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will689

The 0-60 Time For My 2005 1.4Tdci Is About 40 Seconds....problem?

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Let me first say that I bought my Fiesta 18 months ago. It was this slow when I bought it and I thought it was normal, however I spotted a pool of oil on the drive a few weeks ago and so did a service and discovered I only have about half a litre of oil left in the engine (I know I know, my Dad always tells me to check it regularly but I have a memory like a sieve).

Whilst working out how much oil i needed for an oil change I spotted the alleged 0-60 time of 14.4 seconds and it got me thinking that maybe the car shouldn't be as slow as it is? I've replaced the oil, filter, air filter and fuel filter and no difference. I get about 50 mpg but my Dad gets 60mpg in his 2006 Fusion 1.6 TDCi.

So, fellow 1.4 TDCi owners, what's your 0-60 and mpg like? Any ideas why my car is so slow?

I'm thinking maybe the oil leak is linked to the slow speed. The leak seems to be coming from around the Turbo, could it be knackered? How can I tell if it's working?

All replies great fully received

Cheers

Stephen

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14.4 seconds is fine, you're not going to go fast in a 1.4 diesel for sure. I looked on Autotrader and they quote 14.8 seconds up to 60. The 1.6 will fetch 60mpg because the engine has to work less to keep the speeds so is at lower RPM's.

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Hi b1g_dav3, I agree 14.4 is fine but my car is taking 40 seconds to do 0-60.

Been doing some surfing and some posts seem to suggest that oil is getting into the turbo, which is becoming compressed and therefore forced out (hence a small oil leak) plus maybe the leaking oil is clogging the DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter). But this is all way over my head.

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I don't think you'll have a DPF so that pesky piece of scrap metal won't be an issue, do you have smoke coming out the back of the car? White smoke = blown/cracked turbo. Slow acceleration is probably down to the turbo >_>

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Hi, I have double checked and exhaust fumes are clear, no white smoke at all.

There is definitely very small amount of oil coming from top of turbo so presume the seal has gone.

Engine seems to run smooth, just lacks power during acceleration but can still reach motorway speeds given enough road.

Simplest thing would be to replace the turbo (which i am looking into) but my concern is that turbo was knackered by something else?

Really dumb question, but should there be oil in the turbo at all? Or is the fact that there is oil in the turbo evidence that there is a leak elsewhere in the engine?

My new years resolution is to learn more about how my car works!!!!!!

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i do have a petrol car but i had some work done on mine and they give me the 2011 fiesta diesel and i didnt have any prob getting to 60mph i prob got to 90 in less this 40 seconds but i did push it very hard as it wasnt my car.

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I would of thought the turbo would have some sort of oil line just to keep it all lubricated all dandy. From what i can guess is that a seal or something is broken and oil is making its way out and possibly it is loosing pressure on the blow out resulting in your very slow acceleration. that would be my best bet mate.

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Thanks guys.

Been driving it for 18 months so far so pretty sure I've done any damage already :-)

However, spoke to a local garage who have said its more likely to be faulty actuator and for £20 they will do some tests and diagnose the problem. Will see what their verdict is and report back.

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Well, the garage have run a few tests and have diagnosed the following:

Oil leak is not an issue and commonly seen.

The turbo is engaging and producing pressure, however they believe the actuator is seized and therefore the engine is not getting the benefit of the turbo.

Possibly a secondary issue of a blocked or collapsed Catalytic converter.

Quoted me £150-£180 to take the turbo/actuator off, strip them and attempt to free the actuator rod. As long as the actuator rod is not bent (says it is rare), thinks that should resolve the turbo problem. Whilst the turbo is off they wil have a closer look at the Cat.

They are hopeful that I won't need a new actuator but if I do it might mean a new turbo as some models aren't sold separately.

So fingers crossed!!!

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Good News :-)

So the garage have taken Turbo off and confirmed that the Actuator was completely seized. Even better they were able to free it up and get it working so happily have avoided having to get a new turbo (Ford said they don't sell the actuator separately and wanted £500+).

Bad News :-(

Cars performance is better but still not great and garage now getting fault code pointing to the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve so they are going to take it off and see if they can clean it.

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Cheers pragmatix

B1g dav3 I like your thinking but I'd like to get the car running normally first, then contemplating a remap to get a few more bhp

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Good news :-)

Garage have managed to clean the EGR valve and avoid the need to get a new one (quoted £170 for a new one). Fault code for the EGR now gone. Slight improvement in performance.

Bad news :-(

New fault code has appeared pointing to the Cat. Car now does 0-60 in 28 seconds, so better but clearly something is still amiss.

So, £165 later, garage recommends changing the Cat, quoting another £269. However my local exhaust place can do it for £210. So now I'm pretty much where I started but more determined than ever to get it sorted. Can't quite believe that there are three faults all causing a lack of power, unless each one left undiagnosed has caused another fault like a domino effect?

My quest continues.....

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Well, the next installment goes like this....

