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Ben...

! Guide ! Changing Springs On Fiesta Mk7

27 posts in this topic

Tooling Required

New Springs

Trolley Jack

Spring Compressors

Axle Stand

Metric Spanners (Ideally Ratchet Spanners)

An 18mm Ring Spanner (See Step 16)

Metric Allen Keys

Metric Socket Set

Torque Wrench

Step 1

Purchase Springs

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Step 2

Jack up the rear of one side of the car

Remove wheel

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Step 3

Undo bolt at the base of the shock

15mm socket

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Step 4

Either

1. Get someone to stand on the hub (easy option)

2. Compress the rear spring (hard to get to)

An pull the spring out

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Step 5

Get your new spring and put the locating rubber grommet in the top

(Writing goes the correct way up)

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Step 6

Replace the new spring getting the top in place first

Either

1. Get someone to stand on the hub and fit spring

2. Slightly compress the side of the spring closest to the front of the car and fit spring

Then replace wheel

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Step 7

Jack up the other side of the car and replace the other rear spring

Step 8

Jack up the front of one side of the car

Remove Wheel

Step 9

Using spring compressors

Put one on each side of the spring

Tighten each compressor a little bit at a time keeping the spring even

Tighten until the spring can rattle about and feels loose

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Step 10

Locate 3 strut bolts in engine bay

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Step 11

Remove 2 of the nuts and loosen the third

13mm Ratchet Spanner

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Step 12

Undo brake hose mounting clip

10mm Ratchet Spanner

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Step 13

Undo the bolt attaching the drop link to the shock

15mm Ratchet Spanner

5mm Allen Key

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Step 14

Undo the 2 bolts attatching the shock to the hub

18mm Socket

15mm Socket/15mm Ratchet Spanner

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Step 15

Undo the remaining nut in the engine bay

13mm Ratchet Spanner

Push down the hub

The shock should now just fall out

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Step 16

Undo the bolt holding the strut together

18mm Ring Spanner

6mm Allen Key

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Step 17

Pull off Metal Top Plate, Plastic Spacer & Rubber Housing

Then loosen the spring compressors a little bit at a time keeping the spring even

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Step 18

Compress new spring to the same length the old one was compressed to

Put the spring on the shock

Replace Rubber Housing, Plastic Spacer & Metal Top Plate

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Step 19

Replace nut on the the stud

18mm Ring Spanner

6mm Allen Key

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Step 20

Put strut back in place and replace the 3 nuts in the engine bay

13mm Ratchet Spanner

Put an axle stand under the lower arm

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Step 21

Lower trolley jack slowly until the bolt attaching the drop link to the shock lines up with the hole

Replace the nut

15mm Ratchet Spanner

5mm Allen Key

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Step 22

Replace the 2 bolts attacthing the strut to the hub

Replace the bolt fixing the brake hose in place

Remove the spring compressors

Then replace Wheel

Step 23

Do the same to the other side

Note the spring compressors do not need to be put on the front springs until the shocks have been removed from the car

stef123 likes this

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Excellent! I bet a few have been looking for something like this. nice one.

Only thing i would have done differently is compressing the spring, you should be able to remove and install the shock without the need to compress it.

the 2 bolts at the bottom of the strut attaching it to the steering knuckle, is one of those a camber bolt?

cheers

stef

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But then there is tension on the all the bolts you need to remove.

Was my first time doing it so though better be safe than sorry lol.

Thanks for advice though.

Having the 2 bolts holds the hub at the right angle so I presume it's to do with camber

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But then there is tension on the all the bolts you need to remove.

Was my first time doing it so though better be safe than sorry lol.

Thanks for advice though.

Having the 2 bolts holds the hub at the right angle so I presume it's to do with camber

So I guess you don't have the car under warranty right?

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Well it is until September

I guess I will have to go to ford for the fitting...right?

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Or to an approved garage I think

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Did you get your wheels checked by a garage after doing this? Nice guide for anybody willing to do this task :)

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Or to an approved garage I think

Yes, probably the also accept this option...

