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Fiesta Mk7 Drl Fitting Guide!

DRL MK7 MK LED daytime lights fiesta

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#61 jeebowhite

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Posted 24 January 2014 - 10:40 AM

as you have run it from an ignition live, this will be the engine running down and switching off. As soon as you remove the key, the engine still has power for sensors and other equipment, for example, in case of a hot engine, it can continue to run the fan for a bit longer to cool it down.



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#62 M4RC

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 10:36 PM

Where have you put the cable coming from the leds? The ring is stuck to the outer glass so have you put the cable over the plastic surround or???

#63 chrispage1

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 11:14 PM

Where have you put the cable coming from the leds? The ring is stuck to the outer glass so have you put the cable over the plastic surround or???

The way I did mine was to actually go in from behind the bumper panel by taking out the lights and the fog light assemblies. I then put my DRL rings into where the fog light sits, put the fog light in and screwed it in tight while being careful to make sure it's in the right position. So for me, the rings are held in between the fog light and its surround rather than any tape or anything. This also has the benefit of the cabling just going straight up and out between the fog light glass & the plastic surround.

 

as you have run it from an ignition live, this will be the engine running down and switching off. As soon as you remove the key, the engine still has power for sensors and other equipment, for example, in case of a hot engine, it can continue to run the fan for a bit longer to cool it down.

thanks for this - certainly makes sense! I have never actually heard the fan running after I have switched the engine off though - at least not that I can remember (maybe last summer on a very hot day but they don't come often!).



#64 M4RC

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 11:19 PM

The way I did mine was to actually go in from behind the bumper panel by taking out the lights and the fog light assemblies. I then put my DRL rings into where the fog light sits, put the fog light in and screwed it in tight while being careful to make sure it's in the right position. So for me, the rings are held in between the fog light and its surround rather than any tape or anything. This also has the benefit of the cabling just going straight up and out between the fog light glass & the plastic surround.
 

thanks for this - certainly makes sense! I have never actually heard the fan running after I have switched the engine off though - at least not that I can remember (maybe last summer on a very hot day but they don't come often!).


Aww that sounds good. Is that with 70mm rings? Also how easy was ir to get the fogs out? I know people have had problems getting the passengers one out due the water bottle or something

#65 chrispage1

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Posted 30 January 2014 - 07:27 AM

Aww that sounds good. Is that with 70mm rings? Also how easy was ir to get the fogs out? I know people have had problems getting the passengers one out due the water bottle or something

 

Yeah 70mm rings... I still have to upload some pictures! Getting the fogs out was actually fairly easy. Take the main lights out which is just 2 torx screws, plastic clip and the wiring clip. For the fogs themselves you are better off to reach down and use a small socket wrench but again all that is needed is to undo some torx screws & a 12mm socket (off the top of my head). The driver side was easy but as you say the passenger side was tricky because of the washer bottle.

 

The top washer bottle screw comes out with a 12mm socket. There is also a screw at the bottom but it's a bit tricky to get at. Eventually I got there by putting my hand under the bumper and just feeling it out. Small turns works best otherwise you will constantly knock your socket off. It was actually a lot easier than it looked in the end! Once you have got the two screws off, there is then a small plastic clip that is clipped into a metal hole about mid way down the washer bottle, you just need to give this a good tug. Be gentle enough that you don't take the wiring for the washer motor with it though! Make sure you lift it up a little bit and then undo the wiring clip into the washer motor, you might have to reach down a bit to get at it. It's the same loom that provides power to the passenger fog. So once you've got the bottle out the way enough just undo the two torx screws again and voila!  :D



#66 zeuscraig1

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 03:54 PM

I purchased the ring led and that relay. But I noticed on the ring led the leads are really short like 10cm. How did you connect it to the relay? Please help thank you.

#67 chrispage1

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 10:23 PM

I purchased the ring led and that relay. But I noticed on the ring led the leads are really short like 10cm. How did you connect it to the relay? Please help thank you.