Rang round a few more exhaust specialists to get quotes for a new Cat and remembered a place I used to get exhausts from when I lived at home with my parents many moons ago. Rang them up and had a nice long chat, they listened intently and concurred with the step by step diagnosis the garage had already done.

They too agree that the next logical thing to change would be the Cat, and explained that as the actuator and EGR valve were both not performing the car was more than likely failing to properly burn the diesel and so the amount of crap hitting the Cat has probably blocked/knackered it.

And then comes the bit that I found interesting, they then said "forget about replacing the Cat, it's expensive and does bugger all on a diesel anyway other than removing a bit of soot, we can decat it for £50". So with the tantalising prospect of resolving the lack of power, not having to fork out £200+ for a Cat and possibly getting a few extra bhp into the bargain I booked the car in for Sat morning.

Saturday morning came, took the car in, and after 5 mins exhaust man says there is a problem. Someone (I suspect the garage earlier this week) has managed to snap off one of the bolts on the exhaust manifold so they need to drill it out before they can decat the exhaust and this means possibly removing the turbo). Plus the shape of the exhaust and cat is not straight forward so they recommend taking the cat off, gutting the insides, welding it back together and refitting (this also means that if the legislation changes or pc plod has a look it will still pass a visual inspection).

So, rebooked in for Tuesday and the saga continues.

PS. Exhaust man also pointed out that the lid to the air filter box doesn't fit properly, had a good look and it looks like in the past someone has filed bits off it so maybe someone tried a few mods before without much success. Very strange. Am keeping an eye out for a new lid from scrap yard etc... Not sure if this would affect the cars performance in any way?

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Well, decat complete.

Verdict? No difference whatsoever!

So £285 poorer and turbo working, actuator working, EGR valve clean, cat removed and still 0-60 of around 40 seconds.

Gutted.

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Should have bought a new engine lol dunno how much they are, but you must have spent nearly the same! garages always tryin to get more money out of u!

Edited by iNath
Removed swearing

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Hi Stephen,when the garage were looking at the car did they do a compression test on each cylinder, as you mentioned in the first post you only got half a litre of oil out of the sump,thats not enough oil to lube all the moving parts,theres probably a good chance your piston rings are now worn depending how long it's been used without oil.With half a litre of oil your lucky it still goes at all.

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Hi Upnorth. They didn't mention any tests on the cylinders, they concentrated on the turbo, then actuator and EGR valve.

I think the lack of oil certainly won't have helped but the cars performance is as it was when I bought the car 18 months ago. Possible the previous owner ran the car with little or no oil in it.

Have trawled the forums again and come up with a few things to check/do:

Check Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and clean if appears dirty?

Check Electronic Accelerator Control (EAC). Some people suggest getting Ford to check it and recode if necessary as they sometimes lose the settings?

Check Pedal Sensor, clean plug or replace pedal?

And now check compression of cylinders! Any idea how much new piston rings are?

I'm going on hols soon so will have to put any further work on hold for a few weeks and carry on upon my return. But I am determined to solve it!

All suggestions / ideas are most welcome.

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Hello,

I have joined the forum as I have exactly the same problem as will689. I have a 2010 (10 plate) Fiesta 1.4 TDCi which has absolutely no power. I've had it for 3 years and the symptoms have gotten progressively worse. The vehicle has done 125,000 miles and does not appear to have a DPF fitted.

I have replaced the MAP and MAF, but this made no difference. The car has been full serviced, including a new fuel filter, but still no joy. Recently the car broke down. After getting it recovered to the garage, the mechanic managed to get it running, but it had a horrid top-end knock.

Give the lack of power, the need for a cam belt and the fact that turbos and injectors tend to go at this mileage, I decided to get a replacement engine from FAB Recycling (www.fabdirect.co.uk). The replacement engine was from a 60,000 mile vehicle and came with EGR valve, turbo and injectors. It was installed yesterday and starts and runs sweetly. However, this new engine has no power either!

My mechanic and I are now at our wits ends. We were about to decat it as we were wondering whether that was blocked, but after reading post #18 in this thread, I'm now thinking that might not be worth it. Given that we have changed the MAP, MAF, and engine (inc. turbo, injectors and EGR valve) does anyone have any idea what else we should try?

Also, what is the best way to check Electronic Accelerator Control (EAC)? Also, how should I check the Pedal Sensor?

Thanks

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Have you checked it is getting enough fuel?

On my parents old Clio the fuel lines got partially blocked and the car konked out on a ferry on ramp due to lack of power, all it needed was an italian tune up, but might point you in the right direction.

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Not specifically, but it never hesitates or splutters and will rev cleanly through the rev range. However, the rate at which it piles on the revs, even in neutral, is very slow.

It also starts no problem, so I'm not sure if that would be the problem.

In my mind, all the symptoms point to a blocked cat, but the fact that it didn't solve the problem for will689 is making me hesitate before spending more money...

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If it is slow to rev up in neutral could you not temporarily disconnect the cat and try revving it up (not on the road)?

Might make a hell of a noise, but would rule out blocked cat if it still revs slowly.

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