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Registration Plate Bolt Threaded Help Please!

reg plate threaded bolt stuck registration number

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#1 reppiz

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 03:56 PM

More bad luck! I'm sorting out registrations, private plate to standard and I discover one of the bolts is threaded on the existing registration plate. So, a closer inspection to remove the boot door panel, no problem and I've done that dozens of times is the Golfs as the wiper motors always seem to die BUT its completely threaded, it just goes round and round and round..

I can't cut it because a saw blade won't fit under the head (I have around 1.5mm max play) then it will leave the rest of the screw stuck in the hole and I'd have to battle trying to get it out with molegrips.

Also there's a metal wedge that appears to be glued with some type of foam that prevents you from getting to the female bit the screw goes into, however I did manage to get some molegrips attached but even giving it full force the screw is well and truly threaded :angry:

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#2 dezwez

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 04:02 PM

cant you drill it

#3 reppiz

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 04:11 PM

What like? Holding the mole grips inside the boot and drilling outside? I could try but it really doesn't want to budge, I might try it though

#4 Stoney871

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 04:18 PM

I had this problem when i changed the plates on my car.
The rear plates screw into a metal plug that is welded to the back of the boot panel, someone had used big screws and mine were spinning as i'd tried forcing the screw out.
The metal plugs had come loose and were stopping me from removing them.
In the end i had to pull the plugs through the panel causing a slight splaying of the hole and then tapped the edges flat so as to make the surface level again.
To reattach the plate i then filled the hole with rubber compound to stop leaks and used plastic plate bolts which gripped into the compound.
I could have just filled the holes and reattached the plate with sticky pads but as the plate area is slightly contoured i felt that the pads would not hold properly.
I found it impossible to get to the back of the panel due to the bracing behind it, the most i could reach in was finger tips just touching the holes.
If i could have reached i would have used the nuts on the ends of the plastic bolts.
You may be able to get the nuts on with long nose pliers but it is very hit and miss and not a little bit fiddly / frustrating.

#5 Preee

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 04:18 PM

if you start with a very small drill bit and then work your way up

#6 reppiz

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 04:23 PM

So drill it out starting with a small drill bit? :unsure:

#7 jeebowhite

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 05:28 PM

other than that, buy a screw extractor kit, it drills into the screw, creating a new grip in the head so that you can simply twist and pull the screw out.

#8 reppiz

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 07:42 PM

other than that, buy a screw extractor kit, it drills into the screw, creating a new grip in the head so that you can simply twist and pull the screw out.

Just looking at these, I'm sure I've got a few lying around. Right, I will get on it and get a few pics up, cheers all

#9 salsheikh

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 10:20 PM

worst case scenario, break the number plate off and attach the new numberplate by drilling new holes in a different location leaving the old screws where they are.

#10 Stoney871

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 10:36 PM

worst case scenario, break the number plate off and attach the new numberplate by drilling new holes in a different location leaving the old screws where they are.

Only problem with that is the original holes are slightly raised from the surface so the plate would not sit flush and secure.
I thought about sticking the plate on with tabs but didn't due to this reason.
Beware when using screw extractors, that's exactly what i did and resulted in shearing the whole screw channel off the bodywork.
I did toy with trying these as they appear to offer multiple fixing points and can be modified in the area of the existing screws so as to avoid high spots or jammed in screws.
Look quite tidy too.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item336cdd2726

Or if you do knack the fixings and want something more standard - use these to replace the sockets if you can reach them.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item256adfb420

#11 reppiz

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Posted 27 January 2012 - 08:43 AM

Only problem with that is the original holes are slightly raised from the surface so the plate would not sit flush and secure.
I thought about sticking the plate on with tabs but didn't due to this reason.
Beware when using screw extractors, that's exactly what i did and resulted in shearing the whole screw channel off the bodywork.
I did toy with trying these as they appear to offer multiple fixing points and can be modified in the area of the existing screws so as to avoid high spots or jammed in screws.
Look quite tidy too.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item336cdd2726

Or if you do knack the fixings and want something more standard - use these to replace the sockets if you can reach them.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item256adfb420


Cheers Stoney, wish me luck I'm gonna have a go at it today at some point!!

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