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Central locking problems - possible solution


focustim
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I've read loads of threads on here about central locking issues so thought I'd share what I've learned from extensive google searches.

My central locking was slightly intermittent and then it decided to stop altogether. I didn't have any problems with it locking by itself or the boot opening on its own, but my solution may help these problems. I thought it was my battery so I replaced it, but it still didn't work. I then found this info about resetting/reprogramming the central locking:

Insert key into ignition and turn to ignition and back 4 times in quick succession.

You will then hear a chime which indicates you are in the central locking programming mode.

remove key and press the lock and unlock (although I only needed to press the lock) button on the remote.

You will then here another chime and it should be done.

My central locking works great now with no issues as yet.

Hope it helps, it saved me £45+VAT for a new remote and £68 + VAT my local ford dealer were going to charge me to program it (they probably just use the method given above!). Perhaps this should be a sticky along with info about the central locking fuse and where to find it.

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I've read loads of threads on here about central locking issues so thought I'd share what I've learned from extensive google searches.

My central locking was slightly intermittent and then it decided to stop altogether. I didn't have any problems with it locking by itself or the boot opening on its own, but my solution may help these problems. I thought it was my battery so I replaced it, but it still didn't work. I then found this info about resetting/reprogramming the central locking:

Insert key into ignition and turn to ignition and back 4 times in quick succession.

You will then hear a chime which indicates you are in the central locking programming mode.

remove key and press the lock and unlock (although I only needed to press the lock) button on the remote.

You will then here another chime and it should be done.

My central locking works great now with no issues as yet.

Hope it helps, it saved me £45+VAT for a new remote and £68 + VAT my local ford dealer were going to charge me to program it (they probably just use the method given above!). Perhaps this should be a sticky along with info about the central locking fuse and where to find it.

As you say this does seem to be the best idea to clear alot of problems with the central locking,

it makes you think how much money is made by Ford just out of a few minutes work.

I do not know if the same time delay applies for a Ford Focus but battery replacement on Ford Mondeo allows you only 15 seconds to relpace a new battery before the system shuts off from the key

then that would need the same reprograming as you have detailed.

Until the internet started these reprograming details where never known and never able to get hold of.

I bet these main dealers curse these forums now.

Good luck with the car.

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  • 1 year later...

Thanks - this worked perfect on my Cmax 2008.

I've read loads of threads on here about central locking issues so thought I'd share what I've learned from extensive google searches.

My central locking was slightly intermittent and then it decided to stop altogether. I didn't have any problems with it locking by itself or the boot opening on its own, but my solution may help these problems. I thought it was my battery so I replaced it, but it still didn't work. I then found this info about resetting/reprogramming the central locking:

Insert key into ignition and turn to ignition and back 4 times in quick succession.

You will then hear a chime which indicates you are in the central locking programming mode.

remove key and press the lock and unlock (although I only needed to press the lock) button on the remote.

You will then here another chime and it should be done.

My central locking works great now with no issues as yet.

Hope it helps, it saved me £45+VAT for a new remote and £68 + VAT my local ford dealer were going to charge me to program it (they probably just use the method given above!). Perhaps this should be a sticky along with info about the central locking fuse and where to find it.

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  • 3 years later...

This solution worked for me i have a 2000 (x reg) 2.0 ford focus and the remote central locking didn't work and the doors intermittently opened after manually opening the drivers door. did as instructed in the above posts now everything is back to normal, thanks for the useful information.

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Just tried this on a 1.8 tdci 55 plate and no luck, got the chime etc but no luck with persistant failing passenger lock. Been to ford x2 but they could'nt find a fault and it worked perfectly all the time "typical" lol strangely it only happens when my mrs has been in the passenger seat <_< Also it works fine for days after a 50+ mile run, couldn't say if it works after a 49 mile run as I didn't try it until after 50 lolol

Thanks for the post though all :)

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when you got the chime did you press the unlock and lock buttons and then open the drivers door and close it again? the fact the fault is intermittant with your wife getting in the passenger seat might suggest the fault lies in the passenger door?

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Hi mik_se7 yes did the unlock / lock / unlock although did not physically open the drivers door. Also are we talking pressing the lock and unlock together? as I din't try that.

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ok what i did was i got into my car and closed the drivers door so all doors were shut, i then put the key in the ignition and turned it to preignition and back 4 times and got 1 chime i then removed the key from the ignition barrel and pressed the unlock button once and then the lock button once, i then opened the drivers door and closed it again and tested the central locking with buttons on the key and everything worked again.

also forgot to say i got a second chime after pressing the unlock button.

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right just tried this.. open car with remote - passengers lock failed - opened that lock manually.

Did the ignition 4 times got the chime (more of a beeep on mine) took out the key - pressed unlock / lock - opened driver door - closed and nothing.

