jeebowhite Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 its an expensive fix sadly, well, if you dont try yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wobbo Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 hi all, firstly thanks for this guide, just been to get some fuel and thought may as well check oil/fluids and guess what, yep cant open my bonnet, so i have to get some long pliers and try this guide. spoke to my garage and was told the lock/cable+ fitting will be £150++++ so i hope this will work wish me luck cheers hi again, well i have been trying to do this with a mate but to no avail, my 07 climate seems to be a differant layout to the pics in the first post, . we got the rubber seal of the collet, but its further back and higher up than the pics, this makes it hard to get the screwdriver above the cable and flat against the collet + there is some part, maybe from AC or heater in the way. Things got worse to when i picked up my daughter and the car didnt start, had to bump it, which worked, so now im in double trouble, bit of a catch 22, cant fix one without the other, looks like more drastic action is required. not happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 Post some pictures up and we may be able to assist. Also you might find that whilst its a bit tricky, if you jack up and support the front end of the car with axle stands, remove the engine undertray, you might be able to stretch your arm up through the radiator and grill and do the extra bits you need to from there, or you might need to find a longer screwdriver? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wobbo Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 Post some pictures up and we may be able to assist. Also you might find that whilst its a bit tricky, if you jack up and support the front end of the car with axle stands, remove the engine undertray, you might be able to stretch your arm up through the radiator and grill and do the extra bits you need to from there, or you might need to find a longer screwdriver? yeah we did remove the undertray and reach up, but because the collet is higher up and not straight behind the key barrel cant get the screwdriver straight because of the angle of going through the grill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 are you using a long reach screwdriver? a normal size wont work. I picked a couple of long handled drivers up from my local 99p store family :) Keeping an eye on something like this, you could pick it up cheap: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Screwdriver-Set-3pc-Extra-Long-Screwdriver-Sets-Screwdrivers-Long-Reach-/201105111695?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2ed2cc7a8f Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wobbo Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 yeah we had some long drivers, its the angle thats the prob, going to try again, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stebo88 Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 I have the same problem with my 07 focus. When the bonnet is down it is a nightmare to open again but once its open the mechanism works fine. Can it be fixed? Everytime i need to get into me bonnet it takes ages to get it open and is very frustrating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 push down on the bonnet above the catch, this helps to take the pressure off and makes it easier to open. I would suggest that you buy the replacement kit and get it done next time you get the bonnet open, to prevent you from getting it closed once and for all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAL Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Hi Guys, I'm the latest member to join, and I'm hoping someone can help me. I've read with great interest the posts regarding opening the Focus bonnet, but there's no bowden cable or white collar visible through the plastic grill on my car, the model is 2004 1.8L estate diesel, the key and 2 spares refuse to move either way. I need to gain access to hydraulic reservoir to bleed brakes,so it's rather urgent, local Ford dealer estimated £150! I'll be really greatful if any member can help, Thanks in anticipation. JAL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crinkmeister Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 There has to be another way of opening this STUPID bonnet!! I have just spent over 2 hours trying to open an 07 plate Focus bonnet. I've had long thin screwdrivers, shorter fatter screwdrivers, I've pushed as hard as I can on top, left, right, bottom, top again and again and again..... Turning key, pushing bonnet down, bouncing bonnet, pushing key, not pushing key, two pairs of hands and not so much as a click. Now I'm a confident DIYer and a reasonable home mechanic but this has to be THE MOST IDIOTIC design for a bonnet catch!!! What total numbskull came up with this? Do I need to rip the grill out to get to the release? Sorry for the rant - I'm just a little p***ed off with it right now. I'll go and get a Snickers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 It's tricky but sometimes biting the bullet is the easiest answer. If you have put the pressure all around and pushed on the bonnet while turning the key then there is not much more to do other than repeat the efforts Sent from my MY SAGA C2 using Ford OC mobile app Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bristolben Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 I'm another victim of this problem but I maybe in deep trouble. I managed to pop the lower part of the grill off and noticed the end of the plastic catch had snapped. I then tried to twist the catch to see if the bonnet would open but the piece came off in my hand so I am now unsure if I can open the bonnet by removing the rubber bung and applying pressure with a screw driver? :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crinkmeister Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Could anyone please describe the next, more destructive, step to opening this bonnet? I assume that I am going to have to replace the grill, so once through there, am I drilling out fixing bolts or does it involve more work on the white plastic collet or the cable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 I would price up a new bonnet, perhaps an angle grinder around the joint could work. I would say dont, just take it to Ford and leave it to be their problem. It will be a damned site cheaper in the long run! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crinkmeister Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 OK. Here's my solution: Buy a replacement grill from ECP and a bonnet lock repair kit from your friendly local Ford dealer. While you're at the Ford dealer, ask the very helpful service manager how to get the ****ing bonnet open. Listen very carefully to what he says, follow his advice, and after an hour or so working through the hole in the grill that you neatly made with your multi-tool, you will be able to access the white cross shaped coupler that you need to turn with some long nose pliers or (as in my case) a wedged-on box spanner to open the bonnet. When the stupid thing is open, rejoice quietly and repeat "well, that wasn't so bad" many times until you believe it. Remove your existing lock barrel by pushing out the long rollpin and sawing across the top of the two short ones until you can fish them out. Insert old lock barrel into new cable assembly and secure with rollpins from the kit. Undo two 10mm bolts that hold lock mechanism and remove. Pull out old cross coupler and any remnants of the old white plaastic housing and connect the new cable. Poke through hole and refit bolts. Assemble and fit new grill and push lock barrel into its locating slot, ensuring that plastic catches hold it in place. Check many many times to the point of onset of OCD that the key now operates the lock mechanism BEFORE CLOSING THE BONNET!!!!! Carfefully close bonnet with a firm push - don't drop it down. I can't pretend it was easy, but should only take half a day for a first attempt. I should be quicker next time................ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 Excellent guides. I tried all the suggestions on this site as the bonnet on my 2006 Focus also wouldn't open. Unfortunately none worked for me so I took it to a local mechanic. He removed the grille by lifting the bonnet slightly to get to the plastic screw in plugs that hold it in place. They are located at the top corners of the grille and can be levered out, gently to avoid breaking them. The lock can then be removed. The reason the solutions on here didn't work for me is because the cable connecting the key barrel to the locking mechanism had stretched or perished enough for it not to be tight enough to unlock the bonnet. With the whole lock removed you could see the key turning the 'male' connector but if you held the connector you could still turn the key. In my situation I need a whole new lock. Don't tell any car thieves! but I opted for the quick fix of leaving the lock off the car and using a flat head screwdriver, pushed through the space left by removing the barrel, pushed into the 'female' connector to turn it left then right (as the key would normally do). My key to unlock the bonnet is a screwdriver for now! Apologises if I've posted (by mistake) another version of my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggsouth Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 Great guide mate. However, the photos don't show up :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texas Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 I thought I should register so I could say thanks for the guide. My 59-plate Zetec has this issue and I have been able to use the screwdriver trick to open the bonnet to replace a bulb. I don't seem able to get it to click back into place permanently so maybe a trip to the garage will still be required, but this is a lot better than not being able to get in at all. Thanks for the help Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troy45 Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 If you can get the bonnet up the latch/cable mechanism can be fixed by removing the latch and cable mechanism from the car then snip the corners off the small plastic joining piece which mates with the latch, then tapping it back in. Trimming the corners off the plastic piece helps it go back into the latch easier, these usually need closing up for the piece to engage which is why you can't fix it all in situ if the cable pops out. Had to do this on my car long time back when I'd removed the front grille slightly unevenly. It had re-engaged with the lock barrel without me noticing and pulled the cable away when the grille came off. Luckily I was at an ST specialist garage (Profile Automotive) at the time and Gary there showed me exactly what to do :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micro Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Damn Feck !Removed! Drink! Opened my bonnet this afternoon with the idea to look where I can route my new front parking sensor unit + sensor, didn't open easily (lots of key turning) and it finally popped. I have no idea if i've hit a pot hole and the white key had jumped out, but my god what a lot of swearing and resisting the urge to chuck it across the room. Removed the whole lock assembly from the car took 2 hours to get it back in (Squeezing the two little catches on the lock mech, then quickly refitting the collar to it), and carefully refitting to the car. Dreading having to remove the front grill again to actually fit the parking sensors! Ta for the information and pics in the first post, very helpful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmadeusMozart Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 I just registered to say thanks - it saved me a lot of trouble after discovering I could not open the bonnet. I've read reports that the little plastic cross has a habit of failing so ordered a new one of eBay which has now finally arrived. I used to tinker with cars but not in the last 20 years. Before starting to take things apart what do I need to do to replace this little plastic cross and which legs of the cross need to be removed? Any tricks in gettings this re-assembled? Many thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troy45 Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Not replaced the plastic cross myself but see photo below showing the ears you'd need to trim. If you trim the outer corners so they angle inwards (like the other end) they fit into the bonnet latch a lot easier. Looking at the photo it's pretty obvious now why the piece can come out of the latch so easily but is a pain in the butt to refit :( - you'd think both ends would be the same as the left side where the ears are angled to help it it fit in, then lock in place. Maybe they've done it this way to engineer in a weak point for some reason or other, crash tests maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micro Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 It appeared when I dismantled mine that any rotational force on the outer jacket of the lock cable results in the inner key pulling away from the collar (as well as pulling forces) presumably to prevent people trying to turn the lock barrel/cable. Worth being aware of if attempting to dismantle the grill/front of car. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Ford OC mobile app Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmadeusMozart Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 Thanks for the replies - still not clear on what to take apart. Do I undo the two 10mm bolts on the latch and can I then replace this or do I need to take the cable out from the front? Without taking it apart I get the impression it may be better to file an angle to these ends like the ones at the other end so whatever they need to get into will be easier. Does anyone know what the purpose of these legs are - is it for the anti-tamper, easy to slip out and very hard to get back in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoney871 Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 It is indeed an anti-tamper device, unfortunately it is a weak point that can rear it's head at any time. It is strongly recommended that any work in/around the lock mechanism or involving removal of the bumper is undertaken carefully and steps are taken to support the mechanism using a suitably sized block of wood. Some advocate using drinks cans apparently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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