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Ford Focus Cc (Petrol) Heater Problem??


markw96
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Was the unit unscrewed from the dash?

It could well be just the springiness of the cable resisting bending and causing the cable to push back in.

If it was still attached, try removing the unit and see if the cable then comes out more easily.

It would certainly seem that the only thing holding the cable into the socket is the springiness of the cable itself and the angle it sits at through the dash.

I undid the screws holding the unit in, but it did not want to move easily, at that point, I tried to remove the cable, but encountered the problems mentioned. Due to the short length of

the cable, I think it would have to be removed before you could move the unit much. Your explanation of the cable pushing it back in, rather than it being pulled back in, makes a lot

of sense. I now feel rather stupid if this is the case, as if I had been brave enough to keep pulling the green connector back, it seems it would have popped out without any problem or damage! :oops: I imagined that there would be an inner and outer part to the cable, and it was an inner part that was holding it in.

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Hopefully the job will be easier now.

If I get a couple of days to myself this week I'll swap my parts over and then we'll know for sure once and for all.

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Hopefully the job will be easier now.

If I get a couple of days to myself this week I'll swap my parts over and then we'll know for sure once and for all.

Ok, so I wasn't going to tackle this job till after my holiday, but now I have the info you very kindly supplied, I was itching to try it. I had a couple of hours free this morning, plus the sun came out, so I thought lets give it a go!

I now have a plaster on my thumb, and 3 little bits of black plastic that have come from places i cannot find, but the job is now done :D

Once I had removed the radio, I pulled the green collar back as far as it would go, but it was hitting the bulkhead, and needed pushing/wriggling to get it all the way out, and as you said, it is just being pushed in by pressure from the cable at the other end. Then I disconnected the temperature control cable, this was much easier having a spare unit in my hand, as you can then see where to push with a short screwdriver or similar to disconnect the clip that holds the white plastic cable guide. It was then easy to pull the end of the cable off, and the smaller wiring connector came off easily. Unfortunately the bigger electrical connector did not want to come out, and this turned out to be the hardest part. In the end I broke a bit off the connector on the end of the wiring loom, and lost some skin off my thumb, but it still would not come out. In the end I used brute force and a screwdriver as a lever to get it off. Reasembly was a doddle after that, and the electrical connector is so tight a fit that the missing/broken clip does not seem to matter, anyway it's all sorted now.

Any questions? please fell free to ask.

Cheers.

Phil.

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Good drills sir.

A mod isn't a mod unless some swearing and blood is involved.

Just looked at my Haynes and they do say to cut the tabs on the electrical connector.

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Good drills sir.

A mod isn't a mod unless some swearing and blood is involved.

Just looked at my Haynes and they do say to cut the tabs on the electrical connector.

I think the Haynes manual is refering to replacing the fan speed control within the unit, if you look on the back, there about a dozen tabs that if you cut them, you could then remove the fan speed control switch, but I may be wrong.

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Finally fitted my blue converted dials, bit fiddly but straightforward.

The green cable does indeed just pull out, no clips or catches.

The middle cable is a bit harder, you need to rotate the dial around to the right so as to remove tension on the cable then pop off the black ring at the end of the cable from it's pin.

There is a tensioner block which pushes into the back of the dial unit which needs levering off, just pry with a blade screwdriver and it pops out.

The tricky bit is that the unit is quite snug in the dash recess and needs manoeuvring out of position, there is a small black lug that sits in a lip under the unit, I put a screwdriver between the dial unit and the lip and with a bit of levering they moved apart.

You then have to twist and turn the unit so as to move it back so you have enough room to wiggle the unit out of the dash.

Be aware that there are two small metal clips that sit over the screw mounting points, you need these as they're what the screws grip into, without them the screws won't bite and everything will be a bit wobbly.;)

You now have access to two cable connectors, one at the top for dial illumination and the large block underneath for the fan speed control which unclips quite easily.

Unfortunately I omitted to take photos while doing the job but it becomes obvious as you get into it.

Results-

DSC_0030-1.jpg

BTW, also changed the rear demister button at the same time.

One thing that's a bit of a pain is that the aircon and recirculation active lights don't seem to work, annoying but maybe I need to have another look at the pins in the connector at some point, too much time has passed to complain to the seller on eBay, ah well.

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  • 3 years later...

@markw96 - Appreciate the description and photos, I had the exact same issue with my heating.

For me, turned out the cable had disconnected completely from the dial, and had a massive kink in it. Looks like instead of feeding into its housing it bent, then bent so much the end popped off the dial connector.

Even after straightening I played around turning it back and forth and I can see it'll happen again. At least for now I have hot air!

Cheers,

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Just wanted to say thanks!   Exactly the same issue on my '09 diesel Focus - pics were great, easy fix and sure I have saved a small fortune!

AP

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