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Engine Sounding A Bit Rough


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#1 vinylpusher

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 07:08 AM

Hello

I purchased my Ford Focus 1.6 MK2 Zetec climate about 2 years ago from a Ford Dealer. All fine.

Over the last few months i have noticed the engine getting a bit noisy (Hard to describe but sounds quite ratteley and not very healthy, expecially in the mornings)

When im actually driving i dont notice it too much, but when the car is idle its starting to sound as if its a deisel.

Now i havent had the car serviced or anything since i brought (I know i know :( )

What could the cause of a louder engine be? Would have a full engine service resolve some of these issues at all?

Any help or more information please reply.

Many thanks

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#2 stef123

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 07:11 AM

I would certainly change the oil as soon as possible, using castrol magnatec 5w/30 or another high quality oil

#3 vinylpusher

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 08:28 AM

I would certainly change the oil as soon as possible, using castrol magnatec 5w/30 or another high quality oil


Should i use anything to maybe flush the engine? (Im not mechanically minded Sorry! im trying to learn though :))

Im guessing they would do all of this during an engine service?

Would it be hard to do an oil change myself to see if this makes any difference?

Thanks

#4 stef123

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 09:40 AM

Should i use anything to maybe flush the engine? (Im not mechanically minded Sorry! im trying to learn though :))

Im guessing they would do all of this during an engine service?

Would it be hard to do an oil change myself to see if this makes any difference?

Thanks


I wouldn't normally bother with an engine flush as its not necessarily a good thing, but in this case I probably would.

A flush won't be carried out during a routine service, you would need to ask for it and pay extra.

Yes changing the oil is very very easy. If you can change a wheel you can change the oil.

If you do intend to change the oil, there are a few guides online, but we would be happy to help you out and guide you through it.

#5 vinylpusher

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 10:33 AM

I wouldn't normally bother with an engine flush as its not necessarily a good thing, but in this case I probably would.

A flush won't be carried out during a routine service, you would need to ask for it and pay extra.

Yes changing the oil is very very easy. If you can change a wheel you can change the oil.

If you do intend to change the oil, there are a few guides online, but we would be happy to help you out and guide you through it.


Many thanks. I did one on my old Corsa once. Ill take a look online for guides

I don't have any ramps through. Will this be possible without any? Can i just use Jacks? one on both side?

Can you recommend which products are best to use ??

(Example the Flush product and also which oil to put back in to keep it the most smooth)

Halfords is nearest to me or Motorworld. Link to them would be good :)

Many thanks. Appreciate it.

#6 stef123

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 12:37 PM

The engine flush I use is this stuff (don't use it very often though)
http://www.halfords....55221&langId=-1

And your looking for castrol magnatec 5w/30 A1 (will have ford ford on the bottle) - that IMO is the best oil and I believe is also the recommended oil. Check your local asda if you have one, last time I was in mine they were selling it on offer
http://www.halfords....65581&langId=-1

#7 vinylpusher

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 12:51 PM

Thats great thankyou

So will i be ok using a Floor jack for one said to lift the car ??

Do i put the Flush in the oil and run the revs before draining the oil out?? or do i drain the oil, then put the flush through, then re-drain?

How do i go about replacing the oil filter and would this be necessary?

Thanks

#8 stef123

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 01:06 PM

Thats great thankyou

So will i be ok using a Floor jack for one said to lift the car ??

Do i put the Flush in the oil and run the revs before draining the oil out?? or do i drain the oil, then put the flush through, then re-drain?

How do i go about replacing the oil filter and would this be necessary?

Thanks


Sorry I missed that bit,
Yes, if I'm doing an oil change I just use a jack - you should use axle stands aswell though

One thing I always do that it doesn't say on the tin is check that I won't be overfilling the oil when I add the flush. So just add the flush to the oil, either run the car around for a short while or keep a fast idle for 15 mins then drop the oil. I would recommend leaving the car for a bit to let all the oil drip out. Also bear in mind the oil will be hot but the hotter the better as it will draw out more rubbish.
Remove the oil filter - don't do an oil change and leave the old one on. You might be able to unscrewit by hand, if not the likes of halfords will sell a tool.
Remember when refitting the new filter to apply some clean oil to the rubber o-ring. Only hand tighten the new filter, there is no need to tighten them up to crazy amounts like garages do. If its awkward to tighten by hand, do it as much as possible and turn another 90 degrees or so with the tool

One thing I always do aswell is use a clean rag to remove any oil from the sump or block as it does run all over the place.

