chrispage1 Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 TO remove fog lights just take the headlamps out and go in from above. Yeah I did that but seemed almost impossible to get to the lower left torx as it's right by the washer bottle. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M4RC Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 If there connected to pos/neg of the battery surely they will be on all the time? Other that when the relay turnes them off when dipped beam is on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrispage1 Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 If there connected to pos/neg of the battery surely they will be on all the time? Other that when the relay turnes them off when dipped beam is on? Surprisingly not - not sure how the relay is working but they do switch off after about a minute :) Also if you are getting the same relay as me they are not turned off when dipped beam is on but dimmed by 30%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrispage1 Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 OK quick update on this one. It's taken me a while because I was waiting for the DRL's to turn up so I could use the casing - I didn't want exposed LED's and it was looking naff anyway. When the DRL's finally turned up (after about 3 weeks) I quickly realised I hadn't checked the size and they were way too big - no way the plastic was going to bend into shape either but I still tried to give it a go so ruined any chances of me sending them back. Anyway, I ordered some new 70mm bike ones and they are much better. The casing pretty much houses the SMD LEDs and then the rest of the board can be fully attached and made water tight using silicone. Emptying out the casing of the existing DRL was pretty simple - there is a foil film that is held down with glue. You just need to pry away the glue, take out the film by edging along it with a knife or something and then once the film is off pull the DRL ring out. You could always use that filament for something.... not sure yet though?! So, back of the home made DRL - Front of the home made DRL - Now all I need to do is wait for a nice dry weekend (please be this one!) where I can take my headlights out, get down into the fog light assembly, take that out, push the DRL in first and then put the fog light back in place. Connect up the bullet connectors and we are ready to go. Only thing is I'm still not sure how to get to the lower torx on the passenger side fog - might have to take the washer bottle and get under the car to do it! I mentioned in a previous post that I have already got the relay in place so I have tested it and its working nicely - just need the lights to go with! Will update again once they are installed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrispage1 Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Also worth mentioning that I put silicone on the back of the SMD LEDs just to stop them from getting wet and causing any damage. I also changed the wires going into the circuit because the previous ones were flimsy and practically fell off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 how bright are these when powered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D13 HPD 95 Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 how bright are these when powered? you can see them comming towards you but wont light up the road, the light beam is maybe a metre and a half at a push not very bright but look amazing when stood next to them :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Sounds good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrispage1 Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 OK so just an update... I got these fitted, the relay is working well and the DRL's look great. I haven't had a chance to take a decent picture yet though so watch this space! The only thing I would say with my relay in particular is that the '25 second coming home function' seems to be more like 5 minutes! I presume it must run off of a temporary battery that has been charged while the engine is on and because they are LED's they are quite efficient so stay bright for some time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M4RC Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Looking good! I've bought the Asian grill and was gonna put the Mercedes style DRLs into the inserts but don't think there going to fit to well. Have you got a link to the leds and casing you bought? Might consider getting them. Look forward to seeing the photo too! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 as you have run it from an ignition live, this will be the engine running down and switching off. As soon as you remove the key, the engine still has power for sensors and other equipment, for example, in case of a hot engine, it can continue to run the fan for a bit longer to cool it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M4RC Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Where have you put the cable coming from the leds? The ring is stuck to the outer glass so have you put the cable over the plastic surround or??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrispage1 Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Where have you put the cable coming from the leds? The ring is stuck to the outer glass so have you put the cable over the plastic surround or??? The way I did mine was to actually go in from behind the bumper panel by taking out the lights and the fog light assemblies. I then put my DRL rings into where the fog light sits, put the fog light in and screwed it in tight while being careful to make sure it's in the right position. So for me, the rings are held in between the fog light and its surround rather than any tape or anything. This also has the benefit of the cabling just going straight up and out between the fog light glass & the plastic surround. as you have run it from an ignition live, this will be the engine running down and switching off. As soon as you remove the key, the engine still has power for sensors and other equipment, for example, in case of a hot engine, it can continue to run the fan for a bit longer to cool it down. thanks for this - certainly makes sense! I have never actually heard the fan running after I have switched the engine off though - at least not that I can remember (maybe last summer on a very hot day but they don't come often!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M4RC Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 The way I did mine was to actually go in from behind the bumper panel by taking out the lights and the fog light assemblies. I then put my DRL rings into where the fog light sits, put the fog light in and screwed it in tight while being careful to make sure it's in the right position. So for me, the rings are held in between the fog light and its surround rather than any tape or anything. This also has the benefit of the cabling just going straight up and out between the fog light glass & the plastic surround. thanks for this - certainly makes sense! I have never actually heard the fan running after I have switched the engine off though - at least not that I can remember (maybe last summer on a very hot day but they don't come often!). Aww that sounds good. Is that with 70mm rings? Also how easy was ir to get the fogs out? I know people have had problems getting the passengers one out due the water bottle or something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrispage1 Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Aww that sounds good. Is