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Has Anyone Tried Terraclean ?


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#1 Schuey

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 08:16 PM

Hello,

I am curious having seen the Wheeler Dealers programme, regarding the TerraClean product of decarbonising the engine on a car.

I had a look on the net, and I contacted the UK people via the website, I was given a few places where they do this, the closest being in Birmingham and Nottingham. The place in Nottingham Tuna Motorsport will do the procedure for £70 plus vat = £84. It takes one hour apparently.

I am interested as it apparently cleans the engine, engine respone is better, as is economy.

Having just had a full major service on my 03 plate 2.0 petrol Mondeo Mk3 I am interested as to any members on here who have had it done and what their impartial view on it is.

I am not connected with the product, agent or garages that do this so I have no links to it, but I would like to be informed prior to spending the money and having it done, if I indeed opt for it.

Thank you

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#2 ppeter7

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 05:25 PM

i did see that to seems gd but obvious its going to take a while 4 it to expand further

#3 Twizzel

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 08:33 PM

Just bought my focus 2002 1.8 TDci and it has had it done and the exhaust figures where cut in half

#4 bladeage

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Posted 17 January 2013 - 06:02 PM

Hi all,

With diesels the most clogged up parts are nearly always on the gas induction/expulsion side of things as opposed to diesel pipes,injectors,pumps becoming clogged (unless you have been using dirty fuel etc!),sure, there are problems with injector spray patterns changing due to wear and fuel lines becoming clogged with chip fat (I ask you!) but generally it is mostly down to the inlet manifold being sooted up/egr valves sticking,turbo air sensor covered in carbon soot.It will clean inlet valves I am sure!
My point is that as I guess Terraclean is a fuel delivery cleaner i.e. delivered through a fuel line?? and will only clean the parts that fuel flows thru and with most diesels then that means it will pass thru the High Pressure fuel pump which incidentally is as I understand is lubricated solely by the diesel from you tank? I am also not sure that cleaning sealed faces that have gathered crud for 150k miles etc will improve things, it may do short term but you will clean the crud from places that may expose old worn seals for instance.
Cheers.

#5 FOCA

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 06:07 AM

Personally i think blocking the EGR valve with a blanking plate (removing this scource of "muck" at least) is better/ more cost effective

"stop the muck getting in in the 1st place"

Taking the inlet manifold off seems the only practical/ effective way of removing the carbon muck from the inside of the inlet manifold the EGR system has deposited

Obviously a diesel engine gets clogged up with more than just the carbon from the EGR, but its a start

#6 kevctr

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 04:28 PM

does the metal pipe that goes to the egr valve have to be a sealed pipe the reason i ask is mine has come loose from the mounting plate and unsure if i need to change it as it wont come apart but isnt welded together any more ?

#7 jeebowhite

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 05:28 PM

If not blanked it does need to be a straight through pipe, the purpose of this pipe is to take the hot exhaust gasses from the valve and push them back into the combustion chamber

#8 bladeage

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 06:11 PM

Personally i think blocking the EGR valve with a blanking plate (removing this scource of "muck" at least) is better/ more cost effective

"stop the muck getting in in the 1st place"

Taking the inlet manifold off seems the only practical/ effective way of removing the carbon muck from the inside of the inlet manifold the EGR system has deposited

Obviously a diesel engine gets clogged up with more than just the carbon from the EGR, but its a start

Yep I think with diesels that removing the inlet manifold,egr valve turbo sensor/s and giving them an awesome clean works wonders, I have done it on my e320 merc (200k) and my missis's signum diesel and it worked wonders both times, much smoother running, better tick over and more power!
Blanking off the egr valve can throw error warnings up on the dashboard but 97% sure it will not hurt the engine and will stop it getting sooted up so quickly.

