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Mk5 Fiesta 1.25 Zetec Cam Belt + Coil Pack + Engine Warning Light


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#1 nordle

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Posted 05 February 2009 - 11:44 PM

Hello, I'm new to the Ford fam, having blown up a few dodgy Rovers over last few years :rolleyes:

Y Reg 2001 Mk5 Fiesta 1.25 Zetec Petrol 57,000 miles

Engine warning light came on last week, running rough, shaking, miss-firing. Checked plugs, (wrong type, NGK PTR5A-10, but ok). Found one HT lead badly corded at end that joins coil pack, which itself was corded and full of crap in same terminal.

Replaced plugs with NGK TR5A-10. Replaced single knackered HT lead. Replaced Coil Pack. Firing on all 4 again :)

Q1. The Haynes manuel said the spark gap needed to be 1.3mm, but I read on Interweb that Ford originally set it to 1.3mm and found HT leads dying early, so changed it to 1.0mm. So is it 1.3mm or 1.0? I went with 1.2mm, hope this is ok / reasonable compromise.

Q2. The engine management light is still on, but the car is running ok now. Best option to take to dealer to have laptop trickery?

Q3. The timing belt, subject of billions of internet posts :) I keep reading that its 10yrs or 100k miles, however the Ford Warrenty and Service Manual says:
"Camshaft drive belt, tensioner and idler
Renew Zetec, Zetec-E (without auto-tensioner) every 5 years or 80,000 miles"

next page
"Camshaft drive belt
Renew Zetec E (with auo-tensioner), Zetec SE Endura-DI every 10 years or 100,000 miles"

The Haynes manual says "Every 40,000 miles for Zetec SE"

3a. Apologies for being thick, but I'm not sure which of the above applies.

3b. There is a chance that it's already been replaced. Looking back through the history I found an Invoice for:
09-SEP-04
25,108 miles
Belt 20.56
Gasket 6.45
Seal 4.25
Tensioner 27.19
Water Pump 66.92
Plug 49p
Bolt 1.55
127.41 Labour 375

Unfortunately, it doesn't say what the belt was, but seeing the water pump and tensioner, having read many posts, I believe these tend to get done at the same time as the cam belt.
However, I realise that these are pretty big assumptions, it could be the Alternator Belt. And given the 25k miles, it could all be garbage and the garage just ripped the previous owner.
I guess there might be a sticker possibly, but I didn't see one.

3c. In short, I guess I should get the cam belt done in 2010 to be on safe side (do a lot of short, sub 5 mile, often stop start journeys). I had the alternator belt done in Jan '07 and possibly the tensioner was done in 2004, but should these all be done again at the same time?

Apologies for the long first post, many thanks for reading it! :)
My first Ford, and although I found doing basics in cramped engine bay tricky, the usability of the cockpit is great. Going from a 20yr old car to this, you can really see that a lot of thought / design has gone into making it a nice place to be.
I also REALLY like having a small car, it corners like its on rails compared to previous boats. Although 1.25 is, well, 1.25.

Many thanks for any pointers / help / tips etc (I'll keep future posts shorter, promise).

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#2 SierraYankee99

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Posted 06 February 2009 - 08:58 AM

Welcome to the family.

Shorts answers, 1, engine management light could be because the engine problem logged a fault code. Simply reset your ECU by removing the battery for half an hour then re-connecting it. All being well the light will then have gone.

Cambelt.
Ford are notoriously optimistic at 10 years/100,000 miles and Haynes are notoriously careful at 40,000 miles.
The biggest weakness is actually the tensioners. They usually give in any time after 80,000 miles therefore I'd go with changing it circa 70-75,000 miles to be on the safe side.

#3 nordle

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Posted 06 February 2009 - 10:58 AM

Welcome to the family.

Shorts answers, 1, engine management light could be because the engine problem logged a fault code. Simply reset your ECU by removing the battery for half an hour then re-connecting it. All being well the light will then have gone.

Cambelt.
Ford are notoriously optimistic at 10 years/100,000 miles and Haynes are notoriously careful at 40,000 miles.
The biggest weakness is actually the tensioners. They usually give in any time after 80,000 miles therefore I'd go with changing it circa 70-75,000 miles to be on the safe side.


Cheers SierraYankee99, much appreciated! Am about to disconnect battery now, will soon find out whether the Radio code I was given when buying the car actually works :)

I just worked out that I'm only now doing 4,000 miles a year. If the car passes MOT in Dec '09 then I'll get the belt and tensioner done in early '10

100k had me thinking WOW. I mean, the old Rovers, I seemed to do those every 24mths...... along with rear bushes every 8 weeks!

The roads have been really bad over last 5 years, massive holes everywhere, but this snow + water + salt have really put giant crayters everywhere!

Anyway, thanks again.

#4 Rookwise

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Posted 06 February 2009 - 06:43 PM

A better way would be to wait untill you've started the car 20 times. If everythings fine after you've replaced the faulty parts the engine management light will go out.

Saves pulling the battery and then having to put you radio code in.

#5 nordle

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Posted 09 February 2009 - 02:08 PM

A better way would be to wait untill you've started the car 20 times. If everythings fine after you've replaced the faulty parts the engine management light will go out.

Saves pulling the battery and then having to put you radio code in.



Doh! Too late. I left the battery out for 35mins. Started car, went for spin, did 10 miles, seemed fine. However the damn light is still on.

I can leave it 20 starts and see, then maybe call AA (been member for 6 years, never called them out) and see if they can tell me what it means.

I've got a radio code, I punched it in and....then what? There must be some sort of "OK" button, but I don't know which it is, and I don't want to randomly hit buttons as I heard that if you mess it up 10 times then the whole thing locks out.

Is there a button or.?

Thanks again.

#6 Rookwise

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Posted 09 February 2009 - 10:55 PM

Use buttons 1-4 to enter the code and then press 5 to enter it into the system.
After 10 incorrect attempts the unit will lock out and you will need to got to a Ford dealer.


The engine light will stay on as its recorded into the ECU's memory. Either wait 20 starts or Pay up to 140 to get it turned off by a Ford dealer/Auto Electrician.
Shame your not in the Stoke On Trent area as Speedtune would turn the light off for you for 45.

#7 nordle

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Posted 12 February 2009 - 09:30 PM

Use buttons 1-4 to enter the code and then press 5 to enter it into the system.
After 10 incorrect attempts the unit will lock out and you will need to got to a Ford dealer.


The engine light will stay on as its recorded into the ECU's memory. Either wait 20 starts or Pay up to 140 to get it turned off by a Ford dealer/Auto Electrician.
Shame your not in the Stoke On Trent area as Speedtune would turn the light off for you for 45.


Thanks Rookwise, I've not done the radio as have been giving car a few days to get the battery powered up a bit, given its 2 week stay in parking bay.

In the Haynes manual it rambled on about this weird pagan ritual that might help with the engine management. Having disconnected the battery etc, started engine and ran for 5mins until warm, then pegged the throttle at about 1300rpm for 2 mins, then went for drive. Well **** me, but the next day I started it and the light had gone! That was about the 4th start since battery out. Done another 6 since then, and still all appears well. Although quite whether the mad little engine dance had anything to do with it, no idea.

So, on a roll now, might even try the radio tomorrow.......oh, Friday 13th, damnit. Better get the bus! :)

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