Mondeo Mk4 Central Door Lock (Its Beat Me)

[Raptor]

Please help me.... My Mk4 mondeo 57 plate has finally let me down (not in a big way). I locked it up the other day and noticed the rear passengers door did not lock. You a can hear the motor trying to pull the lock on though. I have taken the door panel off and all is ok. The cable moves just fine. The door will lock manually.......It just seems the motor has lost power. Any ideas on this? Is this a common fault....

Your help is most wanted

[Stoney871]

Its usually damp in the central locking solenoid.

Plenty of WD40 into the unit.

[Raptor]

Thanks for that.... I will take it off and give it a good soaking, any other things it maybe?

[Stoney871]

Check for damaged wires in the door umbilical and corroded contacts.

[Raptor]

I have done all the above and it is still not working, i have also tried a reset, I have tried it with doors open, nope she is not having it. Looks like I am going to have to splash the cash on a new unit. Many thanks for your help with this issue....... any info would be still welcome. I am away for two weeks so wont get round to purchasing it till then....

[sakos]

I have the same problem with my 2008 Mondeo.

The left rear door will not close neither open together with the other ones. The lock moves easily when I operate it manually. The modul should have electricity because it stirs sligthly at the end positions, but it does not move when I place the handle into the middle position.

I suspect faulty position detection which inhibits the motor movement.

Raptor, have you solved the problem? Do you have a guide how to remove the module?

[sakos]

Finally I replaced the door lock module with a new one. No it is working well.

However I could not resist to investigate the faulty module. It was easy to diassembly it. And I found the root cause. It is the small electric motor inside the motor. Its current consumption was really high. I took apart and found short circuit among commutators caused by powder of carbon brushes. After cleaning it works like a charm.

[Elemer]

I Can't imagine how you took apart those 2 little motors inside the locking module,

They are soldered on the printed board first of all.

Secondly, it very looks like they are not meant to be fiddling around with.

Just buy a new EXPENSIVE module (--- tipical Ford solution).

I am really curious how did you managed to take those electric motors appart.

[jeebowhite]

Just as a heads up to you all who have this motor! I had a similar issue, I removed the fuse and reinserted in the wrong place! so the other doors would lock but not the rear offside. It had me scratching my head, and I eventually found it out!

I would have been scratching my head for a long enough time as I never realised that each door is fused!

So if you do have this issue, check the door fuse before worrying about anything else!

[sawdust]

I seem to have exactly the same problem. The door manual lock lever just moves a little, but fails to 'throw' the lock over either to lock or open. An earlier suggestion was to soak the central locking unit with WD40. Is the central locking unit in this case attached directly to the door latch mechanism? or is it elsewhere? If the problem is down to these small motors, then is it possible to blow air through them to get the dust cleared? I really don't want to have to fit new units as I note that the front passenger door is starting to show the same problem.

Any guidance on this would be gratefully received.

[sakos]

Hi,

This is the rare case when WD40 will not help. I sent this descripton two years ago, maybe helps:

I cannot recall exactly how I removed the door lock module, however it was not too tricky.

You should know that the module is built together a plastic mount which holds the external door handle.

See the picture here: http://breakers.asm-autos.co.uk/parts-breaking-tyres/part-details/Ford-Mondeo-2007-To-2010-Zetec-Door-Front-Central-Locking-Solenoid-LH/0/4925/#

So, you need to dismount the external handler. There is a hole on the edge of the door, above the 3 screws of door lock mechanism. A plastic cap covers it. If you remove the cap you can release the smaller, fix part of the handle by !Removed! off the screw in the hole.

After the removal the fix part, you can unlock and probably completely remove the moving part of the handle. Then the door lock module should come out.

I hope this is correct the way of removal and my answer will help you. Good luck!

If you remove the module the disassembly is easy. After removal some screws the case can be opened. You will the small motor. It seems soldered however it isn't. It has sliding contacts. It can be lifted and removed. (at least mine was like this).

The tricky part is the motor disassembly. The metal case has two small locks which holds the plastic back of the motor. You have to blend those locks to release the plastic part. The gaps between the commutators shall be cleaned.

That's all.

[sakos]

http://froodystuff.blogspot.hu/2014/03/neato-robotics-oh-dont-give-me-none.html

[sawdust]

Thanks for the info, Sakos. And for the froody link as well. I assume that the Neato motors are at least similar to the Mondeo ones and the same approach should be taken. Due to external pressures I shall have to put the fix on hold for a few weeks, but I'll get back to it then and expect great success - or a visit to a local scrap yard!!

[ian123running]

I had the same problem with my 2007 Mondeo Titanium X - the rear passenger door would not lock using the remote but you could hear a clicking sound and see that the lock level inside the car twitching. This was a pain as it unlocked fine so we were always accidentally leaving the door unlocked. Thanks all on this thread - I removed the lock / door handle, took the locking mechanism apart and finally reached the two electric motors. Amazing how complex these modules are - I took plenty of photos and made notes to make sure I could re-assemble. I managed to take apart both motors - the first looked in good condition, while the second was really dirty the brushes / commutators were covered in black muck. A good clean, and careful re-assembly and the thing worked perfectly first time! Saved £££. Interestingly I noticed a tiny washer / seal in the 'failed' motor was loose in the motor assembly, presumably been this way since it was assembled - maybe this was what led to ingress of muck so it's now fitted back on the motor shaft where is belongs. Anyway THANKS to all above particularly SAKOS who provided some key info to the puzzle!!

