Octavian Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 Salutare tuturor! Încerc să activez în PCM Cruise control și îmi apare acest mesaj. " There is non-empty VID block found in the PCM module. To write a new VID-block PCM module must be reprogrammed first" Nu procedez corect? Ma ajuta cineva cu un sfat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Octavian Posted February 6, 2022 Share Posted February 6, 2022 Pe 31.01.2022 la ora 15:38, Octavian a spus: Salutare tuturor! Încerc să activez în PCM Cruise control și îmi apare acest mesaj. „În modulul PCM sa găsit un bloc VID nevid. Pentru a scrie un nou bloc VID, modulul PCM trebuie mai întâi reprogramat” Nu procedez corect? Ma ajuta cineva cu un sfat? Hi all! I'm trying to activate control in PCM Cruise Control and this message appears. "A non-empty VID block was found in the PCM module. To write a new VID block, the PCM must be reprogrammed first. " Isn't that right? Can anyone help me with any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gemis Posted February 11, 2022 Share Posted February 11, 2022 Hello! I have a ford focus mk2 1.6 of 2005 My pcm is 4M5T 14A073 AC does cruise control enter? There were no cables and I put 10 and 18 in 4 and 5. Led in the instruments there. There are switches on the pedals. I have put a steering wheel genuine with cruise control buttons. I do the test with the rear window defog button and it does not recognize them it does not beep. What could be wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leewesley2371 Posted February 28, 2022 Share Posted February 28, 2022 Hi, I was wondering if the mk4 Mondeo steering wheel would be compatible on the mk2/2.5 Focus? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles P Gallon Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 Hello Everyone. I am going to try getting it working on my 2005 LX 1.6 110 TDCi. I am buying the wheel tomorrow. my GEM number is 4AO73-BF https://www.dropbox.com/s/9bzspq4zudagecb/20220310_190603.jpg?dl=0 My Car has no wires from to pins 10 and 18 on the GEM, but I plan to run them down. (any tips on what wire to buy or use?). https://www.dropbox.com/s/hbtctzlxp51ktj4/20220310_194817.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/yu4xtf9bgdsicyy/20220310_194853.jpg?dl=0 I have not yet looked behind steering wheel to see if connector present. I don't have the CC LED on my Dash https://www.dropbox.com/s/68wxmjexvb4xmu0/20220310_211331.jpg?dl=0 I have downloaded ELM config and have a windows 10 64 bit laptop to use. I plan to buy a modified ELM 327 USB adaptor from eBay. The seller assures me it will do 500k speed and talk to the PCM for CC enabling. I have seen for sale a GEM that already has cruise control enabled on eBay for nearly the same price as the ELM Adaptor - its a -DF unit. Does anyone have any opinion on that as a route to "enabling" cruise control rather than buying a modified ELM and programming it myself? Thanks for any help and advice. I will post here what happens if i get it working or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles P Gallon Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 Here are some pictures of the terminals. These came from the old steering wheel. The plug is connector C103 which goes into the GEM. Pins 10 and 18 are marked. I will upload some more pics now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles P Gallon Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 (edited) And here are some more photos. The yellow and blue wires in a circle are what I have ordered from a popular site to order things from from China I found them under "Cruise control wires for fiesta 2013", they seem to have the correct terminals on the ends. The other two pics are for the aftermarket cc buttons that are available from same site - perhaps useful if you don't want to change your steering wheel like i did - these sets of buttons come with the cruise control wire that has the terminals on. Heres a picture of connector c103 from the bottom again showing pins 10 and 18. Next are two screengrabs of the connector at the other end of the cc wire we are discussing. This connector is just underneath the steering wheel and on my car the cruise control line down to c103 at the GEM is missing, hence all this terminal and wire searching. Still on that connector here the guy has used orange and black wire as he didnt have any white and brown. The terminals go into sockets 4 and 5 (not totally sure which way round). The circuit diagram thing is to help locate connector C103 on the little fuse board in passenger MK2 UK focus. I hope all this helps someone! I'll update once ive fitted the wire and "flashed the BIOS" of the car to the new "Firmware" (IT Guy) aka activated cruise control via ELM. Edited April 25, 2022 by Miles P Gallon I added that pins 4 and 5 are for the wheel end connector Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles P Gallon Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 On 2/11/2022 at 2:50 PM, gemis said: Hello! I have a ford focus mk2 1.6 of 2005 My pcm is 4M5T 14A073 AC does cruise control