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2003 Mondeo 2.0 Tdci 130 6Spd Flywheel


Jay30685
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Good evening guys, ive bought a 2003 Mondeo that requires a dual mass flywheel, it still drives but rattles.

my question is..... Is it safe to fit a solid flywheel/clutch replacement without any problems?

I will be doing all the work myself, with the help of my dad so no labour to pay, ive found a solid replacement flywheel/clutch kit for £148 delivered.

Thank-you

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Good evening guys, ive bought a 2003 Mondeo that requires a dual mass flywheel, it still drives but rattles.

my question is..... Is it safe to fit a solid flywheel/clutch replacement without any problems?

I will be doing all the work myself, with the help of my dad so no labour to pay, ive found a solid replacement flywheel/clutch kit for £148 delivered.

Thank-you

Hello and welcome to the forum,

There are many opinions on the internet and this forum but i believe that fitting a solid mass flywheel is not a great way to go. it can lead to gearbox or crankshaft failure - components which are not meant to take the vibration that the flywheel removes.

If it were me, i would be fitting a DMF again - for me the chances are i would have rid of the car long before it needed done again

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Ive ran a solid flywheel for a couple of years with no problems, it is smooth as well, my car is highly modified with a lot of power/ torque and i often drive it hard.

Before that i had a DMF, due to its age and the extra low-down torque of the tuned motor, it "broke up" and damaged the starter motor/ CSC and clutch

So ive had/ ran both - for me, i prefer the solid flywheel,

If you decide to go for a solid flywheel i recommend you get a clutch with a sprung plate,(to put the "give" back into the driveline the solid flywheel takes out) that all the components match correctly and the flywheel is dynamically balanced

The price seems very cheap - is it from a reputable source?

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Its on eBay, seller has over 12000 feedback. 40000 miles/4yr warranty. Ive heard a lot of people who have swapped to solid flywheel with no problems. But there are also s lot of people advise not to do it due to gearbox or crank

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Fair enough, i did hear the prices have come down scinse i did mine

Even though you are doing it yourself, the usual is to change the lot ( Flyweeel, both main parts of the clutch and the CSC) due to the high labor cost/s

I think i know the seller you mean, do they sell SMFs and DMFs as well?

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  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, I bought the kit above, excellent seller, £135.00 including courier. Delivered to my work. Got it done in the day. Old flywheel was wobbling allover, cant believe it stayed fixed in its state!

Found a couple other issues along the way, driveshaft oil seal was gone, so thats replaced, cv boot too. Also found out that its got no cat, its got a lovely bit of stainless from manifold down to front pipe.

Since doing the flywheel, ive had a couple small issues but think its almost sorted, a boost pipe split, and my egr is clogged up. Ive replaced boost pipe with one from wreckers and ive stuck a ball bearing in my vac pipe. Seems to be solved for now until I clean inlet system out and put a blank plate in egr.

Does anyone know about the turbos on these? My spindle moves in and out, what part has gone and can I replace it myself?

It still boosts up and shifts as if theres nothing wrong, but I want to remap it. But only when I trust it!

Thanks

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Hi great price on the flywheel! i was quoted £800 from frauds once!

When you say spindle do you mean play in the turbo shaft in the compressor wheel when you take the inlet hose (the one between airbox and turbo) off? - if so axial play (along the line of the shaft) is not such a problem as radial play ("up and down"etc) and its a plain bearing, with "oil" clearenses (there is supposed to be a very slight amount of play for a "film" of oil)

You can get a new or rufurb cartrige (compressor and turbine wheels with bearing) that you fit to your exhaust manifold and compressor housing

The VNT(variable nozzle turbo or variable vane) mech is in the manifold and tends to get coked up and malfunction/ sieze which can cause a knock-on effect to the actuator (yours is probably a vnt with pnumatic actuator - there are 3 different kinds, fixed vane, vnt with pnumatic, vnt with electronic actuator )

You could clean out your old vnt mech or pick up a secondhand one to use with a new/ refurb cartrige or pick up a complete S/H turbo assembly

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Thank you for the info, yes it is in/out on the shaft. What is vnt? My turbo/egr system is vacuum, ni sensor on turbo or egr. I work for a bearing company, can you just replace the bearing in the turbo if that's the problem?

Thanks

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Thank you for the info, yes it is in/out on the shaft. What is vnt? My turbo/egr system is vacuum, ni sensor on turbo or egr. I work for a bearing company, can you just replace the bearing in the turbo if that's the problem?

Thanks

VNT = variable nozzle turbo / variable vane turbo

vacuum = pnumatic - more reliable than the electronic ones, also means you have a Euro3 engine and can blank the EGR with no problem (solid plate)

I've never rebuilt a turbo but i think the wheels are dynamically balanced (they spin to 100,00+rpm) i think its a specialized job to replace the bearing / refurb the turbo, i dont know what would be involved/ how cost-effective it would be fixing it yourself/ i would need to find out more

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your local factors should do you a decent price on a DMF.I got my dmf,clutch kit,slave for £400.(dingbro)

dont put a smf in it mate. upto you though.

If you look hard enough there's guides on rebuilding turbos,but i wouldnt try it.for the price of a recon'd turbo. Ya can get em for £300 odd quid,with warranty etc

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ford-mondeo-jaguar-x-type-2-0-td-tdci-diesel-turbo-charger-unit-728680-130-hp-/290717959870

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