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Mk1 Instrument Cluster Problem


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#16 Andy3050

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Posted 27 November 2012 - 03:17 PM

Haha! Especially when I just saw on their website a 2009 59 reg 1.6 zetec with only 11000 miles on the clock for 7000

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#17 Stoney871

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Posted 27 November 2012 - 03:28 PM

Nasty Ford, putting temptation your way and all that.
They should be ashamed. ;)

#18 Andy3050

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 07:47 PM

Well I took it in, they did a diagnostic and it was the cluster.

Got a new one fitted and all is great (apart from mileage being reset to 0, but I will get used to it)

#19 benskinley

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 09:11 PM

Hi there

I've joined this site to talk about my car problem and it seems its exactly the same as yours! I have a 2003 1.6 petrol focus. It juddered a few months ago and I had the coil pack changed and everything was fine. Then intermittently I would be driving and the cluster goes wild and goes up an down (as if power goes for a few seconds) with the engine management light going on and off. This comes and goes an has been going on for a few months. Then recently the exclamation mark light and battery light sometimes come on along with the engine management light, absolutely no dials and just dashes where the mileage should be. Then after 15 to 20 mins everything comes back again. The car drives absolutely fine and there has been absolutely no difference in performance at all. Do you think it's the same problem? Also can you tell me exactly what you had to get done and estimate of cost? I don't want to get ripped off, I have heard people being charged 500 to get diagnostics and clusters changed! Your help would be amazing. Many thanks! Ben

#20 Andy3050

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 11:20 AM

If the car is juddering and battery light coming on it sounds like its more than the cluster. This one sounds alternator/battery problem.

With mine I phoned my local ford dealer and told him the problem, he ordered the part and asked me to come in so he could do a diagnostic on the cluster for 40 then fit the new one if it was faulty for 164 (inc diagnostic). He told me it is normally 80 for a full diagnostic.

If your local ford dealer had a service garage then give them a call. It's probably best to get the diagnostic done as that will bring up any faults that have occurred. But if it is the alternator then don't expect to pay anything less than 200 (not inc diagnostic)

#21 benskinley

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 03:21 PM

Hi there

My car is in the garage as we speak, and they agreed to do the work for 99 plus VAT not including diagnostic. This is a rate Ford agreed after a watchdog programme highlighted the common Focus cluster problem. I took the car in this morning and signed a form saying 99 plus VAT and I now get a call at 3pm saying they can't do that price and it will be 229 plus VAT. Am I within my rights to take this further? Also, can I ask which Ford garage did your repair and how much they charged, as this cost shouldn't be any different!!!

#22 Stoney871

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 05:06 PM

They can't renege on a contract.
Tell them you'll report them to trading standards.

#23 good old reliable

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Posted 17 January 2013 - 08:09 PM

just stumbled on this problem, i had same problem ford did a recall on the cluster as it was on watch dog they changed mine for £100 quid at the dealer, problem solved. only thing is the mileage will be set back to zero so keep the receipt for your records..

#24 RichardE

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 12:05 PM

Whilst the issue I have had on my Focus is not quite the same as the one on this original posting (ie all the dials off - apart from the fuel gauge - and various warning lights on) I think it has similar roots and I know others have encountered it. (Apologies for verbosity)

 

This first occured approx 4 years ago. Whilst driving on the motorway (typically I had to be above about 50mph) the speedo sometimes drops to zero, then returns to the correct speed a second or so later. This may then be followed by the rev counter dropping to zero and a second or so recovering, then the engine management light coming on and going off, the odometer display going to horizontal lines and so on. Sometimes this would be completely at random just happening every now and then. At other times it would happen for several minutes with the dials and warning light going on and off though usually not all together. I found a few forum threads and implemented the removal and WD40'ing of the instrument cluster but this had no effect. (A friend had had a similar problem on his Focus and had found that the cluster connector fix had worked for him). As the car drove perfectly well with no mis-fires or other safety issues I continued to drive it while monitoring whether the problem was getting any worse.

 

However, after a month or so it then progressed to another level. As well as the instrument cluster issue it would then have periods with all the vehicle lights flickering including the headlights, internal lights and all of the console illumination. Having found another forum thread, and taking a bit of a punt, I had the battery changed but also had all the earth bonding points cleaned and tightened. All of the issues went away (but it was unclear whether it was a battery fault or the earth bonding). However the important point was that it was nothing to do with the instrument cluster itself but was the primary electrical supply to the vehicle.

 

4 weeks ago the faults re-occured. This time all of the symptoms started at the same time. Instrument dials dropping to zero, warning lights coming on and off, internal/external lights flickering etc. In a series of tests it seemed that the issue became worse if the A/C was switched on and/or the headlights, heated windscreen, heated rear window or other heavy electrical loading. Again this pointed to an electrical supply/voltage problem. After inspection, I determined that the negative battery terminal was slightly loose - not really loose, you had to put some pressure on it, but it could just about be turned by hand. Also there was some corrosion on the earth bonding point from the neg terminal to the vehicle chassis - this point is located under the air filter box. I cleaned the bonding point and had a new terminal clamp fitted for the battery. Again, since these actions the issues have all gone away.

 

Both the negative terminal being loose and the bonding point being corroded could cause the voltage being seen by the vehicle systems to be low or fluctuate depending on the load. This in turn could cause the instrument cluster microprocessor to glitch or reset and other systems to misbehave. We can't say whether all such faults can be fixed by such simple remedies but it's certainly worth checking as a first stage before looking at more complex diagnostics. Good luck!

 

 

 

 




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