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Rough Idle On A 2004 2.0 Tdci


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#166 Stoney871

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Posted 08 April 2012 - 06:44 PM

Ha ha ;)

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#167 Z3 MON

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Posted 10 April 2012 - 12:08 PM

It is a good idea, but as i work in the claims and insurance industry so i know its fraud.

Not to mean i havent once considered going down that route, however if you want cover to include injectors and the like, then the vehicle has to have done less than 80,000 to buy the policy.

Unfortunatley mine has 83,000

Ill be honest, i know a lot of people are saying injectors but my gut is telling me its not, now the car go better once i put the cap on the fuel send on properly. i thinking thats just allowed for a better fuel pressure. the light has not come on for a week now despite me trying. the whole car still wobbles on idle, but the engine sound like its running even. i noticed when you !Removed! the engine down the whole car really shakes and the engine really throws its self around. also when you rev (stationary) the whole engine does appear to tilt back a fair bit more than i might have expected. however when iddling the engine rocks a bit but no more than you would expect from a big chucky diesel block.

I looked under the car as my dad turned it off but the mount low down at teh back of the engine does seem to move at all. so i first ruled out that as being an issue but now im wondering if maybe it is still knackered or maybe its one of the other engine mounts. on shutdown the whole exhaust really wobbles some lol.

#168 plumbob

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Posted 10 April 2012 - 06:59 PM

Well i would say it would be unwise to dimiss an injector issue as not being the fault, i for one have had my injectors tested and it did fail the leak of test but bad injectors dont always fail a leak off test. While speaking to someone at work i was horrified to find out that since owning the car from new (03 reg) the guy has had "TWO" sets of injectors and the car has only covered 128,000 miles. It is a very known issue with the mondeos which is why i wasn't surprised to the car park at the diesel specialist full of them.
I really think it would be worth using your super f and recoding the injectors, if it works then you have found your fault and as you already own one its a shame to not try it as its free! My plan is to do that and with any luck it will solve the idle as thats the only issue with mine and then i shall be rid of the car as soon as possible.

#169 Z3 MON

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Posted 10 April 2012 - 08:52 PM

I will give it ago but I'm struggling reading the code even with a small mirror.



#170 plumbob

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 09:31 PM

Yes it is difficult i will admit that, i didn't check it 100% i just read as far up as i could then i checked the codes on top of the engine for a part match. When i setup my super f today the codes were exactly the same as the ones i had wrote down so i am happy to use them, although i did have the same thing happen to me in regards to the car cutting out shortly after reading the codes which is an odd one.
One big difference between our two vehicles though dave is that mine has a much higher fuel pressure reading at idle and 2000 rpm, at 2000rpm i am pretty sure that mine was over 600 bar whilst at idle it was around 300-400 bar.

#171 plumbob

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Posted 16 April 2012 - 07:52 PM

Any updates dave?

#172 Z3 MON

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Posted 18 April 2012 - 06:09 AM

Hi, unfortunately no update as my brothers focus blew up some I'm a bit busy stripping that at the moment.

It seems to staying how is now, which is better than it used to be but still not right lol


#173 turbine

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 07:42 AM

In desperation I replaced the EGR valve this weekend and while I was at it meticulously checked the hose that fails for damage. Waiting to see if it helps when the ECU adapts to the new set-up.

On Jaguarforum.co.,uk theres this kid that took his chugger to a Diesel specialist who (after much diagnostics) found wiring the loom for the injection rail regulator (sensor) was damaged, as it had been rubbing against the alternator belt. This was causing the regulator to fluctuate eractically. He repaired the wiring loom and the car now runs smooth again.

I'll be back...

#174 turbine

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Posted 28 May 2012 - 09:21 AM

Wiring loom nowhere near the belt or pulleys. Not an issue.

Didn't have symptoms of boost hose split but took it off and inspected anyway. Its fine.

Put some clear plastic reinforced hose 8mm ID between filter and pump inlet.
Quite easy to suck fuel through the filter into the hose so no blockages.
On running absolutely no air bubbles at all. LP system is fine.

Running out of ideas.

#175 Z3 MON

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 07:30 PM

Hi guys,

Sorry it's been so hectic.

Striping a focus, re doing the carbs on a gsxr, And this beast as well as general maintenance on a CBr means I've been very busy.

So basically I still have the wobbly idle and the P0251 fueling issue.

My first question is: would a motorofactor fuel filter give the same symptoms as a blocked or well used fuel filter and will this cause my current issues. Basically my last mechanic changed the fuel filter (I asked for a Bosch but looked and it's not marked at all with any names).

I changed the oils and filter yesterday

I also removed the blanking plate.

The engine sounds smoother at the top but the knock seems to have moved towards the bottom, where as before it was a cold rattle at the top which has gone from the oil change/plate removable.

The knock sounds like something is Gona come through the side of the engine.

Video: http://i1172.photobu...ts/3092ed28.mp4

Bear in mind it has the belt, tensioner and pulley changed 5 months/2,500 miles ago

Now I know everyone loves to jump on the injector issue but it's not that, injectors are fine, recoded -no difference, leak off test was fine, bench test was good.

It's the not the fuel pump either as it's only the 2000-2002 modeled pump that has the issue of breaking up.

I removed and check the boost pipe on the drivers side from egr to the lower plastic pipe. Removed and was covered in oil lower down, cleaned and checked for splits an cracks - non. So have refitted and will see it it happens again but I don't think it will.

I am 99.9% it's a leak issue or fuel filter. Either a leak in fuel lines anywhere from the tank all the way into the block. Or an air leak on the boost system. But I have been thinking about it so hard my mind is going round in circles.

The next thing I'll try is a fuel filter but where do I go from their .....


#176 brooksey

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 09:44 PM

ive spent the last hour looking through all the posts and mines is the except mines done 185k i know the tensioners need doing but its the rough idle that i cant work out
really !Removed! me off now
  • cheers liam


#177 Z3 MON

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Posted 06 June 2012 - 10:08 AM

I think I'm Gona check for swarf in the box....

#178 turbine

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 09:29 AM

Took off the inlet manifold, cleaned it (again) inspected for cracks and renewed the seals.

With manifold REMOVED the car still chugs. (Got the P0100 code (MAF) as expected.)
That is not to say there ISNT an intake leak but I sincerel doubt it would cause this chugging.

Fuel pressure bounces at all speeds its just not so noticeable at high revs or under acceleration (if you discount the occasional P0251 limp mode !!)

Sprayed special engine decarb into the ports but it made no difference so it aint carbon on the valves or crowns upsetting the fuelling.

Havent given up just yet...

#179 brooksey

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 11:48 AM

aup

have you checked all your rubber breather pipes also pipes from the turbo as mine runs rough at idle could be a perished pipe and limp mode 2.5k so when turbos opened up full
which makes me thing it could be pulling in air from one of the pipes upsetting the engine
just a poke in the dark as ive tried everything else lol

cheers liam

#180 turbine

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Posted 08 June 2012 - 07:28 AM

Not found any.
Even with MAF disconnected (forced open loop control) it still chugs.

If you fix yours please post the result.

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