that with 70mm rings? Also how easy was ir to get the fogs out? I know people have had problems getting the passengers one out due the water bottle or something Yeah 70mm rings... I still have to upload some pictures! Getting the fogs out was actually fairly easy. Take the main lights out which is just 2 torx screws, plastic clip and the wiring clip. For the fogs themselves you are better off to reach down and use a small socket wrench but again all that is needed is to undo some torx screws & a 12mm socket (off the top of my head). The driver side was easy but as you say the passenger side was tricky because of the washer bottle. The top washer bottle screw comes out with a 12mm socket. There is also a screw at the bottom but it's a bit tricky to get at. Eventually I got there by putting my hand under the bumper and just feeling it out. Small turns works best otherwise you will constantly knock your socket off. It was actually a lot easier than it looked in the end! Once you have got the two screws off, there is then a small plastic clip that is clipped into a metal hole about mid way down the washer bottle, you just need to give this a good tug. Be gentle enough that you don't take the wiring for the washer motor with it though! Make sure you lift it up a little bit and then undo the wiring clip into the washer motor, you might have to reach down a bit to get at it. It's the same loom that provides power to the passenger fog. So once you've got the bottle out the way enough just undo the two torx screws again and voila! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeuscraig1 Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 I purchased the ring led and that relay. But I noticed on the ring led the leads are really short like 10cm. How did you connect it to the relay? Please help thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrispage1 Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 I purchased the ring led and that relay. But I noticed on the ring led the leads are really short like 10cm. How did you connect it to the relay? Please help thank you. If you got the same relay as me, you should find the relay wires are easily long enough to go from about where the fuse box is, all the way over to the driver side fog & passenger side fog. What I did do though, is replace the wires on the LED rings because the standard wire is flimsy and likely to break from bumps when driving etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeuscraig1 Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 I got this relay which was posted few pages back. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/191016560305?roken=JnrQLC It not come yet but. you say it should reach. I notice on the picture it has a fuse. And I read you should disconnect the drl if gong for an mot. Will it fail an mot if they see the lights working. And by pulling the fuse will it stop working completely. So to pass tr mot? And did you replace the led wires with stronger ones and did you change the end of the wires connection. Mine has the w5w connection I think thank you hope u help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrispage1 Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 I got this relay which was posted few pages back. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/191016560305?roken=JnrQLC It not come yet but. you say it should reach. I notice on the picture it has a fuse. And I read you should disconnect the drl if gong for an mot. Will it fail an mot if they see the lights working. And by pulling the fuse will it stop working completely. So to pass tr mot? And did you replace the led wires with stronger ones and did you change the end of the wires connection. Mine has the w5w connection I think thank you hope u help You will find it is easily long enough and will even allow you to run it underneath the plastics at the front of the bonnet out the way of any moving parts. I haven't taken mine through MOT yet but to be safe I would just take the fuse out which will turn your DRLs off until you have passed :P I soldered new wires on as the originals aren't really thick enough and put bullet connectors on the ends of the wires from the end of the relay and onto the DRLs although you could actually get away with soldering the two together and putting some heat shrink over it just to keep the water out. So to get these DRLs working nicely all you need is a soldering iron, clear silicone (to seal the rings to the casing if you get the casing) and some bullet connectors. Obviously you will also need the standard tools to take the headlight units out and the washer bottle to get to the hex screws behind the passenger fog too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayJones877 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 I see in this guide that you have connected the positive to the battery. Doesn't that mean it will always be drawing power from the battery even when the car is not running? Should it not be connected to a fuse either in the engine bay or interior fuse box so when the ignition is on thats when the DRL's draw power and come on? I'm planning on fitting some DRL's to my Fiesta, I have all the gear to do it I just want to be 100% sure what I'm doing first is all. (If this thread is closed forgive me I'm new. I still have yet to put a Pic up yet too...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M4RC Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 I see in this guide that you have connected the positive to the battery. Doesn't that mean it will always be drawing power from the battery even when the car is not running? Should it not be connected to a fuse either in the engine bay or interior fuse box so when the ignition is on thats when the DRL's draw power and come on? I'm planning on fitting some DRL's to my Fiesta, I have all the gear to do it I just want to be 100% sure what I'm doing first is all. (If this thread is closed forgive me I'm new. I still have yet to put a Pic up yet too...) I also thought this but if it's through the relay it should be fine, there's loads of people on here that have tested it and works fine. My relay was faulty so I've ordered a new one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayJones877 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Ah ok it should be a doddle then, see how it goes. Just got some brackets to make and all should be well. Another question though. What inline fuse do I need? I have a few 3A ones lying about, would they be suitable? Unfortunatley my relay didn't come with one so I have to fit one myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M4RC Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Heeeelp - http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/54565-help-with-lights-please/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Epu Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Anyone here who has tried "eagle eye" type of LED's as DRL? I would like to know which ones to choose from as there is many different ones goes from 1.5w to 9w. So I would like to know which ones are usually used on as DRL's I believe citroen DS3 has eagle eye's as DRL's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilko-S1600 Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 The Eagle eye lights look good but not sure where you would install them on the car.... Also.... love how my thread is still going after 2 years with 17,000 views :D Sent from my GT-N7100 using Ford OC mobile app Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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