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conman

Mk1 Focus Tdci Timing Belt Change

24 posts in this topic

Hey guys, my 2001 1.8 TDCI is due a timing belt change. I know my Focus has both a chain and a belt, and the belt is due to be changed. The belt to be changed runs from the injector pump to camshaft and was wondering is there any hassle in changing this belt?...I was going to replace as follows:

1. Lift front of car onto axle stands

2. Unbolt and move water bottle out of the way.

3. Remove rocker cover.

4. Put car in gear and turn front wheel until I can side cam lock bar in.

5. Put jack under engine and remove engine mount.

6. Remove timing belt cover.

7. Remove tensioner and old timing belt.

8. Fit new belt and tensioner.

9. Remove holding pin from tensioner

10. Remove cam locking bar and turn front wheel around a few times by hand and check with lock tool fit ok after each turn.

I was reading around and remember someone saying that you don’t need to lock the crankshaft as this shouldn’t move unless forced and that the injector pump does not need to be timed to the camshaft on the TDCI but only on the TDDI, so would this be sound advice?

Just a few more questions.

1. Do I really need the car on stands or can I just jack up on one side or do I even need to jack it up at all?

2. Is it better to rotate the engine using the front wheel or using the crack pulley?

3. Do I need to take any wheels off?

Sorry for the daft questions but any info on this would be really helpful guys as I don’t want to wreck all round me due to a stupid small mistake.

Here is a picture of what my belt looks like.

post-11251-0-93610100-1341781144_thumb.j

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Personally i think if your gonna tackle the job yourself I'd invest in a Hayes manual,,, worth their weight in gold. I'm pretty sure its going to be a bit more in depth than the description you've put, but it does sound along the right lines. A cam locking kit is usually used, but you could always lock it up using a drill bit,, there should be a hole in the cam sprocket that lines up with a hole behind when the timing is top dead centre. I would advise using at least this, as mistakes can be very expensive. As far as wheels go, I'd imagine at the very least your going to have to remove the drivers side wheel. Just as a thought, if you have a kwik fit close by, if you asked nicely they may be able to print off a copy of fitting instructions for you, would save on buying a manual ;-)

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Thanks for the info Mike, I have ordered a locking kit but was told the only part I need is the long flat bar as it slides in the other end of camshaft to stop it moving. My nephew is a mechanic and even his info is hazy to say the least....lol. Just hoping someone on here has done their own timing belt and be able to steer me in the right direction. As for Kwikfit, don’t really want to go near them as the last time I went to them they sold me 4 tyres at £50 each and told me they were better than my Michelin tyres and ended up they were £33 Alpha Accelera tyres so I’ll give them a miss.

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Cheers Stoney, something tells me I dont even need this kit. People are telling me its a flat bar that locks the cam and you guys are telling me it's a hole:)

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TBH on reading up on the job, this looks best done by a garage.

You can lock the timing wheel with a drill bit but the cam sprocket has to come off to allow for timing reset and this is done using a tool that only Certain garages and Ford has access to.

The bar you mentioned is used to hold the cam sprocket still while you undo the bolt, it's like a Y shaped bar with 2 pins on it.

Up to you though and it of course depends on how proficient you are at mechanics.

Personally i'd go the garage route.

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I don't think the cam sprocket comes of mate as the timing does not need reset, you would only need to reset the timing if you took all apart without locking anything as this would put everything all over the place. I'm not a pro and I might be wrong but there is no need to take off the cam sprocket, it just doesnt make sense to me removing it, no offence mate.

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to do the job properly and ensure the timing is absolutely correct it is necessary to remove and reset it - this is why there is no key on the shafts.

the tools for holding the camshaft steady while you slacken the bolt are pretty bog standard, there are a few variants.

as for removing the camshaft pulley, its just a puller to remove it from the taper.

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I'm really lost now, seems a lot of hassle to change one single belt from injector pump to camshaft. Oh well, looks like I'm gonna end up leaving it into a garage after all. Thanks for all the info guys.

