reader in to the socket under the steering wheel behind the cover plate.

These codes are the only reliable fault reading codes for the running of the engine.

Because of the dampness try a spray of wd40 in the both ends of the HT leads if it improves replace HT Leads - plugs and air filter.

Hope this helps.

OK thanks for that advice. I was thinking of getting one of those fault readers off ebay, does anyone know exactly which one I should get? Also, fault codes that people appear to be getting (i.e. DTC-9202) don't seem to appear on any of the fault code lists I have found on the internet (i.e. here: http://bbs.rsownersclub.co.uk/showthread.php?t=150460 and here: http://www.fordst170.co.uk/dtc-codes.php), am I missing something?

It appears (although I am not certain yet) that the problems seems to be related to how long the car is left without being used. Obviously the longer I leave it, the worse it is. Over night I can start it with a little throttle persuasion but if left 2 nights I may have to crank it over with my foot flat to the floor (I have yet to leave it 2 nights since this first happened).

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it sounds like you could have a leaking injector dripping fuel into a clynder over a period of time.

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OK thanks for that advice. I was thinking of getting one of those fault readers off ebay, does anyone know exactly which one I should get? Also, fault codes that people appear to be getting (i.e. DTC-9202) don't seem to appear on any of the fault code lists I have found on the internet (i.e. here: http://bbs.rsownersclub.co.uk/showthread.php?t=150460 and here: http://www.fordst170.co.uk/dtc-codes.php), am I missing something?

It appears (although I am not certain yet) that the problems seems to be related to how long the car is left without being used. Obviously the longer I leave it, the worse it is. Over night I can start it with a little throttle persuasion but if left 2 nights I may have to crank it over with my foot flat to the floor (I have yet to leave it 2 nights since this first happened).

The dtc code 9202 is for fuel sender unit open circuit.

See dtc 9202 open listing above your listing on focus page one.

Code reader link below.Just check that your car has 16 pin plug under steering wheel,remover the little cover.Then this ones for you.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UNIVERSAL-CAR-DIAGNO...A1%7C240%3A1308

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