Hope this helps a little


#9 vinylpusher

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 04:13 PM

Thats great thankyou, really helps.

Sorry you put "Remove the oil filter - don't do an oil change and leave the old one on"

So should i do the oil change first, put new oil in, then change the filter??

Or should i change the filter whilst the oil sump is drained?

Where is the oil filter located? will it stand out when i get under the car? is it near the sump?

Many thanks

#10 Nathan_M

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 04:37 PM

When changing oil a simple lesson is,
  • Take it out for a short run to warm it up a little
  • Jack it up or crawl under, and place the bowl or whatever you are using into position
  • Crack and undo the sump bolt
  • Leave it for 5-10 minutes or until it stops dribbling
  • Replace the sump bolt
  • Remove the old oil filter(cant remember the exact position)
  • Place new oil filter (rub a little oil on the rubber seal before hand) tighten by hand as much as possible then a little extra push (dont over tighten)
  • Fill up with oil as specified by the handbook (quantity)(not forgetting to make sure that you have put the sump bolt back)
  • Check dipstick ( just under the max line)
  • Start it up and either leave it for a few minutes or go on a small run
  • Check the level again and top up as required (peace of mind have a look at the filter to make sure its not become loose)
  • Done
If you go to a Ford Dealer or original parts re seller you could buy a Ford genuine kit that will include a new sump bolt filter and oil, otherwise just but the Oil, decent brands are always safest bet Castrol,Valvoline,Shell,Mobil etc. i think Ford now reccomend Castrol, but any brand will be alright so long as you get the correct grade.

Good Luck

#11 stef123

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 07:06 PM

Thats great thankyou, really helps.

Sorry you put "Remove the oil filter - don't do an oil change and leave the old one on"

So should i do the oil change first, put new oil in, then change the filter??

Or should i change the filter whilst the oil sump is drained?

Where is the oil filter located? will it stand out when i get under the car? is it near the sump?

Many thanks


Yes remove the filter whilst the oil is draining. Remember it will be full of hot oil

#12 vinylpusher

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Posted 22 February 2013 - 05:10 PM

Thanks for all the help

Is there anything else i should grab and replace whilst i'm doing this as a maintenance side?

Spark plugs maybe?

Should i grab any other fluids to run through the petrol or engine at all?

Thanks

#13 stef123

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Posted 22 February 2013 - 06:45 PM

Thanks for all the help

Is there anything else i should grab and replace whilst i'm doing this as a maintenance side?

Spark plugs maybe?

Should i grab any other fluids to run through the petrol or engine at all?

Thanks


if you wanted to give it a full service while you have all the toys out then you could change the plugs and the rest of the filters?

#14 vinylpusher

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Posted 22 February 2013 - 06:55 PM

Yeah think ill change the air filter. Would just a halfords one be ok?

I checked the service manual and i now have 65,000 miles it was serviced at 50,000.

Would the spark plugs need doing really? Ive read they last up to 60,000 miles before needing a change?.

Or should i change them for the bosch ones as i have heard good things. Or would this not make much of a difference. Trying to keep costs down if im honest. Just want a smoother engine lol

Thanks again

#15 stef123

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Posted 22 February 2013 - 07:01 PM

Yeah think ill change the air filter. Would just a halfords one be ok?

I checked the service manual and i now have 65,000 miles it was serviced at 50,000.

Would the spark plugs need doing really? Ive read they last up to 60,000 miles before needing a change?.

Or should i change them for the bosch ones as i have heard good things. Or would this not make much of a difference. Trying to keep costs down if im honest. Just want a smoother engine lol

Thanks again


yeah a halfords filter would be fine - if they stock them though (the way they work their parts is strange)

spark plugs should be changed every 30-40k. I tend to change them after about 25k but i check the gap at about half that. I have just changed the plugs on my Mrs ibiza, they were genuine parts and probably original as the car has 40k on the clock - no wonder the car didnt drive very well. the gap was twice as big as it should be!
so it might be worth while pulling them out for a look or just replacing them

I would go with genuine plugs to be honest, they are around £3 each at the dealer.

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