Tried a few combinations of lock / unlock but central locking seemed to have failed altogether :o

Started again a few times - over and over, then switched attention to the passenger door lock - when I was in the car and all locks open except the passenger did the ignition again lock/unlock then when pressing unlock I manually opened the passenger lock, all motors on central locking seemed to operate at the same time almost as if they were still locked. However when I opened and closed the driver door and pressed lock all doors locked from the fob and also dead locked.

So either the lock has given up on it's hissy fit and decided to work or which ever order i ended up doing this in worked... wish I would of witten it down now lol So at the minute all locks are working as should, at least that saves me from having to lock the car open the car reach over and manually lock the passenger door then lock the car again :o

Thankyou for taking the time to nudge me in the right direction :D

appreciate it ;)

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no worries i find electrical faults in cars are a lot like faults on computers the resolution to the problem is often a variation of other attempts to fix the same problem lol but who cares as long as it worked lol

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  • 2 months later...

Hi

I've tried everything above, but the fault remains. The problems lies with the passenger door. If I replace the central locking mechanism on the door will it resolve the issue, and if so what part do I need exactly?

Thanks in advance

Rik

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Hi Rik,

What are the problems your having?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Ford OC mobile app

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  • 1 year later...

Thanks so much ! - we have a ford s-max and central locking stopped working about 8 months ago and I thought we needed to go through insurance to get a new key! I happened to call into timptons and they said that the signal was still getting sent from the key so I came across this forum and I am so glad - With 4 kids to load and offload it was really annoying to say the least! Did exactly what the first person posting on this did and now I have central locking again - sooo happy

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  • 4 months later...

My C MAX started to do this last year just before Christmas. off and on over 4 months . then no trouble at all for six months now it has started again. but this time the 3 passenger doors will not open at all not even from the inside. not good to ask your wife to climb over to the drivers side to get out of the car and shes not in the best of health.

1- could this be an earth problem as it seems worse in the winter and

2 - is this not a safety issue what if i had an accident wouldnt be able to get out the car

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Yes it could be a safety issue but if the doors won't open from the inside that would suggest it's a failure on the lock. If you have a garage then this works better... You would need to get the car warmed up, if you can't then get a hairdryer and warm the door next to the door handle from the outside and have the hot air circulating on the inside to warm the car up there ad well. If it's a cold issue then the locks should open in which case, you should take the lock mechanism out and grease it up and then reinsert

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

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thanks for the reply james. just wondering if i spray WD40 inside the door in might help willing to try anything before shelling £££ out

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You can try, to be honest it mat help but only if there is water there helping to lock it.

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

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This is my first post so I hope it will be useful

I have a Focus ST 2007 pre facelift both doors would not lock/unlock correctly and the indicator lights did not flash to say the doors had locked or unlocked. Strangley the handbrake light was also on all the time and the temp gage also stopped working and the indicators using the indicator stalk would flash as normal but no clicking sound to say they where working. Tried taking the battery of for a few mins. no luck there. After scratching my head and backside for a while I found this fix on Utube. Underneath the fuse box passenger side under the felt trim (no need to open fuse box) are two large plugs with a securing clip and the red one had become completely unattached to its socket put this back in and closed the clip (battery off) and hey it all worked fine again no problems. worth a look as I am sure this will apply to most Focus as the wiring loom would be mostly the same.

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  • 2 weeks later...

i`ve just brought a focus LX TD Di (2001-51 reg) & the tailgate doesnt open at all either from the key/central locking or the button on the dash ... i don`t have a remote keyfob as the guy who sold me the car didnt have one ...

have heard various things as to what the issue could be & i`m guessing that its a common problem on these ??? - if i can get the tailgate open from insie the car would it be worth replacing the lock unit itself as well as the related central locking fuse ???

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There maybe an emergency release somewhere. I recon your lock mechanism is shot

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

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hi just some news for everyone i have found out that there is a problem with the mk1 CMAX , just above the fuse box / GEM mod

are the pipes for the air con these get condensation on them and drip onto the connections. i cleaned mine up with non conductive WD40 spray put it back together and the doors opened. Ford know about this. i do not know how long it is going to last as the water seems to have got into the circuits. just looked at eBay for a cheap 2nd hand one and it has the same problem. here is a photo of mine for people to look at post-70724-0-43400800-1452523481_thumb.j

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Good find, may be worth just fitting a cover to the box. Sadly as a spec one is not available, it may be something you can fabricate. Daft as it may sound, cling film may help!

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

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Just to add let the spray dry and leave it for a while to evaporate

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Just to add let the spray dry and leave it for a while to evaporate

i believe mk2 has something to stop the drips dropping onto the fuse box

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Use dielectric grease on all the connections on the box.

As for the key need to be reprogrammed it happens because the keys are next to other devices which use different radio waves. Causing the remote to change its frequency.

Basically doing the reprogram procedure make the car learn the new frequency. Always try that first. Also keep away from mobile phones, and NFC enable credit cards etc.

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