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173 posts in this topic

No problem

Regarding the back box it won't fit your focus because it is designed to replace the rear silencer back box of the car.

And the design of the focus exhaust system has the back box fitted in front of the rear axle with a pipe leading over the rear axle to the underside of the rear bumper.

Diesel engines don't get loud and raspy. They get low and grumble like an impreza

A 2.5" internal bore pipe is recommended for performance.

And a single exit system would be around 300-450 from souhans depending on what grade of steel you choose but contact Darren at souhans to confirm pricing.

You would require a 2.5" pipe with flange to bolt on to the flexi pipe that leads from the dpf

A high flow back box

Then another 3feet of 2.5" pipe welded to the back box

Followed by a tip of your choice.

It will take around a month for the DPF to clear allowing the higher pressure to flow and sound.

Here is what mine now sounds like:

No sound difference when driving at any consistant speeds.

Just growels when you accelerate to overtake or pick up speed.

But no petrol exhaust parts are compatable with diesel.

The silincers are a completly different design inside to achieve the results.

Regarding the 20" alloys mate

I won't be fitting them neither for the same reason with the roads. Best leave them on jeeps but would look bad !Removed! lol

Maybe fit 19" at the most next summer.

Exellent info on the exhaust - to get the best benifit from the 2.5" system, ideally the entire syetem should be (at least) that diameter, right from the manifold to the tip,and if, say the downpipe is smaller(eg 2-1/4") or any other part of the exhaust system, its liable to "hold it back"

The cat and or DPF is liable to be restrictive, some tuners/ fitters offer replacements for that as well (stainless steel decat/ DPF removal) with an electronic DPF delete in software and a "custom" remap, as a package deal - this is likely to give better improvements in power

The car will not fail a 2012 UK MOT with a decat/ DPF delete - only particulates are measured on a diesel (for now, anyway)

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Exellent info on the exhaust - to get the best benifit from the 2.5" system, ideally the entire syetem should be (at least) that diameter, right from the manifold to the tip,and if, say the downpipe is smaller(eg 2-1/4") or any other part of the exhaust system, its liable to "hold it back"

The cat and or DPF is liable to be restrictive, some tuners/ fitters offer replacements for that as well (stainless steel decat/ DPF removal) with an electronic DPF delete in software and a "custom" remap, as a package deal - this is likely to give better improvements in power

The car will not fail a 2012 UK MOT with a decat/ DPF delete - only particulates are measured on a diesel (for now, anyway)

That's good to know now as I was totally clueless about exhaust systems.

Quick question and it might not be a straight forward one: Is getting a performance exhaust worth the extra money? Or shall I just get the car remap and be happy with that. What I am trying to decide on is, how much of a difference, on a day to day driving basis be between the two options. I think this is going to be tough to justify lol

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i agree, a bluefin/ remap or digital tuning box would probably give yo an extra 20 - 30HP (bluefin claim 21Hp and 37Nm increase)

Even a complete 2-1/2" exhaust system with decat and DPF delete is unlikely to see as much gain as that, with + 10HP being more realistic (depends on the car etc)

But the freer-flowing exhaust helps reduce frottle lag, improve pick-up and throttle response (on a tupbo car - the reduction in back-pressure can help the turbine spool/ spin up quicker) and can improve the MPG a little

If you were to replace a perfectly good exhaust with a custom ss exhaust, yes, it would be tough to justify, but if you wait till your exhaust needs replaced anyway, upgrading it to a stainless system makes more sense (same goes for brakes/ clutches etc- upgrading them when the old ones wear out) - a stainless system shoulkd last for years and should increase the value/ desirability of the car as well

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i agree,

If you were to replace a perfectly good exhaust with a custom ss exhaust, yes, it would be tough to justify, but if you wait till your exhaust needs replaced anyway, upgrading it to a stainless system makes more sense

Now you sound like my farther when he saw my exhaust upgrade,

"Nice exhaust, what was wrong with the original system?"

