Just wondering has anyone tried to fit a cone filter on the fiesta metal? As when I tried fitting mine the map sensor is attached to the airbox and it throws up the engine management light when turned on. Anyone know how to get around this problem?
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Cone Filter On A Metal?
Started by Beth19, Jan 09 2013 09:29 PM
7 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 09 January 2013 - 09:29 PM
#2
Posted 09 January 2013 - 10:57 PM
On my Matiz I poked a hole through the pipe with a knife and taped it on lol, that worked. Something like that, just more tidy 
Or buy a filter with a heat shield and sensor plug.
Or buy a filter with a heat shield and sensor plug.
#3
Posted 11 January 2013 - 07:43 PM
Haha I don't think I could bring myself to put a hole in it lol
think I might go for the filter with heat shield
sounds a little more girl proof for me to do haha
#4
Posted 11 January 2013 - 11:23 PM
Trouble is they're quite pricey at around £200+ for that type, where you can get a Samco hose for like, £20 and just put a hole in that
#5
Posted 12 January 2013 - 12:25 AM
There is a few things you should know before you fit a cone filter -
The stock filter was carefully designed to work in all kinds of conditions, to increase bottom end power and keep the induction noise to a certain level, it draws air from a cool place, so less power is lost
If you fit a cone filter under the bonnet, this air is (likey to be) warmer/ hotter, its a bit technical, but the cooler the air going into the engines air intake/ the more power it produces - each induction stroke of the piston/s draws a certain amount of air into the cylinder/s, this is a fixed volume, if the air is cooler, it is denser, so contains more oxegen per square inch
Because efficiency is reduced, more throttle is required for the same effect/ so economy is also reduced
That is how intercoolers work on turbo cars, and production cars have cool air inlets (NA & turbo) since the 1970s
if you put a cone filter under the bonnet it will draw warm air (loosing power) a heatshield does not work (because warm air is still drawn / underbonnet temps can rise like an oven)
If you must modify your air intake - fit a fully encapsulated CAIS (cool air intake system) BMC make one (used on rally/ race cars) and pipercross make one (its called a Venom) - this is a bit like a K&N in a tube (to insulate it from underbonnet heat) - air is drawn from in front of the radiator/ a cool place/ a special intake/ vent
Even with the special CAIS / BMC CDA / pipercross venom, you may loose low down power, this is because the stock filter may be "tuned"/ matched to your engine - to increase bottom end grunt - aftermarket filters work better with large capacity NA or gigh power turbo engines
The induction raar from the cone filter can give the illusion of more power (placibo effect), and the (possible) drop off in bottom end power can give the illusion of more midrange or top end power
So unless you are an engineer, a tuner or a genius (or better still, all 3!) its unlikely you can improve on Fords testing/ multi-million pound R&D department
So you will lose overal power/ economy/ and probably bottom end grunt - but make more noise
If the "more noise" part is the important bit to you, use a CAIS or fit some cool air ducts - otherwise - i recommend you stick to the stock filter!
Another option is a K&N of Pipercross panel filter, not the drawbacks/ hassles of the cone filter/ more flow (allegedly!) a bit louder, easy to fit, and you wont have to inform your insurers because an air filter is a consumable!
nuff said
The stock filter was carefully designed to work in all kinds of conditions, to increase bottom end power and keep the induction noise to a certain level, it draws air from a cool place, so less power is lost
If you fit a cone filter under the bonnet, this air is (likey to be) warmer/ hotter, its a bit technical, but the cooler the air going into the engines air intake/ the more power it produces - each induction stroke of the piston/s draws a certain amount of air into the cylinder/s, this is a fixed volume, if the air is cooler, it is denser, so contains more oxegen per square inch
Because efficiency is reduced, more throttle is required for the same effect/ so economy is also reduced
That is how intercoolers work on turbo cars, and production cars have cool air inlets (NA & turbo) since the 1970s
if you put a cone filter under the bonnet it will draw warm air (loosing power) a heatshield does not work (because warm air is still drawn / underbonnet temps can rise like an oven)
If you must modify your air intake - fit a fully encapsulated CAIS (cool air intake system) BMC make one (used on rally/ race cars) and pipercross make one (its called a Venom) - this is a bit like a K&N in a tube (to insulate it from underbonnet heat) - air is drawn from in front of the radiator/ a cool place/ a special intake/ vent
Even with the special CAIS / BMC CDA / pipercross venom, you may loose low down power, this is because the stock filter may be "tuned"/ matched to your engine - to increase bottom end grunt - aftermarket filters work better with large capacity NA or gigh power turbo engines
The induction raar from the cone filter can give the illusion of more power (placibo effect), and the (possible) drop off in bottom end power can give the illusion of more midrange or top end power
So unless you are an engineer, a tuner or a genius (or better still, all 3!) its unlikely you can improve on Fords testing/ multi-million pound R&D department
So you will lose overal power/ economy/ and probably bottom end grunt - but make more noise
If the "more noise" part is the important bit to you, use a CAIS or fit some cool air ducts - otherwise - i recommend you stick to the stock filter!
Another option is a K&N of Pipercross panel filter, not the drawbacks/ hassles of the cone filter/ more flow (allegedly!) a bit louder, easy to fit, and you wont have to inform your insurers because an air filter is a consumable!
nuff said
#6
Posted 12 January 2013 - 09:35 AM
^ The more expensive cone filters with the custom heat shield are actually good, they take air from the original point and seal it like a box, only allowing air from down below and in front of the filter, rather than everywhere.
I lost 4bhp on something with around 70 with a cone filter, all I've done now is slap in a K&N panel, absolutely no difference, but I like the fact it just needs cleaning
I lost 4bhp on something with around 70 with a cone filter, all I've done now is slap in a K&N panel, absolutely no difference, but I like the fact it just needs cleaning
#8
Posted 12 January 2013 - 05:55 PM
Oh, nah I mean the box shields
nah they're junk
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