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Help Needed Please

4 posts in this topic

a while ago i my s-max started to make a strange noise that turned out to be a buggered turbo look at whats left of the compressor wheel and to realy boggle your brains there was no damage to the compressor housing in any way shape or form oh and it gets better with no warning at all about 3 months ago she was sat ticking over on my drive and decided to spit the aux drive belt off not to big a deal till i took her to work and found she was making no compression when starting turned out the belt had been up the back of the cam belt casing knoked the timing out and compleatly killed all of the inlet valves i was gutted and they say it comes in threes well after spending a small fortune on a 225st head that had done 21k and the turbo that goes with it a puma speed dump valve blanking plate as i think it may be what killed the old turbo a lma alloy dumpvalve to replace it with a larger intercooler with all new alloy pipe work and silicone hoses to go with a new k&n panel filter and a new set of wheel and tyers to finish it off i have put it all together and ther seems to be a problem the cam shaft pully seems to have spun on the inlet and exhaust cams so there is no interfirance between the piston and valves and she still wont start after spending 4 hours on the phone to many ford dealers i was told that they do not rebuild this motor they just fit a new one at a cost of my sole in this life and the nxt not satisfied at this i spent even morew time on the phone to be told that there is a tool that you can buy to aligne the cam pullys to the shaft result it is a fortune to buy but im looking at 4-8 weeks for delivery can any body advise me of any way that i can time the pullys to the shafts without this tool i know where the timing marks are to aligne the two together but the one on the shaft is covered when the pully is fitted and the exhaust pully needs to be ste to 15degree retarded when fitted and the inlet needs to be fitted at 25degree retarded now with out the tool im in need of some ideas as to how to do it acuratley any surgestion here are a couple of pics of the car befor she died and a pic of what remains of the turbo cartridge i will post pics of the new bits and peices once i get her running again

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bump

any body any surgestions

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My suggestion is that you probably ought to have spent more on properly maintaining the car instead of modifications. Once you start going down the modded route you're pretty much on your own.

Better to return the engine back to standard and go from there - remove dump valve, refit standard head, standard interoooler etc.

The 2.5T is a very robust engine & turbo in standard form as many Volvo owners will testify.

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i have put it all together and ther seems to be a problem the cam shaft pully seems to have spun on the inlet and exhaust cams so there is no interfirance between the piston and valves and she still wont start after spending 4 hours on the phone to many ford dealers i was told that they do not rebuild this motor they just fit a new one at a cost of my sole in this life and the nxt not satisfied at this i spent even morew time on the phone to be told that there is a tool that you can buy to aligne the cam pullys to the shaft result it is a fortune to buy

but im looking at 4-8 weeks for delivery can any body advise me of any way that i can time the pullys to the shafts without this tool i know where the timing marks are to aligne the two together but the one on the shaft is covered when the pully is fitted and the exhaust pully needs to be ste to 15degree retarded when fitted and the inlet needs to be fitted at 25degree retarded now with out the tool im in need of some ideas as to how to do it acuratley any surgestion here are a couple of pics of the car befor she died and a pic of what remains of the turbo cartridge i will post pics of the new bits and peices once i get her running again

Hi and welcome to the forum,

you have one nice motor their mate,

and its a shame about the problems your facing,

i have a foucs diesel haynes manual and it shows images and ifo for changing the timing belt and other cogs etc.

the haynes manual explains that you can use certain sized drill bits to lock the cogs in to location before replacing the chain or belt.

they tell you what size and where to put it so it may be worth the £12 investment in purchasing a haynes manual for the motor.

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