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Would Appreciate Some Advice Please.


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#1 david295

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 07:15 AM

Mk 2 focus, T reg 1.6 16v zetec.

I have had a few problems with this car since I bought it, I have sorted all but one problem, please bear with me while I explain it.

one of my problems I had was high revving on start up, and it took about 1 hour for revs to drop to mormal, this was caused by thermostate being stuck open, and head sensor detecting the car was cold so in turn kept revs high, I changed the thermostate and its now perfect.


3 weeks ago my alternator died, I called the rac, they took me to a auto electrician on the wirral, who diagnosed regulator had died, they reconed my alternator, and I bought a brand new battery a silver calcium.

Now at night time when am driving around with head lights on, if I switch on heater the lights go dim, if I press the brake pedal the lights go dim. If I press the clutch pedal the lights go dim and revs drop.

If am parked up with engine on tick over, and I press the brake pedal, the revs drop, even if I press the clutch pedal the revs drop, if i have headlights on and press the brake pedal and cluch pedal down, the engine comes very close to stalling.

I put a multi meter across the battery terminals with engine running, and am getting 19.5v, which am sure is too high.

If I switch on anything electrical when car is on tickover, the revs alter.

I was thinking about buying a brandnew alternator, but dont really want to do this if its not the problem, as I can not return it.

So I thought I would ask you guys and see what you recommend.

I would appreciate and advice and help you can give me.

Thanks.

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#2 btmaldon

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 07:56 AM

This may help.

http://www.petercoop...rt_charging.htm

Have you jump started the car at any time as that can goose your electrics when you have Fords Smart Charging system.

#3 Stoney871

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 08:03 AM

I think your regulator is still duff.
I'd get it checked again.

#4 david295

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 10:34 AM

This may help.

http://www.petercoop...rt_charging.htm

Have you jump started the car at any time as that can goose your electrics when you have Fords Smart Charging system.

I have never jumped started this car, thats not to say a previous owner has not done so.

#5 david295

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 10:37 AM

I think your regulator is still duff.
I'd get it checked again.

Would this cause the problems am having, I thought if regulator was duff, I would get battery light on, however saying that, you might be right, as am getting 19.5v with engine running.

What I can not understand is why it would do it with just pressing clutch down, as the clutch is done via cable, not electrics.

#6 Andy 1965

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 10:45 AM

It might be worth checking all the earth/ground points on the car. Especially around the engine bay.

#7 david295

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 11:03 AM

It might be worth checking all the earth/ground points on the car. Especially around the engine bay.

I have allready, replaced all earth leads under bonnet with brand new ones, and new battery terminals, and added extra earth leads, cleaned up all earth points, and also added new ones.
Sorry should of said in my first post all the things i have done.

also when headlights are on, if i use electric windows, the headlights go very dim.

#8 Stoney871

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 11:12 AM

Would this cause the problems am having, I thought if regulator was duff, I would get battery light on, however saying that, you might be right, as am getting 19.5v with engine running.

What I can not understand is why it would do it with just pressing clutch down, as the clutch is done via cable, not electrics.


You should be getting about 14.5v with the engine running so the power is not regulating properly.
I used to have this on a Motorbike and the regulator/rectifier was shot causing blown bulbs, intermittent power fluctuations, burnt out starter and a boiled battery.
Not sure if the car has a seperate rectifier but if you were to check with Ford or an auto electrician they may be able to shed light on the matter.
The battery light will probably only come on with a low charge/reduced return voltage not overcharge.
The clutch situation may be caused by the change in revs due to the engine spinning at a different speed on clutch seperation.
So they reconditioned the alternator? Hmmm, personally i'd not use a reconditioned one as there are many small faults that could have caused it to pack up in the first place that are not necessarily evident on a bench.
I know a new alternator is not a cheap option but it may be your best route.
IMHO, the voltage is not being regulated correctly so too much power is going to the battery and not enough to the car electrics.
That regulator has to go i think.

#9 david295

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 11:16 AM

You should be getting about 14.5v with the engine running so the power is not regulating properly.
I used to have this on a Motorbike and the regulator/rectifier was shot causing blown bulbs, intermittent power fluctuations, burnt out starter and a boiled battery.
Not sure if the car has a seperate rectifier but if you were to check with Ford or an auto electrician they may be able to shed light on the matter.
The battery light will probably only come on with a low charge/reduced return voltage not overcharge.
The clutch situation may be caused by the change in revs due to the engine spinning at a different speed on clutch seperation.
So they reconditioned the alternator? Hmmm, personally i'd not use a reconditioned one as there are many small faults that could have caused it to pack up in the first place that are not necessarily evident on a bench.
I know a new alternator is not a cheap option but it may be your best route.
IMHO, the voltage is not being regulated correctly so too much power is going to the battery and not enough to the car electrics.
That regulator has to go i think.

I thought you where going to say that, I thought as much myself, just wanted someone else to confirm it this confirmed it for me (also when headlights are on, if i use electric windows, the headlights go very dim)

I think i will go out and buy a new alternator, i have been quoted for a brand new bosch one £115 if i give them my old one.

#10 Stoney871

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 11:21 AM

I thought you where going to say that, I thought as much myself, just wanted someone else to confirm it this confirmed it for me (also when headlights are on, if i use electric windows, the headlights go very dim)

I think i will go out and buy a new alternator, i have been quoted for a brand new bosch one £115 if i give them my old one.


That sounds a really good price for an alternator, i would assume that it will come with a new regulator too?
Please keep us informed of the results.

#11 stef123

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 11:46 AM

With smart charge you will see up to about 18v I believe. So 19.5v does seem high.
Personally I would take it back to who supplied the alternator or atleast give them a call

#12 stef123

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 11:48 AM

I have just bought a brand new in box genuine ford alternator for my dads focus 2006 1.8tdci - 125 so 115 seems fair

#13 david295

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 12:54 PM

Am going to go and get me new alt at 2pm, so will report back, once i've fitted it..

#14 david295

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 08:40 PM

I have just fitted alternator, and it's made no difference what so ever, the car still does not like anything electrical switched on, and it certainly does not like the clutch or brake pedal being pressed, if either are pressed, the car just barely keeps ticking over.

#15 stef123

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 08:49 PM

I have just fitted alternator, and it's made no difference what so ever, the car still does not like anything electrical switched on, and it certainly does not like the clutch or brake pedal being pressed, if either are pressed, the car just barely keeps ticking over.


unplug the 3 pin connector from the alternator while the engine is running and try things...does it help?

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