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53 Plate 2.0 Tdci No Power!!!! Please Help Guys


Reecy
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hi guys hope you can help me with this one as im going bald with the problems !!

Started off with an intermittent fault with the turbo not working would work if u turned ignition off and on again but would just stop working while i was driving especially when i came to a set of lights, thought it would of been a split in one of the boost pipes but checked them all, cleaned the egr valve Problem still happening,

Bought Ford F-Super comes up with fault P0235 so replaced the map sensor on the lower egr pipe with genuine ford one still no change

Had the turbo checked out no play in it and air is flowing through all pipes are boosting theres no blockages in any pipes or the intercooler atall

Im really at my witts end with this car and now the clocks have started going bonkers and resetting themselves every now and then and sometimes wont come on atall with just the oil light and washer bottle working its doing my nut in its like they have all happened at once !!!

Any help would be muchly appreciated, ps the car does drive and dont think its in limp home mode can get 70 on the motorway but it takes an age to get there and if theres an uphill then its drop a gear at a time til u reach the top !!!

Any suggestions muchly appreciated

cheers guys

Reecy

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  • 2 weeks later...

mate ive cleaned everything that i could clean !!!!

another mechanics said its the turbo but there would be no boost atall wouldnt there and the pipes wouldnt fill up when revving up !!!

im snookered !!

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all the clocks are now back on and working fine but theres still no power there atall im thinking its defo the turbo !!! :-(

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Check the EGR valve - fit a blanking plate (solid, stainless steel) it only costs about £5 online

the EGR may be at the front-left or the rear-right

the turbo has different components - the turbo itself (cartrige inc turbine/ compressor bearing) may bo ok but there is a fault in the actuator or variable vanes (if you have the variable vane type)

you may have a fixed vane turbo with pneumatic actuator and wastegate or a variable vane turbo with pneumatic actuator (i think the ones with the electronic actuators came later)

on the variable vane ones the vanes can coke up and sieze causing lack of boost (the turbine and compressor can still spin)

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cheers for that mate mines the pnuematic actuator variable vane type so looks like its gonna be a new turbo :-(

gonna have to get it fixed tho as its shockingly slow until it warms up and its not much better when its warm ..

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is there a solenoid operated vacuum valve in the vacuum line to the actuator on the turbo,if there is has it been checked to see if its working.

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yes mate its at the front of the inlet manifold theres two of them with 3 pipes coming off em, also the actuators moving the arm when i start it up also you can hear the turbo kicking when revving and the boost pipe extracts there are no blockages anywhere had all pipes off one by one and checked em out also the intercooler..... foca said it could be the variable vanes in the turbo as everything elso seems to be working but iam still getting fault code p0235 on FSuper

im sure its the turbo but could it be a sensor somewhere ie cam/crank as the fault started intermittent at first ???

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  • 1 month later...

right guys just had a new turbo fitted and theres no change whatsoever !!!! plenty boost in the system but no power !!! :wacko:

im getting really peed off with this !Removed! car....

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right guys just had a new turbo fitted and theres no change whatsoever !!!! plenty boost in the system but no power !!! :wacko:

im getting really peed off with this !Removed! car....

Sorry to hear you are getting fed up with the car -

Did you fit a blanking plate to the EGR valve? the egr valve is connected to the inlet on one side and the exhaust on the other so can affect boost

the EGR valve can be a common source of problems on these engines and a blanking plate only costs £5 and will fix a faulty EGR valve - always best to fit one (solid, stainless steel) before spending money on other things IMO and do the "service" items

Although the turbo shaft oil seal can split/ leak the shaft can sieze snap, the GT series turbos are pretty tough and the variable vanes are more likely to sieze due to carbon buildup - the vanes are built into the exhaust manifold - not the cartrige

What components were replaced?

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had the egr valve blanked off already mate didnt make a blind bit of difference and its the catridge thats been replaced not the manifold also there was quite a bit of carbon on the old one thats been taken out....