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I'm really lost now, seems a lot of hassle to change one single belt from injector pump to camshaft. Oh well, looks like I'm gonna end up leaving it into a garage after all. Thanks for all the info guys.

as Clive has already said really, if in doubt leave it to someone who knows. for the £200-£300 it will probably cost it could cost you dearly should it go wrong.

Also buy the time you tool up, the savings may be minimal or not at all

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Just a pity. The locking kit was £14 (Flat bar and 2 pins) and Timing belt kit £50 (Belt and tensioner), so was a bit of a good saving. The nephew is gonna take a look at it next week, he worked for Lindsay Ford for years, just need to get him sober long enough after the weekend to tell me whats what...lol.

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I don't really want to hammer the nail home but any minor misalignment will cause rough running that will bug the hell out of you.

If you end up way out then the resulting damage will empty your wallet faster than a divorce.

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I dont know the specifics for the 1.8tdci but in general you need to get the engine to TDC using a TDC pin and lock it there usually with a flywheel locking kit. On your car this will also stop the pump sprocket that you set your belt on from moving.

lock camshaft in position

remove belt and tensioner.

remove camshaft using suitable pulley holding tool - do not rely on the locking bar as you will bend the camshaft. there is a puller for removing the pulley from the taper but there are a few out there and any comprehensive kit will include one

thats you half way there.

the camshaft pulley should be refitted but not tightened, fit the new belt and tensioner and tighten the camshaft pulley - again using a suitable tool so you are not relying on the locking bar and damaging the camshaft

ensure you can turn the engine over with a spanner!!

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In case you do feel brave, here is the Haynes listed procedure so you can at least see what's required.

Sorry for the big pictures, but best so no details are unreadable.

scan0002.jpg

scan0004.jpg

scan0005.jpg

scan0006.jpg

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Cheers guys for taking the time to upload info etc, think I'll just leave it into the garage as suggested. I'm game enough to tackle most things but I'll not tempt fate on this one.

Very very much appreciated:)

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Probably a wise move Joe.

It made my head hurt reading up on it.

I'm brave but not that brave.

It seems a lot of work for something that on the surface seems like such an easy thing to remove.

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Cheers guys for taking the time to upload info etc, think I'll just leave it into the garage as suggested. I'm game enough to tackle most things but I'll not tempt fate on this one.

Very very much appreciated:)

things have changed alot, especially from older engines where you could just line the marks up and keyed shafts :lol:

once you have done it once, its quite straight forward - just keep an eye on manufacturers guidelines and notes.

but even where auto tensioners are fitted its still meant to be quite specific and the use of a tension gauge is recommended - that alone could set you back a few hundred quid

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It sure has, god i feel old now. ;)

haha, the last engine i done where it had marks on the cams and crank and keyed shafts was a 1.6 mx5 engine 1994 or there about?

bring that back anytime for me :lol:

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ha ha :) , once the mention of removing sprockets my hopes and dreams were shattered....lol. At least when the garage does it I'll have a guarantee and piece of mind. Cheers guys!

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Forewarned is forearmed.

It's best to know what's involved before diving in.

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ha ha :) , once the mention of removing sprockets my hopes and dreams were shattered....lol. At least when the garage does it I'll have a guarantee and piece of mind. Cheers guys!

never a bad move if you are ever in any doubt. best that you have made that decision now and dont have a car in bits thinking wtf have i got into - as i bet alot of people have done.

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It's not that hard!

You had it almost right in your first posting.

I watched my mechanic mate do my first one, and I've done 4 since, with no problems, latest being on my mk2 1.8 tdci.

tippex, confidence and an understanding of what's what.

If you want more info, I'll post it here, but it's quite a bit of typing for nothing if you still decide to go to a garage!

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I think I'll give it a miss Tommy, but thanks for the offer. Just having nightmares about the car being in bits and me scratching my head and saying (as Stef says) WTF...lol.

I'm very tempted and game as a badger but one wrong move and I could end up wrecking all around me. Think I'll pass on this one :)

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