24 replies to this topic

[Carl0s]

So, i started my engine change today. Pulled the old engine out, (came out realy nicely from the bottom) and started to strip all the accessories from the old engine, and install them to the new engine.

When i got to the point where i needed to install the timing belt, things got wierd. I turned the the camshaft to the timing point, and secured it whit the locking pin, but when i started tu turn the crankshaft, it moved a bit, and then hitted wood. Tried to rotate it another direction, and same. you can turn the crankshaft timing mark between ~11 a clock and ~7 a clock whitout any problem, but when it hits 11 or 7, it just hits wood.


What could it be?! I took the oilpan out, cylinder number 2 & 3 move ~2cm from the bottom position upwards, and 1 & 4 are moving downwards so they cant hit the valves... There is not anything else then oilpump connected to the crankshaft atm, but i highly doubt that it would cause it.

[dezwez]

you cant turn the engine over with the locking pin still in
th engine

[Carl0s]

I cant insert the locking pin to the crankshaft since i cant turn the timing mark all they way up... Or what do you mean?

[dezwez]

have you lock the engine with the steel bar that goes on the end of the
camshaft if so you need to remove it so it turns all the way around the pin that goes in the side of the engine
will only go in when it line up (ie) Top dead center
yours might be diffrent from mine as mine is petrol 52 reg

[Carl0s]

Nope, i have no "official" locking tools, but haynes manual stated that you can lock the camshaft in place using 5mm drill, and the crankshaft using 8mm drill.

Just to make sure we are on same page, the engine im working on was bought as a "replacement unit" so there was no timing belt or anything installed on it, So the cam and the crank are not connected, and they should both be able to spin independently, the cam does but the crank wount...

[dezwez]

i had that on a engine once and it turned out to be one
of the end shell bearing on the contection rod had slip and was jaming it
just a though

[Carl0s]

Hope, i lefted some diesel in the cylinders for over night. The engine is 30k km driven (~20k miles) but i dont know how long it has been on storage. So, the best bet i got was that if there is some oxidation on the cylinder walls that gets stuck... :/


Just to be sure, there is no place anywhere where you could screw in some lockingbolt that would lock the cranks counterbalance or something like that ?

[dezwez]

if it had no belt on are you sure no one has turn it as the valve may have gone though the piston
or they may be getting stuck on open valves did it turn fully when you got it. you might have bought a bad one

[stef123]

Nope, i have no "official" locking tools, but haynes manual stated that you can lock the camshaft in place using 5mm drill, and the crankshaft using 8mm drill.

Just to make sure we are on same page, the engine im working on was bought as a "replacement unit" so there was no timing belt or anything installed on it, So the cam and the crank are not connected, and they should both be able to spin independently, the cam does but the crank wount...

are you sure the pistons are not making contact with the valves? with there being no belt, this sounds like what happening

[Carl0s]

the point where the crank freeze is, when the 1&4:th cylinder are moving downwards from the tdc, and 2&3 are moving up from the btc...

[stef123]

have you tried turning the cam shafts until both the inlet and exhaust are fully closed?

[dezwez]

have you tryed to turn the cams at the same time to see if it moves more

[dezwez]

snap //stef123

[Carl0s]

yeap, when the crank gets stuck, you can spin the camshafts whitout any effect to the crankshaft...

[dezwez]

i would take a look at the end shells cant think of anything else it could be as i said
i had this on a engine few years back and it would only turn so far
before sticking