#9 FOCA

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 07:41 PM

Yep I think with diesels that removing the inlet manifold,egr valve turbo sensor/s and giving them an awesome clean works wonders, I have done it on my e320 merc (200k) and my missis's signum diesel and it worked wonders both times, much smoother running, better tick over and more power!
Blanking off the egr valve can throw error warnings up on the dashboard but 97% sure it will not hurt the engine and will stop it getting sooted up so quickly.


Agreed,

On a Ford, if its a Euro3 it should be able to be blanked without any problems, in fact fitting a solid plate( no holes to let gasses through- thats a waste of time) cam "fix" a faulty or leaking EGR valve, and at about a fiver online is a lot cheaper than replacing the EGR valve!

+ the other advantages bladeage gas mentioned!

A Euro 4 engine may generate an error code and put the EML (engine management light) on, this will not trigger "limp (home) mode" on its own (misinformation spread by other forums) this light can simply be ignored or reset at intervals with a fault code reader

Some euro4 Ford owners prefer to do this than to run with an EGR valve system unblanked

#10 martyntdci

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 09:33 PM

i am one of those euro 4 owners lol, and best couple of quid ive spent, well would of. i made my own out of 3.5mm galv i htink it was, as ive heard about thsome of them on ebay blowing threw.....

#11 bladeage

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 05:18 PM

I have just brought an egr blanking plate for my missis's Signum 1.9 cdti, I didnt get the complete one but the one with four small holes in it,should I get a full blank plate?

#12 FOCA

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 08:10 PM

I have just brought an egr blanking plate for my missis's Signum 1.9 cdti, I didnt get the complete one but the one with four small holes in it,should I get a full blank plate?


The blanking plates with the holes are supposed to allow a little bit of the gasses through, so that the EML (engine management light) does not come on, it might acheive this, but they don't work as blanking plates - to allow any gasses through defeats the purpose of the blanking plate, often, the EML comes on too, making "holed" plates worse than useless in that case

EGR stands for "Exhaust Gas Recirculation" - this works on a petrol engine but in practice on a deisel by squirting dirty exhaust gasses into the inlet, contaminating the inlet manifold with carbon gunge

Solid vs "holed" egr blanking plates :-

1 - A solid plate effectively blocks the exhaust gases/ carbon/ muck from the exhaust from going into the inlet of the engine, it will stop flat spots/ hesitation/ turbo lag caused by the EGR valve/ system - a "holed" plate will not (engine runs better on clean cool air than dirty exhaust gasses)

2 This carbon/ muck contaminates the inlet manifold, the oil from the breather mixes with this too, forming a goo in the inlet, if this all gets cleaned out, a solid plate keeps the inlet (including the manifold) clean from exhaust deposits - a "holed" blanking plate does not

3 If your EGR valve is faulty (eg siezed or sticking open, or not working properly) a solid plate will "fix" this, (by effectively disabling the egr valve system- the valve becomes a "dead" lump of metal, that does nothing) - with a "holed" plate, the EGR valve/ system must be working properly

Blanking plates should be solid, and made throm thick stainless steel, mild steel rusts, aluminium can melt (exhaust gasses, remember)

I only really know about Euro3 and Euro4 diesel Mondeos re- blanking plates, many other Fords of that era are similar, earlier EGR systems were "added on" to existing designs, (and easier to blank, disable or remove- ive completely removed mine)later designs the EGR system is more "integrated" and more difficult to blank/ disable/ remove

A lot of the limitations of a "holed" plate (vs solid plate) will still apply to your Vauxhall, but you would need to check it out yourself - personally, i would try fitting a solid plate and see how you get on (after all, they are only about a fiver)

#13 bladeage

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 05:21 PM

Thanks for that,
I will get a blanking plate with no holes in it ordered,I have taken the DPF off and removed its ecu loop so with the plate it should make a big difference.

#14 jeebowhite

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 04:43 PM

Given the nature of this thread, I think it might be best served being located in the General Ford section, as its not specifically referencing the Servicing or MOT side of things.

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