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Focus Mk2.5 Electrical Problems


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#1 Lenny

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 09:41 AM

Hi all,
I'm lenny,
Having some trouble with what I think is the battery.
The 1.6TDCi engine has been a tad hesitant in recent months when starting the engine but I was putting this down to glow plugs.

But after working night shift last night, I left work at 7am to find it was 3°C outside and the car didn't start first time.
It took two 15 second churns to get her going.
I then had the A/C on hot, the front and rear heater wires in the windows active, the drl's front fogs and H7 dipped beam lights on.

So I began to drive home and quicly noticed that the dipped beam light was dim aswell as the heater blower.
Then when I put my foot down on the accelerater the lights got brighter and fan blew harder lol

So I switched off the front fogs, rear demister, front windscreen element, stereo, drl's and the A/C
Resulting in no fluctuation of light from the H7 low beam.
I then took it for a run to generate some charge for the battery but the missus has gone out in it now and it was hesitant on start up again!!
That's with no lights on or heater just the ignition and gauge pod.
I done the secret menu trick to find the volt figures from the ECU and acording to the sensors.
Parked engine off reading: 12.6 Volts
Parked engine ON reading: 14.5 Volts
So the altinator seems to be fine.
The car was in storage from august 2011 - march 2012 I fear this may have taken some battery life span.
Or maybe too many short journeys with the A/C always on and the stero at level 25.

Any advise greatfully received
Or
Any suggestions that it may not be the battery?

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#2 k13r4n

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 10:23 AM

My advice would be to go get ur battery tested some places do it free in Aberdeen but dunno about where u r it won't harm to check then u will know if it is the battery

#3 Lenny

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 10:31 AM

My advice would be to go get ur battery tested some places do it free in Aberdeen but dunno about where u r it won't harm to check then u will know if it is the battery

Thanks, I'll get it checked on Monday,
What's the chances of it recharging itself if I drive for a few weeks with minimum electronics used.

#4 Stoney871

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 10:55 AM

It's usually the belief that a 12v battery is 12v and that's that.
Actually a 12v battery will put out more and if it reads near to or below 12v then technically it's flat.
12v is the minimum it needs to work after that it's knackered.

#5 Lenny

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 11:36 AM

It's usually the belief that a 12v battery is 12v and that's that.
Actually a 12v battery will put out more and if it reads near to or below 12v then technically it's flat.
12v is the minimum it needs to work after that it's knackered.

Thanks mate.
Sounds good to me atleast it has been easily diagnosed and directly replaced.
Id like to replace it with a carbon fibre super light weight battery from brail but being more realistic lol
Would you replace with another ford silver or somthing better.
Or what is better in terms of battery.

Posted Image

Had planned to fit a pivot mega raizen volt stabiliser kit next month to regulate voltage may need to pospone that one for the momment.

#6 artscot79

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 03:33 PM

the answer is in the post ....then had the A/C on hot, the front and rear heater wires in the windows active, the drl's front fogs and H7 dipped beam lights on.

aircon 25amps front screen around 50amps rear screen 30 amps thats 105 amps already then add the drls the fogs and headlamps you simply had too much on mate you dont have any issues the lights would dim with just the front and rear heated windows on you should whilst stationary use the front and rear heated screen switch the front off asap then start driving i think youve been overdoing it with the electrics and short trips mate

#7 Stoney871

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 03:37 PM

Maybe you need to remove some led's. :P
(running for cover now)

#8 Lenny

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 04:24 PM

the answer is in the post ....then had the A/C on hot, the front and rear heater wires in the windows active, the drl's front fogs and H7 dipped beam lights on.

aircon 25amps front screen around 50amps rear screen 30 amps thats 105 amps already then add the drls the fogs and headlamps you simply had too much on mate you dont have any issues the lights would dim with just the front and rear heated windows on you should whilst stationary use the front and rear heated screen switch the front off asap then start driving i think youve been overdoing it with the electrics and short trips mate

Ok mate,
So do you reckon the battery would recover itself in time or am I better to purchase a new battery?
If a new battery then would halfords or ford be the better supplier.
And to prevent this in the future I should keep the heaters to a minimum.
I assumed the car could handle the windscreen heater etc. But I understand the volume of amps was sucking hard on the battery.
Also I would like to ask,
Would the drls and ford gauges consume that much power?
They are on along with the engine both just for illumination purposes.
With the gauges running through a DRLR1 auto dimmer that cuts their illumination by 50% on night driving.
All of the lighting is led.
And my trip to work is 12 miles each way, I'll keep the A/C off in future.