enter? There were no cables and I put 10 and 18 in 4 and 5. Led in the instruments there. There are switches on the pedals. I have put a steering wheel genuine with cruise control buttons. I do the test with the rear window defog button and it does not recognize them it does not beep. What could be wrong? Hello 🙂 Have you done the part where you connect up a laptop to the cars computers and re-program them to have cruise control enabled? That's the only bit missing I can see in your description. Thanks Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles P Gallon Posted May 11, 2022 Share Posted May 11, 2022 It works! I have cruise control! GEM Number ending in BF, TDCi 110ps, manual 2005, MK2. So it is possible for a BF to work. The key was getting the pins from the Chinese auction site they were listed as for Ford Fiesta, but I cut and shunted them using Halfords premium speaker cable to extend them. I soldered the joints and then used heat shrink tubing to isolate them. I ran the cable up and over the Stereo compartment, under the front vents, with the aid of a flexible magnet and the cable was taped to it. Took the glove box out at the other end and managed to hook the cable and pull it through this picture shows underneath and to the left of the steering column. The flexible magnet has disappeared up into a gap over the stereo area. I plugged the wires into the steering wheel connector (battery off car for 10 mins prior due to airbag) and the GEM. I did the button test by holding rear window demist and it saw the buttons! I test drove it and tried CC but it did not work - as expected. Next step was to reprogram the modules. The re-programming was easy. I spent 30 mins getting the laptop to see the USB adaptor, then getting that to see the car. In the end I had to clean launch ELM as Admin, then plug in the USB adaptor to JUST the USB port of the laptop, THEN plug the other end into the ODB. After that it would scan and operate at 500000 rate required for PCM reprogram. Once that was done the re-program took about 3 mins total. I have seen videos where the reprogram takes 5-45 mins to read, and read that to write it can take 19 mins, so I had a laptop with full battery AND a mains extension to the house, and the car battery was fine and full too. In the end it took 10 seconds to read each category and as long to write them back (even the PCM module). It was so fast I was worried it hadn't worked but it had! I test drove it and CC works perfectly. Next step for me is the dash from a MK2.5 with CC LED present as my dash does not have the LED. Thanks to everyone here for the information. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bantam_dave21 Posted May 17, 2022 Share Posted May 17, 2022 Hiya I’ve dropped this in for sale but thought I’d pop it here too…. I have a left over steering wheel as above - was going to fit cruise control and didn’t/aren’t going to. I believe its leather and obviously the model with cruise buttons, 4 spoke - leather in pretty good condition although clearly not ‘as new’. Just thought I’d pop something on here prior to eBay if anyone was looking at performing the mod… Based Worksop, Nottinghamshire but also work in Kent 3-4 days per week if of interest. Drop me a PM if of any use to anyone…. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles P Gallon Posted June 6, 2022 Share Posted June 6, 2022 On 2/11/2022 at 2:50 PM, gemis said: Hello! I have a ford focus mk2 1.6 of 2005 My pcm is 4M5T 14A073 AC does cruise control enter? There were no cables and I put 10 and 18 in 4 and 5. Led in the instruments there. There are switches on the pedals. I have put a steering wheel genuine with cruise control buttons. I do the test with the rear window defog button and it does not recognize them it does not beep. What could be wrong? Hi, do you get continuity when you test it with a multi meter? I would disconnect battery, remove steering wheel and test continuity from behind the airbag down to connector C103. Check the pins on the GEM aren't bent. Aside from continuity test, I'd also look at resistance changing when you press a button. I believe the way the buttons operate on just two wires is that each button has a different value resistor on them. That way the GEM computer can tell which of 5 buttons is being pressed without 10 wires being needed. You could test this behind the airbag by putting resistance meter across the wheel connectors and pressing each button in turn? Or swap it for a different know working buttons wheel temporarily to prove your buttons are ok/faulty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikeChimp Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 Hi Unfortunately when I was writing to the PCM, it got to 'erasing memory' and then elmconfig crashed. Probably as I followed this guide here which suggested clicking save calibration data only. Ford Focus MK2 / C-max Installing Cruise Control and Coding - YouTube Basically I thought I had bricked the PCM but I got onto the elmconfig site and downloaded the correct calibration for my car and it did get my car running