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Ford Puma- Rust On Rear Arch Paint Work- Diy Help.?
Started by Jbizzle, Oct 21 2012 08:57 AM
6 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 21 October 2012 - 08:57 AM
Have just bought my first ford puma the only thing is it has a little rust bubbling through on rear arches.
Am looking at doing it DIY as pritty good but wonderd if anyone has ever tackled this probblem them selves an if so have you any tips..? jb
oh an if any one knows y i cant get warm air as im freezing .
thanks jb
Am looking at doing it DIY as pritty good but wonderd if anyone has ever tackled this probblem them selves an if so have you any tips..? jb
oh an if any one knows y i cant get warm air as im freezing .
thanks jb
#2
Posted 21 October 2012 - 09:18 AM
You have two options here either you can flat the rust back and filler over it or you can cut the rusted sections out. I'd go with the second one and you can use Peugeot 206 front wings as repair sections for the bits you cut out. As for the air I'd say your heater control valve is broken. Buy a genuine Ford one for just over 30 quid
#3
Posted 21 October 2012 - 10:03 AM
The arches rust from the inside. The silly fabric wheel arch liner holds the moisture which is the main cause of the rusting. Make sure you give the inside of the arches a good thick coating of waxoil after youve cleaned them up.
As oilburner say's, most likely cause of your heating issue is the HCV. However I would check the electrical connection to the HCV to see what voltage you are getting there. If I remember rightly they normally get stuck in the open position which allows heat through. The voltage should be next to nothing when the control knob is set to hot, and 12v when set to cold (may be the other way round as its been a long time since I messed with one). If the voltage is not changing, then the heater control panel which is attached to the rear of the control knob may need changing.
As oilburner say's, most likely cause of your heating issue is the HCV. However I would check the electrical connection to the HCV to see what voltage you are getting there. If I remember rightly they normally get stuck in the open position which allows heat through. The voltage should be next to nothing when the control knob is set to hot, and 12v when set to cold (may be the other way round as its been a long time since I messed with one). If the voltage is not changing, then the heater control panel which is attached to the rear of the control knob may need changing.
#4
Posted 21 October 2012 - 10:49 AM
so how would i access theheater control panel then..? pull of the knob selector on dash..? an it shud be behind that.? cheers
#5
Posted 21 October 2012 - 10:51 AM
well its not crazy rust but want to stop it b4 it goes mad.! can u advise a filler.? cheers for help
#6
Posted 21 October 2012 - 11:17 AM
Sand it back to remove any loose rust them use some rust killer on it.
When it goes black you can sand it again and then add filler, smooth off and then prime and repaint.
When it goes black you can sand it again and then add filler, smooth off and then prime and repaint.
#7
Posted 21 October 2012 - 02:18 PM
Sorry I cant rember for sure as it was a long time ago. I think I took the stereo out first and pulled the whole dash out with the control knobs still attached and then unscrewed them from the back. And yes the knob should pull off (excuse me vicar).so how would i access theheater control panel then..? pull of the knob selector on dash..? an it shud be behind that.? cheers
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