Anymore suggestions ? i didnt think it was the turbo myself as everything was pressurising properly eg the boost pipes from egr to intercooler but i was assured it was the turbo its like the engines being starved to me i reckon its a !Removed! sensor but ive had that replaced too gonna have to send it in to fords for them to tell me they dont know whats up with it :-(

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had the egr valve blanked off already mate didnt make a blind bit of difference and its the catridge thats been replaced not the manifold also there was quite a bit of carbon on the old one thats been taken out....

Anymore suggestions ? i didnt think it was the turbo myself as everything was pressurising properly eg the boost pipes from egr to intercooler but i was assured it was the turbo its like the engines being starved to me i reckon its a !Removed! sensor but ive had that replaced too gonna have to send it in to fords for them to tell me they dont know whats up with it :-(

The variable vane mech (the part that controls the boost via the actuator rod and actuator/ boost controller, pnuematic or electronic) is built in to the exhaust manifold and is the most likely thing to fail after the EGR valve/ system because it gets coked up and siezes or does not operate over its full range - the symptoms you describe are typical of this - if the turbo shaft snaps or the spool (cartridge) siezes you would not have any boost at all and the engine would hardly pull 3rd or higher or the car over 40mph - the turbo would have to be seriuosly abused or neglected for the shaft to sieze or snap (eg starved of oil/ no oil changes for 1000s of miles/ oil contaminated/ turbo over-revved/ consistently shutting the engine (oil supply) off when the turbo is still spinning/ hot)

Because you have a pnumatic actuator, it did not throw up any fault codes other than the low boost pressure read by the MAF sensor - that did not mean the sensor is faulty - it may be suppliing the correct information (low boost due to the faulty boost control system/s)

the system does not have a wastegate and the boost is controlled by the variable vanes -as explained these vanes are part of the exhaust manifold assembly - these vanes direct the exhaust gasses onto the exhaust turbine (the exhaust side of the turbo) by controlling these vanes, the turbo can be made more responsive at low revs and work well over a large range and the vanes control the boost pressure - if the vanes sieze in one position (or the actuator fails) it could produce the symptoms you describe

Dummed down version: - its your exhaust manifold or actuator that needs repairing/ replacing - its the bits in there that control the boost pressure that go wrong - not the cartridge - and the MAF sensor was just doing its job properly

Of course these things are just my opinion

i already mentioned the variable vanes/ actuator and how they can coke up/ fail in post #5 about a month ago

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  • 2 weeks later...

thanks a lot mate only just got the last post im gonna get it all changed asap :-)

turbo / manifold the lot

cheers

craig

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  • 7 months later...

Hi guys.

I have a similar problem with my 2003 mondeo.

If the problem would be the variable vane mech would it not smoke like mad??

Would like to give it a go to clean the mechanism i did see that some one posted a link to a video but i cannot find it any more.

Marcel

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hi guys hope you can help me with this one as im going bald with the problems !!

Started off with an intermittent fault with the turbo not working would work if u turned ignition off and on again but would just stop working while i was driving especially when i came to a set of lights, thought it would of been a split in one of the boost pipes but checked them all, cleaned the egr valve Problem still happening,

Bought Ford F-Super comes up with fault P0235 so replaced the map sensor on the lower egr pipe with genuine ford one still no change

Had the turbo checked out no play in it and air is flowing through all pipes are boosting theres no blockages in any pipes or the intercooler atall

Im really at my witts end with this car and now the clocks have started going bonkers and resetting themselves every now and then and sometimes wont come on atall with just the oil light and washer bottle working its doing my nut in its like they have all happened at once !!!

Any help would be muchly appreciated, ps the car does drive and dont think its in limp home mode can get 70 on the motorway but it takes an age to get there and if theres an uphill then its drop a gear at a time til u reach the top !!!

Any suggestions muchly appreciated

cheers guys

Reecy

Had a similar problem with my mk3 mondeo. Clocks all swinging all over the place and engine stall on A13. Turned out it was the cam shaft censor .Replaced this for £24 and all is ok except smoking on acceleration.

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