and I've got cruise control. However when you start it up you get 'Engine Malfunction' and the little red 'i' light stays on along with ESD (stability) light and I'm not convinced the ABS is working as ABS module gives a 'U2202-E0' configuration error. The car runs fine - I've just done 400 miles in it. For some reason I don't have the PCM config file saved (although I do have a screenshot of that screen). If I type in the VIN number elmconfig can't 'Load from as built' I do have the original 'calibration.bin file' that I read from the PCM but not the config. elmconfig really didnt like this bin file which is why I had to use the php file from the website On the PCM config page, if I 'read' the information then I get 'There is no VID block in this PCM' Can I have some help, where can I get the PCM config file from, how do I build it form scratch? Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 Hello Tim. I'm unfamiliar with the use of elmconfig so can offer no advice on using that to help you recover. One of the other members like @TomsFocus may know the answer about using elmconfig. The situation you have should be recoverable using FORScan and a good ELM327 connection lead. FORScan has a tab at the bottom of the screen 'AB' which provided you're connected to the vehicle and the laptop has internet access, it will automatically download the 'As Built' file from Ford. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikeChimp Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 I've realised using the 'calibration only' PCM .bin file that I did have saved from the original, if I load this into elmconfig then I can switch to the configuration tab and the data is there, I've saved this config to a file. When I first tried to write the read and saved calibration .bin file, back to PCM it said different version than expected. I think it’s just the VID info that needs to be written to the PCM from the config file. If I write this config to PCM will it write the missing VID block in? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikeChimp Posted September 6, 2022 Share Posted September 6, 2022 Just to let you know. I used my saved calibration .bin file to fill in the missing info on the config page. Saved this to a file and wrote it to the pcm. all worked fine. It wrote the missing VID block to the pcm and no engine or abs warning lights. i still can’t get rid of oil service light, tried the holding brake and accelerator down when you switch ignition on any ideas, I did a search for it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Botus Posted September 19, 2022 Share Posted September 19, 2022 this was the thread I used when successfully getting cruise on mine - whilst this one is great there are elements of the confusion missing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeInAShed Posted May 15, 2023 Share Posted May 15, 2023 Using this thread i sucessfully added cruise control on my 07 Ford Focus with a -BJ GEM! Cost me £50 for the steering wheel and £15 for a cheap programmer off eBay. (Plus a days work). Points to note: Be extremley careful when removing the wheel that the clockspring does not rotate, i was not careful and it had rotated one rotation, when i went to full lock, it snapped the ribbon cable. This make the airbag and horn not function. Luckily, i took the clockspring mechanism apart and re-soldered it back together. It Works now but was pretty stressful at the time. Reprogramming the PCM module took a long tme. 2 hours to read the data and a bit less to re-write the new CC config. Make sure to have a full day. I started this late in the afternoon and had to work late into the night to get it done. The cheap programmes are a bit of a faff to get working, on mine i had to select specific baud rates to get it to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erdemisler Posted May 29, 2023 Share Posted May 29, 2023 I want to activate cruise control on my car (Ford Focus 2009, 1.6 TDCi) using the device in the photo. I have watched many videos, but I couldn't find any documentation or video showing how to wire it with this product. I cannot pull a cable from the steering wheel to this device because the cable will break. Can you explain how it should be connected? I am sending you the attached photos of my car for your assistance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted May 29, 2023 Share Posted May 29, 2023 It doesn't fit on the steering wheel. It mounts on the side of the steering column. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Botus Posted August 14, 2023 Share Posted August 14, 2023 might relate to the Russian guys that chopped up remotes and made their own buttons for the three spoke steering wheel if so its not rocket science - they are just connecting the radio remote to the wires that the 4 spoke steering wheel cruise buttons connect to - actually might be a great idea as voice control is a waste of space and the steering buttons are hideous - you can't even find them at night Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinematic Posted September 5, 2023 Share Posted September 5, 2023 Hello. I have a problem with CC on a focus mk2 2006 (pre-facelift) 1.8 kkda 1.8tdci 116hp manual transmission I have installed CC with elm config and placed buttons with resistors in the radio control joystick on the left and it worked great for some time. But i had issues with one of the buttons and it turned out i had a bad soldering on one of my custom buttons. So i did soldering directly on the button without disconnecting my car batter (it was a mistake) and there was a click sound like blowing fuse and cabin light went off for a while and then came back. On the following drive i realized that CC stopped working entirely. Now i checked all my fuses and bought another set of buttons but nothing seems to work now. The error i am getting all the time is P0578 Ford Cruise Control Multi-Function Input A Circuit Stuck I haven't checked only clutch and brake pedal switches but i think they are mechanical and have no electronical components or fuses. I cant find any fuse related to the CC in the manual but checked all regardless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted September 5, 2023 Share Posted September 5, 2023 58 minutes ago, kinematic said: So i did soldering directly on the button without disconnecting my car batter (it was a mistake) and there was a click sound like blowing fuse and cabin light went off for a while and then came back. On the following drive i realized that CC stopped working entirely. Now i checked all my fuses and bought another set of buttons but nothing seems to work now. The error i am getting all the time is P0578 Ford Cruise Control Multi-Function Input A Circuit Stuck I expect that you have short-circuited the input for Cruise Control on the GEM which could prove to fatal and require a replacement GEM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinematic Posted September 6, 2023 Share Posted September 6, 2023 Thank you unofix. Next thing I am going to do is taking off the gem module and looking for burned circuit or electronic component there. But before that I discovered something weird to me. I have removed black clutch switch and brake pedal 2 switches - blue and black. All switches have pins moving in opposite direction to the pedals. So when clutch pedal is pressed - it's switch pin is being released. And in this position the switch is closing the circuit which corresponds to the functionality of "OFF" CC button. When clutch pedal is released it brings the switch pin inside and circuit is open meaning that it doesn't send off signal to GEM module. Weirdly enough when I tested 2 brake switches. The black one is always open and doesn't give continuity on the multimeter regardless of the pin's position. The blue one is always closed and gives continuity regardless of the pin's position. Is this normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted September 6, 2023 Share Posted September 6, 2023 50 minutes ago, kinematic said: it's switch pin is being released. And in this position the switch is closing the circuit which corresponds to the functionality of "OFF" CC button. When clutch pedal is released it brings the switch pin inside and circuit is open meaning that it doesn't send off signal to GEM module. That sounds correct. 51 minutes ago, kinematic said: I tested 2 brake switches. The black one is always open and doesn't give continuity on the multimeter regardless of the pin's position. The blue one is always closed and gives continuity regardless of the pin's position. Is this normal? That would not seem correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinematic Posted September 6, 2023 Share Posted September 6, 2023 This is the black switch placed to the clutch pedal. Pin is released when the clutch pedal is pressed and circuit is closed. (1st picture) And those 2 are the brake pedal switches. But the black one is always open (no continuity on the multimeter regardless of the pin's position). And the blue one is always closed (permanent continuity regardless of the pin's position). I also detached the gem module to make visual inspection of its component and circuits. Before that I've detached the positive plug of the car battery. Also made a photo of the connectors placement before this procedure to be able to put back everything together afterwards. To open the box you have to use flat screwdriver to make some space and put something to hold the inner clips (i used cut pieces made from old shopping card). There are 3 cross screws holding the electronic board inside (already removed on the picture). After that the box pop up open quite easily: In order to take the board out of the box you have to remove the fuses and relays as they are the only thing holding it inside. Also took a picture of the fuse and relay setup. So far i see no signs of burned elements or circuits even under magnifier. I will try to disassemble brake switches later and will try to find the reason there. I just hope that the issue isnt with the PCM itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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