I was thinking "nothing thats probablly why souhans kept it lmao"

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i agree, a bluefin/ remap or digital tuning box would probably give yo an extra 20 - 30HP (bluefin claim 21Hp and 37Nm increase)

Even a complete 2-1/2" exhaust system with decat and DPF delete is unlikely to see as much gain as that, with + 10HP being more realistic (depends on the car etc)

But the freer-flowing exhaust helps reduce frottle lag, improve pick-up and throttle response (on a tupbo car - the reduction in back-pressure can help the turbine spool/ spin up quicker) and can improve the MPG a little

If you were to replace a perfectly good exhaust with a custom ss exhaust, yes, it would be tough to justify, but if you wait till your exhaust needs replaced anyway, upgrading it to a stainless system makes more sense (same goes for brakes/ clutches etc- upgrading them when the old ones wear out) - a stainless system shoulkd last for years and should increase the value/ desirability of the car as well

That makes perfect sense and what I was doing on my previous car. Replace worn out parts with better upgrades as required. That is totally justifiable I think.

Intrigued about Bluefin. Anyone has any experience about it and how to do it? I was under the impression that it could be used again in time a different car and you could just buy another map specific for another car. Any thoughts and how cost effective is it?

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Now you sound like my farther when he saw my exhaust upgrade,

"Nice exhaust, what was wrong with the original system?"

I was thinking "nothing thats probablly why souhans kept it lmao"

Lol, your dad's thinking makes perfect sense and I think I would agree with him. Reckon I will wait and see how much it will cost in total and then decide. Hard to justify such an expense these days on a perfectly good car.

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Intrigued about Bluefin. Anyone has any experience about it and how to do it? I was under the impression that it could be used again in time a different car and you could just buy another map specific for another car. Any thoughts and how cost effective is it?

You buy the Bluefin with the licence to use on one car.

If you want to use it on another car you just pay for another licence when you apply for another remap download.

Take it from me that on a TDCI it's well worth it.

I gained 33bhp and bags more torque.

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You buy the Bluefin with the licence to use on one car.

If you want to use it on another car you just pay for another licence when you apply for another remap download.

Take it from me that on a TDCI it's well worth it.

I gained 33bhp and bags more torque.

Thanks for the info. Just got a quote from Souhan's, here in Ireland, for a custom remap (Performance) and a better free flowing back box with a new tip for 445 euro. This is a special offer they are doing at the moment. I mentioned the Ford Owners Club and how Lenny had his car done recently and recommended their place and Darren.

Reckon I will get it done as it's too good of a deal to miss. Tomorrow getting the sound system fitted in the morning and that should be a hoot after!

Fun times ahead :)

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Thanks for the info. Just got a quote from Souhan's, here in Ireland, for a custom remap (Performance) and a better free flowing back box with a new tip for 445 euro. This is a special offer they are doing at the moment. I mentioned the Ford Owners Club and how Lenny had his car done recently and recommended their place and Darren.

Reckon I will get it done as it's too good of a deal to miss. Tomorrow getting the sound system fitted in the morning and that should be a hoot after!

Fun times ahead :)

Well done mate,

Cost me 480 for remap, oil change and fitting of my own exhaust lol good to see you got the discount, grab with both hands son.

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Well done mate,

Cost me 480 for remap, oil change and fitting of my own exhaust lol good to see you got the discount, grab with both hands son.

Wow...Didn't realise by how much it was a discount, given the fact that you already had your own exhaust. Did you get the stainless steel pipes instead of the original ones in the car? So far as I understand, Darren was saying they would fit a better more free flowing backbox and a nice tip at the end.

Also, fitted the new Green Cotton air filter last thursday. So far, my combined mpg went from 53 to about 58 mpg. These are rough figures and I think the engine ecu will get used to it before I see the full potential. Also, like yours Lenny, my paper air filter was bent inside the box and was basically useless. The car revs much more freely now and it's very similar to my experience with the old car and the K&N air filter.

One thing I know for sure is, I am totally addicted to the torque of the diesel engine. It's a lot of fun!

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Wow...Didn't realise by how much it was a discount, given the fact that you already had your own exhaust. Did you get the stainless steel pipes instead of the original ones in the car? So far as I understand, Darren was saying they would fit a better more free flowing backbox and a nice tip at the end.

Also, fitted the new Green Cotton air filter last thursday. So far, my combined mpg went from 53 to about 58 mpg. These are rough figures and I think the engine ecu will get used to it before I see the full potential. Also, like yours Lenny, my paper air filter was bent inside the box and was basically useless. The car revs much more freely now and it's very similar to my experience with the old car and the K&N air filter.

One thing I know for sure is, I am totally addicted to the torque of the diesel engine. It's a lot of fun!

You will really love the torque after the remap mate lol purge behind cars in 5th in fast lane rocking up and down

Mine is stainless from the flexi pipe to tip. The same as what you were quoted except mine has stainless pipe from back box to flexi pipe.