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But then there is tension on the all the bolts you need to remove.

Was my first time doing it so though better be safe than sorry lol.

Thanks for advice though.

Having the 2 bolts holds the hub at the right angle so I presume it's to do with camber

with the strut still in place uncompressed the lower arm will drop a few inches away from it so there shouldn't be any tension on the bolts.

I only ask about the bolts holding the hub as one of them may be a cam bolt to set the camber?

all the best,

stef

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Did you get your wheels checked by a garage after doing this? Nice guide for anybody willing to do this task :)

Wheels?! :S

Will get my tracking done in a few weeks

with the strut still in place uncompressed the lower arm will drop a few inches away from it so there shouldn't be any tension on the bolts.

I only ask about the bolts holding the hub as one of them may be a cam bolt to set the camber?

all the best,

stef

Ah right, that would of saved some time lol

THey set camber but don't adjust it

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Dose changing your springs to ebach affect your warranty if you do it your self

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Dose changing your springs to ebach affect your warranty if you do it your self

Most likely will affect the warranty.

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Did my instructions help much mate? Also, I agree with the compressors comment earlier, fitting them when unit is on car is pointless and more hassle.

I'm actually really surprised you took the rear wheel off. Just jack it right up and use the weight of the alloy to help lower rear arm regardless of whether u use a mate to stand on it or use compressors for rears.

I would also recommend having a separate.scissor jack for raising the disc when refitting the droplink, reason for this is coz a lot of trolley jacks don't allow slow controlled releases, and could easily lead to !Removed! up the car if u done it wrong. Just scissor jack under the disc, being careful until you can fit drop link back on.

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Yer they did help mate.. Thanks for that

I agree also, just didn't know at the time and wanted to be safe rather than sorry

I took the rear wheel off because I was on my own and with the wheel off I could put weight on the hub while moving the spring in to place

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eibech are a ford approved company so it shouldnt affect the warrenty... but does this also apply for coilovers or is it a completely different story??

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eibech are a ford approved company so it shouldnt affect the warrenty... but does this also apply for coilovers or is it a completely different story??

The fact is, if you fit them yourself, you void your warranty. You need an Eibach Approved fitter to keep your warranty intact. Namely a Ford garage.

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Well in on the guide mate. However I might get it fitted by a pro as Im no car expert.

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Wow, fantastic guide. I am a complete rookie at car mods and have been blasting this forum with silly questions lol but this guide (WITH PICTURES :)) is amazing.

I mybe just give it a go on my mk6

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Wow, fantastic guide. I am a complete rookie at car mods and have been blasting this forum with silly questions lol but this guide (WITH PICTURES :)) is amazing.

I mybe just give it a go on my mk6

IIRC the front setup is a bit different on the mk6. on the mk7 the struts are bolted to the steering knuckle but on the mk6 they are fitted into the steering knuckle. bit more of a PITA on the mk6 but still quite easy, especially if you open up the split where the pinch bolt goes through to clamp the strut, there are a few tools out there for doing this but a chisel usually works.

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i take it if you get this done by ford or approved dealer then you warranty is still valid then. i only ask because i have a year and a half remaining on mine and im itching to start modding it

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i take it if you get this done by ford or approved dealer then you warranty is still valid then. i only ask because i have a year and a half remaining on mine and im itching to start modding it

Correct :)

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as a qulified ford tech and for safety concerns i dont recomend using spiral spring clamps of that nature as ive seen first hand them slipping off and putting a man in hospital for near 2 years because the spring hit him up the face. secondly i dont reccomend fitting lowering springs without lowered shocks as when the rear axel drops to full relaise the spring can jump out of the spring seats and then the wheel pushes through the top of the arch,also ford only warrents a car that has the matching lowered/shortened shocks fitted at the same time,doesnt have to be ford fits them but a qulified ford tech can fit them outside of a ford garage too. brake and suspension mods should not be atempted by somone that has not enough experiance as at the end of the day life is worth more than damage.

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