 

If you got the same relay as me, you should find the relay wires are easily long enough to go from about where the fuse box is, all the way over to the driver side fog & passenger side fog. What I did do though, is replace the wires on the LED rings because the standard wire is flimsy and likely to break from bumps when driving etc.



#68 zeuscraig1

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 11:03 PM

I got this relay which was posted few pages back.
http://m.ebay.co.uk/...05?roken=JnrQLC

It not come yet but. you say it should reach. I notice on the picture it has a fuse. And I read you should disconnect the drl if gong for an mot. Will it fail an mot if they see the lights working. And by pulling the fuse will it stop working completely. So to pass tr mot?

And did you replace the led wires with stronger ones and did you change the end of the wires connection. Mine has the w5w connection I think thank you hope u help

#69 chrispage1

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 09:03 AM

I got this relay which was posted few pages back.
http://m.ebay.co.uk/...05?roken=JnrQLC

It not come yet but. you say it should reach. I notice on the picture it has a fuse. And I read you should disconnect the drl if gong for an mot. Will it fail an mot if they see the lights working. And by pulling the fuse will it stop working completely. So to pass tr mot?

And did you replace the led wires with stronger ones and did you change the end of the wires connection. Mine has the w5w connection I think thank you hope u help

 

You will find it is easily long enough and will even allow you to run it underneath the plastics at the front of the bonnet out the way of any moving parts. I haven't taken mine through MOT yet but to be safe I would just take the fuse out which will turn your DRLs off until you have passed :P

 

I soldered new wires on as the originals aren't really thick enough and put bullet connectors on the ends of the wires from the end of the relay and onto the DRLs although you could actually get away with soldering the two together and putting some heat shrink over it just to keep the water out.

 

So to get these DRLs working nicely all you need is a soldering iron, clear silicone (to seal the rings to the casing if you get the casing) and some bullet connectors. Obviously you will also need the standard tools to take the headlight units out and the washer bottle to get to the hex screws behind the passenger fog too.



#70 JayJones877

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Posted 10 March 2014 - 01:43 AM

I see in this guide that you have connected the positive to the battery. Doesn't that mean it will always be drawing power from the battery even when the car is not running? Should it not be connected to a fuse either in the engine bay or interior fuse box so when the ignition is on thats when the DRL's draw power and come on? 

 

I'm planning on fitting some DRL's to my Fiesta, I have all the gear to do it I just want to be 100% sure what I'm doing first is all.

 

(If this thread is closed forgive me I'm new. I still have yet to put a Pic up yet too...)



#71 M4RC

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Posted 10 March 2014 - 07:53 AM

I see in this guide that you have connected the positive to the battery. Doesn't that mean it will always be drawing power from the battery even when the car is not running? Should it not be connected to a fuse either in the engine bay or interior fuse box so when the ignition is on thats when the DRL's draw power and come on? 
 
I'm planning on fitting some DRL's to my Fiesta, I have all the gear to do it I just want to be 100% sure what I'm doing first is all.
 
(If this thread is closed forgive me I'm new. I still have yet to put a Pic up yet too...)


I also thought this but if it's through the relay it should be fine, there's loads of people on here that have tested it and works fine. My relay was faulty so I've ordered a new one

#72 JayJones877

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Posted 10 March 2014 - 11:21 AM

Ah ok it should be a doddle then, see how it goes. Just got some brackets to make and all should be well.

Another question though. What inline fuse do I need? I have a few 3A ones lying about, would they be suitable? Unfortunatley my relay didn't come with one so I have to fit one myself.

#73 M4RC

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Posted 24 March 2014 - 06:45 PM

Heeeelp - http://www.fordowner...-lights-please/

#74 Epu

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 03:19 PM

Anyone here who has tried "eagle eye" type of LED's as DRL? I would like to know which ones to choose from as there is many different ones goes from 1.5w to 9w. So I would like to know which ones are usually used on as DRL's I believe citroen DS3 has eagle eye's as DRL's.



#75 Wilko-S1600

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Posted 22 April 2014 - 07:22 PM

The Eagle eye lights look good but not sure where you would install them on the car....

Also.... love how my thread is still going after 2 years with 17,000 views :D

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