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Mk4 Mondeo Rear Hub Change Help Please


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#1 Raptor

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Posted 02 July 2012 - 09:34 PM

This site has helped me loads... I need help once again. I have recently purchased two new rear hubs for my mk4 mondeo tdci (57 plate) I am going to change them this weekend, but, theres always a but, I have looked at the new hubs, Does anyone know how to remove the torx head bolts without rounding them off. The part of the hub seems to be in the way (part that wheel bolts to ), so you cant get a torx head to make a good fit on the head, or a socket between the torx head and part with the wheel studs attached to.... Excuse my none mechanical description. I want to get it right to save my car being off the road. I hbope someone can help?

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#2 Lenny

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Posted 02 July 2012 - 09:52 PM

This site has helped me loads... I need help once again. I have recently purchased two new rear hubs for my mk4 mondeo tdci (57 plate) I am going to change them this weekend, but, theres always a but, I have looked at the new hubs, Does anyone know how to remove the torx head bolts without rounding them off. The part of the hub seems to be in the way (part that wheel bolts to ), so you cant get a torx head to make a good fit on the head, or a socket between the torx head and part with the wheel studs attached to.... Excuse my none mechanical description. I want to get it right to save my car being off the road. I hbope someone can help?


This may help you mate,
the bolt is an M10 x 20mm Torx holding the disc to the hub

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#3 Raptor

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Posted 02 July 2012 - 11:07 PM

Superb, I will purchase item in the morning. I will also purchase a manual for car as I have had no trouble at all from this motor (apart from these bearings) and its going to be with me for a while. It still looks a bt of a tight fit to get socket onto bolts though. (the 4 bolts in question are the ones that bolt the hub assembley to the car)

#4 stef123

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Posted 02 July 2012 - 11:36 PM

Is it the torx holding the disc on or the Torx holding the hub to the arm that you are meaning?
The torx that hold the hub to the arm, there should be a hole drilled in the hub, you just rotate this till it lines up

#5 Raptor

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Posted 03 July 2012 - 08:11 AM

Superb help, Its the hub to the arm... I see what you mean about the hole. What a dummy...... Its easy when you know how. Your help has just saved me time and a whole day of sratching my head..... Great site and valued help.....

#6 stef123

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Posted 03 July 2012 - 03:36 PM

Superb help, Its the hub to the arm... I see what you mean about the hole. What a dummy...... Its easy when you know how. Your help has just saved me time and a whole day of sratching my head..... Great site and valued help.....


:lol: glad we have been able to help mate.

#7 Lenny

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Posted 03 July 2012 - 06:48 PM

Superb help, Its the hub to the arm... I see what you mean about the hole. What a dummy...... Its easy when you know how. Your help has just saved me time and a whole day of sratching my head..... Great site and valued help.....


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#8 MrAntD

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Posted 16 December 2012 - 09:28 PM

Hi
Hope you don't mind my tagging this on to your question - when I was changing my rear hub it was always the 1st that came up on google. I have written an account of changing the rear hub on my Mondeo Mk4 TDCI Estate and it may help others:

Apart from the usual spanners and sockets, I used:

T55 1/2" socket (used a 1/4" and it snapped) the extra force allowed is helpful!
a ratchet extender - I used a steel pipe - this allowed me more control in a tight space.
Axle stand (so your jack can be used on the suspension if needed).
A bit of string - useful for tying the calliper in various places out of the way.
2x4 bit of wood a bit over 1 foot long


Brakes - there are plenty of blogs on brakes - check them! I removed the road wheel, loosened the disc securing screw with a T50, removed the calliper, pads and then the calliper holder - this was done without removing the handbrake cable or brake fluid hose. I removed the pads so I could easily remove the calliper past the lip worn in the disc. I tied the calliper out of the way with the string. I then removed the disc securing screw and removed the disc. this was stuck on so I gave it a whack with a wooden mallet and off it came.

Hub bearing - I needed to get better access as I was working from the side of the car, so I released the upper control arm from the hub carrier. This can be identified bolt going through a bush ion the hub carrier, control arm and holding bracket for the brake hose and cables. I used a trolley jack to hold the suspension in place and left it there throughout the hub removal and fitting process. Next I undid the top bolt on the anti-roll bar and let the suspension down using the jack.
Removing the star bolts was hard as they are hidden away, and I sheared the lesser 1/4" T55 socket - but with a new 1/2" T55, a short wrench extension and the steel tube on the handle, they eventually loosened .... relief....: a torch is handy to get a look at the bolts.

Refitting was a reverse of removal, but aligning the control arm with the hub carrier was hard - the jack came in handy, a spare pair of hands and a 2X4 bit of wood knocked in between the ground and the new hub to raise it. I'm sure there are better ways of doing this....

The job took about 3 hours for both sides and saved £100s.

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