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Coolant Leak
#1
Posted 13 April 2012 - 04:44 PM
Seems I have a coolant leak. I have just topped up, its been about 3/4 weeks (I know bit long in between checks) but have discovered the coolant was just below the minimum line, no warning lights came on though.
So I have topped it up and will keep and eye on it. I have had it running and have been watching for leaks and can see none. I have checked the hoses from the coolant tank to the radiator, thermostat and see no signs of leaks either usually a white residue. What I can't see is if its a radiator leaking. Although it wasn't up to temp when I just looked.
Any ideas of what I can do to hunt this leak down. Usually they are obvious and I can see signs of it and visually see the leak.
Thanks
#2
Posted 13 April 2012 - 04:54 PM
#3
Posted 13 April 2012 - 05:04 PM
Very valid point, check to see if there is any foam at the cap, if so you have a damaged head gasket.Have you looked at the oil filler cap?
If not, then a leaking seal, radiator, coolant pipes or at the very worst case - a cracked block.
Stick cardboard under the car to see if you can find a leak location.
#4
Posted 13 April 2012 - 06:05 PM
Ok I had a check no foam thankfully on the oil filler cap. So I guess the cuplrpit lies else where.
I'll start by leaving some car underneath overnight and seeing if that helps me locate the leak.
I just wanted to ask incase this is a contributary factor if using the heating can cause the coolant to drop as in the last month it has been used quite a bit during the colder periods ?
Thanks for the help, very grateful as always.
edit:
Is it possible to be the common fault on the thermostat housing leaking from distortion ?
#5
Posted 13 April 2012 - 06:10 PM
#6
Posted 13 April 2012 - 07:04 PM
#7
Posted 14 April 2012 - 11:04 AM
Im not sure how to check the heater matrix, or where it even is ? Behind the heater switch panel ?
Carpets are dry both sides.
I put some cardboard under over night and there was nit a drop on it. Also the level has remained the same.
I drove around 20 miles this morning and it has remained exactly as I filled it.
I'll keep a close eye on it over the week to see how it goes.
I was going to take the thermostat/housing off to see if it is warped or seals are shot just to elinate it but its chucking down sadly, just to eliminate it as aoarantly ob searching the forums this can be a cause of slow leaks.
Thanks
Ps forgot to add. I should now figure out how get to this heater matrix dooodah to check the hose. Heating blows hot.
#8
Posted 15 April 2012 - 10:45 AM
So stuck some radweld in coolant topped it back up and not had an issue since to be honest and been doing a lot of miles to.
#9
Posted 15 April 2012 - 01:04 PM
I've had a good look for leaks, hoses, rad, stat, coolant tank, although forgot to check lid seal.
Beats me.
The garage I use last year on anothet vehicle said radweld is bad stuff and gets in to bearings etc but I only hear good about it tbh and might give it a go.
To add I noticed some white spotting on top of the bell housing, coincidently the stat is just about that so that's got me suspect the stat seals and or housing could be the suspect.
Although Haynes manual suggests it could be the coolant pump at fault about I have no movement on the pulley which it Saud to check.
Wondering what to do now, should I just change the stat, seals and housing (do I need to change the stat itself as my engine temp needle is rock solid) or should I change it for got measure whilst its off ?
Does anyone know what the above costs by any chance ?
Thanks for the help guys
#10
Posted 15 April 2012 - 05:25 PM
#11
Posted 15 April 2012 - 07:57 PM
Although it is a mystery how the tank emptied in the first place.
I'll keep a close eye on it and post back my findings.
#12
Posted 15 April 2012 - 08:17 PM
#13
Posted 15 April 2012 - 08:39 PM
#14
Posted 16 April 2012 - 12:34 AM
as you say its hard to spot as the bellhousing is warm take a small plate and place it so its under the thermostat housing after the engines hot and after you switch off the car check every 20mins for an hour if its dry thats not youre culprit
#15
Posted 16 April 2012 - 07:33 AM
Depends were the leak is I suppose, stuff like radweld etc don't damage anything Imho - all this stuff goes through tons of testing. Obviously best to find leak if there is one but if all the obvious places are fine (there would be obvious signs of leakage with stains etc) then its worth a shot. I used to have an Belmont and had to top it up every week without fail, chucked this stuff in and never had to top it up again in the 3 years after before it was scrapped.
More last resort action though.
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