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Guide To Fitting Scangaugeii In St Gauge Pod.


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#1 james132

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Posted 14 July 2012 - 04:18 PM

So this is a guide, inspired by Lenny, to fit a ScanGaugeII inside a Focus St gauge pod.

Parts you will need:

St gauge pod
St gauge pod surround (optional)
ScanGuage (I have chosen scanguageII, but there are several models available)
Glue
Perspex sheet, A4 size is plenty big enough, 1.5mm thick (don't go any thicker, you will see why later in the guide)

Tools you will need:

T25 Torx
Drill, I used 10mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm.
Dremil or something else to cut/shape the perspex sheet
Flat blade screw driver
Stanley blade
Rule (something straight)

First off you will need to remove the dash storage compartment, this can be done by either removing the speed/rpm dials, or it can be done by prizing it off using a flat blade screwdriver. I done it with a flat blade screwdriver without damaging any of the surfaces by putting a cloth over the end.

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Once removed you will have a hole like this ^^

My next step (due to buying a st gauge pod with missing part and having to wait to get my hands on another) was to position the cable. For this locate the OBD port on the right hand side under the steering wheel.

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To remove this trim piece, remove the T25 Torx screw from just above the OBD plug and then the trim simply unclips. Be careful not to let the trim drop or 'yank' it too hard as the OBD plug will still be attached.
To remove the OBD plug push through from the front of the panel and release the clip either side on the rear.

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Once the trim piece is removed you can now cut your hole to feed the connection cable for the scangauge through. I started by drilling a small pilot hole below the hole for the OBD plug, then drilled through with a 10mm drill piece. The hole then needs to be elongated slightly to allow for the connector to pass through (12mm wide) I used a dremil to take the extra material away. Once you have a hole big enough to feed the plug through it should look a little like this.

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(Perhaps a little neater, but it is hidden when fitted)

To refit the panel to the car is just reverse of removing, only this time you will need to feed your connection wire through the hole you just made up to the top of the dash where the scangauge will be mounted. There's plenty of space to feed the wire straight up. Also note when putting the trim piece back on to make sure the rubber seal goes back over the edge that's near the door.

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Now it's time to mount the ScanGaugeII inside the st gauge pod.

To remove the gauges from the pod simply unscrew the two T25 torx screws that are in the bottom of the gauges holding them in place, once removed they simply slide straight out.

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(Note in the picture above there is a small part of the trim missing, yours should have this part like in the final pictures)
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Once they are out I used them to make an outline on the perspex sheet, this means it should pretty much fit straight away

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(sorry for bad quality pictures!)

Once marked out cut it out with a dremil (make sure you ware eye protection!) Leave a couple of mm over the lines then shave down for a nice fit.

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Next I removed the 4 cross head screws from each corner of the back of the scangauge, this allows you to remove the front cover of the gauge.

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This is the part were you need to position your scangauge in the pod, I found the easiest way to do this was to use 'buletack' to stick the front panel of the scangauge onto the perspex sheet, then fit the perspex sheet into place. Reposition the scangauge front on the perspex until the correct position is achieved. Once it's in place I then used a marker to mark out the screen and the holes for the buttons. (At this point I forgot to take a picture)

Before cutting and drilling the perspex sheet I made a card template to test first. So transfer the markings from the perspex onto the card. Then again hold in position to make sure it looks ok.

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If it looks good to you, then cut out the holes to allow the scangauge to fit for a final check before drilling the perspex.

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If this is all ok you can move onto drilling the holes for the buttons. The buttons are about 4/4.5mm in dia. I first used a 3mm drill bit, then 4mm and then went through again with 5mm. This allows the buttons to fit through and can be pressed easily.

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Check that the perspex sheet fits over the scangauge

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#2 james132

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Posted 14 July 2012 - 11:07 PM

Once everything fits correctly I then wrapped the perspex sheet with matt black wrap. As you can see in the picture below I marked out the sheet on the back of the wrap, I also marked out the hole which needed to be cut out to allow you to see the screen.

