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Pidu

Guide Fitting Cruise Control Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 And Ford C-Max

763 posts in this topic

I have pulled out the stalk and took a few photo's. I recon that these push buttons will have a polarity...

So I have the following: this is the switch before scribbling on it...

IMAG0273_zps1c227af6.jpg

And hear are my scribbles, I believe I have circled the negative poles with Black and the Positives with Red... I wonder if I have picked these out properly...

post-10869-0-04587000-1384264638_thumb.p

So, how does it look? have I done it wrong? :P

I am wondering if this is the best way to do it?

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I tried to "Read the firmware from PCM to BIN file" and I get the following error. My ELM unit seems to be working at 500000. That is when I leave it on auto select. If I uncheck the auto select box, it will not work at 500000

post-36281-0-06272400-1384277406_thumb.j

Edit: I hadn't chosen the correct PCM type. I have selected the correct one and it is reading as I type this (on my phone, not the laptop)

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New problem

I "Read the firmware from PCM to BIN file", took 11 minutes and saved it to my HDD

I then go back to the PCM configuration screen. None of the settings from the PCM are pre-filled on this screen. I click "Read from PCM" and they load. I then click the "Integrated Speed Control" checkbox and save the changed VID-block to my HDD

I then go back to the second page of the procedures screen but when I click "Load firmware from PHF/BIN file" a box pops up but and looks for PCMconfig file but it can't be seen. Only the PCM calibration file can be seen.

post-36281-0-82646000-1384280049_thumb.j

If I manually go into the folder (outside of the ELMconfig program) I can see the 2 files I saved

post-36281-0-46051100-1384280318_thumb.j

What now?

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The latest versions of ELMconfig that support the 2.5l engine don't have the READ/LOAD VID block buttons, I think this could be causing me issues

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That could well be part of the problem, I dont think there is much you can do until its supported.

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That could well be part of the problem, I dont think there is much you can do until its supported.

Oh well, just have to wait. I've fitted the steering wheel so will just update the software when it is available.

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Oh well, just have to wait. I've fitted the steering wheel so will just update the software when it is available.

.

.

Will be keeping my eye on this as I would like this too :) then I can be number 2 that has cc fitted on a ST

I tried enabling this on the works IDS but the ST's PCM does not support speed control :(

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Just tested the buttons with the rear windscreen heater 'trick'.

All buttons were detected by the car.

The rear heater does not work now though lol. When I press the button it now flashes the indicators/does the wipers/flashes the full beam/headlight washers

I have pulled the KAM fuse to see if that resets it

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Just tested the buttons with the rear windscreen heater 'trick'.

All buttons were detected by the car.

The rear heater does not work now though lol. When I press the button it now flashes the indicators/does the wipers/flashes the full beam/headlight washers

I have pulled the KAM fuse to see if that resets it

just hold the button in for a while it should go off

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just hold the button in for a while it should go off

Put KAM fuse back in and all is well

I just PM'ed you over on STOC

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Put KAM fuse back in and all is well

I just PM'ed you over on STOC

got it and replied bud

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seem to have a bit of an issue, I can find 120 and 180 ohms, but I cant find 300 (only 330) and cant find 510 (only 560).

I am beginning to think this is less likely to happen lol!

Carlos, as you modified your stalk, would you be willing to send me a photo of your handywork inside the stalk adapter?

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seem to have a bit of an issue, I can find 120 and 180 ohms, but I cant find 300 (only 330) and cant find 510 (only 560).

Use two 150 ohm resistors in series for 300ohm and two 255 ohm for 510?

Then again, most likely you can use standard 301 ohm and 511 ohm resistors, should be well inside tolerances I bet (and putting two 1% resistors in series could be more off than one 1% which value is off only by 1 ohm to begin with).

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eventually found some, would need to go to two seperate sellers, but at 99p for 100 I cant complain I guess lol

so does my wiring idea of the positive and negatives look correct on my pictures? I keep seeing that there is no polarity, but as I can see particular lines on the PCB I do wonder lol

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eventually found some, would need to go to two seperate sellers, but at 99p for 100 I cant complain I guess lol

Dude, there's no point to drive from dealer to dealer and burn gas trying to find some kind of special resistors when they are not required :) In electronics you will usually pick nearest standard value for requested calculated value when dealing with resistors unless dealing with something quite special.

I highly suspect Ford would have used some kind of ultra high precision resistors with extraordinary temperature coefficient. I mean, here in Finland it can be -40C and in tropic it can be +50C and cruise still works - resistors will change value a lot at these temperatures...

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so does my wiring idea of the positive and negatives look correct on my pictures? I keep seeing that there is no polarity, but as I can see particular lines on the PCB I do wonder lol

Simple push buttons do not have polarity nor do resistors have polarity. You do not need to worry about negative and positive wires (with this circuit).

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Thankfully I have more sanity than to try and take it to the dealers to install it lol :D

I have found all the resistors I need on ebay, now the only thing I do need to check is one small detail.

on the russians website, they show you that you can bridge the connections (http://ffclub.ru/topic/3475/# - Picture below)

up58297-post-29-1215455963.jpg

I dont see though how they would have wired in the resistors? unless of course the resistors that are on the circuit board are in fact the resistors I need to use?

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up58297-post-29-1215455963.jpg

I dont see though how they would have wired in the resistors? unless of course the resistors that are on the circuit board are in fact the resistors I need to use?

That Russian picture is too low resolution and has too much compression artifacts to tell. But most likely they have used existing SMD resistors...

One could draw schematics from PCB and decide what kind of connections would be neeed...

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I might draw a diagram and state the components on there if that helps :D

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Well I decided begger it! lol, I am going with making from scratch. Will probably end up abusing the stereo remote.

So bought ten switches, 10m of wire, solder, a remote control to abuse the buttons, 20 of each resistor and a "prototype board" so that I can test before destroying... all for under £9

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Sorry for late response, i was on work trip to germany, and the hotel had no wifi (what is this, 1960's ?!)

For the resistors, the 511 is ok, and 300 you can make from the allready existing 120 and 180 resistors :)

I can take piture inside my remote tomorrow, but the awesome paint picture that i did shows same, much more clearly since its kinda messy looking inside the remote when you have the resistors going from button leg to button leg, and the jumpwires going on to another legs.

It is possible to use the existing connections on the board, but i didnt bother to plan it that long. I just used stanley to cut the conections 2mm away from the button legs, and then used the resistors and jumpwires to do the connection.

Some pictures:

Here you can see the button legs, marked whit sharpie

IMG 0398

Here is picture of the original connections cutted out:

IMG 0399

Now, here is picture of the connections. DO NOT COPY THIS ONE!!! THIS IS WRONG! This pic is from the first version that i made, and it does not have that "looping". This picture is just to show you how i packed the resistors inside the remote, and what i mean whit the jumpwires (brown ones)

IMG 0400

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This is doing my head in.

The car can "see" the buttons as I have tested them with the rear heater switch "trick"

I have all the wiring and switches present.

I have activated cruise in GEM, HEC and PCM with ELMConfig 0.2.11c

Could there be a fuse or relay that I need?

Or is it only possible to do this in IDS?

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This is doing my head in.

The car can "see" the buttons as I have tested them with the rear heater switch "trick"

I have all the wiring and switches present.

I have activated cruise in GEM, HEC and PCM with ELMConfig 0.2.11c

Could there be a fuse or relay that I need?

Or is it only possible to do this in IDS?

Ford buttons or self made? I noticed that the GEM beebs on the rear window heater trick, even if the buttons were set up all wrong.

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