Could I purchase a better battery ? Or is a new battery required?
I have plans to fit a pivot voltage stabiliser kit to smooth the flat spots in power too.

#9 Lenny

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 04:34 PM

Maybe you need to remove some led's. :P
(running for cover now)

Suppose its a valid point mate,
But they all come on at seperate times so I'm not sure to be honest because the boot only illuminates when open, and the reverse the same, I keep the cup holder lighting and bird bath lighting switched off,
So then theirs the front/rear footwell lighting with ignition ring
They come on at start and finish of journeys but the main illumination is off always. Ie. Roof lighting units always off.
Then when engine running its the drls on and the ford gauge illumination which is fed through a genlabs drlr1 auto dimmer.
And only one of the gauges powers a sensor for oil, the other gauge is mechanical so only requires power for illumination.
So although lots of lighting is in place, not all of it is in constant use lol

#10 btmaldon

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 04:36 PM

Lenny. I would get som Bat Aid tablets from Halfords and drop those into the cells and top up with distilled water if necessary. If the battery has been running at only part charged for a period of time the cells would have started to sulphate which would reduce its efficiency. Once the plates are clan of sulphate the battery should take a full charge again.

#11 Brigante

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 04:37 PM

lol if it is the leds you've got me worried too now also :P

#12 artscot79

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 05:03 PM

a free battery check is all you need they will tell you if its okay running the heaters will be fine but the front and rear demisters suck the juice and on a 12 mile journey the battery doesnt get a chance to recharge the juice used what i do is get in the car lights off if the front window heater has to be used switch it on with the car idling and aiurcon to window within 30 secs the window should be clear switch the front heated screen off now you can switch on the rear and get going i only use the rear for a few minutes usually the aircon set to feet and windscreen on 3 will clear it all up and driver window open a crack that way it clears quickly whenever possible i use as little electrics as i can just to give the battery a breather as i do short trips 10 miles each way as well mate

also remember the ecu stores the outside temp as it was when you switch off the car if its dropped a fair bit it can take a bit longer to compensate for the variance say you parked up at 13degrees and you come out its 3 degrees thats a large drop in temp and requires a bit more preheating on a diesel

have a free check done but i think its just the short trips and all the electrics drawing the juice and the battery not getting a chance to recover it try a good drive every now and again just to boost it but really you dont need the fogs on i never use them that saves a good few amps the drls wont use that much or the leds the biggest is the front and rear screen

#13 Lenny

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 05:29 PM

Lenny. I would get som Bat Aid tablets from Halfords and drop those into the cells and top up with distilled water if necessary. If the battery has been running at only part charged for a period of time the cells would have started to sulphate which would reduce its efficiency. Once the plates are clan of sulphate the battery should take a full charge again.

a free battery check is all you need they will tell you if its okay running the heaters will be fine but the front and rear demisters suck the juice and on a 12 mile journey the battery doesnt get a chance to recharge the juice used what i do is get in the car lights off if the front window heater has to be used switch it on with the car idling and aiurcon to window within 30 secs the window should be clear switch the front heated screen off now you can switch on the rear and get going i only use the rear for a few minutes usually the aircon set to feet and windscreen on 3 will clear it all up and driver window open a crack that way it clears quickly whenever possible i use as little electrics as i can just to give the battery a breather as i do short trips 10 miles each way as well mate

also remember the ecu stores the outside temp as it was when you switch off the car if its dropped a fair bit it can take a bit longer to compensate for the variance say you parked up at 13degrees and you come out its 3 degrees thats a large drop in temp and requires a bit more preheating on a diesel

have a free check done but i think its just the short trips and all the electrics drawing the juice and the battery not getting a chance to recover it try a good drive every now and again just to boost it but really you dont need the fogs on i never use them that saves a good few amps the drls wont use that much or the leds the biggest is the front and rear screen


Thanks very much guys.
I'll take a 50 mile trip to Halfords tomorrow for a battery check, and I'll follow your advise arthur mate
Thank you all for taking the time to respond to this thread.

#14 Lenny

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 06:14 PM

Bosh battery from halfords is 140euro and that includes a 5 year warrenty so seems to be a good option
If the current (parden the pun) battery fails the health check tomorrow. Plus the 5 year warrenty would be the only one on the car since I've void all others lol

#15 Brigante

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 06:48 PM

was gonna recommend the bosch silver range that i have mate as like you said they got the 5year warranty

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