Im sure it wouldnt cost much more to get that section stainless too.

I.e from back box to flexi in 2.5" stainless same as back box and tip. All worth every penny mate, strange fords stardard filters are poo but good to have the better one fitted prior to remap.

Here are some pics of the under side.

Image2316.jpg

Image2321.jpg

Image2322.jpg

Image2323.jpg

Image2319.jpg

Image2317.jpg

Image2316.jpg

Image2312.jpg

Image2311.jpg

Image2315.jpg

And this is the stock setup

Image2309.jpg

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Back on topic for a min:

I want to replace the front door speakers. Anyone can point me to the correct sizes and some recommended speaker models please?

As long that the speakers are not too expensive and deliver good sound quality, that will fit the bill.

Thanks

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You will really love the torque after the remap mate lol purge behind cars in 5th in fast lane rocking up and down

Mine is stainless from the flexi pipe to tip. The same as what you were quoted except mine has stainless pipe from back box to flexi pipe.

Im sure it wouldnt cost much more to get that section stainless too.

I.e from back box to flexi in 2.5" stainless same as back box and tip. All worth every penny mate, strange fords stardard filters are poo but good to have the better one fitted prior to remap.

Here are some pics of the under side.

Image2316.jpg

Image2321.jpg

Image2322.jpg

Image2323.jpg

Image2319.jpg

Image2317.jpg

Image2316.jpg

Image2312.jpg

Image2311.jpg

Image2315.jpg

And this is the stock setup

Image2309.jpg

That looks ace Lenny. Very clean and professional job. That's it, gonna get the car booked in Souhan once I come back from holidays in 2 weeks. Will inquire how much more it would cost for the whole thing to be stainless steel. And, knowing me, I will probably ask them to give me back my old exhaust to keep.

If anyone needs a second hand exhaust for a Focus mk2.5 1.6 TDCI, get in touch with me in a couple of weeks and we can arrange something.

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Back on topic for a min:

I want to replace the front door speakers. Anyone can point me to the correct sizes and some recommended speaker models please?

As long that the speakers are not too expensive and deliver good sound quality, that will fit the bill.

Thanks

Try Caraudiodirect.com

They are very compeditive on price and supply brand name direct replacment speakers for most make and models.

This way you can be certain that its a straight swap from stock speaker and the sound quality from the upgrade will actually be better than your existing one because it would be designed to specificly replace it.

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Try Caraudiodirect.com

They are very compeditive on price and supply brand name direct replacment speakers for most make and models.

This way you can be certain that its a straight swap from stock speaker and the sound quality from the upgrade will actually be better than your existing one because it would be designed to specificly replace it.

Cheers Lenny. I was just wondering if there was a way to fit my old speakers to my Focus. They are 13cm Pioneer like these:

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/pioneer-ts-q131c-renault.html

Any ideas if this would be possible just to save me buying another set of speakers and selling the ones I have already.

Thanks

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Cheers Lenny. I was just wondering if there was a way to fit my old speakers to my Focus. They are 13cm Pioneer like these:

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/pioneer-ts-q131c-renault.html

Any ideas if this would be possible just to save me buying another set of speakers and selling the ones I have already.

Thanks

No 13cm speaker will be better than the 6.5 inch component system currently fitted.

The 13cm has built in tweeter which means all sound comes from one unit. Your stock system is better as each Speaker and tweeter work togeather to bring the different sounds controlled by a crossover box fitted to each unit.

13cm will fit with reduicer brackets but sound is better on component systems.

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The Focus will easily take a 13cm speaker with the relevant oval adaptors like these-

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3cbb865b75

The wiring adaptors you need to convert a Focus wiring connector to a standard bayonet connector are these-

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3a6655aa51

Or if you want to change it all up a couple of pairs of these-

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item25561a5621

Thanks for all the info. I think I will go with getting a set of new speakers in the end as I think this would sound better with my old sub and amp.

Cheers

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No 13cm speaker will be better than the 6.5 inch component system currently fitted.

The 13cm has built in tweeter which means all sound comes from one unit. Your stock system is better as each Speaker and tweeter work togeather to bring the different sounds controlled by a crossover box fitted to each unit.

13cm will fit with reduicer brackets but sound is better on component systems.

That does make sense. Will be putting new speakers with the amp and sub which are now wired around the car but not yet to the headunit due to not having the right cable.

