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garbage456

2001 Mondeo Fine For 1St 5 Minutes Then Lots Of Smoke And No Power ?

15 posts in this topic

as i say fine for the 1st 5 minutes of driving then when i put foot down it just coughs and i get smoke out of the exhaust, the higher gear i put it the better as i guess i am not putting down as much on accelerator.

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Is it a TDCI or TDDI?

One possibility is the EGR valve - have you fitted a (stainless, solid) blanking plate yet?

Another is a burst/ split turbo hose - what color is the smoke?

the other alternatives are more expensive to fix (turbo, injectors etc) best to do the "service" items 1st, then the cheap repairs (blanking plate is about £5)

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Is it a TDCI or TDDI?

One possibility is the EGR valve - have you fitted a (stainless, solid) blanking plate yet?

Another is a burst/ split turbo hose - what color is the smoke?

the other alternatives are more expensive to fix (turbo, injectors etc) best to do the "service" items 1st, then the cheap repairs (blanking plate is about £5)

think its tddi (will change if wrong)

i havent fitted a blanking plate, what is the plate for, and why did ford forget it?

smoke is white

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just to clarify it only happens after about 5 minutes of driving, and it gets worse the longer the journey goes along

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I have put in some diesel system cleaner didn't work. Put in d tox and seems to of cleared it up.

Thank goodness

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Can you please explain what d-tox is, I might want to try some. Cheers

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been fine for 2 days then started again

grrrr

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You can get a blanking plate online for about £5 (less than the cost of "snake oil"!)

EGR stands for "Exhaust Gas Recirculation" the theory is a small amount of the waste exhaust gasses are redirected into the inlet to improove emissions .

in practice the EGR system can cause flat spots, hesitation, turbo lag, and a (usually small) loss in performance and economy

over time the EGR valve housing and inlet manifold gets contaminated with carbon deposits which can "choke" the engine and cause other problems

and all the above is if the EGR valve/ system is running correctly - if it is sticking open even a little the engine can run very badly, with exessive smoke and poor running (the engine runs best on diesel and clean, cool air, not exhaust fumes/ carbon) and can display the symptoms you have described

a solid plate is best (no holes to let the gasses through - waste of time/ defeats the purpose) Stainless Steel aluninium can melt (exhaust gasses, remember) mild steel rusts - at least 2+mm thick

An EGR blanking plate cannot cause UK MOT failures on a diesel (only particulates are measured- may actually help in this way)

if the EGR valve is sticking open the blanking plate will "fix" it, without spending the £50-£120 for a new one (+ the car will run better with the EGR blanked anyway)

as you have a EURO3 compliant mk3 you can blank your EGR with no problems (some of the later mk3s are EURO4 compliant)

your EGR valve is ether on the front-left of your engine or on the back-right

Once you have fitted the plate it would be worth getting a code reader and see if you have any fault codes

PS - i have read a lot of "nonsense" written about EGR valves on forums - i learned from practical experience

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been to garage said he cant do it, prefer a diesel specialist he said.

thinks its something to with the fuel pump or surrounding areas, also there is a pump in the back of the car to do with fuel as well.

not used car for a week. used today, fine for 1st 5 minutes, then every minute after that its getting worse, just got outside my house and its konked out after 10 minutes of driving, waited half an hour later it wont start.

any ideas?

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Yes the Mk3 Mondeo TDDI 115 (2000-2002) has a second pump at the back, near the tank, its not on all the time and only comes on at high demand (accelerating hard, or uphill or at high speed)

if this is the problem it has nothing to do with how long you are driving for (thats just a coincedence) but the load you place on the engine - if you drove around on the flat at low speed without using much throttle you could probably do it all day/ night

you can buy a new or refurbed pattern lift pump for around £100 online

i still recommend fitting an EGR blanking plate as a matter of course (in fact do this 1st)

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I am certain its something to do with fuel being pumped in

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Yes thats a possibility, the thing is, a blanking plate costs £5 and you can fit it yourself

Faulty EGR = fit blanking plate - £5 - labor £0 (diy) total £5

blocked fuel filter = fit new one - £10 - labour £0 (diy) total £10

clean out EGR valve/ inlet manifold £0 total £0

replace lift pump £100 labour £100 total = £200

replace injectors £500 (refurb) labour £100 total £600

replace vp44 pump (refurb/ exchange) £750 - labor £200 total £950

these are just estimates but the point is it makes sense to do the cheap or "service" things first before tackling the expensive things -

eg fit the blanking plate, change the fuel filter, clean out the inlet manifold BEFORE replacing the lift pump, and if that does not work look at the expensive things

did i mention getting a fault code reader? (about £20 online- an F-super works on the TDDI)

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took it to my local garage, run a code reaqder came back with fuel delivery problem, said it could be (note COULD BE ) a fuel pump issue, around £1000 fitted !!! WTF

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I give up with this. Can't be bothered spent 600 since I got the damn car.

Is there a for sale section on here want 1000 quid for it. Just that smoking problem. South London. Sutton

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