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Cut the screen hole out with a stanley blade then apply the wrap to the sheet after peeling off the protective sheet on the front face of the perspex. (Once the wrap is applied to the front you can remove the rear protective sheet from the perspex and fold the wrap around the edges).

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Now this step you will need a hot glue gun. Simply secure the scangauge to the perspex sheet.

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Once this was drying I come up with a way of securing the gauge inside the pod.

With the rest of the perspex sheet I cut a strip 80mm x 15mm to fit across the bottom of the scangauge and secure to the original mounting points of the st clocks. Then a hole at each end to secure it to the pod.

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Once you make sure it fits, slide the gauge into place and fit the perspex strip you just made.

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This for me was enough to secure the gauge into place, I gave it a good shake about and it didn't budge.
This also means that it is easy to remove the gauges as opposed to if they were glued in.

Final step is to fit onto the dash, connect the plug and admire the job you have done :)

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I'm still undecided on whether to wrap the pod in carbon or not to match the rest of the dash. (Opinions??)

I hope it all makes scenes and is easy to understand, it's quite hard to explain some parts. C+C Welcome, thanks for looking.

#3 james132

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 01:24 PM

Guide finished, hope you like it :D

#4 Stoney871

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 01:30 PM

Very nicely done indeed.
Tbh I'd leave the pod black to keep some contrast.
Carbon wrap is good but too much can overwhelm.

#5 gc88

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 03:47 PM

Boys got skills...

#6 james132

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 04:06 PM

Cheers guys. Loving this mod so far.

Will be playing with the backlight colour when its darker, see what suits it best.

#7 Lenny

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 06:14 PM

Posted ImageExcellent work done mate,
the scangauge fitment is absolutly Fantastic!! looking foward to the night pictures too Posted ImagePosted Image
looks 100% OEM and matches the dial screen perfectly,

#8 james132

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 06:26 PM

Posted ImageExcellent work done mate,
the scangauge fitment is absolutly Fantastic!! looking foward to the night pictures too Posted ImagePosted Image
looks 100% OEM and matches the dial screen perfectly,


Cheers Lenny, im quite happy how its turned out. Could be a little better, if the slight inperfections anoy me enough I might have a play and sort it.

#9 james132

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 09:57 PM

Night shots (still not played with colour settings, theres so many it will take a little time)

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#10 Lenny

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 10:02 PM

the colour looks spot on match mate and no glare from it at all,
this may fit in the port slot for you mate
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4ab99b0d91
does it illuminate along with the activation of the interior lights or is it illuminated all of the time?

#11 james132

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Posted 20 July 2012 - 09:41 AM

Its illuminated all the time when the ignition is on. But during the day, depending on what colour you have it set to, you cant really see the colour.

You can also dim the colour with 3 brightness settings, mines currently at the brightest setting.

The link to the splitter cable is good, iv seen some people in the states using that to run two scangauge's at once. Not many had attempted to mount them for the OEM look though.

#12 james132

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Posted 25 July 2012 - 02:12 PM

Bit of an update....

Last couple of days havnt been able to use the buttons on the scangauge, this is because the recent hot weather has actually managed to melt the glue holding the gauge to the perspex!

Iv taken it out and glued it again in the hope that it will stick this time, if not may need to use a different type of glue.

May be worth thinking about if you live in a hot country lol.

#13 Lenny

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Posted 25 July 2012 - 02:16 PM

Bit of an update....

Last couple of days havnt been able to use the buttons on the scangauge, this is because the recent hot weather has actually managed to melt the glue holding the gauge to the perspex!

Iv taken it out and glued it again in the hope that it will stick this time, if not may need to use a different type of glue.
May be worth thinking about if you live in a hot country lol.


what brand of glue dod you use mate?
may be worth looking in to some high heat resistant stuff.

#14 Stoney871

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Posted 25 July 2012 - 02:19 PM

A thin skim of clear sillicone may do the job.

#15 james132

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Posted 25 July 2012 - 03:58 PM

No idea on the brand lenny, just some old ones that were laying about, might be the reason. Il look up if they do any high temp resistant sticks, sounds silly though as they have to melt to be used? ...

Il see how long it lasts this time, if it fails again il have to change to something different, as Clive said, silicone may be the way.

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