These are my two options so far for speakers:

Pioneer

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PIONEER-TS-H687-CUSTOM-FIT-SPEAKERS-FORD-MONDEO-1-PAIR-/380421343890?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item5892e10a92&_uhb=1

JBL

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JBL-gto8628-5x7-6x8-2-way-car-door-speakers-180watt-for-Ford-Mazda-Jaguar-/110920810940?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item19d36541bc&_uhb=1

Would love to hear if anyone has any experience or thoughts about them as I know very little of speakers. Also, whether to wire them to my amplifier or just straight to the headunit as I hear conflicting ideas about that.

Thanks

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The Jbl look good with their adjustable tweeter volume and angle, Jbl is a high end brand respected in PA and pro-audio circles, it is a 2 way system (a 3-way is un-nessesary in this size/ power of system)

it has the efficiency of the speaker (92db) which helps(if you apply 1W, the speaker will produce 92db, at 1meter, on-axis ), and the pioneer is an outgoing model, lastly the Jbl is a bit less expensive than the Pioneer

Watch out for the 2ohms impeadance and that the amp can drive that (whether built into the head unil or seperate)

you would normally use the head unit to drive the door speakers(there is usually 4 "seperate" amps/ outputs in a head unit) and a seperate amp to drive the sub.(if your amp was designed for a sub it will only have one output (for the sub) anyway ) really loud/ powerful serious installations might use multiple seperate amps

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The Jbl look good with their adjustable tweeter volume and angle, Jbl is a high end brand respected in PA and pro-audio circles, it is a 2 way system (a 3-way is un-nessesary in this size/ power of system)

it has the efficiency of the speaker (92db) which helps(if you apply 1W, the speaker will produce 92db, at 1meter, on-axis ), and the pioneer is an outgoing model, lastly the Jbl is a bit less expensive than the Pioneer

Watch out for the 2ohms impeadance and that the amp can drive that (whether built into the head unil or seperate)

you would normally use the head unit to drive the door speakers(there is usually 4 "seperate" amps/ outputs in a head unit) and a seperate amp to drive the sub.(if your amp was designed for a sub it will only have one output (for the sub) anyway ) really loud/ powerful serious installations might use multiple seperate amps

Thanks a million for the info. That made my options a bit clearer now.

The amp and sub combo I have is a Blaupunkt GT470 amp and a 12'' Edge amplifier that was in my old car. Reckon the amp would be able to drive the speakers if the headunit cannot. Might be a bit trickier to do, but it might make the sound a bit better. Any thoughts?

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Wow thats a serious amp- i looked up the specs -

Blaupunkt GTA470 SF features

  • Max total power: 840 (1 channel mode)
    • RMS power 4 ohms: 4 x 70 watts / 2 x 200 watts
      • RMS power 2 ohms: 4 x 100 watts
        • Max. power 4 ohms: 4 x 140 watts / 2 x 420 watts
          • Number of channels: 4/3/2
            • Speaker outputs: 4
              • Inputs: Cinch
                • Frequency range: 10 – 30,000 Hz
                  • Stability: 2 ohms
                    • Signal/noise ratio: > 92 dB/A
                      • Gain adjust: 0.1 – 8 volts
                        • Low pass: 50 – 250 Hz
                          • High pass: 80 Hz

                          [*]what happened there ?

the Blaupunkt amp is too powerful for the Jbl or Pioneer speakers you have listed, you will need speakers that handle more power (100W rms) - the amp can work in 2,3 or 4 channel mode, so it gives a lot of flexibility, withe suitable door speakers the Blaupunkt amp will be louder and probably better sounding than the amps that are built into the head unit (especially at high volumes)

if you really want to "go to town" you could use the 4 channells(4 channel mode) of the Blaupunkt to drive the front/ rear door speakers (not the ones in your car now or the ones in your link, you would blow them to bits!) and get ANOTHER amp to drive your sub - that would be some system! (you may need a special audio battery and/ or a power cap to power it all)

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Wow thats a serious amp- i looked up the specs -

Blaupunkt GTA470 SF features

  • Max total power: 840 (1 channel mode)
    • RMS power 4 ohms: 4 x 70 watts / 2 x 200 watts
      • RMS power 2 ohms: 4 x 100 watts
        • Max. power 4 ohms: 4 x 140 watts / 2 x 420 watts
          • Number of channels: 4/3/2
            • Speaker outputs: 4
              • Inputs: Cinch
                • Frequency range: 10 – 30,000 Hz
                  • Stability: 2 ohms
                    • Signal/noise ratio: > 92 dB/A
                      • Gain adjust: 0.1 – 8 volts
                        • Low pass: 50 – 250 Hz
                          • High pass: 80 Hz