Ian

[jeebowhite]

Ian, would you be willing to do a step by step guide for the forum of how to resolve it.

[sakos]

Ian, great work!

I am really happy that my hints were useful. Please share some pictures and step by step guide. I forgot to take photos and cannot provide a clear guidance when try to help others.

IMHO the source of the muck is the material of brushes and not external dust. The other motor was in better condition due to much less operational cycles. (I assume you have keyless entry)

[ian123running]

Sakos - you are probably right. I don't actually now what function each motor serves so if one is used much more than the other then that could explain it. It was the one with the worm drive that had failed. The plastic casing was otherwise clean and dry inside so I think you are probably right about the cause.

I'm busy for a couple of days but will try to put some pictures up later with a bit more explanation.

Ian

[Drew2015]

Thanks to contributors of this excellent thread. Exact same problem as described with o/s/r central locking becoming erratic then failing to operate.

What complicated my experience was my decision to take a trip to a car breaker where I opted to transfer a full new latch assembly from a freshly breaking 57 plate mondeo in its entirety rather than take the motor apart ( easier I thought ! ) To my bewilderment the swapped latch from the breakers displayed the exact same symptoms ie not working ! Then swapped the door module for good measure this would sort it . .. Still not working

This put doubt in my diagnosis of a faulty motor surely the swapped latch did not have the exact same fault ?? Luckily I tried it before I left the breakers as they were looking for £30 .

Back to read this thread again ....... It must be the motor !!! Followed the stripping down of door lock motor to get to the 2 actuators My wife thought I was losing the plot by this time

Took my time and took photos and some notes for re assembly . The small actuator looked fine but the larger one was full of black carbon sludge... So bad I thought it had totally worn out .... What a mess ! Anyhow cleaned it up with cotton ear swabs dipped in meths and reassembled.

Back to car .. I was dab hand by this time of assembling the latch assembly. Would it work ....!!????????

Bingo ... right away and sounding a healthy locking/ unlocking noise.,

Ford garage quoting £125 for motor part and labour would have taken it well over £200. Also highlighted downside of using car breakers in this instance . Credit to those early pioneers on the thread

[jeebowhite]

Well done on the overall job!

Since you took many photos... Would you be willing to put up a how to guide?

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

[Mark M]

I did a how to for this on another forum a little while ago if it's any help?

http://www.talkford.com/community/topic/241761-how-to-fix-central-locking-motors/

[jeebowhite]

that is awesome, would you be willing to copy it over to here?

[JohnPS65]

My nearside rear passenger door seemed to have lost all power as neither the lock or winows would operate. Problem was the door was in the locked position with the child lock also activated. This meant that I could not open the door to remove the door card and access any of the wiring, plugs, switches or control modules which may have been at fault. 

The solution I found was to loosen and remove the rear door hinge bolts by accessing them from the front passenger door, and then moving the door out by a few centimetres so I could access the screws to the door card that I could not reach previously. Having done this, I then removed the screw from the inner door opening handle, and the two screws behind the crome cover on the lower handle and lifted and pulled the door card away from the door. This then gave me enough access to reach the door control module which is located top right of the door, just underneath the opening handle and lock mechanism. I then unplugged and removed  the module by unscrewing the three small screws that attached it to the door, then replaced the faulty module with a working replacement purchased from eBay and reassembled. Problem solved! 

I hope this is of use to anyone else with the same problem. Good luck! 

[The_Bookman]

On 4/22/2019 at 3:54 PM, JohnPS65 said:

My nearside rear passenger door seemed to have lost all power as neither the lock or winows would operate. Problem was the door was in the locked position with the child lock also activated. This meant that I could not open the door to remove the door card and access any of the wiring, plugs, switches or control modules which may have been at fault. 

The solution I found was to loosen and remove the rear door hinge bolts by accessing them from the front passenger door, and then moving the door out by a few centimetres so I could access the screws to the door card that I could not reach previously. Having done this, I then removed the screw from the inner door opening handle, and the two screws behind the crome cover on the lower handle and lifted and pulled the door card away from the door. This then gave me enough access to reach the door control module which is located top right of the door, just underneath the opening handle and lock mechanism. I then unplugged and removed  the module by unscrewing the three small screws that attached it to the door, then replaced the faulty module with a working replacement purchased from eBay and reassembled. Problem solved! 

I hope this is of use to anyone else with the same problem. Good luck! 

I just wanted to post this to say thanks very much for the tip re the door bolts. I've had exactly the same problem, with the same door and it was looking like a world of grief (and money) to get the door open to get the door card off, so this was an absolute lifesaver. 

My solution was also the same - a £10 replacement door module from eBay. 

Thanks again.