• Join Premium & Save
      Join Premium & Save
    • Huge Range of Ford Parts
      Huge Range of Ford Parts
    • Share Your Car Experience
      Share Your Car Experience
    • Get Your Club gear
      Get Your Club gear
    • Savings Up to 15% Off For Members
      Savings Up to 15% Off For Members
    • 1000's Of Fords For Sale
      1000's Of Fords For Sale


reppiz

Registration Plate Bolt Threaded Help Please!

11 posts in this topic

More bad luck! I'm sorting out registrations, private plate to standard and I discover one of the bolts is threaded on the existing registration plate. So, a closer inspection to remove the boot door panel, no problem and I've done that dozens of times is the Golfs as the wiper motors always seem to die BUT its completely threaded, it just goes round and round and round..

I can't cut it because a saw blade won't fit under the head (I have around 1.5mm max play) then it will leave the rest of the screw stuck in the hole and I'd have to battle trying to get it out with molegrips.

Also there's a metal wedge that appears to be glued with some type of foam that prevents you from getting to the female bit the screw goes into, however I did manage to get some molegrips attached but even giving it full force the screw is well and truly threaded :angry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

cant you drill it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What like? Holding the mole grips inside the boot and drilling outside? I could try but it really doesn't want to budge, I might try it though

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had this problem when i changed the plates on my car.

The rear plates screw into a metal plug that is welded to the back of the boot panel, someone had used big screws and mine were spinning as i'd tried forcing the screw out.

The metal plugs had come loose and were stopping me from removing them.

In the end i had to pull the plugs through the panel causing a slight splaying of the hole and then tapped the edges flat so as to make the surface level again.

To reattach the plate i then filled the hole with rubber compound to stop leaks and used plastic plate bolts which gripped into the compound.

I could have just filled the holes and reattached the plate with sticky pads but as the plate area is slightly contoured i felt that the pads would not hold properly.

I found it impossible to get to the back of the panel due to the bracing behind it, the most i could reach in was finger tips just touching the holes.

If i could have reached i would have used the nuts on the ends of the plastic bolts.

You may be able to get the nuts on with long nose pliers but it is very hit and miss and not a little bit fiddly / frustrating.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if you start with a very small drill bit and then work your way up

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So drill it out starting with a small drill bit? :unsure:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

other than that, buy a screw extractor kit, it drills into the screw, creating a new grip in the head so that you can simply twist and pull the screw out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

other than that, buy a screw extractor kit, it drills into the screw, creating a new grip in the head so that you can simply twist and pull the screw out.

Just looking at these, I'm sure I've got a few lying around. Right, I will get on it and get a few pics up, cheers all

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

worst case scenario, break the number plate off and attach the new numberplate by drilling new holes in a different location leaving the old screws where they are.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

worst case scenario, break the number plate off and attach the new numberplate by drilling new holes in a different location leaving the old screws where they are.

Only problem with that is the original holes are slightly raised from the surface so the plate would not sit flush and secure.

I thought about sticking the plate on with tabs but didn't due to this reason.

Beware when using screw extractors, that's exactly what i did and resulted in shearing the whole screw channel off the bodywork.

I did toy with trying these as they appear to offer multiple fixing points and can be modified in the area of the existing screws so as to avoid high spots or jammed in screws.

Look quite tidy too.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item336cdd2726

Or if you do knack the fixings and want something more standard - use these to replace the sockets if you can reach them.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-FORD-ESCORT-RS-COSWORTH-NUMBER-PLATE-PLUGS-SET-/160706835488?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item256adfb420

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Only problem with that is the original holes are slightly raised from the surface so the plate would not sit flush and secure.

I thought about sticking the plate on with tabs but didn't due to this reason.

Beware when using screw extractors, that's exactly what i did and resulted in shearing the whole screw channel off the bodywork.

I did toy with trying these as they appear to offer multiple fixing points and can be modified in the area of the existing screws so as to avoid high spots or jammed in screws.

Look quite tidy too.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item336cdd2726

Or if you do knack the fixings and want something more standard - use these to replace the sockets if you can reach them.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item256adfb420

Cheers Stoney, wish me luck I'm gonna have a go at it today at some point!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now