                          [*]what happened there ?

the Blaupunkt amp is too powerful for the Jbl or Pioneer speakers you have listed, you will need speakers that handle more power (100W rms) - the amp can work in 2,3 or 4 channel mode, so it gives a lot of flexibility, withe suitable door speakers the Blaupunkt amp will be louder and probably better sounding than the amps that are built into the head unit (especially at high volumes)

if you really want to "go to town" you could use the 4 channells(4 channel mode) of the Blaupunkt to drive the front/ rear door speakers (not the ones in your car now or the ones in your link, you would blow them to bits!) and get ANOTHER amp to drive your sub - that would be some system! (you may need a special audio battery and/ or a power cap to power it all)

I think the amp I have is the older model, bought second hand. Still a great sounding amp.

This is it:

http://130.com.ua/en/product/car-amplifier-blaupunkt-gta-470/

Any ideas if this would work with the JBL speakers I was thinking of getting? As it would suck to have to get more expensive speakers.

As for getting the second amp idea for the sub and power the 4 speakers with the amp, it would be awesome! Sadly due to lack of funds and given the fact that I need the bootspace for the lil ones stuff(smallest person has the most amount of stuff. Go figure), I think I will start with the front speaker upgrades and wire the amp to the speaker to get a cleaner more distinct sound and see how it goes in the future as rarely anyone sits in the back of the car. Even though, having a proper surround sound experience in the car would be worth the effort and money I reckon.

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Your Biaupunkt produces 70W RMS per channel (there are 4 channels = 4 seperate "amps" or 2 stereo "amps" in one box) the Pioneer speakers (in your link) handle 50W RMS max and the JBLs 60W, you could use them but you would have to be very, very carful, personally i would use 140W (RMS "true" power) speaker/s with 70w amp/s i have found these 87W (RMS) Kenwood speakers (of similar spec/ quality to the JBLs but better power handling) for a similar price -

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item25722b2d53

You will need 2 pairs - 2 for the front doors and 2 for the rear (doors or panels) with the Blaupunkt amp it will be louder and sound better (IMO) (they are a better spec than stock and Kenwood has a good reputation) than the stock system but still loads of space in the car (you will need to find somewhere to mount the amp but it is slim and will not take up a lit of space) some of these ICE installs can be very heavy (something many people don't take into account) but this setup would be only a few kgs more than stock

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Your Biaupunkt produces 70W RMS per channel (there are 4 channels = 4 seperate "amps" or 2 stereo "amps" in one box) the Pioneer speakers (in your link) handle 50W RMS max and the JBLs 60W, you could use them but you would have to be very, very carful, personally i would use 140W (RMS "true" power) speaker/s with 70w amp/s i have found these 87W (RMS) Kenwood speakers (of similar spec/ quality to the JBLs but better power handling) for a similar price -

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item25722b2d53

You will need 2 pairs - 2 for the front doors and 2 for the rear (doors or panels) with the Blaupunkt amp it will be louder and sound better (IMO) (they are a better spec than stock and Kenwood has a good reputation) than the stock system but still loads of space in the car (you will need to find somewhere to mount the amp but it is slim and will not take up a lit of space) some of these ICE installs can be very heavy (something many people don't take into account) but this setup would be only a few kgs more than stock

Foca thanks a million for the link and the information about the speaker specs. You saved me a lot of digging around on a subject that I know very little of. I think the Kenwood ones will fit the bill nicely as they tick all the right boxes. Might just get a pair for the front only at this point in time and wait till I have a bit more funds to get the rear ones. My sound guy already wired up the amp and the subwoofer to the car. The amp is secured to the left rear side of the boot wall and it looks very clean. Not taking a lot of space and the subwoofer can be disconnected when I need the bootspace to haul stuff.

And you are dead right about the weight issue as I know how heavy my subwoofer is and how it affects my fuel consumption. I will still gladly sacrifice a bit of fuel for a decent sounding system. Any ideas of other places that I could find the Kenwood speakers shipped to Republic of Ireland for not a lot of money? The shipping costs are just ridiculous on Ebay for some of the sellers.

Thanks

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